What a guy ! The man deserves an award for all this stuff. Thank you once again Bill for the time you take with the detailed fixes you post.
This one had no better timing as the car started really acting goofy lately such as dying for no reason. Key on and gauges would not sweep as normal and more. I was about to order a new switch and spotted this post. Just finished pulling the thing and sure enough pitted/nasty conacts. I used one of my wifes disposable emory boards (nail file thingy) cut down to fit and cleaned them up. Bent the arms of the conacts for greater pressure just you suggested and viola like new!
I also went one more step and removed the key pellet contact piece in the front of the lock cylinder just out of curiosity. It is a clear plastic piece housing two spring contacts which press against the pellet when inserted which does not look servicable (not sure if pressed together or glued?) I did monitor the action of the key with a vom and wiggle tested with no intermitent opens.
Time will tell if all is well. Thanks again Bill, you made my day. Tom. :thumbs:

Tom

Thanks for the good words. I still need to add in some more data. Hopefully I be able to after I finish all my projects/

BC

Where is the ignition switch located? This might be IT (evil laugh) .. my electrical gremlin that has been hounding me for months!!

:lolg: :lol: Its right behind the thing that you stick your key in every morning!:D The key cylinder is inside that switch. :thumbs: You need to remove the close out panel from under the dash and the center console cover! There it be!!:thumbs: :)

Hope this helps.

BC

Bill, Thnkx for your reply. I was told that the ignition switch might be attached to the steering column and a PITA to get to :o Some of us here on the Forum are working very hard to learn from the elite group of experts such as you :D. You are my hero :thumbs: and using your posted instructions I hope to add another success story to this post, hopefully promoting it to sticky status one day.

I want to thank you for your post on the ignition switch repair. I can't tell you how much it helped in tracking down the source of the dreaded "service traction control and active handling" The codes were P1571,P1689,C1277 and IPC & SDM U1040 also cleared was B0432 rear defog ckt. I would have never suspected the switch without you taking the time to figure it out and then to take the time to post your repair procedure in detail. I replaced my switch (ordered from Gene) and then checked the old switch and found 3 burned contacts. All the codes have cleared and not returned. My guess that these switches are the source of a lot of the C5's electrical gremlins. By the way mine is an 01 with 70k and a daily driver and that adds up to a lot of cycles on the switch. My hats off to you Bill, thank you so much for all your help :thumbs: :thumbs: Ron R.

I am ready to remove and clean the contacts on my ignition switch. Are there any precautions to be taken before disconnecting and when connecting the ignition switch on my 98-coupe? I am worried about the anti-theft alarm kicking in and disabling the car. Any advice would be good :cheers:

YES!!!!!!!!!!!! Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable from the battery before you remove ANY electronics and when your done reconnect it, and then clear and DTCs that may have popped up during the reconnect. Retorque the battery terminals to 11 ft/lbs for 97-2003 C5's

BC

:party: ANOTHER SUCCESS STORY :party:

Found the worst electrical gremlin hiding in my ignition switch. Took me in all 2 hours, from start to finish using Bill's instructions, and all codes are gone.

I've circled the failing contacts ..

Attachment 48164521

Attachment 48164522

and the final result

Attachment 48164523

Time for a chilled beer and some spicy peanuts :cheers: Bill I am having another in your name .. you are my hero!!

BC hits another one outta the park! Looks like "Sticky" material to me!

If we are taking votes for a sticky status on this post, I am IN.

I spent close to $800 (replacing shocks, using F45 sims, labor) till I found that the problem was the d**n ignition switch, which cost me nothing to fix, thanks to BC's post. I did endup losing my F45 shocks which were all good to begin with. I would have ended up shelling more $$$'s had it not been for this post .. now I can use the money saved to buy me some mod goodies :thumbs:

Bump this up! I am having a similar problem here and took the time to check my switch thoroughly today. See post #7 especially:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1991852

My advice is to follow these instructions to the letter. It is a very simple task. I'm honestly ashamed to admit that I almost didn't take the time to recondition this switch!

switch
 

Bill,

I have just started to have intermittent issues related to starting, shutting off etc.

Your info has probably saved me untold hours of time plus frustration.

Thanks so much for your detailed information.

J.R.

ttt because the info here is priceless! :thumbs:

Just did this fix on my 2000 convertible. I have a little over 68,000 miles on it and the contact looked just like the pictures above.

This is why the forum is a great place to go for help.

Excellent. Hope this post keeps helping people!:thumbs: :flag:

In an effort to help other people with their WEIRD electrical issues, I'm bumping this post TTT and also linking this MAGNIFICENT and VERY INFORMATIVE post generated by another talented and truly amazing forum member MIKER (Mike)

It details how to repair the Headlight Switch (multifunction switch) in excellent detail.

The combination of these two self repairs will save us TONs of cash!!!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...adlight+switch

Ttt

What a great post Bill

I just hope I never need to use it

Fantastic info:cheers:

About $280, including parts and labor...And that's not including the tow to the dealership...:o

Thanks Bill!:thumbs: