StingrayLust

I'm currently in the process of tearing out my rear storage compartment. I found the the main frame is broken on both the outer edges by the first rivet. So I need a new main frame, but I've never done rivets before. Pop rivets I've done, but not the ones that look like these Rear Storage Door Hinge Rivet Set.

Has anyone done their own rivets on these rear doors? What tools do I need to accomplish this?

I'm also considering just buying the completed assembly as my fiber boards swelled everywhere around where the screws go in the side.

avner

Look at this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-question.html

Avner

U17

From the "Avery Tools" website ... #4:HELPFUL RIVETING TIPS When riveting with a universal rivet set you may experience marks on the head of the rivet from time to time. An old riveting trick is to put one or two pieces of masking tape on the end of the set (sticky side into the cupping) and this will usually help cushion and protect the rivet head. Note the tape will have to be replaced every 4th or 5th rivet as the tape wears out. Also, a piece of masking tape put on the face of a flush rivet set will keep the set from leaving black marks on the surface of the work. This tape will have to be replaced periodically when it wears through.



#5:BUCKING BAR TIPS Bucking bars come in many shapes and sizes. Generally the heavier the bar, the better the bar works for upsetting the shop head side of the rivet. Also, the larger the working face size; the less chance you will slip off the face and damage the work or rivet. Most bucking bars have two surfaces polished, and the rest of the bar will be a rough cast finish. You can get extra versatility out of a bar if you belt sand and polish some of the other cast surfaces -- usually a side, edge, or opposite end. Use a belt sander first, and then a Scotchbrite wheel to finish. In a pinch, you can use any steel object as a bucking bar -- look around your shop & tool box and you will usually find a tool or part that will work as a bucking bar (does not need to be heat treated if just used for a few rivets).

corvetteload

If you have an air hammer (chisels, etc) there is an attachment I got for mine that looks like a flat circular anvil. I put a block of steel on the head side and hit the stem side with this, really did the job. I think I got it at NAPA. Here, on the right, close to that design
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Ai...s/GRYCS807.htm

70BBvert

Hard to tell from the picture, are they solid rivets or semi tubular rivets? Different tools for each

For solid rivets you can get a variety of tools at an aircraft tool supply shop like http://www.aircraft-tool.com I bought a few like these http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/de...D=470-10-1%2f8

For semi tubular rivets I bought a tool from Jay Cee sales

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet62.htm

Jim

Alan 71

Hi,
The rivets that fasten the door hinges to the door frame are unusual.
They're not a pop-rivet, nor are they the flat headed, soft aluminium rivet used many places on the under-body.
It has a small, flat, round, well formed head on EACH side. This is so the door frame can be screwed tight against the fiberglass under body.
So what ever fastener you use needs to be very flat on the back side so it doesn't interfere with the underbody when you remount the frame.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan