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Differences between 90', 91' and 95' ZR-1s and Engines
Differences between 90', 91' and 95' ZR-1s and Engines
1. Injector Housings (IH). 91' IH can be used on 90' Heads if you restrict two Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) ports. A. The 90' Heads have unrestricted 3/4 inch PCV ports on each head with the 91' and later Heads having PCV Restrictions. B. The 90' Injector Housings Have the PCV Restrictions and the 91' and later Injector Housings have very large unrestricted PCV ports. PCV Differences between 90 and 91 Injector Housings The opposite (using 90' IH on 91' and later Heads) appears to NOT be an issue in accordance with Paul Workman) (edited slightly for clarity).
Originally Posted by Paul Workman
(Post 231121)
Installing a 92'(?) head under my 90' IH results in a double PCV restriction; (The smaller PCV port in the 90' IH, and the smaller PCV Port in the later model (91' and later) Head). I thought about it at the time and decided there was no issue with the redundancy. For 5+ years and 20K miles, it hasn't mattered, far as I can tell.
Three Dorman 550-013 plugs (two plugs drilled 7/32) were used to restrict IH PVC ports of the 91' IH (90' Heads do not have the PCV restriction). Adapting 91' IH to 90' Heads (item #6) TIPS https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd9fbb3653.jpg 2. Plenums (90', 91', 95'). The 90' charcoal canister Purge vacuum comes from front under Plenum vacuum port pointed to drivers side connected to the charcoal canister under the Drivers Side head light. The 91' Charcoal Canister Purge vacuum comes from front under Plenum port pointed toward rear under Plenum and out rear passenger side of plenum making vacuum fittings a bit different. The Charcoal Canister for 91' is behind the passenger side rear wheel. 90' Plenum........................................ ................................91' Plenum with TB Coolant Blocked https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...50625a8cc2.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd3a6fa304.jpg With these minor differences between the 90' and 91' I have been able to mix almost anything with a little engine-uity. :D Also have 95' and a 95' crate engine so have 90', 91', 95' for any one needing Photos. 95' we have EGR connection on passenger side of Plenum which is an added feature (I think on 93'). 95 EGR........................................ ....................................91 PCV and Purge Vacuum Connections https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...12acd7e34e.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e3e7bbc1ef.jpg 95' Engine showing EGR on Plenum...........................91' Purge Solenoid for charcoal canister under Plenum https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d5ed276e35.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ebb645f89.jpg All 95' cars have the Dunn heads on the left side: #10225121 This 95' has the Dunn head on the right side also: #10225122 Other differences in the 95' compared to the 90'/91' include: 1. EGR installed from Plenum to passenger side exhaust (SW has that connection on exhaust). 2. Drivers Side Exhaust connection to the Headers. 3. Only one Throttle Cable. 4. Security....Key Fob in Pocket will automatically Lock Doors as you move away from ZR-1. 5. Security....Key Fob in Pocket will automatically Open Doors as you approach ZR-1. 6. Radiator Plastic Drain Valve (still have not figured out how it functions). 7. Seat Control Selector (Drivers or Passenger Seat) on passenger side of console and Seat Control on Drivers Side of Console. 8. Jack is Stored in bottom of Storage behind Passenger Seat. 9. No Storage Area behind Drivers Seat. 10. No Glove Box. 11. Climate Control Trim Redesigned. 12. Gauges have changes in Appearance. 13. Jack Handle stored behind Drivers Seat. 14. Blue Label Transmission (albeit I have a Blue Label Transmission installed in my 91'). 15. Seats are Re-Designed. 16. ALDL Plug is different. 17. Valley Drain under Starter is much larger on 95' and the tube between Bell Housing and oil pan is eliminated. 18. Injector Housings are different having the primary and secondary injector ports the same size (the same "O" ring). 19. The Primary and Secondary Injectors all take the same "O" ring but have a different colored band (white and blue). 20. On the 95' there exists a vacuum line connected in front of the DIS along with the three electrical connectors. 21. GAUGES will give you Digital Coolant Temperature and Digital Oil temperature in deg F shown on the Speedometer Readout. 22. The Fuse Panel for the 95' includes all fuses whereas the 91' fuse panel has less fuses on the passenger side door panel with additional fuses located under the Passenger Side Hush Panel. 23. The 95' seats are considerably different than the earlier 90'-91' seats (A bit more flimsy looking but more comfortable). And the 95' seats do not have that arm on door Side of the seat that I keep sitting on getting into and out of the Z. 24. Oil Pans have different bolt patterns on front. 25. Manifold Differential Pressure moved from under ECM (90-91) to under Plenum (93-95). 26. Marc Haibeck Description of SIR Code Variances 1990-1995 ZR-1s 1995 Plenum. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...58162c4ee2.jpg 3. A 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 Vacuum System including the differences in the Charcoal Canister Purge Vacuum. There are two vacuum connectors under the front of the 90' Plenum that support the Charcoal Canister under the 90 drivers side head light. The major Charcoal Canister Purge Vacuum port points straight out on the drivers side front of the Plenum and is connected to the Charcoal Canister under the Drivers Side Headlight. The smaller single vacuum port on the Air Horn pointing back under TB on 90' is for vapor Canister Control and which vacuum line is connected to the Charcoal Vapor Canister control valve #13 under the Drivers Side Headlight (on the 90'). The smaller single vacuum port on the Air Horn pointing back under TB on 90' https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...411408d582.jpg On the 91' The Vapor Canister control valve #13 exists on the charcoal canister located behind the Passenger Side Rear Wheel. This Vapor Canister Control Valve does not require a separate vacuum source other than the major Charcoal Canister Purge vacuum provided from the port on the drivers side front of the Plenum facing rearward just under the PCV connector. This Major Charcoal Canister Vacuum source on the 91' is connected to the Charcoal Canister Purge Vacuum Solenoid located under the Plenum on the 91' and from there connected to the Charcoal Canister behind the Passenger Side Rear Wheel. Larger Vacuum System Schematics for the 90' and 91' are shown in item #5 below. 90' purge vacuum control valve (#13) has additional .....91' purge vacuum control valve (#13) additional vacuum source from Air Horn........................................ ...vacuum line eliminated from Air Horn https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a261da0b0.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c3593b299.jpg 90' has NO Charcoal Canister Vacuum Lines or ..........91' has Charcoal Canister Purge Solenoid and Purge Solenoid Under Plenum ...................................Vacuum Lines located Under Plenum https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3d3f8b9a2b.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...159fa67f9b.jpg 4. Coolant Manifold Differences between 90' and 91' Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds have fillet weld of coolant pipe into manifold on 90'. The 91' coolant pipes lack the large fillet weld. This difference is not prohibitive in any way except for appearance and 90'/91' Coolant Manifolds can be mixed on the same engine. 90' Coolant Manifold........................................ ................................91' Coolant Manifold https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...90d1941c56.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9d06c97564.jpg 5. A 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 can have identical Modifications with the IH and Plenum minor differences. A 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 can have identical Throttle Body (TB) Coolant Blocking and other Modifications even though the IH and Plenums may have minor differences as described above. Both the 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 have identical Oil Catch Cans installed, George Braml SS Air Box, SW Offroad Headers and Exhaust, Throttle Body Coolant Blocking, and Eliminated Air Induction. Both have Carter Bling :thumbs: 1990 LT5 and 1990 Vacuum System https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c88afa85ad.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a261da0b0.jpg 1991 LT5 and 1991 Vacuum System https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3b1710637f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c3593b299.jpg 6. Electrical Fuses differences. A. 1990 Primary and Auxiliary Fuse Panel. The Primary Fuse Panel is located on the passenger side to the right of the glove box and can be accessed by opening the passenger side door. The Auxiliary Fuse Panels are located under the passenger side dash. Remove the hush panel two screws (7mm heads near front of black plastic hush panel and one 7mm head screw located inside the passenger side Primary Fuse Panel Cover). The Primary Fuse Panel Cover frame has three screws (either Torx (91') or 7mm hex head (90')). https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1f280f2236.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cf9187a270.jpg B. 1995 Fuse Panel. The Fuse Panel is located on the passenger side to the right of the glove box and can be accessed by opening the passenger side door. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5aeca82626.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1b85217481.jpg 7. Seats, Glove box, and CDM differences. The Seats on the 95' seem a bit cheaper but are very comfortable. The 95' has no Glove Box and associated with that there is no CDM under the Glove Box. The CDM on the 95' is easy to get to behind the passenger seat sitting next to the jack in the compartment. Last UPDATE of post 101 Mar, 2018 |
Solutions
-Solutions- A. Acronyms are often used we are not familiar with...... 1. See Complete Automotive Acronym List Acronyms B. Using Forum Albums for Posting Photos. Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Creating Reference Links Using Forum Photo Albums……Resizing photos C. Organization Of Solutions. Post 102 to Post 110 includes an Index (Solutions) for all issues related to the C4 ZR1 with LT5 engine as well as the C4 Corvette with L98 engine. The eight posts are orgainzed by category. The Posts References are all shown as clickable Link Names with those posts associated with the C4 Corvette (L98) starting with the word L98. All other posts refer to the ZR1 (LT5). OVERVIEW Post 102. SOLUTIONS Overview and Ebay Searches Post 103. ZR1 General Post 104. ZR1 Electrical Post 105. ZR1 Engine Post 106. ZR1 Drive Train Post 107. Awesome Post 108. ZR1 Engine Fuel, Lubrication, Cooling, and Exhaust Post 109. ZR1 Specifications, Restorations, Air, Audio, Lifts, and Road Trips Post 110. ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics Post 111. ZR-1 ALDL and associated Codes All Link references under each HEADING are presently being upgraded to include many technical posts within the archives of the Corvette Forum (Specifically the C4 ZR1 Discussion Section). 1. -Solutions- Index Posts are Organization by Function. Engine HEADINGS are arranged from front to back and top to bottom and Drive Train HEADINGS are arranged from Bell Housing to Differential to Wheels for example. 2. All Key instructions/suggestions (TIPS) are listed in Red under each Heading. 3. ALL VIDEO is listed in RED before Polls and TIPS. 4. Links to Off Forum Information Web Sites are listed in Bold Dark Orange. 5. Links to Corvette Forum Technical Posts and all Calculation Methods are listed in Bold Blue. 6. Occasionally better or more descriptive Solutions appear in new posts which will replace old Solutions in this index. Occasionally new Solutions are found in old archives which will be added to the -Solutions- index. The latest date of updates for each of the 8 -Solutions- posts can be found at the bottom of each post including this post. 7. All posts referenced in -Solutions- are open posts wherein once directed to that post you can scan the entire thread forward or backward as you like. A few Solutions references will take you to the beginning of a thread if the Solution is a process such as a restoration. 8. All professional service sources , all sources of parts, all Calculation Methods, all Ebay searches for parts, and all sources of lubricants are listed last in Dark Green under each Heading. D. HOW TO CREATE (Links, Photos, Videos, Messages, Posts) Photobucket issues Using Forum (ZR1 Net Registry) Albums for Posted Photos TIPS Registry Forum Albums TIPS How to Post Photos TIPS Old Forum Link TIPS Creating Albums and Hosting Post Photos TIPS Using Albums on various Forums to Host and Post Photos TIPS Creating Albums on various Forums TIPS Converting Pixels to Inches Creating 3D images Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Creating Reference Links Link Name Signatures Creating Reference Links Posting References and Link Photos How to get to old links Using ImageShack Using Photobucket Using PutFile How to post a video Instant message Random images Show Car Displays If you insert a picture in a Post on this forum as cited above using photobucket and then change your photobucket picture title in any way or delete that picture in photobucket, the picture will also be deleted in the forum Post you pasted it in. Most of the pictures cited in this index have been copied just in case. E. SUMMARY Ebay Searches Ebay Corvette Electrical Section 8A Ebay Corvette Ignition Key Ebay radiator Comb Ebay LT5 2902 engine mounts Ebay LT5 2713 engine mounts Ebay LT5 PVC CV913C Ebay LT5 PVC CV769C Ebay LT5 Plug wires Ebay LT5 Service Manual Ebay LT5 Thermostat Ebay LT5 Water pump Ebay Power Antenna Mast Ebay ZR1 Bosch 69225 Fuel Pumps Ebay ZR1 LT5 Ebay ZR1 LT5 Chain Ebay ZR1 LT5 Belt Ebay ZR1 LT5 Bolts Ebay ZR1 LT5 Engine Ebay ZR1 LT5 Gaskets Ebay ZR1 LT5 Plenum Ebay ZR1 LT5 Secondary Ebay ZR1 LT5 Throttle Body Ebay ZR1 Alternator Ebay ZR1 Bose Ebay ZR1 Brake Pads Ebay ZR1 Cat Back Exhaust Ebay ZR1 Clutch Cylinder Ebay ZR1 Coolant Ebay ZR1 Corvette Clutch Ebay ZR1 Radiator Ebay ZR1 Spark Plugs Ebay ZR1 Starter Ebay Autometer 2343 The Ebay search terms are defined to maximize Ebay searches for parts. The Ebay searches located within some Headings in Solutions will allow you to go directly from a specific Heading in Solutions to the related parts search on Ebay. The Ebay search is current and will show the most recent ZR1/LT5 parts available on Ebay. PARTS PHOTOS AND ESTIMATED VALUE Part Estimated Value Post 310 - Parts Estimated Value Last UPDATE of post 102 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Electronics
ZR1 Electronics TRY THESE FIRST Check NO START Fuel or Electrical Issue INFL REST Electrical Connector Tools TIPS Prom Chart TIPS HVAC Diagnostic Codes TIPS Removing the instrument Cluster TIPS Trailering a ZR1 TIPS HVAC Display Parameters TIPS 1991 ZR1 brochure 1990 ZR1 brochure Plugs, Clutches, Other Troubleshooting LT5 ZR1 as a daily driver ZR1 Brochures ZR1 reliability LT5 Block numbers SOLVING GENERAL TECHNICAL ISSUES Tech1 TIPS ALDL Error Code Flasher/Eraser TIPS TPS Voltage Tips Engine Hesitation with Haibeck Chip TIPS Marc Haibeck on LT5 Eliminated Secondaries and Associated Anomalies Check Secondary Operation with Plenum Tipped Up TIPS HVAC Codes TIPS No Start TIPS Central Control Module Diagnostics TIPS Developing miss Cutting out under load Slight miss Engine noise Full power stumble BATTERY AND CHARGING Battery poll Tipping the Plenum to Remove Alternator Alternator Replacement without Pulling Plenum TIPS Alternator TIPS The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS Quality Power Alternators TIPS Alternator Rubber Boot Replace TIPS How To Replace Battery TIP Battery Connection Wrench TIP Belt Tensioner Pulley Serpentine Belt Path Replacing Battery Cable Bolts Replacing An Alternator SYS light flashing Roll start Removing alternator Ebay ZR1 Alternator Ebay ZR1 LT5 Belt ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS Manifold Pressure Differential TIPS ECM Pin Connections Failed TIPS AC Delco Connectors TIPS Weatherpack Connectors TIPS No Start Gauge Fuse TIPS Cluster Identification TIPS Window and AC Switch Connections TIPS Cleaning Two Engine Block Ground Connections TIPS Maintaining the Engine Block Ground Connections TIPS Ground Connections TIPS Engine Relays TIPS Secondary Injector Drivers TIPS Wire size capacity chart Sensor connectors TIPS Fuses (1991) Weatherpack connectors Tachometer Wire Sources of connectors ECM (90') pin diagram Instrument panel wiring 90' KEYLESS ENTRY, TACHOMETER, CRUISE VKE-1000 system TIPS VKE-1000 system Installation TIPS Cruise Control Vacuum Release TIPS Cruise Control Vacuum TIPS Tachometer Calibration TIPS Instrument Cluster Differences Use of Trim Pot for Tachometer Calibration TIPS Keyless Entry TIPS Tachometer repair Cruise control diagram IGNITION Power Key Rebuild TIPS CMHSL LED, Full Power Key and Alternator Pulley Secondary Injector Relays TIPS DIS Diagnostics TIPS Ignition System Modifications TIPS Ignition Module Connections TIPS Defeating VATS TIPS Injector Fuse Pinched TIPS No Start DIS Plug Ins TIPS DIS Prototype TIPS VATS Ignition Key VATS Time Delay Ignition module location VATS gotcha Full power switch malfunction Full power switch repair/replace Power key rebuild Anti-theft Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) DIS module correct grease What is DIS LT5 ignition system questions Secondary Relay Discussion COILS & PLUGS Antiseize on Spark Plugs TIPS Plug condition Spark Plug Thread Chaser TIPS Coils TIPS Coil Base TIPS Using Timing Light To Check Coils TIPS Waste Spark Ignition TIPS Spark Plug Wire Separators TIPS Weak spark Testing coils Spark plug wire routing Removing #8 Ebay ZR1 Spark Plugs STARTER Diagnosing Starter No Start Electrical Circuit Deterioration Explained Starting Bench Testing TIPS Starting System Schematics TIPS Relay Locations TIPS No Start Gauge Fuse TIPS No Start Diagnostics TIPS Starter Enable Relay TIPS Starter Enable Relay Part Number TIPS Starter Clutch Safety Switch TIPS Intermittent No Start TIPS Starter Electrical Connections TIPS Starter Solenoid TIPS Starter relay modification TIPS Hold starter longer to prevent backfire TIPS Starter Solenoid Rebuild TIPS Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks Clutch Start Switch Linkage No Start Clutch Switch Linkage No start No start cure Starting issues Ebay ZR1 Starter LIGHTS Electric Window Switch Lights TIPS Headlight Motor Aluminum Gear TIPS Installing HID Driving Lights TIPS Installing HID Fog Lights TIPS Headlight door motor bushings Headlight motor gear box Backup Tail Light Switch CMHSL LED install on my ZR-1 HID Install HID Tail Lights Headlight Motor Clicking Euro Tail Lights Install HID Head Lights CHMSL LED Installing CHMSL LED CHMSL switch CHMSL Wag Back up lights conversion to 50W SENSORS ALDL Fault Codes TIPS ALDL Fault Code Erasing TIPS INFL REST Connectors Inside Car TIPS INFL REST Codes TIPS Upgraded INFL REST Code Clearing TIPS Changing the Passenger Side O2 Sensor TIPS Using Tech 1 TIPS Service Bulletin for SIR TIPS MAP Sensor Hose Fix TIPS Crankshaft Sensor Testing TIPS Oil Level Sensor TIPS INFL REST FIX TIPS INFLREST" and "SEATBELT Trouble Lights Crank shaft position (93' no start) EVAP Purge Solenoid MAP sensor/hose location 90' MAP sensor hose disconnected Knock sensor testing Knock sensor TPS voltage reading Throttle position sensor voltage Replacing O2 sensors O2 sensor with SW headers CCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes TIPS Marc Haibeck code reading Central Control Module Diagnostics TIPS What is the CCM Reading CCM codes paper clip CCM Code 54 CCM interchangeability Inflatable Restraint diagnostics SRC Marc Haibeck code reading SRC Codes and Clearing SRC TIPS Service Ride Control codes TIPS ABS codes TIPS ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes TIPS GM Trouble Code Info TIPS Marc Haibeck code reading Closed Loop and Open Loop TIPS ECM Interchangeability TIPS ALDL Pin Out TIPS Electronic Control Module Schematic TIPS Electronic Control Module P/Ns TIPS Electronic Control Module Codes TIPS ECM Repair TIPS GM codes Fuel Trim and Closed/Open Loop Operation ECM Chip and Other Electrical Connectors ZR1 ECM CODES 1990 TO 1992 ECM (90') plug pins printout Reading ECM codes paper clip ALDL plug ECM Repairs ECMs and sensors ECM MODIFICATIONS Megasquirt Manual Megasquirt Chip poll Identification of Stock Chips TIPS Interchangeability of Chips in ECMs TIPS Prom tuning guide Chip Removal Chips Tuning LS1 (411) PCM swap Marc Haibeck (Performance) DIAGNOSING ECM CODES Using Tech 1 TIPS ALDL Error Code Flasher/Eraser TIPS Marc Haibeck code reading Clearing Codes Codes Code 9 Low freon Code 12 normal Code 16 DIS system fault Code 21 Throttle position Code 23 Vehicle speed Code 24 Speed sensor Code 31 Cam sensor Code 32 EGR Code 33 MAP sensor hose Code 41 ECM/CCM error Code 41 Bad ECM Code 41 ECM Troubleshooting Code 42 Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Code 43 knock sensor Code 44 Oxygen Sensor (Left Bank Lean) Code 45 Oxygen Sensor (Left Bank Rich) See ECM Code #52 Item #3. ZR1 ECM CODES 1990- Code 55 Lean 02 Code 56 Vacuum pump Code 61 Vacuum/MAP sensors Code 61 secondary vac solenoid Code 63 Oxygen sensor Code 63 Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Open Code 64 Right Oxygen Sensor (Right Bank Lean) Code 65 Right Oxygen Sensor (Right Bank Rich) Last UPDATE of post 104 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Engine
Post 4 - ZR1 Engine FRONT COVER AND TIMING CHAINS Belt Tensioner Failures Rebuilding the Belt Tensioner TIPS Front cover shaft seal installation Installing Serpentine Belt Timing chain guide LH picture Timing chains and guides installed Chain guide replacement Timing chain, sprockets and guides Timing chain failure Timing Chain failure explained TORSIONAL DAMPENER Belt Tensioner Pulley TIPS Rebuilding Belt Tensioner Pulley TIPS Harmonic Balancer Failure TIPS Harmonic Balancer Pin Pulling Tool ATI torsional dampener Serpentine belt ENGINE LT5 engine Dipstick Restored running engine VIDEO Top End Gaskets Differences between 90', 91' and 95' Crate Engine Plenums and IHs TIPS LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations TIPS Rebuilt exchange engines TIPS Tech Info - LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5 New Rebuild Issues LT5 Block (375 vrs 405) Engine mounts Engine mount heat shields LT5 assembly project Block tear down Crankcase ventilation cover Brake Mean Effective Pressure Engine cleaning Ebay ZR1 LT5 Engine ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Jacking engine TIPS Engine removal sequence pictures Engine Installation Engine removal Engine mounts Replacing motor mount covers First engine pull Engine Removal HEADS LT5 Heads TIPS LT5 Valve and Head Reconditioning TIPS Piston CC TIPS Pulling the Engine for Head Work TIPS Birmal or Dunn heads Birmal and Dunn Heads Compression tests Header stud oil leak VALVES AND LIFTERS LT5 Valve and Head Reconditioning TIPS Lifters Resurfacing TIPS Lifters TIPS Tech Info - LT5 New Rebuild Issues (Lifters, Camshafts, and Valves) Lifters Valve Stem Clearance Measurement Tool Valve Stem Clearance Measurements For Regrind Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifter Valve Stem Clearance Measurements For Stock Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters L98 Valve Adjustment JB2236 THROTTLE BODY AND AIR INTAKE Air Filter Installation Idle Air Screw TIPS Air Idle Adjustment TIPS Throttle Position Sensor Diagnoses TIPS TB Photos TIPS TB Coolant Discussion TIPS TB Stuck at WOT TIPS Low Idle Speed TIPS Idle Air Control (IAC) cleaning TIPS Stainless Steel Air Box and Air Filter (L98 and LT5) Throttle Body TPS connector tool Throttle Body Blades Sticking Throttle body issues Throttle body adjustment (with ASR) TPS Adjustment Cruise Control Function Issues Ebay ZR1 LT5 Throttle Body PLENUM Push Connect Flare Fittings TIPS Eliminating EGR on 93'-95' LT5s TIPS Difference between 90' and Later Plenums TIPS The 10 Minute Plenum Removal TIPS Removing Pressed In Fittings from Plenum TIPS Removing The Plenum to Change Fuel Injectors TIPS Plenum pull TIPS Plenum Removal Simplified TIPS LT5 IH, Fuel Rails, Plenum Install Tricks Under the Plenum TIPS Removing Plenum (including the 10 minute Plenum Removal) Plenum pull questons Plenum pull tools and parts Plenum pull parts Under the plenum Plenum bolts install INJECTOR HOUSING Injector housing coolant manifold removal (heat) TIPS Adapting 91' IH to 90' Heads (item #6) TIPS Injector and Secondary failure signs TIPS Coolant Temperature Sensors TIPS 91 Injector Housing modifications for 90 Heads TIPS Secondary actuator check pdf PCV Differences between 90 and 91 Injector Housings Non operating secondaries Oil in injector housing Oil catch can source INJECTORS Changing Fuel Injectors TIPS Bad injector/burnt valves TIPS Secondary Injector Drivers TIPS Checking Injector Resistance with Plenum in Place TIPS RC Injectors Fuel injector testing electrical Fuel injector testing pressurized Bad injectors SECONDARIES Secondary Injector Relays TIPS Having an Operational Secondary Full Power Switch TIPS What Conditions Allow/Cause Secondaries to Open TIPS Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators TIPS Secondary Failure at 5K rpm Removing Secondary Shafts Engine In Car TIPS Secondary Canister Installation FACTS TIPS Removing Secondaries TIPS Removing Secondary Vacuum System Questions TIPS Secondary Canister Installation TIPS Secondary Removal TIPS Secondary actuator operation VIDEO Secondary Vacuum Reservoir Source TIPS Secondary port vacuum diagnosis TIPS Eliminated Secondary Throttles/shafts Tricks Secondary vaccum system removal Secondaries removed picture Remove secondary throttle plates and shafts Dorman plug for removed secondary throttle shafts Secondary failure Upsidedown Secondaries Secondary cannister failure Ebay ZR1 LT5 Secondary VACUUM SYSTEM New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System Vacuum Pump Fuse TIPS Vacuum Systems 90' and 91' (Secondary and Cruize/HVAC) TIPS Checking for Vacuum Leaks TIPS Failed Vacuum Check Valve TIPS Finding Vacuum Leak TIPS Condition of Secondary Vacuum System TIPS Vacuum Pump Taken Apart TIPS Differential Pressure Switch Function TIPS Secondary Vacuum Removal TIPS HVAC, Brake Booster, and Purge Vacuum Leaks TIPS Secondary Vacuum Reservoir Source TIPS Vacuum testing Secondary port vacuum diagnosis Secondary diagnosis Vacuum solenoid Cruise Control Vacuum Cruise Control Inoperable Diagnostics Secondary vacuum diagram Vacuum pump malfunction Non operating secondaries Vacuum pump vendor Vacuum solenoid conversion Check valve under plenum CAM COVERS Removing and Painting Cam Covers TIPS Removing Cam Cover Bolts the Hard Way TIPS Chain guide maintenance TIPS Ticking Sound Under The Cam Covers TIPS Cam Cover Filters Cam Cover Installation Tricks Removing cam cover bolts Cam cover bolt removal tools Cam cover dowty washers Cam cover sealant A136 CAMSHAFT Leaky Camshaft Sensor Twisted Camshaft Valve Stem Clearance Measurements Camshaft Timing Rookie Camshaft Installation Camshaft Regrinds, Lifters, Valves, and Camshaft Timing Camshaft Sensor TIPS Cam position sensor oil leak Camshaft follower design Camshaft timing tools Custom cams Camshaft plugs Reground camshafts (2500 miles) Regrind camshafts Camshaft specs CAMSHAFT BOLTS, CLAMPS, RETAINERS Installing camshaft bolts TIPS Camshaft Sprocket Bolts TIPS Camshaft Billet Retainers TIPS Camshaft replacement retainers Locking down the camshaft bolts CHAIN TENSIONERS AND GUIDES Chain Guide Replacement TIPS Upper Chain Guide Failures TIPS Secondary Chain Guide Rattle TIPS Timing Chain Guide Wear TIPS Resetting timing chain tensioner TIPS Secondary Chain Guide Rattle TIPS PCV system and Timing Chain Wear Strips Installing chain guides Always reset chain tensioners Chain tensioner unloader Updated chain tensioner RH Camshaft chain guide wear Timing chain guide bolts New style chain tensioner RH Chain Tensioner housing Upgraded chain tensioner housing impressions Chain guide wear strips Upgraded RH chain tensioner housing CAMSHAFT TIMING USING PINS Camshaft timing event picture CAMSHAFT TIMING USING DEGREE WHEEL Camshaft timing TIPS Dial gage holder TIPS LT5 Camshaft Specifications and Camshaft Timing Tricks Camshaft Timing Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing from Start to Finish Tech Info - LT5 Timing Diagrams Tech Info - LT5 Camshaft Timing and Timing Chain Calculations Setting/Installing the Chain Tensioners and Timing Chain Tricks Camshaft timing optimum deg Cam timing First attempt at camshaft timing ENGINE LOWER END Lower End Rebuild TIPS Lower End Bolt Torque TIPS Lower End Basics TIPS Reuse of Main Bearing Cap Bolts TIPS Engine Liners Priming Lubrication System Rebuilding Lower End Connecting Rods Main Bearing Cap Bolts Last UPDATE of post 4 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Drive Train
ZR1 Drive Train FLYWHEEL Flywheel poll Duel Mass Flywheel Installation Aluminum Flywheel HP Gains are Dynamic Only TIPS Dynamic HP TIPS Flywheel Trim Weights TIPS Replacing Trim Weights in DMFW Fidanza and Components Flywheel check Fidanza (flywheel/clutch plate) Unsprung clutch with Fidanza Sprung clutch with Fidanza Pressure plate bolts Pressure plate bolt guide Dual mass flywheel purpose Balancing New Flywheel balancing CLUTCH Clutch Hydraulic Line Clutch Plate TIPS Clutch Switch TIPS RAM Clutch Review TIPS Clutch Fork Pivot Stud Allen Head Size TIPS Clutch Kit TIPS Clutch Fork Failure Issues TIPS Clutch Fork Clutch FAQ Clutch Start Switch Clutch Start Switch Modifications Using a L98 Pressure Plate on an LT5 Clutch pressure plate wear pattern Clutch replacement issues Carolina Stage 2 Spec stage 3 & sprung hub Spec stage 3 picture Clutch safety switch Clutch switch bypass Correct Center Force clutch disc Unsprung clutch with roller bearing Pilot Clutch hydraulic hose restriction Power Torque Systems Ebay ZR1 Corvette Clutch CLUTCH MASTER/SLAVE Clutch slave issues Clutch Master Cylinder Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Rebuild TIPS Clutch Fluid Contaminated TIPS Getting the Air Out of the Clutch Hydraulics TIPS Master/slave replacement Bleeding the clutch slave Power Torque Systems Ebay ZR1 Clutch Cylinder TRANSMISSION Rockland Standard Gear Throwout Bearing and Pilot Bearing TIPS Pilot Bearing Failure TIPS Removing Transmission Plugs TIPS Zf S6-40 Parts TIPS Pilot Bearing Depth TIPS Rebuild or Replace TIPS Speeds At Shift Points TIPS Speeds At RPMs TIPS Throwout Bearing Source TIPS Transmission Fill/Drain Plug Source TIPS Transmission Removal/Install TIPS ZF S6-40 Transmission specifications Pilot Bearing ZR-1 Transmission Install and Lift Tricks Vibration Issues Diagnosis Throwout Bearings C4 beam plates Reverse Lamp Switch ZFdoc and Reverse Gear Siezures ZF S6-40 Transimission pictures Transmission install locater pins Allen wrench for fill plugs ZF Shifter modifications Shift light Shift light install Gear rattle Pilot bearing replace Pilot bearing removal tool Shift light ZF Doc (Transmission) TRANSMISSION OIL Zf S6-40 Oil TIPS Castrol Edge Comparisons TIPS Castrol TWS 10W-60 (Transmission) DRIVE SHAFT (INCLUDING HALF SHAFT) Sharp Clicking Rear Axle Half Shaft U-Joints TIPS Universal Joints TIPS Rear Spline Rust TIPS C4 Beam Plates TIPS Align drive train TIPS Align drive train sketch TIPS Align "C" Beam TIPS Half Shaft TIPS Universal Joints Source Loose Axle Nuts Driveshaft vibration "C" Beam removal and install "C" Beam removal pictures C4 Beam Plates explained Half shaft noise U-Joints C4 Beam Plates DIFFERENTIAL Clutch and Differential Upgrade TIPS Differential Gear Ratio TIPS Jeep D44 4.10 Gears LT5 Added Systems (Differential Case Drain) Clicking and rust on Spindle Shaft TIPS LT5 Engine and Differential Lubrication Discussion TIPS Dana 44HD TIPS Going from 3:45 to 4:10 Differential Differential case drain Less intrusive differential case drain Differential removal Differential fluid change 4.10 gears pictures Viper gears Viper Parts Dana 44 WHEELS Wheels C4 Corvette Wheel Information TIPS Advanced Street Alignment TIPS Front End Alignment TIPS A-Mold Identification TIPS Rear Axle Nut Torque TIPS Reproduction wheel issues TIPS Toe, caster, camber TIPS Wheel Repair TIPS Wheel Bearings TIPS Wheel Technical Information Wheel Rim modifications Wheel spacers Corvette alignment specifications Dymag wheels Rear wheel bearing removal Rear wheel bearing Wheel alignment street 89-93 Wheel Toe in Adjusting rear wheel Camber & Toe In Aftermarket Wheel considerations Wheel Offset Calculator Ebay ZR1 SKF BR930024 Rear Wheel Hub & Bearing TIRES Tire Dimensions ASR 92'-95' TIPS Original Tire Pressure Gauge TIPS Tire Pressure Gauge TIPS Nitto Drag Radials Usage TIPS Tires and Selective Ride Control 315 vrs 335 What is ASR Tire sensor Tires Drag Radial test AFS Wheels Discount Tire BRAKES C4 ABS TIPS Brake Pad TIPS Rebuilt Master Brake Cylinders TIPS Brake System Myths TIPS LT5 Final Inspection including Brake Tricks ABS Code - Definition ABS relay (89'-91' Zs) modification Rear caliper rebuild Caliper rebuild part numbers ABS light on ABS system Brake fluid facts ABS wiring issue Ebay ZR1 Brake Pads BRAKE UPGRADES Basic Brake Upgrade TIPS C6 Z06 Upgrade TIPS Brake brackets C4 to C5/C6 conversion Brake adapters installation Brakes That Will Stop a Freight Train ZR-1 (90' and 91') Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion Brake upgrade MovIt MoveIt Pictures C5/C6 Brake installation on 90' ZR1 C6 Calipers on 94' ZR1 Installed Baer 6P brakes SUSPENSION Bilstein Shock Designations TIPS No Flex Frame Stiffener TIPS Bilstein Shock Applications TIPS Selective Ride Control Solution TIPS Bilstein Shock Applications and Self Alignment TIPS Bilstein Shock Actuator Part Numbers TIPS Service Ride Control Codes TIPS FX-3 shock Rebuild TIPS Revalving and Painting Bilsteins TIPS Clearing Service Ride Control Codes TIPS Disconnect Ride Control TIPS FX-3 Performance TIPS FX-3 rebuild TIPS Rear Shocks Replace TIPS Front Shock Change TIPS Rear Shock Change TIPS FX3 Selective Rid Control TIPS FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS eshocks Bilstein Shocks Bilstein Shock Gear Differences DRM Coil Overs Rear suspension pictures Coil over technology Coil over installation Coil over springs Coil over rear top brackets Rear suspension Rear coil over DRM coil over pictures Banski kit Vansteel coil overs BUSHINGS, BRACES, SRC Rubber Bushing Kit New bushings on rear cam rods VIDEO Ball Joint Replace Set Up TIPS Camber brace Lower A Arm bushings Upper and Lower A-Arm Bushings Replacing all bushings Rubber bushing kit C4 Frame brace Service ride control time out Service ride control codes STEERING Power Steering Pump Repair Kit Replacing Power Steering Pump TIPS Make Your Own Power Steering Lines TIPS Sources of Fittings for Power Steering Lines TIPS Loose steering column TIPS Dimmer Switch TIPS Replacing tie rods Tie rod dust boots Rubber bushing kit Tilt Steering column wobbling Removing air bag TurnOne Last UPDATE of post 106 Apr, 2024 |
Awesome :thumbs:
Thanks for all you do to keep everything organized and up to date for all of us :cheers: :cool: |
ZR1 Engine Fuel, Lubrication, Cooling, and Exhaust
ZR1 Engine Fuel, Lubrication, Cooling, and Exhaust FUEL DELIVERY Replacing Fuel Pumps Fuel Pump Removal Ohm Injectors HOT TIPS Fuel Pump Testing TIPS Fuel Pump Install TIPS Fuel Tank Gasket and Boot TIPS Fuel Pump Jumper TIPS Least Expensive Fuel Pumps TIPS Fuel Pump Option TIPS Difference between 90' and 91' Evap Purge TIPS Fuel Injector Resistance Plenum In Place TIPS Primary Fuel Pump Failure TIPS Changing Fuel Injectors TIPS Fuel pump test connector TIPS Fuel Pump Testing TIPS Fuel Pump replacement using Bosch 69225 TIPS Fuel Pump Bypass Switch TIPS Fuel Injector Offset TIPS L98 Disabling DFCO One more fuel pump source Fuel pump sender Fuel pump replace Fuel filter Cranks but no start Changing fuel filter New fuel pump pictures Old fuel pump pictures Fuel pump fuses Viton seals for ethanol blends Charcoal canister replace Charcoal canister differences (90' and 91') Fuel Delivery (Ethanol) FUEL PRESSURE The Improved LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Pressure Driving TIPS Fuel pump test connector TIPS Fuel Pressure Drop TIPS Delphi Fuel Pressure Regulator TIPS Checking Fuel Pumps #1 and #2 TIPS Checking fuel pressure key and engine off TIPS Checking fuel pressure TIPS Prevention of Fuel Dripping From Disconnected Fuel Lines TIPS Fuel pressure regulator source Hot wire fuel pump Cleaning fuel rails Fuel rail pressure ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM Pre Lube ??? The Importance of ZDDP Debate Billet Aluminum Oil Cooler Adapter TIPS SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings Oil leaks TIPS The most common but most unrecognized oil leak TIPS LT5 Engine and Differential Lubrication Discussion TIPS Engine Lubrication System Functional Discussion TIPS Remove Oil Pan Engine In Car TIPS Oil Cooler Drain Plug TIPS Oil Pans and Gaskets Differences TIPS Engine Oil Prime TIPS Dual Oil Filters TIPS Oil Consumption TIPS Engine Pre Installation Lubrication System Tricks LT5 Lubrication Tricks OPRV Cover Plate Oil Cooler Connections Leaks Oil pick up "O" ring thickness 1 Oil pick up "O" ring thickness 2 Installing New Oil Pan Gasket New Oil Pan Gasket and Bolts Oil pan gasket Magnetic oil pan drain plug Pre Lube Change oil light reset proceedure OIL PRESSURE Oil Temperature Sensor Wiring (Dash/ECM) TIPS Gauge Oil Pressure Sensor Calibration TIPS Removing Oil Pressure Switch TIPS Oil Pressure Sensors TIPS Engine Oil Pressure/Temperature Sensors TIPS Oil pressure sensor location Low oil pressure Oil pressure switch removal Sensor Oil leak Mechanical oil pressure gauge ENGINE OIL, OIL FILTER, DIP STICK Oil poll Oil filter poll Changing Oil TIPS Oil Level Sensors TIPS Engine Oil Methology TIPS ZDDP TIPS Oil Dipstick Handle Replacement TIPS L98 Oil Cooler Housing Modifications for Headers L98 Reset Change Oil Light Oil Catch Can Install Engine Oils Oil Catch Can Photo Changing Engine Oil Oil Level On Dipstick SS Dip stick Valvoline racing oil ZDP and cam wear ZDDP and lifter wear FRAM TG3985 oil filter Oil drain using MityVac Dip stick tube seal Dip stick bracket Amsoil 10W-30 ZDDP Amsoil 10W-40 (Engine) All about motor oil WATER PUMP The Coolant Bypass Plug and Air Locked Water Pump TIPS Water Pump Replace TIPS Electric water pump TIPS Air Locked Water Pump TIPS Air Locked Water Pump With TB Coolant Blocked TIPS Preventing Air Locked Water Pump L98 Water Pump Fit L98 Removed the Frisbee Randy Woods thermostat Leaking water pump fix Water pump gasket sealant Rebuilt water pump Water pump bolt lengths Ebay LT5 Water pump ENGINE COOLANT Antifreeze poll Coolant TIPS Coolant Characteristics (Mix, Pressure, Elevation) TIPS GM 1825M Coolants TIPS Refilling with coolant Eliminated IH Housing and Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system Coolant Selection Summary NOT Dexcool Coolant system service Coolant refill techniques Coolant temperature display COOLANT SYSTEM, HOSES, LEAKS Thermostat and Engine Cooling LT5 Cooling and Radiators TIPS Tool Comparison for Removing Original Coolant Hose Clamps TIPS Removing Original Coolant Hose Clamps TIPS Thermostat and Thermostat Housing TIPS 180 deg Thermostat vrs 160 deg Thermostat TIPS Gates Power Grip Clamps TIPS Replacing Coolant Hoses TIPS Getting the Air Out Simplified TIPS Thermostat Housing TIPS Stant thermostats TIPS Leaking Heater Hose TIPS Heater Hose TIPS Water Pump Replace TIPS Digital Coolant Temperatures TIPS Engine Temperatures TIPS Coolant Temperature Sensors TIPS Thermostat rubber seal install TIPS Hoses TIPS 1/8 inch allen head aluminum pipe plugs Coolant Hoses and Preventing The Air Locked Water Pump Filling With Coolant (TB Coolant Eliminated) LT5 Thermostat operation LT5 Radiator and Exhaust Install Tricks Using HVAC Display for Engine Coolant Temperature Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant Radiator Debree Screens Getting The Air Out of the Coolant System TB Coolant Discussion Thermostat housings Replacing Thermostat or Lower Radiator Hose Thermostat modifications Hot only at idle TB Coolant elimination discussion SAMCO hoses picture Injector housing coolant leak Ebay LT5 Thermostat Ebay ZR1 Coolant RADIATOR AND FANS Radiator Rubber Mounts TIPS Installing a Ron Davis Radiator and Testing Keeping the LT5 Cool and Radiator Debris Screens Fans On All The Time TIPS Radiator Cooling Fans Operation TIPS Primary Cooling Fan Operation Criteria TIPS Radiator Drain TIPS NOS Fan with Shroud TIPS Fans controlled by AC TIPS Make Your Own Debree Screen TIPS Fans Operational Check Fan Relays Replacing radiator Replacing radiator shroud Removing radiator shroud Cooling fan inputs Debris screens Ebay ZR1 Radiator CA SMOG CA SMOG TIPS Passed CA SMOG Finally passed CA SMOG Failed CA SMOG Passed CA Emissions Approved by CA SMOG ****'s Finally passed emissions CA Smog ****'s can kiss.... More SMOG problems Another 91' fails CA Emissions Gross polluter ZR-1 Can't pass CA SMOG POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION PCV System TIPS PCV valves sources TIPS MAP Hose TIPS PCV connector & MAP sensor PCV system PCV source Crankcase Ventilation PCV and Cam Cover Vents Difference between 90' and 91' heads Cam cover vent material Cam cover SS vent material EXHAUST SYSTEMS Exhaust Manifold Bolts Catalyst failure Eliminating the Air Pump TIPS Passing CA emissions TIPS OBX Cat Back Exhaust TIPS Corsa exhaust Functional/Non-functional Exhaust SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW Tricks L98 Air Pump Elimination L98 Air Pump Elimination Details Exhaust System Replace with Headers Exhaust Headers Locking Bolt Tricks Removing Exhaust System L98 Installing SW Headers Performance Exhaust systems Ebay ZR1 Cat Back Exhaust HEADERS Header Install Video Header Gaskets and Bolts TIPS Installed SW Headers/Exhaust Photos TIPS Installing SW Headers TIPS L98 and LT5 Exhaust System Header Bolts Headers install tricks Header stud oil leak Dip stick bracket Stainless Works Headers flex transition Stainless 304 vrs 409 Last UPDATE of post 108 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Specifications, Restorations, Air, Audio, Lifts
ZR1 Specifications, Restorations, Air, Audio, Lifts NUTS, BOLTS, HOSE & FITTINGS Removing Broken Off Bolts Interior Screws/nuts, and Magnetic Sockets TIPS Stainless Braided Hose and Fittings Loctite 262 Camshaft sprocket bolts Stainless steel bolts Stainless fittings Ebay ZR1 LT5 Bolts GASKETS & SEALANTS Permatex Super 300 Usage TIPS Anti Seize usage TIPS Antiseize on Spark Plugs TIPS Finding and Fixing oil leaks TIPS Reusable Gaskets TIPS O Rings sizes Gaskets Gaskets and sealants Head gasket source Perma bond A136 Ebay ZR1 LT5 Gaskets ZR-1 The FBI Gang TIPS ZR1 quarter mile King of the hill ZR1 memoir #1 ZR1 memoir #2 ZR1 Saga #1 ZR1 Saga Vets Day ZR1 CDs RPO LT5/CCM/Intro to LT5/ABS ZR1 magazines LT5 Training Videos/Tech Guides LT5 Training Videos/Tech Guides Covers LT5 ENGINE PHOTOS AND SPECIFICATONS LT5 specifications LT5 92' and 95' crate engines Overhead picture LT5 LT5 photos LT5 picture RESTORATIONS & TRANSFORMATIONS Craigs 95' Transformation TIPS Restoration-of-steel-blue-91 TIPS Typical Top End Restoration TIPS Locobob Interior Restoration TIPS 1990 LT5 Top End Restoration TIPS ZR-1/LT5 and L98 Restoration Options Cleaning the Valley TIPS Restoration 90' ZR1 continued TIPS High miler TIPS High miler update Restoration 90' ZR1 Restoration 92' ZR1 Restoring the girl Rebuild 1991 Engine cleaning Show Car Displays BLING Billet Aluminum Oil Cooler Adapter TIPS Billet Aluminum Dipstick Handle TIPS Carbon Fiber Interior Trim TIPS Carter Bling TIPS Metal Polish Bling TIPS Carter200 Bling Chrome billet tail light louvers Carter throttle body cover bling Carter LT5 various caps bling Carter center caps bling Carter Brembo bling Carter air bling Shift knob bling POWDER COATING Throttle body Top end refinishing Emblems How to powder coat Sunset Powder Coating Precision Powder Coating PORTING (PLENUM, INJECTOR HOUSING, HEADS, HEADERS) Locobob the Porting Guy TIPS Porting effects Porting examples Head porting details Head porting pictures Matched porting LT5 porting Head porting (Dynomite) Head porting Dyno numbers INTERIOR Suede Headliner TIPS Floor Mats TIPS 95' seats in 91' TIPS Window and AC Switch Connections TIPS Courtesy Light restore TIPS Interior Restoration TIPS Interior Trim Color Touch Up TIPS Swappable Interior Panels Interior Carpet Glued Headliner Repair Seat Repair Headliner Repair Seatbelt Solutions Interior Door panel removal Door panel repair Brey-Krause harness bar How to clean ZR-1 carpet Removing center console Lumbar pump repair Removing carpet stains Interior Carpet replace Steering wheel recondition Dynamat Ebay Hood Insulation Retainer AIR CONDITIONER & HEATER Heater Core Replacement AC Control Module Removal Fans Do Not Shut Off TIPS Climate Control Button Repair HVAC Codes Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection Removal of Heater Core Without Removing Dash TIPS Removal of Heater Core TIPS Blower Control Module TIPS HVAC/Climate Control Button Contact TIPS AC Normal Low and High Side Pressures TIPS AC Compressor Not Turning On TIPS Solution to Evaporator Core Leaks TIPS Heater Coolant Flow and Fittings TIPS Air Compressor Part Numbers and Sources TIPS AC Under Hood Fuse TIPS R12 vrs R134a and recharging R12 HVAC Codes HVAC Code Discussion AC and Fan Operation Blower Control Module Air Compressor Not Working Radio and Air issues Replacing heater core Coolant heater core replace AC Evaporator core plugged AC compressor clutch repair R12 vrs R134a Blower motors Cleaning evaporator core BOSE AUDIO SYSTEM Bose Replacement Speakers Radio Antenna Electrical Schematic C4 Audio Antennae Mast Repair Factory Car Stereo Repair Bose Speaker Amp Alternatives TIPS Antenna Mast Repair TIPS Antenna Delete TIPS Antenna Grommet TIPS CDM Removal TIPS Satellite Radio TIPS Bose System including speakers removal videos Antenna Mast Antenna mast instructions Bose Power Antenna Bezel Antenna Mast Part Number Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS Amp Capacators Repair/upgrade Speaker amps on Ebay Radio antenna Antenna manual control Bose speaker amplifiers AVIC Z3 Installed Avic D3 install Double DIN Antenna Parts Doc Don's (Radio) Ebay ZR1 Bose EXTERIOR Roof Panels Windshield poll Windshield delamination poll Safelite Windshield Install TIPS Windshields Windshield Removal TIPS Windshield wipers TIPS Windshield Replacement TIPS Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall TIPS Windshield Wiper Blades TIPS Jack in Zipper Tire Bag inside Black Plastic Bag TIPS Car Cover TIPS Weather stripping Source TIPS Hood Support Source TIPS Engine cleaning TIPS Targa Tops TIPS Melrose Targa Tops TIPS Window Tinting TIPS Hood Latch Receptacle Drain TIPS How to Replace the Wiper Motor Paint Spider Cracks Paint Chip Repair Hood Release Windshield delamination Top glass recondition Repainting the Z Windshield molding 90' Window seals Weather stripping Detailing spray Heat and sound barrier insulation Fiberglass repair Cleaning and polishing Corvette Paint Codes Hood detailing Door ajar switch TRIM Shift and radio surround trim color LIFTS Lifting the ZR1 TIPS Wooden Lift TIPS Lifting and Towing the ZR-1 Using KwikLift KwikLift Adapter Bendpak 4 post HD-9ST Twin post lift ROAD TRIPS Purple zr-1 Road Trip To Utah Road Trip Back To Alaska Tools and Spare Parts for Long Road Trip Road Trip to Glacier NP Road Trip Southwest and San Diego Road Trip Vets on Lexington Road Trip to Canada ZR-1 Pick Up Story Yellowstone and Pacific Norwest Purple ZR1 Road Trip Coast To Coast Purple ZR1 Road Trip West Virginia Trip Florida Trip Alaska Trip Canada trip CA Redwood Trip CA or Bust Trip Gatlinburg Tenn Trip LAST BUT NOT LEAST Winter Storage Made Simple LT5 Registry Archive TIPS BG 2012 Photos Supercar Cruize to Payson Cell phones and driving in CA Something easy becomes a mpia Always be nice to others Trying to please everyone Kludged and Ripped Instant History Polar Bears The GARAGE The SHED What is Acceleration CCM and CHP Guns and Jerks SCAMS...Beware!! Last UPDATE of post 109 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics
ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...72f51747ee.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e50286bb95.jpg LT5 Bolt Charts with suggested bolt torque, loctite and antiseize application information are included above. The free chart from Jerry's Gaskets which provided the basic LT5 component bolt sizes has been considerably modified into two charts above. The charts have been organized by function. If you could only use one Tool....use the Metric Flex Head Ratchet on LT5 Nuts and Bolts. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...761d2df977.jpg Hydraulic Fitting Size comparison AN (Army and Navy).....-2.........-3...........-4.........-5.........-6..........-8........-10.......-12 Tube OD (Hose ID).......1/8".......3/16"...... 1/4".......5/16".....3/8".......1/2"......5/8"......3/4" SAE thread size...........5/16-24..3/8-24.....7/16-20..1/2-20...9/16-18..3/4-16...7/8-14..1-1/16-12 Pipe thread size (NPT)..............1/8-27.....1/4-18................3/8-18....1/2-14..............3/4-14 Metric Pipe Thread Fine........10-1.5........12-1.5....14-1.5.....16-1.5....18-1.5.....20-1.5 1/8 inch NPT Drill is 21/64 or 11/32 inch. Aluminum Allen Head 1/8 inch pipe plugs found here. Speedway Motors Aluminum Stat-O-Seal washers with molded Buna-N inner seals are much more reliable than the more common steel stat-o-seals. If the rubber portion fails to make contact all around the port, the aluminum will act as a crush washer, providing a reliable metal to metal seal. Use them to seal screws, bolts or plumbing fittings. The Buna-N seal is resistant to petroleum fuels and oils. Pegasus Auto Racing https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...24a8255f3f.jpg Stat-O-Seal Inside Diameters vs. Outside Diameters ID Size...#6 (0.138")..#10 (3/16")...1/4"..5/16"...3/8"..7/16"..1/2"..9/16"..5/8"...3/4"...7/8"..1.00" OD Size............ .38".......... .44".. .50".. .60"... .66".. .76"... .88"...1.06"..1.19".1.32"..1.51".1.76" SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings 1. Tools. One 10 inch cresent wrench (Box Wrench is best), One vice, Air compressor, Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel). The best tool for cutting the SS Braided Hose is a Small Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel) which does not fray the SS braids on the hose ends. It is also best to use an appropriate size Box Wrench on the Hose Fittings (box end) to minimize leaving marks on the fittings. I use Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and SS Braided hose from Summit Racing. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e9246160ff.jpg To remove existing 12AN x 3/4 NPT fittings from the Oil Filter Housing use a 1 inch box wrench (combination box/open end) with the box end on the fitting interlocked with a 3/4 inch box wrench on the other end. This will provide the leverage/torque without excessive horizontal pressure to remove the fittings. I use permatex when installing the New 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings into the Oil Filter Adapter (lower fitting first). Let the ZR-1 sit over night before removing the existing Oil Cooler Hoses to minimize oil spilling. Use of 10AN Hose/Fittings I use all 10AN Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and 10AN Hose....The 10AN SS Braided hose I use has ID of 9/16 inch and the 12 AN SS Braided Hose has ID 5/8 inch. As it turns out.....the 12AN hose with 5/8 inch ID is identical to stock Oil Cooler Hose having ID of 5/8 inch. Also I noted the ID Fittings on the stock Oil Cooler Hoses on the Oil Cooler end where the tubing is located is less ID than the SS Braided 10AN Oil Lines. The Stock Oil Cooler hoses have 6 inches of steel tubing on Oil Cooler end that are identical in ID (9/16 inch) to SS Braided 10AN. Further, the Stock Oil Cooler hoses are 17 inches long as compared to 13 inches long for SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses. The Oil Filter Adapter end of the Stock Oil Cooler hoses is only about 1/2 inch ID at the fittings. Which if you add all that up I would say the total head loss in the stock Oil Cooler hoses is about identical to the SS Braided 10AN with Aeroquip 10AN Fittings. 2. Measuring SS Braided Hose Length. A. Follow Step #3 below and make up one end of each SS Braided Hose (cut longer than required to reach the Oil Cooler Adapter) with the 45 degree Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends. B. Install and snug up but not tight the 45 degree Aeroquip 10AN Hose ends onto the 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings installed into the Oil Filter Adapter. C. Take the free SS Braided Hose ends curved freely around the radiator housing as they would look in the final installation. Mark the SS Braided Free Hose Ends along Red Line A and Red Line B as shown. D. Cut these Hose Ends about 1/4 inch longer than that mark. E. Install the 90 degree Aeroquip 10AN hose ends as in step #3 below. F. After installation of all four 10AN Aeroquip hose ends is complete, install the 90 degree hose ends on the Oil Cooler Adapter. G. Tighten the 10AN Fittings into the Oil Cooler Adapter (18mm x 1.5 or 6AN Straight Fittings). H. Tighten the 10AN 90 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the 10AN male fittings of the Oil Cooler Adapter at the angles shown by CD and EF. Make sure there is a small gap between the bottom 10AN 90 Degree Fitting and the AC Line and the two 10AN 90 degree fittings (top and bottom) I. Install the other end of the SS Braided Hoses 45 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the respective Oil Filter Adapter male fittings and tighten. J. Now making sure the "O" rings are in place on the Oil Cooler Adapter (I use Permatex on the adapter "O" ring face), position and the adapter on the face of the Oil Cooler and insert the 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt with SS washer into the Oil Cooler Adapter and tighten the bolt. No modification of the Fiberglass Radiator Housing is required since the Oil Cooler Adapter is installed on the Oil Cooler AFTER the fittings are connected and tightened on the Oil Cooler Adapter. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...116746b126.jpg 3. General SS Hose Assembly with Re-Usable Fittings. A. Place SS Braided hose in vice and cut SS Braided hose to length using Angle Grinder with Cut Off wheel. Angle grinder is preferred since minimal SS wires are left free of the cut. B. Make sure NO SS Braided wires enter the hose end and make sure ALL loose SS Braided wires are ground flush with end of hose. Keep the hose in the vice with about 2 inches on the free end out of the vice. (Clean the inside of the hose end Cut Off before going further with Cotton Cue Tip . C. Take the AN reusable hose fitting and unscrew the male part from the female part. The other end of the male part will have an NPT pipe thread or "O" ring seal thread size (AN) as desired. D. Take the AN reusable hose fitting female part and screw/push onto the SS Braided hose (counterclockwise) by hand pushing onto the hose as you rotate the female hose fitting counterclockwise. Aeroquip Nickel Plated Aluminum Reusable Fittings are not threaded but ARE serrated requiring a push onto the hose only. Make sure ALL SS Braids are inside the hose fitting just pushed onto the hose. E. Screw/push the AN female reusable hose fitting onto the hose fitting such that the hose is at a depth into the female fitting as defined by the lines on the female fitting surface. F. Lubricate the inside diameter of the SS Braided hose with oil through the end of the female fitting. G. Insert the male reusable hose fitting into the lubricated hose through the end of the female fitting. H. Push the male fitting into the hose as you rotate the male fitting clockwise using a cresent wrench (Box Wrench preferred). Once the threads are caught, continue rotating the male fitting into the hose untill approximately 1/16 inch space is left between the hexigon of the male fitting and female fitting. I. Install the second hydraulic reusable hose fitting on the other end of the hose as per steps 2 through 8 above. J. Last...but not least....take an air hose (Air Compressor) and blow the hose clear to make sure you have a clean assembly (if the SS Braided hose is not too long look through the hose end to end for any debree). You now have a SS Braided hydraulic hose with fittings good for maybe 2,000 psi hydraulic pressure more or less. 4. Parts Required for SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines with Re-Usable Fittings. The SS Oil Cooler Lines are very easy to make up in SS Braided hose using Aeroquip reusable fittings and SS Braided hose available from Summit Racing. The Aeroquip Fittings are Swivel so self aligning when installing. A. Use two 10 AN Stainless Steel Braided hose B. use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated C. Use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 45 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated D. On the Oil Filter Adapter remove the 12 AN Flare fittings Trick to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings and use two 10AN Flare to 3/4 inch NPT E. Oil Cooler Adapter With the secondchance design use one "O" ring on each 10 AN Flare fitting with 18x1.5 metric thread. With the Jeffvette design use one Stat-O-Seal, 5/8 in Inside Diameter, Aluminum with O-Ring on each 10 AN to 3/8" BSPP Straight Adapter. F. One 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt G. One 6 mm SS washer H. Two "O" rings for the Aluminum adapter manifold to oil cooler interface. The first seven items can be found at Summit Racing. Secondchance Design of Oil Cooler Adapter..................Jeffvette Design of Oil Cooler Adapter https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f9f7575df1.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a49b3b5f9d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...96b42bc558.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e2fdfbaf37.jpg I have never had one of these hydraulic lines with Aeroquip Reusable Fittings leak and they are much much tougher than original crimped fittings and easily replaced or adjusted if you want to at some point make them longer or shorter (the fittings are reusable and swivel). And......you will find a much better routing of the lines if you make them yourself by looking at the routing of the existing Hydraulic Lines. The Aeroquip Reusable Fittings come in all sizes and angles to fit any situation. You can make your own oil cooler lines as shown here and Power Steering Lines or any other hydraulic line you might need on the ZR-1. As an aside, I use the similar Aeroquip reusable fittings and Aeroquip 1509 hydraulic hose on all my farm implements and tractors. I make up all my implement hydraulic lines often replacing relatively new lines that come with the implements with my own lines that are much more dependable under extreme usage. We are talking hydraulic pressures over 2,000 psi on the hydraulics of some of these implements when the cylinders reach the stops. Once you experiment with making your own hydraulic lines with some using SS Braided hose you will never look back at buying ready made hydraulic lines again. All you need is a vice, hand grinder (or even a hack saw will work), and a couple box wrenches of appropriate size. Oh...and an air compressor to blow clean the lines after assembly. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0586d8386a.jpg See SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings Last UPDATE of post 110 May, 2023 |
ZR1 Engine (LT5) ZR-1 ALDL and associated Codes
ZR1 Engine (LT5) ZR-1 ALDL and associated Codes The ZR-1 Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) pins are configured like so: ____________________ | F | _ | _ | C | B | A | | G | H | J | K | L | M | ----------------------- A = GROUND B = ECM DIAGNOSTIC C = RIDE CONTROL DIAGNOSTIC F = T.C.C (vin 8) G = CCM DIAGNOSTIC H = ANTILOCK BRAKES J = E & C BUS DATA K = SIR DIAGNOSTIC L = SIR SERIAL DATA M = SERIAL DATA (data line used by Tech1 Diagnostic Computer to read system data information for the ECM, Anti-Lock Brake and CCM. 1. ZR-1 ECM Codes Code #12: Normal No Codes. Code #13: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit. Code #14: Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High. Code #15: Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low. Code #16: Direct Ignition System (DIS) Fault Line Circuit Code #21: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High. Code #22: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low. Code #23: Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low. Code #24: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit. Code #25: Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High. Code #31: Camshaft Sensor Circuit. Code #33: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High - Low Vacuum. Code #34: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low - High Vacuum. Code #36: Direct Ignition System (DIS) Circuit (missing or extra EST signal) Code #41: Cylinder Select Error (Faulty or Incorrect Mem-Cal) Code #42: Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Circuit. Code# 43: Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Circuit. Code #44: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit Lean. Code #45: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit Rich. Code #46: Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS)(PASS-Key) Circuit. Code #51: Mem-Cal Error. Code #52: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Low. See ECM Code #52 Item #3. ZR1 ECM CODES 1990 TO 1992 Code #53: System Voltage. Code #54: Fuel Pump Circuit (Low Voltage) Code #55: System Voltage Code #56: Vacuum Sensor Circuit. Code #61: Secondary Port Throttle Valve System. Code #62: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit High. Code #63: Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Open. Code #64: Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Lean. Code #65: Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Rich. 2. ZR1 Ride Control (SRC) Codes. 12 = Start of sequence 13 = Left rear time out 14 = Right Front time out 21 = Left Front time out 22 = Right Rear time out 31 = Left Front out of position 32 = Right Front out of position 33 = Left Rear out of position 34 = Right Rear out of position Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock 41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage 42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions 43 = selective ride control switch circuit open. 23 = If you start the car more than 3 times and do not move the car this code will set. Drive 3-6 feet and the light will go out. The ride control controller is located in the bin behind the drivers seat mounted with the ABS controller. 3. ZR1 ABS Code - Definition 1990 Service Manual: (* = Requires Tech 1 Daignostic Tool) 12 - Diagnostic System Operational 21 - RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 22 - RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 25 - LF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 26 - LF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 31 - RR Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 32 - RR Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 35 - LR Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 36 - LR Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 41* - RF Solenoid Valve Fault 45* - LF Solenoid Valve Fault 55* - Rear Solenoid Valve Fault 61* - Pump Motor or Motor Relay Fault 63* - Solenoid Valve Relay Fault 71 - EBCM Fault 72 - Serial Data Link Fault 75 - Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Short to B+ or Ground, or Open Circuit) 76 - Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Signal Out of Range or Incorrect) Clearing Codes The fault codes in the EBCM's memory are erased in one of three ways: 1. Diagnostic Enable Line Procedure 2. Tech 1 "Clear Codes" Selection 3. Igniton Cycle Default Whichever method is used, be sure to verify proper system operation and absence of codes when clearing procedure is completed. [B] 4. ZR-1 CCM Codes Code Definition 1.1 DISPLAY CCM fault codes 12 On-board diagnostics no codes (this is a good thing: no problem found) 13 DIC switches open or shorted to battery 14 DIC switches shorted to ground 16 Ignition 3 fuse circuit open 21 Horn relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 22 Rear defogger relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 24 Courtesy lamp relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 25 Courtesy lamp relay coil circuit open or shorted to ground 26 LCD blanking control circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open 27 LCD blanking control circuit open or shorted to ground 31 LCD data circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open 32 LCD data circuit open or shorted to ground 33 Data clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 34 Data clock circuit open or shorted to ground 35 Data strobe circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 36 Data strobe circuit open or shorted to ground 37 M clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 38 M clock circuit open or shorted to ground 41 Loss of ECM serial data communications 51 Pass-key invalid key detection 52 Pass-key key detection circuit shorted 53 Pass-key – key detection circuit open or shorted to battery 54 FEDS fuel enable failure 61 Pass-key – key #1 programming resistance out of range 62 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance out of range 63 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance low 71 LCD dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 72 LCD dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground 73 LED display dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 74 LED display dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground Last UPDATE of post 111 Dec, 2017 |
Cliff,
Thanks for sharing all the info. We benefit from you not having a life; oh, sorry.....this is your life and mine too.....lol. Craig |
Fuel Trim and Closed/Open Loop Operation
Originally Posted by phrogs
(Post 1585779696)
I'm saying the mechanical part of the butterfly's is not functioning. That's what it sounds like.
As for the injectors when I was troubleshooting my misfire I found that the injectors have specific wiring for each injector so the ECM tells each one to fire. Not a bank get what I'm saying.
Originally Posted by bad-zr1
(Post 1585780035)
The ECM tells each injector individually when to fire but the duration (pulse width) that the injector is open is determined by the O2 sensor reading for that bank. So yes an exhaust leak on the passenger side would change the amount of fuel to all 4 cyclinders on that side. A bad or lazy O2 sensor on that side would also affect all 4 cyclinders. You should be able to "smell" the difference at the exhaust pipe on each side if it is that rich.
XfireZ51 has provided additional information.....:thumbs:
Originally Posted by XfireZ51
(Post 191678)
The O2s modify the fueling by R/L bank but only in Closed Loop. The VE table is used no matter, but fueling will be the same for both banks in the case of Open Loop. This is true IF there's been no LEARN prior to use. Otherwise the learned BLM will be used, just not modified. In Closed Loop, the PW will be calc'd for the individual bank of cylinders dynamically using O2 sensor input.
The reason its called "closed loop" is because the o2 sensor provides the results of the current BLM/INT levels and the ECM uses that input to modify the BLM/INT on a continuous basis. Running Open Loop means that the ECM will use whatever fueling is in the VE tables with no mod based on o2 sensor input. The CHIP calibration has programmed fueling tables called VE tables. These are specific to the motor its controlling. They form the base fueling while everything else modifies them. The ECM uses the values in the VE tables all the time, whether in Open or Closed Loop. Closed Loop invokes the various routines that modify the fueling based on sensor input like o2. There is a table that defines for the ECM the amount of delay, based on airflow, before allowing the INT to change. Its an O2 INT Delay. This way the ECM correlates the effect of changes it has made w the results coming from the O2. Otherwise it would be out of sync and "chase its tail". In general, the use of headers and moving of the O2 further back has not demonstrated a need for changing the values in this table. Most tuners will resort to Open Loop when larger cams are introduced into the equation. All "LEARN" happens in Closed Loop. However, LEARN is not always ON with Closed Loop. Several other parameters define when LEARN is active. If LEARN is not active, the ECM uses whatever fuel trims have been stored for those cells. The overall goal is to get the VE tables to be as close to optimum as possible requiring little intervention by the ECM. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bed29e96f8.jpg Additional information regarding the use of Headers and the o2 sensor by Marc......Great Stuff :thumbs:
Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck
(Post 188943)
I think that a large factor in bank to bank difference in fuel trim at idle is the use of headers. With headers only two cylinders per bank fire across the oxygen sensor. Maybe because the system has only half of the normal gas samples, the average is not as accurate. The OE manifolds have the primary tubes shaped so that the gas from each of the cylinders jets across the oxygen sensor. The deflectors can be seen if the heat shields are removed from 1990 - 1992 OE manifolds. I observe bank to bank difference of up to 15 fuel trim counts on about half of the engines that have headers and no other modifications.
I have observed that when warmed up from cold, as the coolant temperature goes past 170 degrees, about half of the totally stock engines will swing in and out of learn mode at low loads. If the engine is run at full load to 7000 rpm in second gear a couple of times the system will stay in learn mode. I have not observed any effect on drivability on an engine that is switching in and out of learn mode. It may be important during an emissions test.
Originally Posted by Dynomite
(Post 1581564054)
Battery disconnect trick (rough cold idle)
Marc Haibeck descibed this unique situation regarding an initial rough cold idle. Fuel Trims are fueling data that are displayed on an engine data scanner. I have been disconnecting the battery several times during the day after each ride to correct a vibration issue I had behind the speedometer in the dash. The vibration was actually my top lose which telescoped down to the dash. Each time I disconnected the battery, I lost the system's learned fuel corrections (Fuel Trim). The system self tunes the low load fueling after it is warmed up. It then uses the learned values on the next cold start until it is warm enough to go into Closed Loop and resumes learning. Exactly what I was experiencing as it goes into Closed Loop around 167 deg engine temperature. Then ran smooth having to relearn low load fueling. |
Originally Posted by Dynomite
(Post 1583870824)
Craig.....as you and I both know.....you are one of my chief mentors and you my friend can ALWAYS be counted on to ask the critical questions for the optimum learning experience :flag:
This is one part of my life which is extremely enjoyable as are the other parts :D There is no way to describe in words what you have done in a short time with the sharing of all the information and resources. I cannot even imagine the time you have devoted and I cannot think of anyone that compares. I really don't have much to contribute or I really would. Thanks for all that you do and I wish your information was available when I got involved with the LT5 over 10 years ago. The new folks to the ZR-1 are so fortunate to have your info available. God Speed my friend. :cheers: Craig |
Do you have any additional diagrams or marked up PDF's on how you connected the hoses to remove the air from the system? I think I know but a bit more info would be helpful. The previous owner plugged the TB coolant passages and I need to drain the radiator to replace the IH gaskets. I cracked a head on another vehicle because of airlock, dont want to do that again.
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LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified
Originally Posted by KJL
(Post 1584756539)
Do you have any additional diagrams or marked up PDF's on how you connected the hoses to remove the air from the system? I think I know but a bit more info would be helpful. The previous owner plugged the TB coolant passages and I need to drain the radiator to replace the IH gaskets. I cracked a head on another vehicle because of airlock, dont want to do that again.
This method works great with TB Coolant blocked and works even better with TB Coolant intact ;) Getting the Air Out of the Coolant System The two coolant manifolds attached to the injector housings should get warm within 1 minute with engine running if the water pump is pumping coolant. If not......you have to get that air out of the water pump area (Air Locked Water Pump). A. Disconnect the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" from the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold and rotate that "L" up connected to the Drivers side Coolant Crossover Pipe. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b64b004a0e.jpg Attach a second "L" to the Injector Housing Coolant Manifold rotated up and fill that "L" with coolant. Blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f5287a7ec1.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f1b20341b2.jpg B. Refill the Drivers Side "L" temporarily connected to the Drivers Side Coolant Manifold with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the Drivers Side Crossover "L" that has been rotated up. When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 1 minute), your coolant is NOT flowing. The Simplified Method........ I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret...... A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight. B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time). With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator. Coolant Overflow Under Passenger Side Headlight. When the engine is Hot I fill the Coolant Overflow reservoir to within an inch of the top. On a Hot Engine the coolant overflow is filled by the expanding hot coolant to its maximum fill. As the engine cools the coolant is then sucked back into the engine. What happens after doing some coolant draining during Plenum Pull or thermostat installations, is the engine develops Air Pockets in the coolant system. As the engine warms up to Hot these Air Pockets are pushed out of the engine into the Coolant Overflow. Once the Air gets into the Coolant Overflow the air is caught at the top of the coolant never to return to the engine (Which is exactly the purpose of the Coolant Overflow). All the Air caught within the engine is flushed out by the Water Pump as you rev the engine once the engine has reached optimum temperature. The Air ends up within the Top Side of the Radiator where that Air is pushed out of the radiator into the top of the Black Coolant Reservoir in front of the Passenger Side Windshield. From their the air is forced into the Coolant Overflow as the Hot Air and Hot Coolant expands during engine Warm Up to Engine Hot. If after several cycles of Engine Operation the Coolant Overflow continues to loose Coolant, You Have a Coolant Leak in your System. Last UPDATE of post 116 Dec, 2017 |
LT5 PCV System
A Brief Discussion of the LT5 PCV System in regard to the Oil Catch Can and its use.
1. CamShaft Area. The two cam covers have a filter and air tube connected to the Air Horn. This allows dry fresh air to enter the Camshaft area venting moisture and fumes from that area. The two little restricted holes in each Head/Injector Housing entering the Injector housing (restrictions located in Head or Injector Housing depending on 90' or 91') minimizes oil and air flow going from the Camshaft area into the Injector Housing. 2. Crankcase Area. The Crankcase is vented upward through the two large "L" hoses connecting the Cylinder Case vents to the Injector Housing Ports located under the Plenum. This allows the piston ring Blow By to be vented to the Injector Housing. 3. Injector Housing Function. These two sources of contaminated air (contaminated in the camshaft area by moisture and piston ring Blow By coming up through the oil vents for oil to drain downward) meet in each Injector Housing. 4. PCV Valves Function. All this contaminated air is vacuumed from each side of the Injector Housing through the PCV valves which restrict the flow at high Vacuum. The Vacuum is applied from the PCV connection on the front of the Plenum behind the Throttle Body. At Idle, Plenum Vacuum is high and the PCV valves close down a bit. At lower Vacuum when the Throttle is open (higher Crankcase Blow By) the PCV valves open up a bit more. I am thinking if you have excessive piston ring Blow By more than the PCV vacuum can handle through the Plenum, that excessive Blow By would be forced in reverse through the cam covers to the Air Horn with oily fumes captured by the Cam Cover Filters. 5. Summary of PCV System. In Summary, the contaminants from the Crankcase and Camshaft area meet in the Injector Housing and are vacuumed through the PCV valves. Fresh air picks up moisture by passing through the Camshaft Area and Crankcase Blow By contaminants from the crankcase are both vented to the Injector Housing. 6. Oil Catch Can. Both contaminated air sources pick up oil fumes on the way to the Plenum which fumes are liquefied and caught in the Oil Catch Can installed on both my 90' and 91'. If you have no Oil Catch Can and a bit of Blow By like most higher mileage engines (Frank has a tight rebuilt from bottom up engine I am thinking) the oily fumes continue on into the Plenum exactly as Paul describes :thumbs:
Originally Posted by Paul Workman
(Post 184540)
Oil, not separated, makes its way to the combustion chambers, fouling plugs, carboning up the valves, contributing to knock, plugging the MAP sensor hose (leading to other seemingly disassociated issues with idle and AF mix...) Not good. The LT5 (among other open deck motors) is prone to a little more crankcase pressurization - hence oil blow-by - than some others (tho some LS motors also have oil separators for the same reason: keeping oil out of the cylinders).
P. Notes: I highly recommend Jerry's new PCV valve rubber hose which solves the issue of the vacuum leak from the plenum to the PCV system. See PCV Upgrades You can see the size of the PCV Connector openings (Jerry's new on left and old on right in each photo). Replacing these with Jerry's NEW PCV top connector (on left in each photo) is a must. Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Old PCV Valve Connector on right........................................ .New PCV Valve Connector on left https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b0edabbf24.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...52cdf1f47e.jpg I installed Jerry's New Dual PCV Connectors on ALL engines getting rid of all the Clap Trap Nylon Ties and Hose Clamps to keep the Old (hardened Rubber) Dual PCV connectors from slipping off the connectors or leaking Highly Recommended :thumbs: Right up near Top Of List with Blocking TB Coolant at each Injector Housing. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ca4b542e89.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...be89f0377d.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...310da986c8.jpg I also highly recommend Marc's Camshaft Cover Filters if you remove your Cam Covers for any reason. Last UPDATE of post 117 Dec, 2017 |
Three Things To Do For A No Start
Three things I do on a ZR1 just for Starters (pun intended) :D
1. Install the tccrab Starter Relay. 2. Clean the Starter Solenoid Contacts. 3. Make sure the ground wire contacts and Battery are in good condition. Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...00d7d88a47.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...25b3828451.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a2f54f9f4c.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2fc28ff826.jpg Last UPDATE of post 118 Dec, 2017 |
Last 1990 ZR-1 Sold (#3032) and ZR1 Inspection TIPS
1990 ZR-1 ULNOTWN (Number 3032 - The Last 1990 Sold).
Summary of 1990 Reconditioning/Modifications (#3032) (57K miles) 1. Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, RC Injectors, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected). Got rid of three check engine lights on dash (Low Tire Pressure. Infl Rest, and Ride Control) 1. Reinstalled rear tires (pulled small nail and internal boot on previous plug). 2. Installed low mileage front FX3s I had as spares. 3. Added version 4 of Haibeck AYBKG chip. 4. New Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator (May 2019). 4. Installed New Serpentine Belt. 5. Reinstalled Left and Right Accelerometers on frame rail for Infl Rest. 6. Added several cable ties and rearranged electrical wiring as appropriate. 7. Added Mint Condition Stock Shift Knob I had as extra. 8. Replaced broken Emergency Brake Cover (saddle) with mint new cover (saddle). 9. Added rubberized cup holders replacing stock ash tray. 10. Reinstalled CDM correctly with new nuts on each side and Refurbished Bose Radio/CD. 11. Installed two Front Speaker Amps (Nissan Maxima 975s) replacing non working stock amps. 12. Installed Differential Drain Plug. 13. Replaced All Fluids and Oil Filter. 14. Added ZR-1 Floor Mats (ZR-1). 15. Removed peeling original under hood paint and Painted under side of hood Gloss Black. 16. Added Billet Aluminum License Plate Frames Front and Back and Carter Bling on Engine. 17. Added New Black Felt Dash Mat. 18. Replaced Hood support with New Hood Support. 19. Replaced Spark Plugs. 20. Installed New Aluminum Radiator and New 180 deg F Thermostate from Marc Haibeck. 21. Installed New Heater Core. 22. Reinstalled Black Wind Skirt correctly on front and added Tow Bar Slot. 23. TB Coolant Blocked at IH (Hidden) and Installed SS Allen Head Bolts in Plenum. 24. Installed No Start Relay (Hidden). 25. Refurbished Starter. 26. New Secondary Vacuum System and Linkage (Complete. 27. RC Injectors. 28. Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337. 29. #513019 Timken Wheel Bearings and Hub Assemblies. 30. Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337. 31. New #513019 Timken Wheel Bearings and Hub Assemblies. Last 1990 Sold To Public (#3032) Read the complete thread :yesnod: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c05052c726.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e860c4cdf9.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...95e9807006.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...920f20cb55.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3a2726f17a.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f4e45812e9.jpg Changed ALL fluids today and installed Differential Drain Plug. Checked compression (210 on all cylinders) and with battery a bit undercharged :lol: Replaced two front speaker amps with Nissan Max 975s.....perfect sound on all four speakers :thumbs: Installed New Plugs and changed out Coolant to NAPA Green (see maintenance summary below). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...393e05ac4f.jpg Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, RC Injectors, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...21839655d6.jpg 2. #3032 IS The LAST 1990 ZR-1 Sold To The Public.
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195237)
I just read some information that was discovered by registry members that the actual amount of 1990 corvette zr1's was 3032 sold to the public with an additional 17 pilot cars. Apparently the Gm Archives dont show build sheets for 3033-3049 zr1's. The person working there, her name is Stacy, said there is no information past #3032. There is a confirmation of a red/saddle interior 1990 zr1 #3032 car. So if this information was correct, mine was 4th from the last zr1 built and sold to the public. Interesting.
ed ramos #3028
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195290)
I heard of a red/saddle 1990 zr1 with vin 3032 somewhere in alabama. I have never seen or heard of any cars over 3032 and neither has GM archives since they should no record of anything past 3032. I have to believe the build sheet because it also states where it was delivered too. 6/28 is very, very late production date for a 1990 zr1.
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195334)
I knew that a car dealer owned 3032 a few years ago and that it is or was a red on saddle car. That's great. That could be the last one. At least based on GM Archives it is the last serial number that sold to the public. I would like to see what the built date was on his paper work just to figure out the time line. I can't say 3032 is my favorite but maybe one of my favorites.
Originally Posted by maroon88iroc
(Post 195510)
I own #3032 and I have extensive history on the car, it was purchased new in Washington DC and moved to SC then to FL where I bought the car. I have all the original paperwork and service history on the car. I am looking to sell the car, but am also working a trade with a guy that owns a '69 convertible non #'s matching car that is said to be an original big block car. Anyone have any advice for me on my #3032 if it is this rare I would prefer to sell to a collector.
Can anyone give more info on the 17 pilot cars, what is a pilot car and what were they used for?
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195594)
I can tell you that 3032 is the last serial numbered car sold to the public. there is no record of 3033-3049 in the GM Archives. The pilot cars were probably the first non sequenced cars produced and used for all kinds of experiments, mods, driving, etc.... pilot cars are used to make tests, corrections and to iron out gremlins before the cars are sold to the public. they are also used by the press to drive on roads tests etc... they built 3049 cars. 3032 sold to the public. 17 pilot cars. could have been some crash test cars etc... durability testing cars...
I think you car is unique because it is the last 1990 ZR1.
Originally Posted by QB93Z
(Post 195679)
Here is some more information about the 1990 production data:
1990 ZR-1s VIN ...L5800001 to ...L5800016 were 1990 VIN'd ZR-1 Pilot Cars VIN ...L5800017 was the ZR-1 Engineering Lead unit VIN ...L5800018 was a Chevrolet Advertising Vehicle VIN ...L5800019 was the first public customer ZR1. The 1990 Active Suspension test ZR-1's had their own VIN sequence: ...L5700001 to ...L5700017
Originally Posted by QB93Z
(Post 195684)
#3032 is the last VIN issued to a "for sale" 1990 ZR-1. The 3049 number that was used in the ZR-1 Community for a long time is wrong. The confusion came from the count of LT5's installed in the 1990 production run. The 17 Active Suspension cars were used for engineering testing, had a different VIN sequence and were never sold to the public. Another way to say it is that there is NO 1990 ZR-1 VIN that ends in ...3033 to ...3049.
Jim
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195765)
Great information. what a sleuth. That is what I was looking for. Makes perfect sense and now the owner of 3032 will see how unusual his car is. He's going to trade it so there it goes. The winner will be the guy who trades for it. congrats to both.
