MCSSLT1

Stop if it sounds expensive

clarkakirby

The problem is not with the number of indoor parking spots but with the standard-width (8') garage doors. I have the same standard-size garage doors in both my two-car garages. No problem for my 2010 Grand Sport, but I do not back it into the garage. My wife's '05 GMC Sierra pickup will not fit into these doors without folding the mirrors in, then you can't use them to back out! She parks it outside, to save the headaches.

You can special-order custom-width (wider) garage doors, but be prepared for the upcharge. Also, then you will have to pay to have the new, wider garage doors installed. Or, do it yourself, if you have the skills.

You could pick up an extra inch or so on both sides by having a carpenter retrim your existing garage opening(s) with thinner stock. If your garage door openings have weatherseals tacked to the wooden trim, removing this vinyl weathersealing can give you extra room (but with the loss of door sealing). -Clark

GEOVETTE

I had problems backing in my 5th wheel trailer in a metal shop and keeping it centered so I could open the slideouts. What I did was paint two lines on the floor so when backing I could see where the tires should be. If you must back in just paint lines on the garage floor where the tires should go and lower the mirrrors.

C6ToGo

Hard to tell by your pic how much brick is above your garage doors. That usually has to be redone when you do a garage door conversion. They do make a 17 ft door for retros where you remove the center column. You get a 18ft 3 x 5 lentil (angle iron) installed above the garage door that is framed for a 17 x 7 door opening. Last resort.

The 1x2 trimmers can be removed with little adverse effect. They are not needed and are there to prevent driving rain from getting in and to hide edge of door that might show.

STEVE MC

All I can say is practice makes perfect.

PaulB

I read this yesterday and have not read the additional comments since my 1st reading. If this were my house I would be discussing with the builder. What can he do for you. I would even ask about going to a 2 car garage door which would require removal of the bricks in the middle. I would do this even if I had to place a Support Post where the bricks used to be. I simply could not live there with the narrow garage doors. Is this possibly a violation of Building Code. I wish you Luck on this...

GaryW

I dream of a 94 inch door opening! Standard UK door is 84 inches - given that a C6 is 82 inches from mirror-tip to mirror-tip that's a little close for comfort so I reverse in, keeping closer on the driver-side and fold the mirror as I go in. As long as you keep the wheel straight you won't hit anything on the way in or the way out. With an extra 10 inches to play with I can't imagine you'd have any problems.

MCSSLT1

I myself would prefer to put in a single overhead door. I see some people suggesting using a lally column to support the ceiling and using a single door. Now I am not a builder so maybe i missed something but this scenario doesn't seem possible or make sense from a building standpoint using single overhead door. The door wouldn't be able to open.

His only option as i see it is to live with it, or talk to a contractor and see if it is possible to run a beam across and go to a single door. A friend of mine has a similar garage setup. 2 narrow doors. This spring he plans on doing alot of work. I think he should go for a single door setup rather than 2 doors. Not sure what he is going to do. He had talked about only making 1 door wider. The one advantage he has is that it is all word vs the fact the OP has brick.

hanks10GS

Removing the Brick pier and installing a glue lam is not going to help with the masonry above the opening. The task certainly can be performed but as I noted in a previous post, it is not going to be cheap. You are going to have to shore up the framing and yes, a glue lam or double 2 x 10's or 2 x 12's with maybe a flitch plate (3/16" or 1/4" flat steel plate) sandwiched between would take care of the back side. You may not have to remove all of the exterior masonry, which is Brick veneer. You may get lucky with some shoring there, install the appropriately engineered steel lintel and then underpin the masonry and remove the shoring. It may or may not matter to you but you but depending upon how old the house is, you may also have issues with matching the brick and maybe the mortar depending upon the expertise level of the contractor who performs the work. Again it would be one of my last choices as a solution.
Good luck,

Thrill6

If you don't hit the mirrors driving in, you will be OK driving out. The C5 is more than an inch wider, and I learned my lesson to be careful on that one. Being an inch slimmer makes the C6 a breeze. Basically I keep to right as much as possible and very slowly inch into the garage while watching the passenger mirror to make sure it will clear. After a little practice it's really a no brainer, but I'm still very careful when pulling in.

And just in case you want to know, the mirror will fold in before it will break. The result is a small scratch on the back of the mirror where it hits the brick mold. The plastic the car is made of is a dark color and if you have a dark colored car, it's not even noticable, but if your car is white....

Gearhead Jim

The Sandman

I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. I actually HAVE been backing in, and it already seems a lot easier than it did just a week ago. I guess my confidence is building, and I am not so afraid of the "F'ing up the new car" thing. It definitely helped to find out I had 6 inches on either side instead of three, and the advice about getting the driver's side real close AND lowering the mirrors when I back in was key. I think a mirror on the back wall is a good idea too.

I like backing in so that my door doesn't open against a wall. I have to leave it in the left bay too, because the enterance to the house is behind the right bay, and I dont want my 3 kids (7,5, and 1.5) waking past it all the time to get inside. No telling what kind of food is on their hands as they touch my GS on their way into the house.

LarryMJones

I built mine 10 years ago with 8 ft doors. Okay then but the Tahoe now has to have mirrows folded. My next big SUV will have auto folding mirrows.

But this helps get the Vette on it's spot. Center the tree and drive untill the red light comes on. Tree sequences from door opening. Best time so far is 12.0 sec.



I used to have a tennis ball for both side to side and all the way in. I built the Christmas tree last weekend and now just center the tree. Main thing is get straight before you pull in garage, then just leave the steering wheel straight. For some reason my wife insists on turning hard lock to the left before she stops. Making it difficult for her to back out.
LJ

6spdC6

That looks a lot like the lineup stuff the flyfly boys use to get aboard a carrier. Chief Pontiac is there also for guidance I see!

3 Z06ZR1

Way to much money!

LarryMJones

16 ft doors weigh a ton. The opener springs are always breaking. I had one on my first house, swore I would never have a double ever again.
LJ

JerryU

This thread may get more visits with the new C7! The C7 is 1 1/3 inches wider and Car & Driver quoted a GM engineer who said the mirrors are a "bit" wider! I also have 8 foot doors which measure 93 ½ between molds. I was careful with the 2008 and had no problem. I like the “blind driveway mirror" idea and was planning to try a laser guide mounted low and on the back inside wall bracket I will build. Could mount a convex mirror on the bracket as well. It has to be low to clear the door as it goes up and over. Have lots of time while I wait for the C7 to be built and delivered. Sold the 2008 a few weeks ago to get the bucks to pay for the C7!
Anyone try the mirror idea?
Also thought the fellow from the UK had a great idea! At night, could just lower the driver window, tuck-in the mirror by hand and stay closer! Thought European models had to have electric tuck-in mirrors?
Added Note: Measured the exact width mirror to mirror tips on my C7. It is 85 inches, 2 3/8 inches wider than a C6. My 8 foot garage door is 93 1/2 inches molding to molding. That leaves only 4 1/4 inches per side IF I pull in staight, which is difficult in my spot. It is fine in the daytime but must be careful at night.

silver74vette

If you nose the car in the best bet is to get two cheap closet mirrors from Lowes or Home Depot and mount them on the wall so that you can see the car as you enter. I back it in it is more difficult.
I have a three car garage and have to make a 90 degree turn to get into it which makes things difficult.

SilverScorp

Your sideview mirrors stick out further than the fenders. If you can clear the mirrors without folding them in, then your fine. Just slow down when the mirros are crossing the door threshold when pulling in and out.

JerryU

Posted this on another Forum tread re mirror to mirror width. This solution is much better than trying to put in a wider door.
First, the C7 is listed as 73.9 inches versus the C6 at 72.6 or 1.3 inches wider. That is the body width. Than quoting a GM representative, the C7 mirrors are "somewhat wider" (assume for better blid spot visability.) Not sure what somewhat is in inches! Assuming the measurement for a C6 mirror to mirror is 82 5/8 inches then adding 2 inches is 84 5/8 inches- that doesn’t leave a lot of room for those of us with 8-foot garage doors. Mine measure 93 1/2 inches molding to molding. That leaves 4 7/16 inches on each side. That may be OK IF you can easily get perfectly 90 degrees to the door, but if coming in at a slight angle it may be close - especially at night! Having lots of time for my C7 on order to be delivered, I used 2 ideas from the Forum and made what will be a useful device when entering the garage-especially at night!
Purchased a 12-inch convex mirror used to make blind spots visible ($22 Amazon), a garage parking Laser and a spotlight. Mounted all three on a fabricated bracket that mounts to the garage door track. As someone in the Forum suggested, the Laser and spotlight are powered from the bulb in the garage door opener using a plug adapter, short bulb and a long power cord.
When the garage door bulb lights, the spotlight (mounted near the mirror) and the Laser are activated, and only then. The mirror is positioned to see the passenger side car mirror and the garage doorpost. The spotlite illuminates that area for night entry/exit. The Laser will hit a spot on the hood (not sure it’s needed but for $17 (Amazon) it was worth trying.) If you would like a photo, send me an email @ Jerry_Uttrachi@NetWelding.com.
The actual mirror to mirror width is 85 inches, even more tan estimated! Glad i added the aids!