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Installing new tubular rivets in the wiper door mechanism and convertible top frame.

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Old 12-05-2010, 12:19 PM
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mysixtynine
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Default Installing new tubular rivets in the wiper door mechanism and convertible top frame.

Two quick questions.

1. For those of you that have replaced the rivets in your wiper door mechanism, what did you use to hold the head of the rivet in place while you curled over the tubular end of the rivet. I have the tubular rivet set for 3/16" rivets but wonder if I need to get the cupped rivet die to hold the head of the rivet while I curl the tubular section over.

2. The tubular rivet die I have can be used in an air hammer. Did you guys use an air hammer or did you just use a regular hammer to curl over the tubular portion.

I see I can use a rivet squeezer and dies to to this but don't see the point in buying that setup for a one time use.

Any words of experience would be appreciated. I am also going to rebuild my convertible top frame rivets but with the 1/4" tubular rivet set.
Old 12-05-2010, 12:36 PM
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wombvette
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It always amazes me as to the lengths some will go to restore these cars. I have worked on these things for 40 years, and have seldom run into needing to re rivet either of these things. They just don't see that much use to wear out. I just clean them up and oil them.
Old 12-05-2010, 02:35 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi msn,
Since the tubular rivets have a pretty simply shaped head, I'd think even a flat buck would allow you to set them without distorting the head very much.
Regards,
Alan
Old 12-05-2010, 03:07 PM
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mysixtynine
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Originally Posted by wombvette
It always amazes me as to the lengths some will go to restore these cars. I have worked on these things for 40 years, and have seldom run into needing to re rivet either of these things. They just don't see that much use to wear out. I just clean them up and oil them.
This isn't about restoring something as an exercise. My linkage is not from my car. Someone had a 73 nose on the car and a long hood. The linkage I have has some pretty badly corroded rivet heads and some of the bushings are cracked and crumbling.

I might as well fix it now so I don't have to pull it apart again or have it fail and break or scratch something.

Last edited by mysixtynine; 12-05-2010 at 06:15 PM.
Old 12-05-2010, 03:09 PM
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mysixtynine
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi msn,
Since the tubular rivets have a pretty simply shaped head, I'd think even a flat buck would allow you to set them without distorting the head very much.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan. I was simply concerned that the oval shape of the head on the wiper linkage rivets maybe an issue as its thinner at the edges. Seems if I am just careful I wont misshapen the heads.
Old 07-25-2011, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
It always amazes me as to the lengths some will go to restore these cars. I have worked on these things for 40 years, and have seldom run into needing to re rivet either of these things. They just don't see that much use to wear out. I just clean them up and oil them.
There are many reasons why someone would need this information when restoring "these cars". If it were just use and wear, we may never need to restore some parts, but I bought a 69 and a 72 both with a later model hoods and want to go back to original wiper set up. I am in the process of buying some used linkages and if they need restoring, then this information would help me as well. Also, I have a 70 model that had a broken hinge - the cast aluminum end was braised very well, but the process melted the plastic spacer, it works, but I would rather it have the rivet and plastic spacer replaced.
If anyone can help, I would like to know if they make a crimper or spreader tool for these rivets?
Old 07-25-2011, 02:15 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi jh,
There is a nice rivet tool available for setting tubular and semi-tubular rivets made from steel, aluminium and brass.
I don't, however, know the price.
Try: Man Machine Interface, Inc. 440-871-6496
After you're finished it could probably go to someone else and you'd recoup some of the cost.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Old 07-26-2011, 10:54 AM
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Alan, I am going to wait until I get the 2 before I take the 70 out so that I can judge the repair on the 70. It may be just an adjustment when they put it in after the repair, but the door sits a little high. It isn't very noticeable to most people, but, I know it is off a little. I am thinking I will probably replace the hinge once I get it out.
I looked into it and Corvette Central has a tool about 33.00, but it is not a crimper type, it's the standard chisel type that you have to hammer - which could result in damage if hit wrong. I just thought a crimper/vise style would be safer. I may get some heavy duty vise grips and the tool and make one. That maybe going to extreme, but, being semi retired, I have a little time to play around with this idea. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Old 07-26-2011, 01:07 PM
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These guys have rivet sets available for several different size & type rivets. http://www.rivetsinstock.com/index.html I bought a few different sizes from them. The .401 shank rivet sets will fit a standard air chisel, for soft aluminum I reduce air pressure to 25 - 30 psi

Jim
Old 07-26-2011, 02:26 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi jh,
I WILL be interested to see what you come up with.
The tool I mentioned does look very nice, (and VERY different than the normal soft aluminium rivet set), but may be costly.
There are a multitude of adjustments and shim locations needed to get that door to sit JUST right; but it looks so cool when it sits and opens correctly.
Regards,
Alan

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