TurboStitchCW

I'm having trouble figuring out how exactly to install the horn button without the upper horn contact slipping off of the spring loaded contact. The order I put them on is: spacer, locking ring, shim, upper contact. As far as I understand, I have everything. I feel like I'm missing a part, but I've looked through your papers and the AIM, but to me it looks like I have everything.

Am i missing something?

Here's where I am as of 5 minutes ago:





Is the contact supposed to be like this, or have I done it wrong?


When I try to snap the horn button on, the contacts slip away from each other and it springs out of the hole as I shout expletives.

If you need anymore pics, please let me know

Jim Shea

Can't you bend the "leg" on the upper horn contact such that it will be more square to the horn plunger? Or am I missing something?

Even with the "leg" off to the side, as long as it is in constant contact with the plunger the horn should work anyway. Not a very secure situation but it still should work.
Jim

TurboStitchCW

Do I need to tighten the upper contact all the way? The way I understand it is that you left some slack and when you push the horn button, it pushed the plunger making the horn sound. Is that the way it works?

If it can be off to the side and still work, I'm just going to do that...save some headache.

Jim Shea

No, that is not how it works. The leg is in constant contact with the plunger and neither moves once the upper horn contact is fastened in place.

The upper horn contact consists of two metal stampings held apart with three non-conducting plastic rivets. The horn cap snaps into the one stamping. When you depress the horn cap it deflects the stamping so that it contacts the other part completing the ground path to the steering shaft.

Jim

Shark Racer

Jim -could this be a case of the horn contact pin (nail?) being too long? (assuming OP has a new horn kit)

(see bottom of http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1969-1982.html )

Jim Shea

A lot of kits supply a pin (aka eyelet, plunger, nail, etc) that is too long. You are expected to cut it down to the correct length. How you are supposed to know what the correct length is, you will have to cut and try it.

The leg should just depress the eyelet against the spring so that there is always electrical continuity.

Jim

Shark Racer

The reason that I brought it up is I had the exact same problem towards the end, just used the "OEM" pin.

TurboStitchCW

Ah! I think that may be the problem. I'll do that today and let you know what the result is. Thanks for the help so far.

TurboStitchCW

Okay, so I trimmed the pin and everything was fine....I could hear the relay working when I pushed the button, but the horns did not blow. I have them plugged in and mounted, but nothing was happening. Is there a way to test the horns to make sure they work? If I find that they don't work, I will have to order new horns and have to wait....again.

I am SO ready to get the horn and e-brake problems behind me!

Jim Shea

Unplug the horns and bring a jumper wire over to the plug. Try and see if they blow with the jumper. Check to see if the horns are grounded properly.

You may need to start at the beginning and test the whole horn circuit (i.e. the steering column, vehicle wiring, relay, and horns themselves.)
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=909

Jim

Shark Racer

If you can hear the relay working, there must be something between the relay and the wiring.

Original horns are case grounded with a positive post. You can clamp a battery charger positive clamp onto the post and tap it with the negative clamp to test it. (or do the same with wires and a battery)