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People have done it with the driveline intact, but most add the bleeder when they have the torque tube off for a slave cylinder or clutch job. Congratulations on your new ride!
Good to know. Thanks! Next time I get it up in the air, I'll see if I can make that happen.
The following 6 users liked this post by LiManZ06:
Bobbo76 (04-24-2024),C7ZO6 (04-23-2024),capevettes (04-24-2024),Kubs (04-23-2024),Tusc (04-23-2024),vette4fl (04-22-2024) and 1 others liked this post. (Show less...)
I’ve owned my 2000 M6 for almost a year now and have been learning a lot about the C5. Based on what I’ve been reading on this site it seems as though keeping the clutch fluid fresh is as important as changing the oil. It’s too bad GM didn’t give us any reasonable way to properly bleed the clutch fluid.
I’ve owned my 2000 M6 for almost a year now and have been learning a lot about the C5. Based on what I’ve been reading on this site it seems as though keeping the clutch fluid fresh is as important as changing the oil. It’s too bad GM didn’t give us any reasonable way to properly bleed the clutch fluid.
It only really seems to rear its ugly head if you're drag racing and doing really aggressive shifting; normal shifting in street (or DEs/autocross) the problem comes up much less often. Does it get really dirty? Sure. Is it better to have clean fluid? Sure. Does it make a functional difference in normal ops? Not very often.
Now, add power to the mix, etc. and all bets are off. And, yes, put in a remote bleeder when the opportunity offers itself.
Between kids sports, church events, etc. it took about 10hours this weekend to pull and rebuild the torque tube and replace the clutch. Last night I got all the fluids changed and went for a test drive. No more bad vibration and everything seems to be working well. Still left on the list is to check the corner balance and alignment, and make sure the trailer is ready since I haven't even looked at it since October, lol.
Between kids sports, church events, etc. it took about 10hours this weekend to pull and rebuild the torque tube and replace the clutch. Last night I got all the fluids changed and went for a test drive. No more bad vibration and everything seems to be working well. Still left on the list is to check the corner balance and alignment, and make sure the trailer is ready since I haven't even looked at it since October, lol.
I got the car last Wednesday, so I'm just taking care of little things as I learn. The remote bleeder is definitely high on the list. It doesn't sound like the slave is accessible to install the fitting for the remote bleed unless the exhaust is off the car. Is that correct?
I first added a remote bleeder without pulling the drivetrain on my car, and it was not that bad. Not a lot of room to rotate tools but it can be done. The exhaust does have to come out, but its easy to remove.
To add to what @Kubs shared, the Katech remote bleeder might be the only (or at least best) option that can be installed with the drivetrain intact. Definitely need to drop the midpipes and clutch inspection cover, and it's a tedious job with low clearance. Not difficult but very trying of your patience.
To add to what @Kubs shared, the Katech remote bleeder might be the only (or at least best) option that can be installed with the drivetrain intact. Definitely need to drop the midpipes and clutch inspection cover, and it's a tedious job with low clearance. Not difficult but very trying of your patience.
Yeah thats the one that I put in without removing the drivetrain, Katech. Its pricey but it worked out better logistically I think.
Plugging away on putting her back together. Got the intake, tb, belt, passenger side exhaust, dipstick 9000, generator, and coils mounted. Having a beer. 🍺
Had a track day about 10 days ago. Bumped up to the next group because I was tired of getting stuck behind slow cars. Hung on pretty well, but there's still room for improvement and I get absolutely gapped on the straights by everything that has more power. Really drove the **** out of it every session, the driver's side splitter puck will have to be replaced soon. I think it's about an inch off the ground in this pic.
Since I now have a new exhaust, it was finally time to get to work on my transmission cooler setup (about a year after I started collecting parts!). Finished mounting up the cooler last night. Now I just have to figure out all the line routing and running wiring. Hopefully I'll get that done next week. Might fab up a little fender liner extension for the front to provide some additional protection from junk that gets kicked up from the tire.
She’s done, running, driving. The new LS7 lifters were noisy at first but quieted down some after the engine warmed up. I should say they are quieter than the Comp Cams lifters, but noisier than the original stock setup. I’ve never heard noisy lifters on a hydraulic cam before, so this is surprising for me. Somewhat disappointed as it is not a fun sound.
I have been told that it’s the nature of having a cam with steeper ramps. If that can be solved with less lift, or a different ramp design, I will consider a change. On the plus side, the engine fired up immediately, and was happy to blow the tires loose on a quick stab rolling in first gear. No leaks observed. Yay.
The steering still sucks. I tried a different fluid, Mercon, which has a horrible smell by the way, and no improvement. This is a bit perplexing, but on the other hand I have the cleanest power steering fluid on the block. I may just have to hand this problem off to a pro.
The steering still sucks. I tried a different fluid, Mercon, which has a horrible smell by the way, and no improvement. This is a bit perplexing, but on the other hand I have the cleanest power steering fluid on the block. I may just have to hand this problem off to a pro.
I went back about 4 pages and didn't see what problem you're having. Assuming you have air in the system (drove me crazy when I had to replace the rack), I finally got it bled by making a nice easy pull up to about 5k rpm (I used an on-ramp up to about 70 mph to keep the revs up for a decent duration), and that did the trick.
IDK if this is your problem or not, but just a guess.
I went back about 4 pages and didn't see what problem you're having. Assuming you have air in the system (drove me crazy when I had to replace the rack), I finally got it bled by making a nice easy pull up to about 5k rpm (I used an on-ramp up to about 70 mph to keep the revs up for a decent duration), and that did the trick.
IDK if this is your problem or not, but just a guess.
Have a good one,
Mike
Now that you mention it, I do recall that solution. On the one hand all I know is that it feels like no power steering at low speeds, but I have no clue as to the cause. On the other hand a 5k rpm blast up an on-ramp sounds like a great idea on general principle alone!
04-22-2024, 10:38 PM
