Door jam rivets, 66 coupe
04-12-2011, 03:21 PM
#21
Some details on how to do it while door is still on car.
I went ahead and did my PS door today on 63 which was loose.
I did not need to remove or loosen door.
Caveat: I have a long arm-reach which makes it easy.
Tools needed:
*)Demel tool with 1/4" round sanding/grinding head.
*)Medium flat-head screwdriver
*)Small vice-scripts
*)18" Drill (1/4" thick) extension....the kind with the set-screws for locking in the 1/4" shaft bit.
*) SHARP 15/64" and 1/4" drill bits.
*) 7/16" socket driver (the longer the better).
Do one rivet start-to-finish are a time.
The steps are used are:
1) Get flat-head 1/4" studs described above (about $10 for 25).
2) Get some 1/4" nuts with nylon-lock ring.
3) Remove door panel and remove window service cover.
4) Grind middle of bad rivet-head until head falls off...continue grinding until shaft will push though to other side of door.
4b) I used a soft 2x1x12" stick of wood as a lever to push old rivet shaft into door for those hard-to-reach areas such as the rivets next to the door hinges. Use a small screw, held with surgical-clips as a pin to push rivet through. I'm sure there are other methods, but this worked for me and it did not damage the door-jam paint.
5) Drill out rivet hole to 1/4". It is important to drill the hole from the metal-side towards the outside fiberglass, not the other way around. Otherwise you will end up with an oval-shaped hole, or worse, you will slip and cut the fiberglass.
5a) Take the 18" extension, and TIGHTLY mount in the 15/64 drill bit. Tightly clamp the vise-scripts to other end of the extension (this will serve as a handle).
5b) Slide the drill-tool assembly into the door cavity.
5c) Reach in door and guide the drill bit into the rivet hole, then push in and turn the drill-tool by hand and drill all the way through.
5d) Remove 15/64" bit, and replace with 1/4" drill and repeat 5c. The resulting hole will be perfectly round and sized/centered correctly.
6) Get one of the studs and clamp the vice-script at the head. Jaws should be as close to being flush with the inside head of the stud.
7) Slide stud through hole. Be careful about your paint...this step should be modified to take that into account.
8) Reach inside door cavity with nut-driver and screw the stud down. It does not need to be very tight. The nylon lock ring will keep it set for years to come, and will also allow for easy removal.
Done!
I did not need to remove or loosen door.
Caveat: I have a long arm-reach which makes it easy.
Tools needed:
*)Demel tool with 1/4" round sanding/grinding head.
*)Medium flat-head screwdriver
*)Small vice-scripts
*)18" Drill (1/4" thick) extension....the kind with the set-screws for locking in the 1/4" shaft bit.
*) SHARP 15/64" and 1/4" drill bits.
*) 7/16" socket driver (the longer the better).
Do one rivet start-to-finish are a time.
The steps are used are:
1) Get flat-head 1/4" studs described above (about $10 for 25).
2) Get some 1/4" nuts with nylon-lock ring.
3) Remove door panel and remove window service cover.
4) Grind middle of bad rivet-head until head falls off...continue grinding until shaft will push though to other side of door.
4b) I used a soft 2x1x12" stick of wood as a lever to push old rivet shaft into door for those hard-to-reach areas such as the rivets next to the door hinges. Use a small screw, held with surgical-clips as a pin to push rivet through. I'm sure there are other methods, but this worked for me and it did not damage the door-jam paint.
5) Drill out rivet hole to 1/4". It is important to drill the hole from the metal-side towards the outside fiberglass, not the other way around. Otherwise you will end up with an oval-shaped hole, or worse, you will slip and cut the fiberglass.
5a) Take the 18" extension, and TIGHTLY mount in the 15/64 drill bit. Tightly clamp the vise-scripts to other end of the extension (this will serve as a handle).
5b) Slide the drill-tool assembly into the door cavity.
5c) Reach in door and guide the drill bit into the rivet hole, then push in and turn the drill-tool by hand and drill all the way through.
5d) Remove 15/64" bit, and replace with 1/4" drill and repeat 5c. The resulting hole will be perfectly round and sized/centered correctly.
6) Get one of the studs and clamp the vice-script at the head. Jaws should be as close to being flush with the inside head of the stud.
7) Slide stud through hole. Be careful about your paint...this step should be modified to take that into account.
8) Reach inside door cavity with nut-driver and screw the stud down. It does not need to be very tight. The nylon lock ring will keep it set for years to come, and will also allow for easy removal.
Done!
