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TheRadioFlyer's LED "halo" tail light mod
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Vette Essentials: Replace any interior piece: shift boot A4 and MN6, counsol lid, ect
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Leaky rear fix...with pics
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TPM battery replacement
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Multi-Function Switch / Headlight Switch / Blinker Arm Removal
Just thought I'd add my writeup on removing the headlight switch/blinker arm assembly! I've received many grateful PM's in the past few months, so this needs to be where it can do even more good.
Enjoy! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-a-how-to.html |
Hello;
The OE flasher isn't the most reliable either so sometimes bypassing it can be a good option. Here's how to do a flasher bypass. Pick up an electronic flasher and a connector for it. I didn't see a flasher connector but I found a 3-wire headlight pigtail that would work just as well. Picture shows a HD12 but an EL12 is a good flasher to use for this. http://i44.tinypic.com/28chkw3.jpg Note that the HD12 flasher is not suitable for use with all LED signal lights. It requires a minimum load of 1 normal signal bulb. Then, pull out the extra wire and you're ready to go. http://i39.tinypic.com/2ltg5fk.jpg The white connector is the one you need to get to. This connector is directly under the ignition switch. The picture is taken sideways. The end of the connector with the paper tags around it goes to the hazard switch and is the side you need to work on. http://i42.tinypic.com/w1wfog.jpg - Unplug it. - Cut the purple and pink wires. Cap off the ends going to the hazard switch. - Connect one wire from the flasher to the plug end of the purple wire. - Connect the other wire from the flasher to the pink wire. I didn't cut the pink wire but then realized after looking at the schematic again that it's fine cutting both wires. The flasher may have a X terminal and, if so, connect the X terminal to the pink wire and the other terminal to the purple wire. You can also get a couple of spade connectors and just crimp them onto the ends of the 2 wires and plug them onto the flasher. The spade part of those connetors is usually exposed and I don't like having any exposed electrical wiring, hence my use of the headlight plug. http://i42.tinypic.com/20iglg5.jpg Plug the connector back in, install the flasher and test it. http://i39.tinypic.com/11slglc.jpg If it works, put the car back together and you're done. If it doesn't work, you could possibly have the wires to the flasher backwards so carefully remove the side wire from the connector and plug it into the other side so you can turn the flasher around. FYI, the new flasher will be used for the normal signals. The OE flasher will still be used for the hazards. Here is some extra info on a flasher pigtail.
Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
(Post 1588482722)
I was able to find the correct 2-wire flasher pigtail to do the conversion, and just wanted to pass along that info to others doing the flasher mod.
Dorman P/N 84734 is the 2-wire flasher pigtail, that I used, available at O'Reily's and other auto parts stores. Thanks to lionelhutz for his excellent write-up and pics! I now have turn signals that work every time I need to use them! |
Just an FYI for you who are interested in replacing the batteries in you r TPM. Get a volt meter that allows you to load test the battery. If the battery is below 2.5v during the load test your battery is not good enough to send a signal to the reciever. If you just check it with DC volt meter it may show to still have 3+ volts.
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How to lower your C5
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How to DIY repair a curbed polished aluminum rim
I didn't see this in the list so I searched it out to add it...should be valuable to a lot of members:thumbs:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...y-with-it.html |
Does anyone know of a fix for an airbag light that stays on all the time on the C5? Is the number of times the light blinks on startup mean anything? I recently did a pull / re-install for a horn in-opp issue.
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Originally Posted by Red-Vroom
(Post 1571737071)
Does anyone know of a fix for an airbag light that stays on all the time on the C5? Is the number of times the light blinks on startup mean anything? I recently did a pull / re-install for a horn in-opp issue.
Read and post your DTCs and it will tell you whats not happy. READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs) The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure: 1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. 2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…) 3) Press and hold OPTIONS 4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period. Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display. There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction. Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction. Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back. To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules. NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information? First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. Here is very good site of DTC definitions: http://www.gearchatter.com Make sure to include the H or C suffix!! BC |
Here they are:
B0026HC ??? C1255H EBTCM Internal Malfunction U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM B2285H Battery #2 Fault U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM U1096H ??? U1016H Loss of Communications with PCM As you can see some of these I don’t know the meaning? All I did is disconnect the battery, pull the #16 fuse from the panel in the passenger side foot well, removed the airbag / horn button and dis-connected the yellow cable + horn wires. I reversed all the steps when I put it back together. Any Ideas? |
Originally Posted by Red-Vroom
(Post 1571738315)
Here they are:
B0026HC ??? C1255H EBTCM Internal Malfunction U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM B2285H Battery #2 Fault U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM U1096H ??? U1016H Loss of Communications with PCM As you can see some of these I don’t know the meaning? All I did is disconnect the battery, pull the #16 fuse from the panel in the passenger side foot well, removed the airbag / horn button and dis-connected the yellow cable + horn wires. I reversed all the steps when I put it back together. Any Ideas? U1096H Loss of comms with IPC Ok,,,You have LOTS of Loss of Comms codes and a B2285H Battery #2 Fault. Two things can cause a LOSS OF COMMS. - An actual loss of communications cause by corruption of the serial buss. - Loss or incorrect power to the modules effected. A couple of things to check out: Is your battey fully charged and in good condition/ Recommend removing the battery, cleaning the battery cable terminals. Have the battery fully checked out at a automotive store. Check the battery for proper Cold Cranking Amps and output under load. Have you tried to reset the DTCs and clear them. Please answer those questions and get back to us. BC |
Found the Bug!
After you I.D. the B0026 code as an open circuit & I’m back at my garage. I pulled the air bag again and checked out the yellow 90º connector, when I went to pull the “snap pin” the whole connector came off the air bag, it never made contact and was about 1/4" off the surface. With the “snap pin” removed I made sure the connector was well seated against the air bag, on a C5 the bulk of the connector should fit flush against the air bag then put in the snap pin. Now the connector is secure. The airbag light now goes off when the car is on. Thank you for the help. |
the howto on HUD installation is awesome. easy instructions. On my 97 I went from no HUD to a HUD in less then 2 hours. :thumbs: The only two thing's I dont like is that my odometer now say i have 2,200 miles LOL (the car actually has quite a few more miles) I also dont like that the Z06 logo is on the tac side of my cluster. other then that its great.
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Power seat issues..look here
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Oil Pressure Sender Relocation How To (former sticky)
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How to fix exterior mirrors with broken swivels (former sticky)
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C5 Differential Rebuild
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