Retrofit roller cam....thinking about it, but I have some questions.
04-08-2012, 05:24 PM
#21
Pro
I've done both type pushrods, one with each of the engines I put together - the roller tipped is a really nice piece of hardware, and if you have the cash, go for it - but really not at all necessary. Lots of people run the bronze tipped rod with no issue. I think it's not only cheaper, it's a simpler setup to go with the bronze tipped pushrod, and just as effective.
04-08-2012, 05:34 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
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I've done both type pushrods, one with each of the engines I put together - the roller tipped is a really nice piece of hardware, and if you have the cash, go for it - but really not at all necessary. Lots of people run the bronze tipped rod with no issue. I think it's not only cheaper, it's a simpler setup to go with the bronze tipped pushrod, and just as effective.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
04-08-2012, 05:36 PM
#23
Le Mans Master
Did a Crane retro roller refit back in 2004. Used the Cloyes cover with no problems. Used the GM aluminum water pump and just replaced the bolts on the back of the water pump with button heads and had no problems.
Now replacing my 350 with a small block so if you interested in cover, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, pushrods, fuel pushrod, etc, just let me know. Cam is a Crane roller. I will have to search for the spec card.
Found the card. Crane 119821. Advertised duration is 276/284. 214/222@.050 lift, .488/.509 total lift with 1.5 rockers ( I have comp 1.52 roller).
I even have the recommended springs installed on my Edelbrock RPM heads. can sell heads complete.
Now replacing my 350 with a small block so if you interested in cover, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, pushrods, fuel pushrod, etc, just let me know. Cam is a Crane roller. I will have to search for the spec card.
Found the card. Crane 119821. Advertised duration is 276/284. 214/222@.050 lift, .488/.509 total lift with 1.5 rockers ( I have comp 1.52 roller).
I even have the recommended springs installed on my Edelbrock RPM heads. can sell heads complete.
Last edited by SteveG75; 04-08-2012 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Found cams specs.
04-08-2012, 06:21 PM
#24
Race Director
I have my Comp Cams roller tipped fuel pushrod out for inspection as we speak and it looks brand new and there is no brinnelling of the needle bearings.
As far as the Cloyes timing cove goes I wouldn't use another one. Way to hard to setup correctly. Sounds simple but when you get down to trying to get the cam play you want it ends up taking way longer than expected.
Think about it, you have to set the roller bearing and if not what you wanted you have to take it off set it again, take it off set it again I could go on for hours, about the time it takes to get the exact cam endplay you want. If you want the best take a look at the pic below.
As far as the Cloyes timing cove goes I wouldn't use another one. Way to hard to setup correctly. Sounds simple but when you get down to trying to get the cam play you want it ends up taking way longer than expected.
Think about it, you have to set the roller bearing and if not what you wanted you have to take it off set it again, take it off set it again I could go on for hours, about the time it takes to get the exact cam endplay you want. If you want the best take a look at the pic below.
04-08-2012, 06:47 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
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Did a Crane retro roller refit back in 2004. Used the Cloyes cover with no problems. Used the GM aluminum water pump and just replaced the bolts on the back of the water pump with button heads and had no problems.
Now replacing my 350 with a small block so if you interested in cover, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, pushrods, fuel pushrod, etc, just let me know. Cam is a Crane roller. I will have to search for the spec card.
Found the card. Crane 119821. Advertised duration is 276/284. 214/222@.050 lift, .488/.509 total lift with 1.5 rockers ( I have comp 1.52 roller).
I even have the recommended springs installed on my Edelbrock RPM heads. can sell heads complete.
Now replacing my 350 with a small block so if you interested in cover, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, pushrods, fuel pushrod, etc, just let me know. Cam is a Crane roller. I will have to search for the spec card.
Found the card. Crane 119821. Advertised duration is 276/284. 214/222@.050 lift, .488/.509 total lift with 1.5 rockers ( I have comp 1.52 roller).
I even have the recommended springs installed on my Edelbrock RPM heads. can sell heads complete.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
04-08-2012, 07:14 PM
#26
Race Director
As far as the Cloyes timing cove goes I wouldn't use another one. Way to hard to setup correctly. Sounds simple but when you get down to trying to get the cam play you want it ends up taking way longer than expected.
Think about it, you have to set the roller bearing and if not what you wanted you have to take it off set it again, take it off set it again I could go on for hours, about the time it takes to get the exact cam endplay you want.
Think about it, you have to set the roller bearing and if not what you wanted you have to take it off set it again, take it off set it again I could go on for hours, about the time it takes to get the exact cam endplay you want.
Just turn the allen bolt until it just touches the cam and that's it.
04-08-2012, 07:23 PM
#27
Pro
So not to be nosy - what cam are you thinking of? I caught that you are going with vortec heads, just curious what the plan was?
FYI - same cloyes cover I used by the way...
FYI - same cloyes cover I used by the way...
04-08-2012, 08:44 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
using howards setup on my 79 350, cam, lifters, springs, pushrods. canton racing products reinforced timing chain cover, no fit issues, roller thrust button, lunati timing chain w/ roller thrust washer machined into gear. using oem fuel pump pushrod, and msd hei streetfire distributor. summit roller rockers on dart iron eagle heads.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/H...o/CL110245-12/
http://www.competitionproducts.com/H...o/CL110245-12/
04-08-2012, 10:35 PM
#29
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St. Jude Donor '05
Set my endplay about .007-/008
Try to get your cam on a billet core the metals in too many cast cores are garbage yes even rollers. Got a low mile XFI cam with erided lobes sitting here .
Avoid the billet dist gear so you dont need to run bronz in there.
Bronze/roller tip all work well..Howards has an impregnated carbon composite which is neat. .97 oz
thought some water pumps have threaded boss underneath for the timing cover?
Try to get your cam on a billet core the metals in too many cast cores are garbage yes even rollers. Got a low mile XFI cam with erided lobes sitting here .
Avoid the billet dist gear so you dont need to run bronz in there.
Bronze/roller tip all work well..Howards has an impregnated carbon composite which is neat. .97 oz
thought some water pumps have threaded boss underneath for the timing cover?
04-08-2012, 11:15 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL08-408-8/
but I am not using vortec heads, the plan for now is Dart SHP heads.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
04-09-2012, 06:34 AM
#31
Pro
That is actually the same cam I used with my vortec headed engine (heads were machined to allow higher lift than stock) - It was actually a really nice driver. It was just me being greedy for more power, but I ended up wanting a little more grunt.
I don't know which Dart heads, but depending on the versions you use, I suspect they may make plenty of power anyway, and the mild cam should give you nice street drivability.
This is just a thought, Dart heads can make a lot of power, you might not realize thier full potential with that cam. If it were me, based on my learning, I might consider something with longer duration. Comp has some reasonably decent Desktop Dyno software for modeling different cam/head combinations (Not CamQuest, I think it's very "optimistic"). That, along with others on here, helped me with many of my 383 choices.
Plus we obviously cannot discount the experience of the folks on this forum - I've soaked up more knowledge just reading/asking questions on here than I could have on my own...
I don't know which Dart heads, but depending on the versions you use, I suspect they may make plenty of power anyway, and the mild cam should give you nice street drivability.
This is just a thought, Dart heads can make a lot of power, you might not realize thier full potential with that cam. If it were me, based on my learning, I might consider something with longer duration. Comp has some reasonably decent Desktop Dyno software for modeling different cam/head combinations (Not CamQuest, I think it's very "optimistic"). That, along with others on here, helped me with many of my 383 choices.
Plus we obviously cannot discount the experience of the folks on this forum - I've soaked up more knowledge just reading/asking questions on here than I could have on my own...
Last edited by cooper9811; 04-09-2012 at 06:37 AM.
04-09-2012, 06:58 AM
#32
Drifting
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It might have been mentioned already but if not then dont forget the mods that need to be done when going to a torrington roller
bearing chain set for your roller cam to keep the bearing oiled.
bearing chain set for your roller cam to keep the bearing oiled.
04-09-2012, 09:40 AM
#33
Le Mans Master
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That is actually the same cam I used with my vortec headed engine (heads were machined to allow higher lift than stock) - It was actually a really nice driver. It was just me being greedy for more power, but I ended up wanting a little more grunt.
I don't know which Dart heads, but depending on the versions you use, I suspect they may make plenty of power anyway, and the mild cam should give you nice street drivability.
This is just a thought, Dart heads can make a lot of power, you might not realize thier full potential with that cam. If it were me, based on my learning, I might consider something with longer duration. Comp has some reasonably decent Desktop Dyno software for modeling different cam/head combinations (Not CamQuest, I think it's very "optimistic"). That, along with others on here, helped me with many of my 383 choices.
Plus we obviously cannot discount the experience of the folks on this forum - I've soaked up more knowledge just reading/asking questions on here than I could have on my own...
I don't know which Dart heads, but depending on the versions you use, I suspect they may make plenty of power anyway, and the mild cam should give you nice street drivability.
This is just a thought, Dart heads can make a lot of power, you might not realize thier full potential with that cam. If it were me, based on my learning, I might consider something with longer duration. Comp has some reasonably decent Desktop Dyno software for modeling different cam/head combinations (Not CamQuest, I think it's very "optimistic"). That, along with others on here, helped me with many of my 383 choices.
Plus we obviously cannot discount the experience of the folks on this forum - I've soaked up more knowledge just reading/asking questions on here than I could have on my own...
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
04-09-2012, 09:43 AM
#34
Le Mans Master
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Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
04-09-2012, 09:47 AM
#35
Team Owner
If you are asking me, I'm thinking about using this cam:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL08-408-8/
but I am not using vortec heads, the plan for now is Dart SHP heads.
Scott
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL08-408-8/
but I am not using vortec heads, the plan for now is Dart SHP heads.
Scott
The very mild L-82 cam was 222/222
04-09-2012, 10:06 AM
#36
Drifting
I have a ZZ4 motor in my 80 vette right now but want to build a stronger performing track day motor.
I have the spare L82 motor with 90K miles on it and have considered building it with a roller retrofit kit. I can reuse the L82 crank and rods.
But then I think find a later roller block but most don't have forged internals but I could reuse my ZZ4 flywheel and roadrace oil pan.
I have the spare L82 motor with 90K miles on it and have considered building it with a roller retrofit kit. I can reuse the L82 crank and rods.
But then I think find a later roller block but most don't have forged internals but I could reuse my ZZ4 flywheel and roadrace oil pan.
04-09-2012, 10:40 AM
#37
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St. Jude Donor '05
Just turn the allen bolt until it just touches the cam and that's it.
04-09-2012, 10:41 AM
#38
Race Director
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL113215-10/
Should work well with your new compression, 3.08 gearing, convertor and heads. Those heads will like some duration and lift. I assume your needing a retro toller. Your original link is a roller block cam and lifters. Lift and duration is figured with 1.6 rockers.
04-09-2012, 10:59 AM
#39
Race Director
04-09-2012, 11:48 AM
#40
Yes, pretty conservative. If you go with the 72 CC heads and a 1094 gasket you can go higher duration, I would look at something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL113215-10/
Should work well with your new compression, 3.08 gearing, convertor and heads. Those heads will like some duration and lift. I assume your needing a retro toller. Your original link is a roller block cam and lifters. Lift and duration is figured with 1.6 rockers.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL113215-10/
Should work well with your new compression, 3.08 gearing, convertor and heads. Those heads will like some duration and lift. I assume your needing a retro toller. Your original link is a roller block cam and lifters. Lift and duration is figured with 1.6 rockers.