Tech Info - LT5/ZR-1 Technical Calculations
 

Tech Info - LT5/ZR-1 Technical Calculations

Several posts involving ZR1 and LT5 Technical Calculations follow this first summary post.
This thread is referenced in the first post of Tech Info - LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks (500+hp)

The Calculations Posts in this thread are in DRAFT for now and include the following topics.

Post 202. Tech Info - LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations
Post 203. Tech Info - ZR1 Differential Gearing and Vehicle Speed Calculations
Post 204. Tech Info - ZR1 Wind Force, Rolling Resistance, Drivetrain Loss Calculations
Post 205. Tech Info - LT5 Camshaft Timing and Timing Chain Calculations
Post 206. Tech Info - LT5 Pressure Drop In Oil Lines Calculations
Post 207. Tech Info - LT5 RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp) Calculations
Post 208. Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing
Post 209. Tech Info - LT5 Timing Diagrams
Post 210. Tech Info - L98 Frisbee Horsepower
Post 211. Tech Info - LT5 Coolant Flow Calculations
Post 212. Tech Info - Calculating Alternator Pulley Diameter

Additional Calculations Links are provided herein. These Links provide for quick determinations of:
a. 1/4 Mile ET
b. HP
c. MPH
d. RPM
e. Speed
f. Gear Ratios
g. Wheel Offset.

1/4 mile Calculator TIPS
Gear calculator TIPS
Wheel Offset Calculator

Additional posts will be added as they are created.

Last UPDATE of post 201 Sep, 2012

Tech Info - LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations
 

Tech Info - LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations

One horsepower is defined as Omega T or rotation speed (radians per second) multiplied by torque (foot-pounds)

One horsepower is defined as 550 foot-pounds per second (33,000 foot-pounds per minute). Engine speed is revolutions per minute (rpm). The units of torque are foot-pounds.

A radian of a circle is a ratio of the length of an arc divided by the length of a radius, so the units of length cancel out and you're left with a dimensionless measure called a radian.

One revolution is 360 degrees of a circle. The circumference of a circle is 2 x pi x radius (there are 2pi radians in a revolution where pi is 3.14 which is the ratio of circumference of circle to radius). To convert revolutions per minute to radians per minute, you multiply revolutions per minute (rpm) by 2pi which equals 6.28 radians per minute per rpm (revolution per minute). (6.28 radians per minute)/(60 seconds per minute) equals 0.10472 radians per second per rpm (revolution per minute).

So....one rpm is 6.28 raidans per minute or .1047 radians per second.

If we use rpm (converted to radians per minute) in the Horespower equation (one horsepower = 33,000 ft-lb/min) we have to divide by 6.28 radians per minute per rpm (revolution per minute).

If we use one horsepower = 550 ft-lbs/sec we have to divide by the conversion 6.28 radians per minute/60 seconds per minute equals .10472 radians per second per rpm (revolution per minute).

Divide the 550 ft-lbs/sec by the 0.10472 radians/second per rpm, we get 550/0.10472, which equals 5,252 ft-lbs-rpm (Conversion factor).

Horsepower = Torque (ft-lbs) x engine speed (rpm)/5,252 ft-lbs-rpm.
OR.....Torque (ft-lbs) = 5,252 ft-lbs-rpm x Horsepower/engine speed (rpm).

You should be able to construct any Torque/rpm curve from any Horsepower/rpm curve and vice versa.

Torque = 5252 x Horsepower/rpm at any specific rpm.
Horsepower = rpm x Torque/5252 at any specific rpm.

If you are talking crankshaft, stay at the crankshaft for both. If you are talking rear wheel, stay at the rear wheels for both.

Rotating Horsepower Calculators

Last UPDATE of post 202 Nov, 2012

Tech Info - ZR1 Differential Gearing and Vehicle Speed Calculations
 

Tech Info - ZR1 Differential Gearing and Vehicle Speed Calculations

1. ZF-S6-40 Transmission gear ratios. To convert transmission output rpm to engine rpm.
Gear ratios - 1st-2.68, 2nd-1.80, 3rd-1.29, 4th-1.0, 5th-0.75, 6th-0.50, Reverse-2.50
Transmission Output rpm = Engine rpm/transmission gear ratio.
For Engine Speed of 7,000 rpm and third gear.....
Transmission Output rpm = 7,000/1.29 = 5,426rpm

2. Differential Gear Ratios and Tire rph (Revolutions Per Hour). To convert transmission output rpm to engine rpm.
Two typical Differential Gear Ratios are 3.45 and 4.10.
Tire rpm = Transmission Output rpm/Differential Gear Ratio.
Tire Revolutions per hour = Tire rpm x 60min/hr
For Engine Speed of 7,000 rpm in third gear with 3.45 Differential......
Tire Revolutions per hour = (7,000/1.29/3.45) x 60min/hr = 94,371rph

3. Tire circumferences.
Stock 315x17x35 Tires. 25.68 tire diameter x 3.14 = 80.64inch circumference.

a. It is assumed the tire radius is measured from center of tire to ground or deflected (Loaded) radius of tire to calculate tire diameter used in the speed calculations.
b. It is assumed centrifugal force does not increase tire loaded diameter at high rpms.

4. Vehicle Speed at 7,000rpm 3rd Gear (Fly Wheel RPM).
Vehicle Speed in Miles Per Hour (mph) = (Tire Circumference in ft x Tire revolutions/hour)/ 5,280ft/mile

(7,000rpm/1.29/3.45) = Wheel rpm =1572.85rpm = 1572.85rpm x 60 = 94,371 revolutions/hour
80.64/12 = wheel circumference in ft = 6.72ft
94,371 revolutions/hour x 6.72ft/revolution/ 5,280 ft/mile = 120.11 miles/hour

OR
One Mile = 5,280ft
(1572.85rpm x 6.72ft x 60 min/hr)/ 5,280ft = 120.11 mph

5. Vehicle speed with tire loaded deflection of 1/4 inch at Engine rpm (7,000 rpm).
Assuming third gear (Transmission 1.29 gears and Differential 3.45 gears).

Stock 315x17x35 Tires. 25.68 tire diameter x 3.14 = 80.64inch circumference.
Deflected Tire Diameter 25.68in - .5in = 25.18 inch tire effective deflected tire diameter.
New wheel circumference in ft = 6.59
Vehicle Speed at engine speed of 7,000rpm = (1572.85rpm x 6.59ft x 60 min/hr)/ 5,280 ft = 117.78mph


Last UPDATE of post 203 Aug, 2014

Tech Info - ZR1 Wind Force, Rolling Resistance, Drivetrain Loss Calculations
 

Tech Info - ZR1 Wind Force, Rolling Resistance, Drivetrain Loss Calculations

(100 mph, 50 deg F and Sea Level).

Starting from scratch............Coefficient of drag (Cd) depends somewhat on the Rynolds Number (for this discussion we shall consider Cd constant or 0.34). Reynolds Number Calculator (just to show what is involved as there is no chart showing Cd vrs Reynolds Number for ZR1 vehicles) Reynolds Number Calculator

For the air resistance or drag (D) we have:

D = (1/2)* rho*(V^2)*A*Cd. (* or x are used interchangeably as multiplying)

Rho is density of the fluid, air in this case, which is approximated as 0.0024 slugs/cubic foot (depends on temperature and elevation - 50 deg F and Sea Level) Air Density Calculator
One slug per cubic foot (slug/ft^3) = 32.17 lbm/cubic foot (divide lbm/ft^3 in chart by 32.17 to get slugs per cubic foot).

V is the velocity, in ft/sec, relative to the air.
V = (100 miles/60 minutes)
V = ((100 miles * 5280 ft/1 mile) / (60 min * 60 sec/1 min)) = 146 ft/sec
A is your frontal area. Let's assume car is 4 feet tall and 6 foot wide as an average, for an area of about 24 square feet.

Cd is the Drag Coefficient. For a 1990 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 lets use a Cd of 0.34.

1. Wind Force.
So the air Drag on the ZR1 (at 100 mph) at sea level on a cool 50 deg F day would be (1/2)*0.0024*(146^2)*24*.34 = 208 slugs*ft/sec^2 or 208 pounds.

2. Energy Loss.
But your real question is ft# or total energy per a mile (5280 ft) for example. So in a mile we have 208 lbs * 5280 ft or 1,098,240 ft # .

But.........what you really want is Horsepower (Hp) or Drag times velocity

33,000 ft-lbs/min (550 ft-lbs/sec) is one horsepower........

3. Horsepower Loss.
I think then we would have 208 lbs x 146 ft/sec or about 30,368 ft-lb/sec or about 55 Hp (Drag x velocity) at 100 mph (sea level, 50 deg F).

or ft-lb (Energy) per unit of time. Lets say the mile is accomplished in 36 seconds at 100 mph.
This is the same as 1,098,240 ft-lbs/36 seconds or close to 30,368 ft-lbs/sec or 55 Hp (energy/unit of time).

Just trying to make this whole discussion more universal being able to now calculate ft-lbs of energy expended in any distance for any velocity and any car (any temperature and any altitude) and from there calculate hp expended

With head lights up or down see Wind Tunnel Test

4. Tire Rolling Resistance.
Now....lets calculate tire rolling resistance Horsepower (RR Hp) .
Lets say rolling resistance coefficient (RRc) of .02 (depends on tire type and tire pressure velocity, altitude, temperature independant).
Rolling resistance R = Weight x RRc = 3,300 lbs x .02 = 66 lbs. At 146 ft/sec (100 mph) the RR Hp would be:
RR Hp = (146 ft/sec x 66 lbs)/550 ft-lbs/sec) = 17.5 Hp

The total Horsepower loss due to aerodynamics (I should say poor aerodynamics) and tire rolling resistance at 100 mph is then 55 Hp + 17.5 Hp or 72.5 Hp. This can then be compared to the Hp at the rear wheels since we have not accounted for drivetrain losses. Drivetrain losses (Transmission 1.5%, Drive shaft .5%, Differential 7% or greater) might add up to 10% or more of Hp output. The drivetrain losses estimated here are very conservative.

Lets try 185 mph just for kicks (seal level, 50 deg F).
V = 271 ft/sec
Drag due to air resistance would be 720 lbs. That would be around 354 Hp at 185 mph. Add in Rolling Resistance that would be 372 hp total......we are now very close (or exceed) 375 hp at the flywheel if you include drivetrain loss (not calculated).

Lets now try 180 mph and include drivetrain losses (sea level and 50 deg F)
V = 264 ft/sec
Drag due to air resistance would be 682 lbs. That would be around 327 Hp at 180 mph. Add in Rolling Resistance that would be 344 hp total.

5. Drivetrain Loss.
Now lets add Drivetrain losses (1.5% transmission, .5% drive shaft, 7% Differential) and we get an additional hp loss of 31 hp for a total hp loss of 375 hp......we are now at 375 hp at the flywheel when we include Drivetrain losses (which drivetrain losses are very conservative estimates).

If we use 3.45:1 differential gears and .5:1 Transmission 6th gear overdrive with 12.5 inch loaded radius rear wheels we are at 4,200 rpm (to make sure we have the 375 hp at the flywheel from the horsepower curve we would need appropriate differential gears) SPEED vrs RPM Calculator

Keep your Head Lights DOWN and transmission hot.

Last UPDATE of post 204 July, 2017

Tech Info - LT5 Camshaft Timing Calculations
 

1. Tech Info - LT5 Camshaft Timing Calculations

I set the exhaust at 108 deg because of the SW headers and SW 3 inch exhaust having less backpressure and intake at 114 deg.

This timing accomodates the dynamics of the air flow (effects on cam timing) resulting from porting (plenum/injector housing/heads) and headers/3 inch exhaust/no CATS.

There are 20 teeth on the cam sprocket or 18 degrees per tooth. There are 14 holes in sprocket or 25.7 degrees if you rotate vernier plate without removing pin from hole in vernier plate and pin next hole in sprocket (15 holes in vernier plate and 14 holes in sprocket). There is 1.6 deg on the camshaft sprocket if you rotate vernier washer to align with next pin hole in sprocket (360/15/15). So if you went 11 holes that would be like one tooth on cam sprocket or 17.6 degrees on the camshaft sprocket retard or advance. The smallest amount of retard or advance you could set would be 1.6 deg on the camshaft sprocket by pinning next aligned holes (3.2 deg on the crankshaft front pully).

Marc Haibeck suggests there is about 3 deg of play (6 deg measured at the crankshaft) between the sprocket timing plate flat (vernier plate) and camshaft flat (90'-92'). As one tightens the camshaft bolt you have to watch not to turn the camshaft in the timing plate (vernier plate). It helps to hold a 19 mm open end wrench on the rear of each cam during tightening of the camshaft bolt.

This 3 deg of play (at the camshaft) actually allows you to set the camshaft timing at any angle within the 1.6 deg (at the camshaft) allowed by the pin holes in the vernier plate and sprocket.

This camshaft play is 3 deg (90-92 having single flats) and is reduced to 1.5 deg on 93s' (having double flats).

See LT5 Camshaft Specifications and Camshaft Timing Tricks for supplemental information.

See Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing from Start to Finish for supplemental information.

2. Tech Info - LT5 Timing Chain Calculations

Timing chain breakage although very rare has been blamed on repeated engine pulses or fatigue (dead injector or bad valves for example). The timing chain calculations in this post debunk all such theories on timing chain failure.
http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif

LT5 Cranskshaft sprocket has 20 teeth.
LT5 Idler sprocket on primary side has 42 teeth
LT5 Idler sprocket on secondary side has 21 teeth
Each LT5 camshaft sprocket has 20 teeth
LT5 Primary chain has 54 pins
LT5 Secondary chain on LH has 102 pins
L T5 Secondary chain on RH has 94 pins

So...we know the camshaft sprockets rotate half as fast as the crankshaft sprocket.

