Thanks Bill!

I rebuilt my ignition switch tonight. No difference in DIC voltages, and I wasn't experiencing any strange DTCs, just thought it would be good PM.

Instead of bending the contact arms for better contact, I bent the extra "springs" that push on the back of the contact arms... I figured that's what they are there for anyway. This may have made reassembly easier as well, I didn't have any issues with contacts getting hung up and requiring lifting to get in place. Something you may want to try out the next time you're rebuilding a switch!

Once again, thanks for your GREAT tutorial and your insightful schematic diagnostics! This forum (and its owners/operators) all owe you BIGTIME! If you ever get seriously lost and for some reason wind up in Ottawa I'll be buying you a nice steak dinner!

Bill; Sent PM
Karl

Thanks Bill
Put in a new battery and reprogrammed the key and it seems to be OK. I'll taks some trial runs tomorrow. I've had the car since November 1997 and it has 133000 miles.
The DIC codes (all History) after installing the new battery are:
C1255H
B0503H
B0508H
B2721H
B2735H
U1096H
B2282H
B2284H
U1064H
B2283H
B2285H
B0851H
U1160H
U1255H
From what I can tell from the manual B2721 and B2735 might be related to the ignition switch.
Thanks for your help.
Karl

133,000 MILES!:eek::eek: WOW! :thumbs::rock::cheers::flag:

If you overhaul your IGNITION SWITCH,,,,,,,,,,,,, you will think you have a new car!!!! :thumbs::cheers:

Clear ALL those OLD codes and monitor what comes back and work n the DTC that come back elimination!

Keep those wheels a turning!

BC

Many Thanks for your help, I'll work the switch next week.
BTW Does the switch also control the shift on an automatic? I have been having trouble putting the car in gear from the Park position after starting.

I do not have or have ever owned an AUTOMATIC C5. However,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I have some info that can help. YES,, there is a PARK Nuteral detent cable that prevents you from shifting out of PARK unless the BRAKE is applied.

Heres a pic of that cabel on the IGNITION SWITCH:

Attachment 48150114

Attachment 48150115

If you have a SERVICE MANUAL,,,,,,,,,,, the adjustment procedure is in there! Yes it can effect shifting out of PARK!

BC

Thought that might be the case, i'll work on that as well. Took the car out for a run and it hesitates like it is going to stall and I got a B2721C code (nice to know the codes can be checked while driving), I'm sure replacing the ignition switch will take care of that.
Again thanks for your help.

C5 starting problem
 

My 02 sometimes requires me to turn the key many times before the starter will engage. The dash lights all come on but turning the key to start doesn't do a thing. It doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't matter if the motor is cold or warm. Mechanic wants to replace the starter. I'm not so sure after reading about the ignition switch. Could the switch be the culprit this time? Thanks for your input.

I told the mechanic that I'm not replacing a perfectly good starter. I showed him the picture of the solenoid with corroded connections. He thought for a few minutes and remembered his 99 Vette had a problem that was similar. He told me the next time it happened to jiggile the key in the start position. It worked. For a measly $53 I bought a new AC Delco switch. For that kind of money I would not mess with repairing one.

Rabbi

I stopped telling people what "measly" was a LONG time ago!! SAVING $50 could be the difference between driving to work or bumming a ride..

BC

Has anyone made the mistake and taken the back side of the switch off the cylinder ignition like I did? Or would anyone know how to properly place these brass rods/springs that I mixed up?

There are 5 brass rods and 3 springs. Not sure what goes where......

Attachment 48147818

I have never taken the BACK of the switch apart!! Theres really no need to

DON'T!! I repeat DO NOT TAKE THE BACK OF THE SWITCH APART!!

Reason,,,,,,,, There is NO, NADA, NILCH, ZERO reason to! There are not any electrical connections that are serviceable there.

On that note,, seminoles2005,,, your in luck. I will forgo my recommendation that I just gave above and take my spare switch apart just so people who make the mistake of disassembling the wrong end will have a way to correct their mistake. :D:thumbs::rock:

:toetap::toetap:

SOAB! :willy::rofl: I can see why I never removed the bottom mechanical side of the switch!:eek::crazy2:

All those plastic snaps are a royal pain in the ass to get un done without breaking them or up-setting the pins inside. I have a plan,, so "PLEASE STAND BY" :thumbs::D

BC

A dim bulb mechanic changed my switch, and now my security light is on most of the time. It turns off at start, than turns on during the drive. Sometimes it just stays on all the time. Once in a while it looks to be working as it should.

What security , (or other ) issues is this effecting? Any ideas on how to correct this?

Because of the quality of the work, They only charged for parts. I still feel ripped off, and should have read this post first.

Now I have some sort of bypass on the key resister and I don't know what else. I guess it is hard to explain what you don't understand , I couldn't get a straight story out of the service writer.

The car starts but the security light is on most of the time. Is this effecting any theft stuff? Even if it were no big deal, replacing the bulb behind the dash because it was on all the time and burned out, is not my idea of a satisfying time.

I do not know what I was thinking. I should have read some more rather than taking on the task in removing the cylinder. I thought there was something at the bottom of this thing I had to remove in order to release the cylinder.

It wasn't until after I removed it that I realized there was a little button you press with the key in the cylinder turned half way that will release it. Dumb mistake of mine for sure.

I thought about going to a junk yard and removing this part from a camaro(hoping they are similar) and seeing if the switch is the same so I can properly match all the springs to the right holes.

And it was a PITA removing all those tabs without breaking them. Way too much work for something that was so not needed.

If you can remove your spare switch without messing everything up like I did I will greatly appreciate it Bill!

ignition switch
 

I put in a new AC Delco and it worked well for about 2 weeks and then started giving trouble again. The end result is to put electrial contact cleaner or WD 40 on the key and sliding it in and out, wiping and respraying each time. Before I had a chance to do this, it acted up again and I licked the key and it worked. One repair shop told me the switch needed to be linked to the computer. LOL

PM sent should help. Let me know.

Thanks guys for the replies. Didn't think of the ignition switch, but going to check it out now.

my 99 frc , has started while driving most gauges go dead ,( not tach and speedo ) traction control goes active radio turns off security light comes on , should I check / clean contacts or look at the bcm , I saw a procedure to seset bcm somewhere , my car has 189k + miles and the previous owner was hard on the car and I have been repairing little things as I go , the pnly code that shows up is secondary air injection code

well went and took the BCM out of the car and pulled the circuit board out and looked at it , could not see anything abnormal . found where the tabs that clamp the circuit board and where the screw hold it were dirty so I cleaned those areas and bent tabs to clamp tighter . went and test drove about 20 miles and never lost power to gauges and radio

Well, I'm still in the middle of trying to figure out the no-start issues with my '04, but I will say this - at only 16,500 miles on my car, the ignition contacts were already pitted. Though that repair didn't solve my problem, it's interesting to note how early this actually starts (oh, and how easy this whole repair really is). Cleaned my 101 and 102 grounds, and still nothing. Hitting the fuses now...just got my multimeter back :toetap: