I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy?
#1
Burning Brakes
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I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy?
Well guys... I am somewhat familiar with C4s.... I don't know 1/10 all of you do though. I am going to be spending between 10-15k on one. All the bodystyles are fine with me, I have an 82, but wanted to hot rod a C4 out (dont ask why ) Anyways, I want a red or yellow one (if that matters) at about 50-80k miles on it. I want basically every option you could have gotten on the car. I know that the 90's are basically out of my budget range for what I want. I would prefer a conv. also. So what yr. would be the best to buy for my price range. Champaign taste on a beer budget (but I have time so I can pounce on a deal when I see it). 84-90... which one?
Thanks my future C4 friends,
Andy
Thanks my future C4 friends,
Andy
#2
Safety Car
Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
Avoid anything before 90 if you want to keep the stock computer.
Options:
90-91 Good - Speed density computer not limited by MAF. No opti, Heads etc cheaper than LT1. Bad - TPI not high performance piece.
92-93 Good - Speed density computer not limited by MAF. Stock intake is good for high hp. Bad - non vented Opti and LT1 parts are higher in price.
94 Good - MAF good to approx 550 HP. Bit easier to tune than speed density. Flash ram so no chip changes. Stock intake is good for high hp. Quality starts getting much better. Bad - non vented Opti and LT1 parts are higher in price.
95 Good - MAF good to approx 550 HP. Bit easier to tune than speed density. Flash ram so no chip changes. Stock intake is good for high hp. Quality significantly better than 94 and earlier. Vented Opti. Bad - LT1 parts are higher in price.
96 Good - MAF good to approx 550 HP. Bit easier to tune than speed density. Flash ram so no chip changes. Stock intake is good for high hp. Quality peaks (?), vented opti. Bad - OBD2 harder to tune and more sensetive to cam. LT1 parts are higher in price. Power steering cooler removed by GM (read that somewhere recently).
Transmission choices:
6 Speed cars have the Dana 44 which is a better rearend and geared better for high performance. Downside is the $800 dual mass flywheel that cannot be resurface. Automatics get some good times with higher stall converter and you don't have to shift all the time. Auto has Dana 36 which will fall apart once you have enough torgue from converter and gears to require slicks. 700R4 seems to die at 100 - 130 K miles and costs 800+ to rebuild.
[Modified by AquaMetallic94LT1, 6:24 PM 8/26/2001]
Options:
90-91 Good - Speed density computer not limited by MAF. No opti, Heads etc cheaper than LT1. Bad - TPI not high performance piece.
92-93 Good - Speed density computer not limited by MAF. Stock intake is good for high hp. Bad - non vented Opti and LT1 parts are higher in price.
94 Good - MAF good to approx 550 HP. Bit easier to tune than speed density. Flash ram so no chip changes. Stock intake is good for high hp. Quality starts getting much better. Bad - non vented Opti and LT1 parts are higher in price.
95 Good - MAF good to approx 550 HP. Bit easier to tune than speed density. Flash ram so no chip changes. Stock intake is good for high hp. Quality significantly better than 94 and earlier. Vented Opti. Bad - LT1 parts are higher in price.
96 Good - MAF good to approx 550 HP. Bit easier to tune than speed density. Flash ram so no chip changes. Stock intake is good for high hp. Quality peaks (?), vented opti. Bad - OBD2 harder to tune and more sensetive to cam. LT1 parts are higher in price. Power steering cooler removed by GM (read that somewhere recently).
Transmission choices:
6 Speed cars have the Dana 44 which is a better rearend and geared better for high performance. Downside is the $800 dual mass flywheel that cannot be resurface. Automatics get some good times with higher stall converter and you don't have to shift all the time. Auto has Dana 36 which will fall apart once you have enough torgue from converter and gears to require slicks. 700R4 seems to die at 100 - 130 K miles and costs 800+ to rebuild.
[Modified by AquaMetallic94LT1, 6:24 PM 8/26/2001]
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (AquaMetallic94LT1)
It think 95 is probably the best choice.
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
over time you'll find that the '89 has a large following as far as handling is concerned.
a lot of autocross buffs like the suspension.
a lot of autocross buffs like the suspension.
#6
Burning Brakes
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
I am not going to TOTALLY make it a drag car or anything. I am just going to take the stock engine and make it a little better. Including better exhaust.
And I will get a new chip regardless of what year.
My whole thing was my price limit- 10-15k
I cant buy a 92-96.... they are out of my budget for what I want
And I will get a new chip regardless of what year.
My whole thing was my price limit- 10-15k
I cant buy a 92-96.... they are out of my budget for what I want
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
If you are limited to '80s then '89 is my recommendation. It has the most improved L98, best suspension, and can be had with '17" wheels. Use your Corvette Black Book to get the options lists and see what suits you. Then drive one or two to be sure it "fits".
It depends on what you mean by "hot rodding". You can get a MAF TPI system into the mid 12s and with a mini-ram into the very low 12s or even 11s on the motor, providing some drive train and meats mods too.
Of course the L98 starts with about 50HP less than the LT1 so it will take more $$ to catch up and get to your goal.
It depends on what you mean by "hot rodding". You can get a MAF TPI system into the mid 12s and with a mini-ram into the very low 12s or even 11s on the motor, providing some drive train and meats mods too.
Of course the L98 starts with about 50HP less than the LT1 so it will take more $$ to catch up and get to your goal.
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
You said 50-60k. if youre gonna redo it, why does mileage matter???
#10
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
Just get the best car you can afford.
#11
Safety Car
Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
Food for thought.
L98 + MiniRam + Exhuast + tuning + gaskets etc = LT1. or
0.00 + 750.00 + 1000.00 + 400.00 + 200.00 = 2350.00
2350 + 15000 = 17350 = Nice 92, 93 and maybe 94.
Hmmmmmm.......... :cheers:
L98 + MiniRam + Exhuast + tuning + gaskets etc = LT1. or
0.00 + 750.00 + 1000.00 + 400.00 + 200.00 = 2350.00
2350 + 15000 = 17350 = Nice 92, 93 and maybe 94.
Hmmmmmm.......... :cheers:
#12
Le Mans Master
Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Andy1983)
I'd buy the most recent and best example I could within my budget. I know that doesn't help much. If your budget is keeping you in the late eighties or early nineties, go for an 89 or 90. I don't remember which was the year for the first 6 speed.
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (91Vette)
I think the 91 is the all around best buy if you like the later C4 styling. With the 91 you get the advantage of the later C4 styling, PLUS you get the last and best L98 engine Chevy made. No opti to replace, just a standard distributor like normal V8's
As far as handling, try to find one with the Z07 option. You'd be amazed in the cornering difference between a Z07 equipped car and a car with standard suspension.
Of course....I MIGHT just be a little biased :yesnod:
As far as handling, try to find one with the Z07 option. You'd be amazed in the cornering difference between a Z07 equipped car and a car with standard suspension.
Of course....I MIGHT just be a little biased :yesnod:
#14
Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (91-Z07Coupe)
Yup...I am very biased towards the 91 L-98's. Here's the skinny......with one mod (CAM) you can have over four hundered and eight horse's at your call...(Thats 408hp). Here is where it gets better! It's all with stock intake, heads, exhaust, throttle body, etc. Now is the part where it gets WAY better! YOu still can upgrade all the other stuff and get MORE HP!!!!
But any Vette is a good vette in my Opinion!
:cheers:
But any Vette is a good vette in my Opinion!
:cheers:
#17
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Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (Mace)
stay away from the speed density cars from 90 to what ever unles after every change you want to burn a new chip i would stay with maf cars they are more forgiving and if you look on this forum i think their are more quicker l98s than lt1s here this is my 2 cents
#18
Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (CORKVETTE1)
I would look around and find a 95 if you have the time. I have found them for less than $15k(autotrader.com). I bought my 95 for $14k. Yes it needed some fixing up, but it still paid off buying one in almost perfect shape. Get a 6-speed car for the better rear end. Look for option code GM3 for the 3:45 ratio. The newer ones also have alot more safety eqipment in the cars, like dual airbag. I like safety equipment. The dash layout is also differnet, and I like the newer style. If you buy a late model C4 your car is going to be in the 13's no matter how bad you drive it. It is better to have a good starting point than try to catch up and spend lots of money doing it. It all comes down to what you like. Good luck, it's not easy, but get the color you want, I waited months to find my car, but it paid off. :cheers:
#20
Re: I am going to buy a C4... What year should I buy? (91-Z07Coupe)
I don't know the specs for your guys cams, but changing cams is the best way to gain huge amounts of power. As long as you don't have to change the springs, retainers, rockers, etc.. you can add more than 100 hp with no problem. If you guys get a chance to go to the races talk to guys who run in Stock or Super Stock. In Stock you have to run the factory cam lift, of course duration isn't stock, but these guys run way faster than the Vettes on this forum. And if you talk to the Super Stockers you better be ready. My friends 66 Nova SS with a 283 single 4 barrel runs in the mid 10's. Yes he has a huge cam, but he has low compression( like 9:1 ), stock valve sizes(1.80" intake, unlike our 1.94 or 2.00), his carb is 400 cfm carter I think, and yet he still runs at 126 mph. Valve train changes are the best way to go. Talk to the cam manufacturers and ask them for help. The cams that come stock in our cars are really small if you get into drag racing. I still laugh at my cam specs, but the car still goes. I can't wait to change the cam. It's the heart of your engine, so you can go as fast as it will let you. Good luck. :cheers: