C5 Ignition Switch Repair
#262
I know Bill Curley has sold his Vet, but if he logs on or anyone knows Bill personally, please pass along my thanks, this ignition repair worked like a champ and solved several problems for me, as well as several other of Bill's posts. Thank you Bill....
#263
Tech Contributor
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Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I log on EVERY DAY, Well,,, almost every day when work isn't going NUTS. Damn broke *** Submarines. A feller cant even enjoy the forum during LUNCH lately..
Just kidding. Glad you were able to use the post to your advantage.
Bill
#264
Sorry Bill,
I must have mis-read one of the posts and thought it was you. Thanks again for all the work and posting pictures were extremely helpful. I had a problem with codes for all the o2 heaters and it was the ignition switch... go figure.
Like working on the Vette, but love driving it.....
I must have mis-read one of the posts and thought it was you. Thanks again for all the work and posting pictures were extremely helpful. I had a problem with codes for all the o2 heaters and it was the ignition switch... go figure.
Like working on the Vette, but love driving it.....
#265
Melting Slicks
ignition switch repair
Hi all, followed the repair procedure for the switch on my new to me c5. I just joined the c5 owners ranks this month. The car I purchased is a 2001 coupe. It had the traction control warning popping up and the switch for the traction control would not work. After searching the forum for possible causes I ran across this thread and decided to give it a shot. PO had done the EBCM repair Listed on the forum but still was having the warning coming up. After repairing the switch and reinstalling I had no more traction control or active handling messages. Thanks to Bill Curlee and all you other members who make this forum work. I am not new to corvettes, but new to the c5. I love the car. It is soo far ahead of my other cars in handling and drivability, it is hard to believe I waited so long to get one. My first corvette was a 1963 roadster I purchased from a Chevrolet dealer for $800.00. Of course the year was 1969 and the car did actually start and run.
thanks Jerry
thanks Jerry
#266
I had weird delay issues on my 1999 C5 Coupe. Press the unlock button on my FOB and there was a delay in it unlocking the car. Also my volt meter in my IPC was reading a little lower than usual. Speedo would go nuts as well. Had starting problems. It would click a bit before starting or there would be a delay before it would start, but it did finally start every time.
Looked on here for issues and saw this thread about the ignition switch. Took it out and the contacts were pretty fouled. Cleaned them and put the switch back in ( had help. Not the best with electronics ). Have not had any issues since. Everything is working perfectly now.
Great thread.
Thanks Bill.
Looked on here for issues and saw this thread about the ignition switch. Took it out and the contacts were pretty fouled. Cleaned them and put the switch back in ( had help. Not the best with electronics ). Have not had any issues since. Everything is working perfectly now.
Great thread.
Thanks Bill.
#267
2002 C5 ignition switch issue
Bill, can you explain where to connect the volt meter leads to check the resistance on the ignition switch? Should the green cap remain on and I would simply connect to the male pins. If so what pins for each key position?
I have a 2002 C5 and 4 of the connections were pitted so I cleaned them and bent the arms for a tighter fit. All seemed ok, I put it back in the car and it would not start. Turns out that I wiggled the black + white connectors then the car started. I will now check the black + white connector female plugs to see if they are burnt or look loose.
Still need to know where to hook up the volt meter leads to check resistance.
Great post in any case. I like when I don't have to take my car to the dealer.
I have a 2002 C5 and 4 of the connections were pitted so I cleaned them and bent the arms for a tighter fit. All seemed ok, I put it back in the car and it would not start. Turns out that I wiggled the black + white connectors then the car started. I will now check the black + white connector female plugs to see if they are burnt or look loose.
Still need to know where to hook up the volt meter leads to check resistance.
Great post in any case. I like when I don't have to take my car to the dealer.
#269
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Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
#271
Burning Brakes
Hey Bill,
Sorry to ask this again but you were going to take apart the mechanical side of a switch a while back.
I got a little too ambitious and took mine apart before I read your warning (which is too too true..) NEVER TAKE OFF THE BACK OF THE SWITCH!!!
I might have lost 1 of the springs inside, I am one short...
Do you remember if all 5 brass plungers in the switch had springs?
Chad
Sorry to ask this again but you were going to take apart the mechanical side of a switch a while back.
I got a little too ambitious and took mine apart before I read your warning (which is too too true..) NEVER TAKE OFF THE BACK OF THE SWITCH!!!
I might have lost 1 of the springs inside, I am one short...
Do you remember if all 5 brass plungers in the switch had springs?
Chad
#272
Burning Brakes
So I had an old weed wacker that I couldn't get running and I remembered this little spring in the carb. Took it out and what do you know, it fits!! Its a little tall but I'll just cut it down a bit.
I'd still like to know if anyone has taken this side apart like I did, if there were springs for all 5.
I'd still like to know if anyone has taken this side apart like I did, if there were springs for all 5.
Hey Bill,
Sorry to ask this again but you were going to take apart the mechanical side of a switch a while back.
I got a little too ambitious and took mine apart before I read your warning (which is too too true..) NEVER TAKE OFF THE BACK OF THE SWITCH!!!
I might have lost 1 of the springs inside, I am one short...
Do you remember if all 5 brass plungers in the switch had springs?
Chad
Sorry to ask this again but you were going to take apart the mechanical side of a switch a while back.
I got a little too ambitious and took mine apart before I read your warning (which is too too true..) NEVER TAKE OFF THE BACK OF THE SWITCH!!!
I might have lost 1 of the springs inside, I am one short...
Do you remember if all 5 brass plungers in the switch had springs?
Chad
#273
Burning Brakes
So it looks like the 5 springs are correct, I put it back together and after charging the battery, it started fine and seems to function right.
So I had an old weed wacker that I couldn't get running and I remembered this little spring in the carb. Took it out and what do you know, it fits!! Its a little tall but I'll just cut it down a bit.
I'd still like to know if anyone has taken this side apart like I did, if there were springs for all 5.
I'd still like to know if anyone has taken this side apart like I did, if there were springs for all 5.
#274
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Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
#275
Burning Brakes
#276
Bill this is awesome thread. for me its a bit overwhelming. tell me what you think on my issue.
Took my Z for a drive sunday no worries. Went to back it out of the garage sunday morning. and the key would not even go in the key hole. I had to force it in and it finally went. after in the key would not turn at all. I applied a little harder pressure and I could feel it trigger at the back and it turned the key over and let me start the car. it will start everytime now, but I have to really push the key when it gets to the very back. it slides in easy then I have to give it a small push at the end, and the key will turn over. when it turns over its not very smooth. I can feel it catch and break lose.
any opinions would will be helpful
Took my Z for a drive sunday no worries. Went to back it out of the garage sunday morning. and the key would not even go in the key hole. I had to force it in and it finally went. after in the key would not turn at all. I applied a little harder pressure and I could feel it trigger at the back and it turned the key over and let me start the car. it will start everytime now, but I have to really push the key when it gets to the very back. it slides in easy then I have to give it a small push at the end, and the key will turn over. when it turns over its not very smooth. I can feel it catch and break lose.
any opinions would will be helpful
#277
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You either have a damaged VATS sensor OR a damaged key lock cylinder.
Either way,,,TRUST ME! Get a NEW Lock Cylinder and have a Lock Smith re-key it to your key before you get STRANDED some where in the boonies or a bad place in town.
Thats Murphy's 26 law and one of the most prevalent one.
The lock cylinder/VATs sensor is a completely different part than the Ignition Switch.
Bill
Either way,,,TRUST ME! Get a NEW Lock Cylinder and have a Lock Smith re-key it to your key before you get STRANDED some where in the boonies or a bad place in town.
Thats Murphy's 26 law and one of the most prevalent one.
The lock cylinder/VATs sensor is a completely different part than the Ignition Switch.
Bill
#280
Another happy owner
After chasing Gremlins on and off for a year I decided to change the switch. Got one from Gene and like a magic wand BAMM all fixed.
Only took about a hour from start to finish and that included looking for lost screws.
If your on the fence about this repair don't be, its a piece of cake.
Bob
Only took about a hour from start to finish and that included looking for lost screws.
If your on the fence about this repair don't be, its a piece of cake.
Bob