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Steering Dampner

Old 06-14-2009, 08:24 PM
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sparky1340
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Default Steering Dampner

The steering dampener has been missing on my car since I bought it.
64 Vert.
I've recently acquired a noticeble shake in the steering wheel at around 65 MPH. I know most cars have a certain vibration point but this is excessive. I had the front tires balanced with no change. I'm going to check front suspension tomorrow, but wondered if the steering dampener makes that much of a difference in operation. GM must've thought so !! If I find a problem with tie rods or something else, I may install the dampener at the same time. Any Thoughts ??
Sparky
Old 06-14-2009, 09:23 PM
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jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by sparky1340
The steering dampener has been missing on my car since I bought it.
64 Vert.
I've recently acquired a noticeble shake in the steering wheel at around 65 MPH.
Since the shake has only recently appeared, this suggests it's related to worn components or out of balance/out of round tires.

Sting Rays with the 6 quart oil systems came from the factory without a dampener, so it is possible to run successfully without one. That said, in a suspension design book I once read, it was claimed that a rear-steer system had less inherent stability than a front-steer system.

I'd look for worn components.

Jim
Old 06-14-2009, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
Since the shake has only recently appeared, this suggests it's related to worn components or out of balance/out of round tires.

Sting Rays with the 6 quart oil systems came from the factory without a dampener, so it is possible to run successfully without one. That said, in a suspension design book I once read, it was claimed that a rear-steer system had less inherent stability than a front-steer system.

I'd look for worn components.

Jim
Thanks for the reply,
All new components. Ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods,etc. I'm thinking possible out of round tires. They're only 6 seasons old of Corvette driving, but they sit in the garage during most of the winter.
In regards to the dampener, the car originally was a 365hp. I would presume it then had a 6qt. oil pan ?? Will check in the morning for other problems.
Sparky
Old 06-15-2009, 02:34 PM
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Default About 10K miles without a dampner.

Last year I drove to both coasts and back (from Chicago) on new tires without so much as the hint of a shimmy.

The dampner came off years ago when I got a 6qt pan. Later I discovered the linkage still rubbed on the pan, so I went to a 6 quart Moroso.

Next I installed a quick ratio power steering box and asked on this forum whether reinstalling the dampner with a PS box would be a good idea.

It seemed that nobody had an opinion, so I just left it off and have never looked back.
Old 06-15-2009, 08:52 PM
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JohnZ
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"Balancing" isn't enough - you can precisely balance a square wheel, but it won't run on the road very well. Take the car to a shop that has a Hunter GSP-9700 balancer - that machine also measures both radial and lateral runout, AND loaded road force variation, and shows the operator the wheel/tire orientation changes to make to minimize the runout and/or force variation.

Go to www.gsp9700.com and use the locator to find the shop nearest you that has one.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
That said, in a suspension design book I once read, it was claimed that a rear-steer system had less inherent stability than a front-steer system.

Jim
Jim:

That refers to compliance understeer/oversteer.

Rear-steer has compliance oversteer, front-steer has compliance understeer. Compliance understeer will feel more stable in a corner.

Bill
Old 06-16-2009, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mashinter
Jim:

That refers to compliance understeer/oversteer.

Rear-steer has compliance oversteer, front-steer has compliance understeer. Compliance understeer will feel more stable in a corner.

Bill
Bingo! That sounds familiar! I had forgotten the details and my take-away from the book was "front steer=better". Thanks for refreshing my memory.

Jim
Old 06-16-2009, 09:54 AM
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John Z is right about the balance. If you have excessive road force, you may be in the market for a set of tires. Especially if yours have been idle for nearly 6 years with limited driving.

Does the vibration seem to get better as the tires get a few miles on them ?? What kind of tires do you have ?? Radials / or repro bias ??
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ratmotortom
John Z is right about the balance. If you have excessive road force, you may be in the market for a set of tires. Especially if yours have been idle for nearly 6 years with limited driving.

Does the vibration seem to get better as the tires get a few miles on them ?? What kind of tires do you have ?? Radials / or repro bias ??
Hello Tom,
Thanks for the response.
I have never jacked the car up off the ground for temporary storage in the Illinois winter, but maybe I should. I can see where it might take a set, and aquire a flat spot. My symptoms are the steering wheel will shake a 1/2" each direction @ around 60/65 MPH. I would think a flat spot would make for a bumpy ride, not a side to side shake.The tires are as follows: GoodYear Eagle GT - P205/65R15. I will very soon take JohnZ's suggestion and have them balanced, and checked out on a hi-end machine.
Thanks Again,
Sparky
Old 06-16-2009, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sparky1340
Hello Tom,
Thanks for the response.
I have never jacked the car up off the ground for temporary storage in the Illinois winter, but maybe I should. I can see where it might take a set, and aquire a flat spot. My symptoms are the steering wheel will shake a 1/2" each direction @ around 60/65 MPH. I would think a flat spot would make for a bumpy ride, not a side to side shake.The tires are as follows: GoodYear Eagle GT - P205/65R15. I will very soon take JohnZ's suggestion and have them balanced, and checked out on a hi-end machine.
Thanks Again,
Sparky
Found the possible cause today. !!!
Had new wheel bearings installed late last summer. Obviously at a professional mechanic that specializes in Corvettes. The wheels had play in them when you would push the top and the bottom of the tire. I was able to turn the castle nut to the next slot by hand !! I don't think wheel bearings need to be re-adjusted after "X" amount of miles. It's rainy in Chicago area for the next couple of days. I'll take it out when it clears up and post results. The big question is, do you think the bearings are worn prematurely because they were loose ?? Probably have 500mi. since installation. Spun the wheels and didn't hear anything out of the ordinary. Hoping for the best.
Sparky
Old 06-17-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sparky1340


Found the possible cause today. !!!
Had new wheel bearings installed late last summer. Obviously at a professional mechanic that specializes in Corvettes. The wheels had play in them when you would push the top and the bottom of the tire. I was able to turn the castle nut to the next slot by hand !! I don't think wheel bearings need to be re-adjusted after "X" amount of miles. It's rainy in Chicago area for the next couple of days. I'll take it out when it clears up and post results. The big question is, do you think the bearings are worn prematurely because they were loose ?? Probably have 500mi. since installation. Spun the wheels and didn't hear anything out of the ordinary. Hoping for the best.
Sparky
Took the vette out this morning. Noticed at least 150% improvement.
Problem solved. Can't imagine how smooth it will be when questionable wheels are replaced and new tires installed.
THANKS TO ALL !!!
Old 06-17-2009, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sparky1340
I was able to turn the castle nut to the next slot by hand !! I don't think wheel bearings need to be re-adjusted after "X" amount of miles.
Make sure there's no preload on the bearings. Tighten the nut to 12 ft-lbs. while spinning the tire (to seat the bearings), then back the nut off one flat and insert the cotter pin. Note that there are two holes for the cotter pin - one vertical, one horizontal.
Old 06-17-2009, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Make sure there's no preload on the bearings. Tighten the nut to 12 ft-lbs. while spinning the tire (to seat the bearings), then back the nut off one flat and insert the cotter pin. Note that there are two holes for the cotter pin - one vertical, one horizontal.
Thanks John,
Will do the 12ft.lb. check soon.
Really appreciate the time you put into the forum for all the members.
Sparky

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