buba6

heeheh, she is so right all the best to her! Pozdrowienia z Polski!

Mark G

I studied in Krakow for a year. Went back a couple times since. Been around Poland. One time as a student, I walked down the street where the US Consolate is in Krakow and there was a large mid-70's red Cadillac convertible parked right in front and a large guy who was about 6' 5" tall with a cowboy hat standing next to it talking to someone (looked like Big Enos Burdette from Smokey and the Bandit) in a blue suit. Somehow I seem to remember a Texas plate on it. It was the most unusual spectacle I'd seen in a long time. The car was twice the size of anything I'd seen in several months. Turns out he was Polish that made some $$ in the US and returned back to live the good life in the mother country. This was back during the last of the Iron Curtain days.

Mark G

buba6

yep. american muscle cars are not so popular in Poland, probably my Vetta is going to be the only vintage one. There are a couple of new ones.

I just love the car and a want to have my as a perfect restoration example.

gdm78vette

It appears to be the timer-relay for the rear window defogger. It has circuitry in it that shuts the defogger off after it has been on for a while. Wire colours going into it should be black, orange/black, light blue and purple.

Oh, and great pictures! I have a '78 and will at some point need to do a lot of the work you are tackling now.

buba6

got some more, probably stupid, questions

1. what is this?





2. is this a stock carb?

Snoopysvet

first pick is a vapor canister, or charcoal canister. It pupose is to prevent gas fumes from venting to the atmosphere. If you remove it make sure you get a vented gas cap.

The carburetor you have is not the original.

69VetteFla

Hey bud. Hope things are coming along. My polish wife keeps asking how your car is coming along. Hope you haven't lost your motivation.

wgarneau

My wife is from Radom, and we (err me) recently got a 78 Vette ourselves. Very cool! We were just in Poland a little over a month ago. We spent time in Krakow and Warsaw as well as Radom. We're both very interested in seeing how your project turns out!

Also - the world's biggest vintage Corvette supplier is right around the corner from us. If you have any problems finding parts, shoot me a PM. I can see if he has it. So fat he's had everything I've asked about - including rebuilt frames...

buba6

Thanks guys for the support!

The work is in progress, a lot of time on reading and learning how to do stuff.

Recently managed to get the engine out and clean the fram, today it cam back from sand blating. It will need a lot of welding... So far we dissasambled the motor, it turned out it is freashly rebuild, with a lot of new parts, like water pump, etc. so just doing some cosmetic work like painting the block red and polishing parts. Now I am on a mission to order parts from US, so can put the frame back together in couple of weeks.

Here are some photos:

buba6

Got one more question, there is a cross memeber that holds the diff, it is mounted to the frame through a rubber bushing, which one is it, I am looking at Wilcox and Corvette Central and I am not sure if I pick the right one.

dembo

I think this is the one you're looking for? (sold as 1, you need 2)
crossmember bushing.
Also get these aluminium support plates to distribute the load
reinforcement kit
Keep up the good work!
Regards,
Nick

buba6

Nick, you are right, those are the ones.

Other question, there are two tubes that goe from transmision to the radiator, what are those and what would be the best pick to replace them?

dembo

On the right hand side? I guess it are the transmission cooling lines which circulate the oil from the transmission to the core in the radiator on the right hand side. I didn't immediatly found them on the Willcox side so this link is from CC. (assuming you still have the original Turbo Hydramatic 350?)
transmission cooling lines
Nick

Mike Ward

It's highly unlikely that your diff cross member bushings need replacement. They usually outlast the rest of the car, don't worry about a little bit of surface cracking. The front snubber bushing most likely will need attention though.

I will also disagree with the use of the two circular plates recommended in another post. They are pure 'boy racer' and are of no use even in very hard street driving. I had them on mine for several years and saw no evidence of them ever having supported any load when removed.

Also, I note that there is no rear spring on your car, only air shocks. Never seen that before

buba6

No need to worry Mike, when the picture was taken, it was already out

My crossmember bushing are a mess, they almost do not exist I will buy new ones.

Other thing that almost do not exist was the parking brake, the side on the picture was the better one

dembo

I stand corrected ... Should have wrote 'you might consider ...'
Nick

buba6

ok, so the frame is back from sand blasting and I have to say it has got its issues But a good welder as my friend Andrew and soem steal plates will do the job!

KevinG

Very best of luck in completing your restoration!

Danish Shark

Make sure to check the dimensions of the frame to make sure it is straight. Otherwise you may run into allignment problems once you get the body back on.

buba6

Yesterday spend some time in my shop, managed to worked on the stering elements. Rebuild and painted power stearing valve, not sure if put together correctly, but will see rest of the elements were cleaned and painted. Painted the engine red and diferencial box.