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No problem. Im seeing more and more ignition switch issues. There are some really strange issues when the contacts go bad!
BC |
Bill sorry I haven't gotten back to you, I have done the switch thing, relay replacements, chassis ground thing, checked out the battery seems OK, will load test tomorrow. I cleared the following codes Sunday:
BO-RFA U1096H U1064H U1016H Just checked for codes and those same three are back after taking the wife to dinner and a movie! p.s. After 23 years together I don't expect to get lucky tonite after the dinner and a movie thing! Kent |
didn't solve any of my issues, but I did have burnt contacts as Bill showed, so I probaly got to it before it was a problem, and it was a easy fix, good write up
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I've been frustated,,my Z06 starts sometimes. I've tried cleaning the contacts but I still have problems starting it. The key is vey loose in the lock....I have a heavy key chain, maybe that's the problem.
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Bingo! The key cylinder was not designed to support a lot of weight.
Originally Posted by CJR2
(Post 1567219738)
The key is vey loose in the lock....I have a heavy key chain, maybe that's the problem.
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Originally Posted by nextime
(Post 1567224250)
Bingo! The key cylinder was not designed to support a lot of weight.
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Originally Posted by CJR2
(Post 1567219738)
I've been frustated,,my Z06 starts sometimes. I've tried cleaning the contacts but I still have problems starting it. The key is vey loose in the lock....I have a heavy key chain, maybe that's the problem.
Originally Posted by nextime
(Post 1567224250)
Bingo! The key cylinder was not designed to support a lot of weight.
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
(Post 1567232089)
:iagree: Heavy crap hanging off the ignition key will GREATLY accelerate wear/tear on the lock cylinder assembly. Especially on a fairly stiffly sprung car like a Corvette.
So Bill should I replace it? |
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
(Post 1564278919)
Once I bent the movable contacts to add more contact pressure the switch has a more pronounced feel and the resistance readings were very good.
With the additional contact pressure there should be less contact arcing and deformation from heating. Hell,,,:rolleyes: ,, for the price of that switch and the 30 min it took to fix it, it was WELL WORTH the effort. It will also allow you to troubleshoot and see if that switch was the ROOT cause of the problem. I love free repairs!:D If this helps ONE person it was well worth the effort. The next thing that I want to do is make a detailed list of the what each contact in the switch goes to and what symptoms/ faults are seen when that contact fails!:thumbs: BC the write up was "out of the park". I have what I believe to be a switch problem because I have the security light on 95% of the time and a strange need to switch a key to the spare to stop the car from cutting the engine. If one key starts the engine and cuts out I switch to the other key and everytime is fine. It is not that one key is bad because just the opposite key start up can be used and the same results are experienced. The problem is not all the time but seems to be increasing. My car is a 98 coupe and I wonder what I need to do to limit my fault search to the switch. Thanks |
Just have the ignition key and fob on the keychain and I would assume you will be fine. If not you will have to replace it.
Originally Posted by CJR2
(Post 1567231355)
Do you think I should replace the cylinder? Can I reuse my keys or do I need new ones as well?:bigears
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Originally Posted by kg54trains
(Post 1567237311)
Bill
the write up was "out of the park". I have what I believe to be a switch problem because I have the security light on 95% of the time and a strange need to switch a key to the spare to stop the car from cutting the engine. If one key starts the engine and cuts out I switch to the other key and everytime is fine. It is not that one key is bad because just the opposite key start up can be used and the same results are experienced. The problem is not all the time but seems to be increasing. My car is a 98 coupe and I wonder what I need to do to limit my fault search to the switch. Thanks The Innition Switch for Our C5's has THREE parts: - The electrical switch part which I detail how to fix. - The mechanical part of the switch (behind the electrical part) that has the cams in it that open and close the electrical contacts and a spring that returns the switch to the run position after you go to start. - The VATS switch module which contains a set of silver plated contacts which contact the resistor pellet on your key. The module has two wires that connect to the harness and connect to the BCM. It is possible for those contacts to get dirty or even become weak and not make proper contact on the pellet. Having a 5 lb key chain really stresses that module and the key switch. Bill |
Bill, once again you come to the rescue! I hear GM wants to add you to their payroll so you will stop helping out Vette Forum members from getting hosed. LOL, just kidding. I want to thank you for the time you have taken to investigate and solve the problem, not to mention taking the time to sitdown and write this article to help out your Vette brothers!
:cheers: |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Scubanme
(Post 1567244067)
Bill, once again you come to the rescue! I hear GM wants to add you to their payroll so you will stop helping out Vette Forum members from getting hosed. LOL, just kidding. I want to thank you for the time you have taken to investigate and solve the problem, not to mention taking the time to sitdown and write this article to help out your Vette brothers!
:cheers: I forgot to include the automatic corvettes to my breakdown of the switch. They have a brake release cable that connects to their switch. Attachment 48162093 Here is the picture of the VATS module on the switch. I went out and disassembled my car for this pic: Attachment 48162094 Attachment 48162095 JUST KIDDING!:D Bill |
Originally Posted by CJR2
(Post 1567232629)
Add all the Autocross events and a lot of track-time I've put about 200,000 miles of wear on it.:ack:
So Bill should I replace it? |
I would just disassemble it and clean and adjust it. Save the cash for cool stuff. It's fun. C5 bonding!!! If you disassembel it and it all botched up, then you will know that you need to lay out the cash.
You will be very surprised how much better the electrical functions on your car will be. Bill |
My C5 is having the same issues, we've cleaned the contacts as you recommended but still "Security" light comes on. What other things should we be looking at?
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Originally Posted by ClydeC6
(Post 1567280962)
My C5 is having the same issues, we've cleaned the contacts as you recommended but still "Security" light comes on. What other things should we be looking at?
Clean ALL the under hood grounds. ESPECIALLY G-101 and G-102. make sure that you completely dissemble the ground connector plugs. BC |
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
(Post 1567321028)
Clean ALL the under hood grounds. ESPECIALLY G-101 and G-102. make sure that you completely dissemble the ground connector plugs.
BC |
TTT for all of you that may not have seen this post.
BC |
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