My work e-mail will NOT let me access some web sites like UTUBE, Photobucket. MSN-E MAIL etc.... All my pictures are on photobucket so, I dont see them either when Im at work.:thumbs: Some people attach their files somehow and Im able to view them.

Bill C

I did this procedure to my switch a couple months ago. Mine looked exactly like the one in Bill's pics right down the placement of the carbonization on the specific terminals. I took a dremel with a wire brush, got everything sparkly, light coating of silicone grease on it all, and then bent in a bit more pressure on the contact arms. :thumbs: It takes significantly more pressure to turn the key now, but I like it that way.

Thanks Bill......I'm certain this is the problem!.....I'll check it again tonight from home.....

Thanks to everyone for the speedy replies/suggestions

TTT

More exposure for a problem thats getting more and more prevalent.:thumbs:

BC

....Bump

Thank You Bill
 

Add me to this list of people who owe Bill a beer. I have been having this issue for the past 3 years and the dealer could not find the issue. A few hours of labor and I am good as new. :cheers:

This forum is outstanding.......


Kelly Cook
Showmevette
St. Louis, Missouri

Bill it seems I may have this same issue...

Takes more than a few clicks to start the car and when it does turn over my gauge cluster only throws up a Check Gauge icon and a "low voltage" warning message for the first few seconds and then it goes away, everything is normal from then on.

The KICKER- If I have been driving the car for a good amount of time though and I shut it off and restart within a few minutes it fires up quick and no funny messages...

On top of that my MPG #s resets each time that happens. Im guessing if it was the battery that it would have went out by now? (symptoms have been going on for about a month now)

My car is a 99 Hardtop :cheers:

Had the same issue on my 18k car with the "low Voltage" illuminating, it was the battery.

You got the clicks so you need to fix your ignition switch!

Keeping this Thread Alive... Seeing more people with this Problem..

It will never hurt to service your ignition switch, I can NOT always say its the switch that is at fault. Good troubleshooting procedures will lead you in the correct direction. Measuring the ignition on voltages at the fuses that the switch provides and look for a voltage drop/loss. If you see a voltage drop, the switch is at fault.

There are several issues that can cause your starter NOT to crank the engine. Most of the time its a bad/compromised connection in the HIGH CURRENT portion of the electrical circuit. The eyelets and wiring on the starter solenoid are always PRIME SUSPECTS when it comes to starting issues. GM C5 starter solenoids are well known to cause NO CRANK issues. Theres a problem inside the solenoid that causes a high resistance issue and a RAP with something heavy will most of the time allow the starter to work. I had that very issue. I had an insulated 3 foot rod in my trunk that I would snake down between the header tubes and whack the starter and WHAM,,,, it would start.

You can swap out the solenoid for approx $50. A new starter cost 3 times that much. :thumbs: Yes you need to remove the starter to replace the solenoid. ;)

I thought I would throw this out since I see 5-6 starter / cranking post a week.

Bill Curlee

Today I got the P1518 code along with the Reducede Engine Power and Charge Sytem Fault warning. Before I read this post, I thought it was my fuel pump. Does this switch stop the pump for activating? I see how to refurbish the switch; however, I need a thread on how to remove and replace the switch.

Help
 

My switch is 90% removed. I do not know how to remove the cable nor the key cylinder. Someone please help.

I have an intermittent problem I think could be the ignition but not sure:
When I insert the key and turn to acc everything works fine but when I turn to start the gauges all go off and the car won't start. If I hold the key in the start position and jiggle it and turn it very slowly but keep it in the start position it will start. I have had this happen 3-4 times but it always starts. Could it be the ignition or maybe solenoid or just a ground problem? Any info would be appreciated:cheers:

As much as I advertise the Ignition switch as causing issues,,,,yours sounds more like a bad splenoid or Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR)

The next time that it wont start, turn the key to start and hold it there. Then lift the clutch peddel off the clutch safety switch and then press it back down. When you do this,,,listen closley for a CLICK from the TDR in the passengers foot well. If the relay CLICKS,,,that rules out the ignition switch.

Check the tightness and connection cleanliness of the wires on the solenoid. If that doesnt fix it, change the solenoid.

BC

Great post Bill. Always trying to help the rest of us out. Thank you so much. If you ever find your self in Houston I'll buy you a cold one! :cheers:

I just applied Bill's recommendations to my switch and it cured all my problems. I would turn the key to on and hear constant clicking from passenger area, and dash would flash all kind of errors. When I got it apart, it looked almost exactly like the one in his picks with at least two contacts severely burned.

Still early to say no problems, but where 2 out of 3 times it would fail before, I've had 15 successful starts with zero failures!

Thanks Bill

GOOD JOB!! Thank you for posting your results in this post! Gotta keep it going so others will see it :thumbs:

Another success story - Thank you Bill!
 

Well I too fell victim of the flickering dask lights, low voltage, reduced power, Service Traction Control, and so on.
I have a 2001 Z06
The problem progressively got worse which was a good thing because I was able to take my voltmeter and take voltage readings while my dash lights were flickering, relays chattering and my DIC displayed 5.88v. I checked my fuel pump relay voltage and sure enough it read 5.88v while my voltage at the battery was 12.53v. As a result, I took my ignition switch apart and this is what I found.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../Z06Switch.jpg
and the other piece
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../SwitchZ06.jpg

Cleaned everything up and all is good. After, I cycled the ignition switch a dozen times and it worked everytime. Before it would crap out 3 out of 5 times and in the end it crap out 1 for 1 :(

Bill's instructions worked perfectly and now all is good.

:cheers:

Taking out ignition switch
 

Guys, this is awesome but I am a newby and have a question. Can anyone post how to get to the ignition switch, what to take off, where the screws are etc?

Terry
www.hybridz.org

Hi on Automatic's that have the brake cable all you have to do is put your key in the cylinder and turn it. It relases the brake cable.

To get the cylinder out, just turn the whole switch over. You will see a small hole about the size of a pencils eraser. Just use a small screw driver and press in the lock table in that hole. Just lightly pull the cylinder will come out. ;)