richscorvettes

While I was changing the engine oil on the 67 I noticed some seepage from the control valve and will be replacing the valve tomorrow. I have read the service manual on the proceedure but wanted to see if any of you that have done this have any suggestions on how to make the job easier(or less painful). Thanks for any suggestions.

Rich Lagasse

Veet 66

First question. are you rebuilding your old one or are you buying one already rebuilt. I have recently rebuilt one and ended up having one delivered already rebuilt. I purchased it from Vette Brakes.
This is the process I did.
1) remove the lines off of the control valve. total of 4.
2) removed the carter pin and loosen the nut holding it to the cross bar.
3) used a fork and hammer between the ball stud and cross bar.
4) once the ball was loose from the cross bar removed the nut completely off.
5) remove the bolt that holds the control valve and turn it counterclockwise off.
6) to reinstall reverse above.
things to remember.
1) do not connect the lines to the cylinder backwards. has been done.
2) do not over tighten the ball stud nut. It will strip.
3) do not over fill the pump. move steering back and forth befor starting engine.
Keep in mind that the original control valve had a 55lb. spring in it. Control valves being sold now have 40lb. springs. You can request a 55 lb. when you order it. The difference with the spring size is that with the 40 lb. spring it is easier to steer. I got a control valve that had a 40 lb. and it was too light for me so I had a 55lb. one installed. I wanted to feel the turns.
hope this helps.
:steering:


[Modified by Veet 66, 3:07 PM 5/12/2003]

richscorvettes

Jack,

Thanks for taking the time to recap each step. I will be using a new control valve to see if those last longer. I may rebuild the old one as a spare though.

I also had feedback reminding folks not to stick their hand throught the steering wheel when starting it up when filling the system and balancing the valve. Apparently it can move back and forth violently and I certainly don't need to have any more injuries when working on these things. :rolleyes:

Thanks again,

Rich Lagasse

Veet 66

Any time. That is what is great about the corvette forum. Some of us are first timers on some of the work.
The biggest reason you do not put your hands between the steering wheel to start the car is if you hook up the two lines from the cylinder backwards to the control valve (talk about violent) is an understatement. The steering wheel goes back and forth so fast it would make a mixer look slow.
Don't forget if you rebuild your old one it has to be adjusted on the car and without the control cylinder connected to the frame brace.
:cheers:

MikeM

In addition to the above:

Another reason for not sticking your hand through the steering wheel is the new or rebuilt control valve will not be "centered". In other words, if the valve is not centered, the steering wheel will drift or spin to one side or the other. There is a screw in the left side of the valve (it could be under a cap). It will only take a small amount of adjustment to cause the wheel not to drift to the left or right. Me? I would start the engine with the fluid level low and the wheel straight ahead. Add fluid until the reservoir is full. At this point, if the steering wheel hasn't done anything funny, I would "palm" the outer rim and move the wheel slowly from right lock back to left lock several times and then check the fluid again. Top off as required and then note if the wheel wants to drift one way or the other. If it doesn't you're okay as far as the valve adjustment goes. This way, you don't have to disconnect the cylinder from the frame bracket. As advised, BE CAREFUL and DO NOT stick your hand or arm through the steering wheel spokes until you know the valve is adjusted.

Mike :)

MassVette

The Corvette parts dealers around here told me to buy the GM rebuilt; he claimed that the new ones were made in Brazil, and frequently failed. I dunno if he's right. But I bought the remanufactured U.S. one. Works fine-
Good Luck, Rich.

magicv8

My experience with reman units is that the shops only replace the seals in a kit - about half of what's needed - and the unit starts to leak in a year or two - unless you have a TQ. Last time I rebuilt it myself with a full compliment of seals - the kit - O rings from a hydraulic cylinder shop, and the metal seal from GM. Three years - no leaks - even driving hard across the desert - which usually fries everything under the car. :mad


[Modified by magicv8, 8:28 AM 5/15/2003]

richscorvettes

Well, now you tell me! :D Actually, I've had mixed results and feedback even on rebuilt units and decided to go with a new one this time. We installed it and it was junk. After going through all the steps we ran the car for about three minutes and the valve got so hot you couldn't touch it nor would it even turn the wheels. No leaks though.:rolleyes: So, I've decided to rebuild the old valve. At least I know it worked fine even if it leaked. Hopefully the rebuild kit will cure that.

Thanks everyone for the feedback and suggestions.

Rich Lagasse

richscorvettes

Well, the conclusion of this saga ended well. We rebuilt the valve, reinstalled and adjusted the balance. It works well and there are no leaks. If I ever do this again (which seems very likely given the nature of these things) I will just rebuild it again as there seems to be an awful lot of quality issues with some rebuilt or even new units. Live and learn! :yesnod:

Rich Lagasse

magicv8

:iagree: I also ended up rebuilding my own after 2 rebuilts failed.