Installation of Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337 on ZR-1 #3032. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...63ecc547a0.jpg Post 270 - Wilwood 6 Piston Brakes with 13" Rotors and Wheel Alignment Wilwood 6 Piston Brakes with 13" Rotors and Wheel Alignment The Hats are first torqued 100 in-lbs each of 12 bolts to the Rotors (Twelve 1/4x20 bolts with 8mm 12 Point heads). The two Front Caliper Bolts are torqued to 150 ft-lbs. The Rotor is then installed on the wheel and then the Caliper is installed on the Wilwood adapter (30 ft-lbs) with correct shims to center the Rotor within the Caliper. 4. #513019 Timken Wheel Bearings and Hub Assemblies. The 4 Hub Bolts are torqued to 46 ft-lbs each. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4278c9c81d.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...585bef0363.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...147636614b.jpg 5. ZR1 Inspection TIPS. Any modifications? Any photos? Any Parts replacements that you know of? Does the clutch disengage the pressure plate (shifting easy in all gears)? Do the following function? AC Air Fans Radio/CD Any check engine light at any time? What engine oil you been using? Any oil leaks? Any coolant leaks? Does the engine run cool or on hot side? Oil pressure idling? Oil pressure at 3,000 rpm hot? Stock Exhaust? Do you know if the secondaries function with power switch ON (this can be checked in a few seconds without removing the Plenum). What is the time between vacuum pump cycling with ignition key on? Check the engine oil level and color of oil and ask what brand/weight of engine oil was used. Oil should be light transparent NOT BLACK. Check coolant level in overflow container under passenger head light. Check brake fluid level and make sure clutch releases. It is hard to check clutch fluid level as reservoir is hidden under ECM located just in front of drivers side behind left front tire high point on engine. There should be removable flat black cover held on with Velcro on top of ECM. Fire it up and listen for any knocks of any kind just in case. Let it warm up until temperature stabilizes which should be mid gauge between 100 deg F and 260 deg F.....around 180 deg F more or less. Idle should be around 800 after it levels out. Idle should be smooth. Rev it up and listen for any hesitation. Just check overall condition of paint and interior for stains of any sort. Actually.....Anything except a rare rod knock or other knock and except for any serious dents or exterior damage or interior carpet stains/trip breakage are easily fixable. But when you get it home...do a compression check for starters and then post up photos and any questions you may have :cheers: If the fluid levels are where they should be and the items above check out with the clutch disengaging so you can shift easily, you should be able to drive it almost anywhere :D This list is what I look for in any inspection of a corvette for others. A good list to avoid finding issues later. In addition my first test when I get it to home base always is a compression test which takes 15 minutes. (you be looking for 210-230 lbs more or less and within 5 lbs each cylinder). Last UPDATE of post 119 Oct, 2022 |
Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling
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$24......Shows a gasket but came without a gasket....Price was right :thumbs: Stant 14068 Thermostat Jerry has the Rubber gasket :thumbs: Stant 14068 gasket 1. The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat. Why not just remove thermostat? NO...NO...NO!!!! I run 180 deg thermostats in ALL ZR-1s. A. At a coolant temperature of say 190 deg a 160 deg thermostat is open....so is my 180 deg thermostat. So from that point on our coolant system flow rates are identical at the same rpm. And so is the cooling. Also see Defective Stant Thermostats B. Using a 160 deg thermostat in cooler weather drops the engine coolant temperature below the designed engine temperature with the 180 deg thermostat. The PVC (at the cooler engine temperatures) is working at less than optimum temperatures as well as your oil and fuel functioning at less than optimum temperatures. C. I see no difference between a 160 deg F thermostat and a 180 deg thermostat (both with the same Full Open Head Loss) once the coolant temperature has reached 190 deg F? I know the 190 deg F will be reached slower with a 160 deg F Thermostat but that is the only difference in that you reach the same Coolant Temperature at different rates of temperature increase. Kind of like using light weight pulleys to save HP which HP is only realized on acceleration as the rotational velocity of the pulley changes. Nothing is gained in a constant velocity (constant speed) situation. FANS Oh....almost forgot.....my fans come on a bit sooner controlled by Marc Haibeck chip to help with engine temperatures when idling at a traffic light on a hot day (On at 205 deg F and Off at 200 deg F). But again....my 180 deg thermostat and the 160 deg thermostat are both open in that condition :D But MUCH MORE as you can see as the LT5 thermostat has several functions LT5 Thermostats 2. Thermostat Multiple Functions. The LT5 thermostat sits in two cavities and is located on the outlet side of the radiator. On one end of the thermostat is the first valve [pressure relief) that expands and opens to excessive radiator pressure (but only relative pressure over and above that normal thermal expansion radiator pressure). That valve is in the first cavity which is exposed to coolant outlet flow. In the second cavity is the second thermostat valve (temperature relief) which controls coolant inlet flow depending on engine temperature. GM found at high rpm and high coolant flow, excessive pressure in the radiator, due to it's restriction, would blow the rubber seals between the side tanks and the core. GM did not want to design a specific LT5 radiator, so the solution was the radiator bypass which opens when the pressure differential across the radiator reaches a certain level. This bypass valve is part of the thermostat and, when open, allows coolant to recirculate within the engine. When the Stant Thermostat is Fully Open the bottom end of The Stant Thermostat has two slots equating to approximately .07 square inches opening which feeds coolant back to the engine before passing the radiator. Again, even though the coolant passing through the thermostat from the radiator is of a lower pressure than the coolant passing the bottom of the thermostat before passing through the radiator (Radiator Head Loss), the total opening area of those two slots (.07 square inches) is very small compared to the approximately .75 square inches of a fully open thermostat. The effect of those two slots theoretically is negligible on hindering Engine Coolant passing from the radiator when the Stant Thermostat is Fully Open. [b] LT5 Thermostats ZR1 provided this photo in the LT5 Coolant System Discussion :thumbs: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a3fc73f8b1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...56ae3e0176.jpg 3. Lets simplify......the discussion of the 160 deg thermostat cooling better than the 180 deg thermostat. A. Let us say we have identical radiators, identical rpm, steady state coolant temperature, and both fans on and we are cruising at same speed. B. Lets say coolant temperature is 190 deg in both your Z and my Z given everything identical in item #1. C. Your 160 deg thermostat is full open with same flow rate as fully open 180 deg thermostat. D. My 180 deg thermostat is full open with same flow rate as fully open 160 deg thermostat. E. In other words...we both have been driving our Zs for say at least 30 minutes and have reached a steady coolant state. Now......lets say the day gets hotter. The coolant temperatures should rise the same in both your Z and my Z given EVERYTHING else is the same :yesnod: If it gets REAL HOT......both our Zs coolant will reach 230 deg at the same time. The maximum temperature reached (given it is over 190 deg) will be no different for you than me even though you have a 160 deg thermostat and I have a 180 deg thermostat. I am saying that my thermostat just maintains a minimum temperature higher than yours. I am also saying your thermostat does not maintain a lower higher temperature than mine. Once both thermostats are fully open, the coolant temperatures are controlled by everything else mentioned in item #1 and not the thermostats (yours or mine). 4. Fans and Radiators. Once your fan is on (my fan which may be on at lower temperatures is on).......we have identical radiator cooling no matter how hot it gets outside. The exception is Replacing the Fans with Higher Flow Rate After Market Fans which would solve the ZR-1 Over Heating Issue in Traffic on a Hot Day as long as you keep the rpms above 2,000 rpm(see item #6 below). Now if we change radiators.....you run stock radiator and I run Ron Davis....DIFFERENT STORY as I have greater dissipation of heat than you at all rpms (water pump speed dependent) and ZR-1 speeds (air flow dependent). 5. Engine RPM. My experience in all ambient temperatures. A. In sixth gear running 65 mph (less than 2,000 rpm) the Coolant always gets a bit over 200 deg F. On Hot days the coolant will get a bit over 213 deg F. The key is the Water Pump is not pushing enough flow through the fully open thermostat to cool the engine to a Temperature where the Thermostat takes over (180 deg F). B. If I shift to 5th gear at 65 mph (more than 2,000 rpm) the coolant temperature drops to Thermostat control (180 deg F) on cool days and drops to near 200 deg F on Hot days. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ead9daffa4.png My findings are simply that the stock water pump is a bit low on coolant flow rate at rpms under 2,000 rpm. As you can see there is a big jump in Coolant Pump Flow rate between 1,000 rpm and 2,000 rpm and it is in this area or engine RPM that the Coolant Flow Rate is not sufficient in HOT Climates when the ZR-1 is moving in 6th gear at 65 mph. The overheating issue when idling at a stop sign on HOT days (100 deg +) is more related to Fan Air Flow. Tests at 50 deg F ambient. Going 65 mph in 6th (1500 rpm) coolant temperature 205 deg F. Going 65 mph in 5th (2200 rpm) coolant temperature 192 deg F. Idling at 750 rpm coolant temperature 204 deg F. Engine rpm 2000 rpm (not moving) coolant temperature rose to 213 deg F. So...….At 65 mph it is the coolant flow. At 0 mph (Not moving) it is the air flow. If I could get the air flow higher while in traffic the issue would then be the coolant flow again where keeping rpm above 2,000 rpm would solve the High coolant temperatures on hot days in traffic. The Coolant Pump Flow at 800 rpm is 15 gpm. The Coolant Pump actually gets more efficient as the rpm increases from idle to 2,000 rpm. As Per Marc Haibeck graph provided to the ZR-1 Net email list by Graham Behan about ten years ago, the Coolant Pump flow rate through the engine (not the radiator or thermostat) is: 15 gpm at 800 rpm 18 gpm at 1,000 rpm, 44 gpm at 2,000 rpm, 65 gpm at 3,000 rpm, 90 gpm at 4.000 rpm, 120 gpm at 5,000 rpm at which time cavitation is starting. The Block Resistance at 100 gpm was 20 psi during these tests which varies as the flow rate of the pump increases. The pressure on the output of the pump during the test was 3 psi at 2000 rpm, ramping up to 25 psi at 5000 rpm. As cited above, the hoses, radiator and bypass valve were not connected as a system as per Marc Haibeck Testing. The Dual Thermostat Bypass pressure is apparently 5 psi and block resistance at 100 gpm is approximately 20 psi. I am not sure what the radiator Head Loss is at various flow rates but definitely depends on the radiator type which was not part of these tests. It would seem that the Coolant Pressure Relief Cap on top of the Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side set at 15 psi would assure the radiator maximum pressure would be 15 psi plus the Bypass Pressure of 5 psi or 20 psi. 6. Summary .....See LT5 Cooling and Radiators TIPS A. Fans turn on at 205 deg F and OFF at 200 deg F (Haibeck Chip) B. I use 180 deg Thermostats. C. Ron Davis, Dewitt, and Fluidyne multi core Aluminum Radiators. D. To solve the Hot Coolant flow when stalled in traffic would require Fans with Greater Air Flow. The Thermostat is fully open at all coolant temperatures over 180 deg F (no need to use cooler thermostat unless you want to run at temperatures below 180 deg F). The Water Pump does not provide enough flow to cool the engine at rpms less than 2,000 rpm. This is not an issue at ambient environmental temperatures on cool days. This is a problem on HOT days. The Aluminum Multi Core Radiators DO provide better Heat Dissipation and offer cooler Coolant at ALL Temperatures for which the 180 deg F Thermostat Controls the Flow (above 185 deg F Coolant temperatures the Thermostat is fully open). The Cooling effects then being dependent on Water Pump Flow Rate and Air Flow Rate through the Radiator. Having the Fans come on at 205 deg F DOES provide for COOLER Coolant in the radiator once sufficient coolant flow rate is provided above 2,000 rpm. Using Aluminum Multi Core Radiators ALSO provides for COOLER Coolant Temperatures in conjunction with the Air Flow provided by Fans and Vehicle Speed. The Heat Removal Rate from the Radiator is greater as the Air Flow Increases and as the Aluminum exposed to that Air Movement increases. It DOES make a difference if you are moving at speed in conjunction with Fans PULLING Air Flow as the additional Air Pressure Up Front does add to the TOTAL AIR FLOW through the Radiator at any ambient environmental temperatures. Using 180 deg Thermostats insures that the engine will not run cooler than that temperature since the Thermostat is in control and controls the Coolant flow rate through the engine at all Coolant Temperatures less than 180 deg F. 7. Modifying the Stant Thermostat. There has been some suggestions to drill 1/8 inch holes in the thermostat flange to allow better cooling. Just tested several 180 deg F Thermostats for opening temperatures and found the Stants 180 deg Thermostat will start opening at 175 deg F with complete opening at 185 deg F. Marc suggested at one time the older Stants will deteriorate (Decrease in FUll Open Area) by up to 15% as they age. A thermostat with over 50k miles generally opens 5 degrees later and opens about 85%. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F. Thermostat opening at 175 deg F....................................Thermostat opening at 185 deg F (Full Open) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd483d6c82.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...05a4a594e0.jpg A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area. Given the LT5 runs Hotter idling at a stop sign than at 2,000 rpm as cited in Item #5 in the link above a much better focus regarding engine Heating would be engine RPM (which relates directly to pressure on the coolant flow through the Stant Thermostat) and not the Stant Thermostat (Old or New). 8. The Thermostat housing and Heater Hose Connections. Heater Hose Connection on Thermostat Housing See Item #2 Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a418faaa1a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...75d98ca062.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b2b7ea97a7.jpg Some Thoughts regarding the Thermostat Housing: A. It does not make any difference if you use a 160 deg thermostat or 180 deg thermostat....they both are fully open at 185 deg. B. I makes no difference if you drill small 1/8" holes in the thermostat flange as the additional area is only 1.5% increase per hole. C. The Heater Circuit is open at all times even on a cool engine after start as the heater will be the first to get warm coolant. D. On a very cold day with the heater on and Interior Fans set at Ten, the Heater Core with significant coolant flow could cool the engine for a significant amount of time before the main temperature controlled end of the Thermostat on the radiator side opens. The engine coolant mixed with some air would still expand into the radiator and to the coolant over flow below the passenger headlight. E. If you want to cool your engine below the temperature controlled thermostat on a cold day or cool your engine a bit more on a very hot day, run your Heater with Interior Fans set at Ten using Outside Air (not recirculate) with windows open. The additional Coolant Flow through the Heater could be as high as 14% of the total coolant flow with 3/8 inch ID Heater Hoses. F. The bottom of the thermostat on engine side opens at differential pressure of 5psi when open 1/2 inch allowing coolant to bypass the radiator (Marc Haibeck Testing). G. When the thermostat has not reached opening temperature (175 deg) the coolant recirculates through the bottom of the thermostat at a pressure of 5psi since the coolant flow through the radiator is blocked. H. Always use original green coolant GM 1825M. 9. Filling with Coolant. I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret...... A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight. B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time). With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator. See Item #7 Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats Last UPDATE of post 120 Dec, 2018 |
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