TimAT TimAT is offline

Le Mans Master

About Me

  • About TimAT
    Name
    Tim Tyson
    Location
    Gladstone MO
    Occupation
    Aircraft Maintenance Inspector
    Year & Model
    1969 convertible
    Color
    Red
    Mods
    454, Aluminum 2.25/1.88 rectangle port heads, everything else inside is LS-7 or ZL-1, 12.5:1
    Biography
    worked on cars & trucks from age 14 until 30 mostly at Chevy dealers, then went to heavy airplanes. Still playing with cars. Bought a Z-28 when I graduated H.S. Had a blast with that one. 350, 2.02/1.60 heads, first design off-road cam & springs from Chevy, Hooker sidepipes, 4speed. I also have an ORIGINAL 1924 Ford T
    Country of Residence
    US

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General Information
  • Last Activity: 04-17-2024 12:46 AM
  • Member Since: 10-04-2006

Friends

Showing Friends 1 to 7 of 7

Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 14
  1. Cdub270
    05-24-2020 01:12 PM
    Tim

    I was doin a search about 17 inch rally rims for my 72 C3 and ran across your post I read that you you had 17x9's on your car , what I was wondering is what was the back space for these rims. and were there any issues I want to at least put 17x9's on the rear but will be ok with them on all 4 corners I dont have flares just a stock Steel City Gray Coupe , thanks for your help

    Calvin
  2. Big2Bird
    09-02-2015 10:46 PM
    I am just an old bird, waiting for retirement.
  3. TimAT
    08-29-2014 03:14 PM
    Lots of options- take a look at Vette Brakes & Products website- they have several different rate springs depending on your car's options and then your intended usage. If you have a steel spring now, there are still a couple of shops around KC that can rebuild yours too.
    I've heard the composite springs ride a little better but I don't have any first hand info= I've still got the original spring in mine.
    Great to hear from you- Tim
  4. jdreece
    08-29-2014 12:38 PM
    Tim - I'm looking to replace the rear spring in the car. Any suggestions? I don;t want to run into the issue of having the height in the rear look stupid like many experience. Is there a particular mfr/brand that will keep the ride height at factory setting as if new? it is a '76.

    thanks!
  5. jdreece
    03-01-2014 12:07 PM
    Hey Tim - Hope all is well and the holidays were good. Quick question - I know the Vetter is due for some wheel bearing work - not sure much has ever been done.... do you have the tools to help - are you interested - I can obviously come your way this time. No rush - figured it might be a good spring project when it actually warms up.
  6. jdreece
    12-02-2013 07:52 PM
    Just got back - I will try to call tomorrow to see what may work for you. I could do any days Wed-Fri or the weekend.
  7. jdreece
    11-21-2013 02:39 PM
    Tim - just send me a message here after you get your list of stuff done while in town. I don't want to intrude in any way on your time here!!!! I am leaving for a short vaca next Friday thru Monday but will do whatever I need to in order to time it at your convenience as best I can!!! I think part of the issue may be associated with moisture in getting into the distributor - car cut out on me yesterday - heavy rain here, but fired right up today and ran fine. Cap and Rotor are supposed to be here today. Looking forward to meeting you and to hopefully a short day of troubleshooting
  8. 82VETTEMIAMI
    02-13-2013 08:29 AM
    Hey Tim, Could you please send me your write up on swapping out the rear main seal? Want to tackle that project this weekend. Thanks, Rodrigo
  9. Jim Shea
    12-15-2010 11:19 PM
    Good looking '69! As I mentioned at Lucky's, I am currently Vette-less. Don't know if I will be getting another C3 or not.
    Here are the addresses for two pictures of my Vettes through the years.
    http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...inthecourt.jpg
    http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...terTopDown.jpg

    Thanks for the dinner. Give me a jingle the next time you are in the area.

    Jim
  10. cherry79
    05-01-2010 02:32 AM
    I just replaced the dash wiring harness and was gonna start it and check things out before I put the door panels and dash on. Alt, battery, and ignition switch all show 12 volts but it won't really begin to crank. As I stated in earlier post one of the red wires is now in a different spot on ignition switch than original. Could that be it??

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