C1 rear crossmember replacement
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
C1 rear crossmember replacement
Now that I have the front suspension taken care of, I turned my efforts to the rear suspension this weekend. I have to replace the rear crossmember due to rot. The original owner must have been getting ready for this as a new (circa 1985) GM crossmember came with the car.
Looking for advise on removal and reinstall. I don't think I will have the capabilities to reinstall with rivets, so grade 8 bolts are in order.
Is it as easy as drill out the old rivets, cut through the welds, drop old part and reverse procedure for the new one?
Feedback from those who have been there, done that, is appreciated.
Tom
Looking for advise on removal and reinstall. I don't think I will have the capabilities to reinstall with rivets, so grade 8 bolts are in order.
Is it as easy as drill out the old rivets, cut through the welds, drop old part and reverse procedure for the new one?
Feedback from those who have been there, done that, is appreciated.
Tom
#2
Instructor
c-1 crossmember replacement
thoyer--
yep. pretty much..just takes time...
1st.block front wheels, and--
put jack stands under the 'frame' rails about 5-8 " from the ends.
2 nd--cut the end bolts on both sides. drill /grind off-/ punch out the rivits ..
3rd- remove the shackles on the rear of the springs
4th--grind the welds off.both sides.. -keep a spray bottle of water handy and be sure to use it ..also a fire extinguisher -just in case.( i did'nt need to use it however)
5th-- bolt the new C/M up -gr8 bolts, and the inside the wheel well end long bolts.(that go thru and into the wheel-wells).
6th -hook the shackles back up..
7th-- double check that the car has'nt moved/shifted any-for the alignment--(i marked and taped a few visual points on the car rails and floor for eye sight measurments )..
8th-- get the C/M welded on to the frame -both sided of the c/m to frame....( i had a friend s garage weld mine.. )
you're done.
good luck..
john
yep. pretty much..just takes time...
1st.block front wheels, and--
put jack stands under the 'frame' rails about 5-8 " from the ends.
2 nd--cut the end bolts on both sides. drill /grind off-/ punch out the rivits ..
3rd- remove the shackles on the rear of the springs
4th--grind the welds off.both sides.. -keep a spray bottle of water handy and be sure to use it ..also a fire extinguisher -just in case.( i did'nt need to use it however)
5th-- bolt the new C/M up -gr8 bolts, and the inside the wheel well end long bolts.(that go thru and into the wheel-wells).
6th -hook the shackles back up..
7th-- double check that the car has'nt moved/shifted any-for the alignment--(i marked and taped a few visual points on the car rails and floor for eye sight measurments )..
8th-- get the C/M welded on to the frame -both sided of the c/m to frame....( i had a friend s garage weld mine.. )
you're done.
good luck..
john
Last edited by john5801; 04-04-2011 at 12:18 PM. Reason: word
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
thoyer--
yep. pretty much..just takes time...
1st.block front wheels, and--
put jack stands under the 'frame' rails about 5-8 " from the ends.
2 nd--cut the end bolts on both sides. drill /grind off-/ punch out the rivits ..
3rd- remove the shackles on the rear of the springs
4th--grind the welds off.both sides.. -keep a spray bottle of water handy and be sure to use it ..also a fire extinguisher -just in case.( i did'nt need to use it however)
5th-- bolt the new C/M up -gr8 bolts, and the inside the wheel well end long bolts.(that go thru and into the wheel-wells).
6th -hook the shackles back up..
7th-- double check that the car has'nt moved/shifted any-for the alignment--(i marked and taped a few visual points on the car rails and floor for eye sight measurments )..
8th-- get the C/M welded on to the frame -both sided of the c/m to frame....( i had a friend s garage weld mine.. )
you're done.
good luck..
john
yep. pretty much..just takes time...
1st.block front wheels, and--
put jack stands under the 'frame' rails about 5-8 " from the ends.
2 nd--cut the end bolts on both sides. drill /grind off-/ punch out the rivits ..
3rd- remove the shackles on the rear of the springs
4th--grind the welds off.both sides.. -keep a spray bottle of water handy and be sure to use it ..also a fire extinguisher -just in case.( i did'nt need to use it however)
5th-- bolt the new C/M up -gr8 bolts, and the inside the wheel well end long bolts.(that go thru and into the wheel-wells).
6th -hook the shackles back up..
7th-- double check that the car has'nt moved/shifted any-for the alignment--(i marked and taped a few visual points on the car rails and floor for eye sight measurments )..
8th-- get the C/M welded on to the frame -both sided of the c/m to frame....( i had a friend s garage weld mine.. )
you're done.
good luck..
john
I thought it looked pretty straight forward. I plan to dig in this weekend.
Pictures to follow...........
Tom
#4
Safety Car
Tom,
As John said above, it's pretty straight forward, UNLESS......you have rust in the frame rails. Look into the back of the frame rails, and make sure that the frame is still there. Most of the time, the reason that the crossmember is replaced, is because it is rusted. Because of the way that the crossmember is attached, water is held between the frame and the crossmember, causing the frame rails to rust away. You need to make sure that you have something to run your bolts through. It's not a big deal the fix the frame, but some fabrication and welding is involved. I just didn't want to see you pull that thing off, and then find out that you had a more involved repair. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
As John said above, it's pretty straight forward, UNLESS......you have rust in the frame rails. Look into the back of the frame rails, and make sure that the frame is still there. Most of the time, the reason that the crossmember is replaced, is because it is rusted. Because of the way that the crossmember is attached, water is held between the frame and the crossmember, causing the frame rails to rust away. You need to make sure that you have something to run your bolts through. It's not a big deal the fix the frame, but some fabrication and welding is involved. I just didn't want to see you pull that thing off, and then find out that you had a more involved repair. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
#5
Instructor
good heads up mike
61 mike..
good heads up and follow up.. i forgot to mention.
btw--i usually hit the c/m and corners-- and frame --all of --it--with a ballpean hammer every year to ensure no problem as well.
(i also have a pizza and ice tea while working on..)
john
good heads up and follow up.. i forgot to mention.
btw--i usually hit the c/m and corners-- and frame --all of --it--with a ballpean hammer every year to ensure no problem as well.
(i also have a pizza and ice tea while working on..)
john
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Tom,
As John said above, it's pretty straight forward, UNLESS......you have rust in the frame rails. Look into the back of the frame rails, and make sure that the frame is still there. Most of the time, the reason that the crossmember is replaced, is because it is rusted. Because of the way that the crossmember is attached, water is held between the frame and the crossmember, causing the frame rails to rust away. You need to make sure that you have something to run your bolts through. It's not a big deal the fix the frame, but some fabrication and welding is involved. I just didn't want to see you pull that thing off, and then find out that you had a more involved repair. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
As John said above, it's pretty straight forward, UNLESS......you have rust in the frame rails. Look into the back of the frame rails, and make sure that the frame is still there. Most of the time, the reason that the crossmember is replaced, is because it is rusted. Because of the way that the crossmember is attached, water is held between the frame and the crossmember, causing the frame rails to rust away. You need to make sure that you have something to run your bolts through. It's not a big deal the fix the frame, but some fabrication and welding is involved. I just didn't want to see you pull that thing off, and then find out that you had a more involved repair. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
This is what I'm dealing with. Only on the right side. Left side is solid. From what I could tell, the frame looks solid. We'll find out........
I just came in from soaking all of the bolts with PB Blaster. It'll be a nightly ritual this week.
Tom