Lets calculate......Crankshaft sprocket rotates 360 deg or 20 teeth. Idler sprocket primary rotates 20/42 of 360 deg or 20 teeth. Idler sprocket on secondary side rotates 20/42 of 360 deg or 10 teeth. Camshaft sprocket rotates 180 deg or 10 teeth. Exactly 180 deg like it is suppose to.

Now lets see how much of total length the RH and LH secondary chains rotate. Crankshaft sprocket rotated 20 teeth or 360 degrees. Primary chain has 54 pins so it rotated 20/54ths of its length. Camshaft sprocket rotated 180 deg or 10 teeth so for RH chain with 94 pins that is 10/94ths of its length and for LH chain with 102 pins that is 10/102nds of its length.

Lets put this another way.......each time the crankshaft sprocket rotates 360 degees, the RH chain moves 10/94ths of its length and the LH chain moves 10/102nds of its length. Or if the RH chain were to rotate its full length, the crankshaft sprocket would rotate 9.4 times and if the LH chain were to rotate its full length, the crankshaft sprocket would rotate 10.2 times.

Now...let us look at the analysis in above posts wherein a miss fire could cause chain failure.

The bad cylinder miss fires once every two revolutions of the crankshaft. That little tug on the chain would occur on the RH chain 4.7 times as it rotated its full length. That little tug would occur on the LH chain 5.1 times as it rotated its full length. And the little tug from a bad injector would occur at different locations on each chain every revolution of the crankshaft since these (4.7 and 5.1) are not whole numbers.

Primary drive crankshaft sprocket................................Primary chain

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5d51994d8f.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...36c251d0cd.jpg

Idler sprocket........................................ ...........Secondary chain (LH top, RH bottm)

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b92453177a.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d50e05dc7b.jpg

One of four camshaft sprockets

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d734641af2.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 205 Dec, 2017

Tech Info - LT5 Pressure Drop In Oil Lines Calculations
 

Tech Info - LT5 Pressure Drop In Oil Lines Calculations

Pressure drop in oil lines of different internal diameters and lengths

Flow rate in gallons per minute (gal/min) Q (lets say 3 gal/min at 2,300 engine rpm).
Inside diameter of pipe or hose in inches (in) D (lets say .75 in)
Kinematic viscosity of fluid (at operating temperature) in square in/sec) kv (lets say .1309 square in/sec)
Density of the fluid in pounds per cubic inch (lbs/in cubed) ρ (lets say .0318 lbs/in cubed)
Length of the pipe, tube or hose in inches (in) L (lets say 36 inches or two hoses 18 inches long each)

Kinematic Viscosity (kv)
AMSOIL 10W-30 kv is .1024 square in/sec @ 104 deg F (66.1 cSt)
kv is .0181 square in/sec @ 212 deg F (11.7 cSt)
AMSOIL 10W-40 kv is .1309 square in/sec @ 104 deg F (84.5 cSt) (worst case with cold oil)
kv is .0223 square in/sec @ 212 deg F (14.4 cSt)
(1 cSt = .001549 square in/sec)

v = (Q x 3.85)/(D x D x .785) = 26.11 in/sec
Where
v = velocity in inches per second (in/sec)
Q = flow rate in US gallons per minute (gpm)
D = inside diameter of pipe or hose in inches (in)

Re = (v x D) /(kv) = 149
where
Re = Reynolds Number
v = velocity in inches per second (in/sec)
D = inside diameter of pipe or hose in inches (inches)
kv = kinematic viscosity of fluid (at operating temperature) in square inches per sec (in squared/sec)

f = 64/Re = 64/149 = .429
Where
f = friction factor
Re = Reynolds Number < 2300

Pressure drop in oil line
Δp = v x v x f x L x ρ)/(2xDxg) = (26.1 x 26.1 x .429 x 36 x .0318)/(1.5 x 386)

Where
Δp = pressure drop in lbs/square inch (psi)
v = velocity inches per second (in/sec)
f = friction factor
L = length of pipe or hose inches (in)
ρ = density of the fluid in lbs per cubic inch (.0314-.0322 lbs/in cubed for hydraulic oil)
D = inside diameter of pipe or hose inches (in)
g = 386 in/sec squared (Gravitational acceleration)

= .577psi (using .75 inch ID hose at 2,300 engine rpm, cold start).
= 2.79 psi (using .5 inch ID hose at 2,300 engine rpm, cold start ).
= 1.7 psi (using .75 inch ID hose at 7,000 engine rpm, cold start).
= 8.8 psi (using .5 inch ID hose at 7,000 engine rpm, cold start).
= .29 psi (using .75 inch ID hose at 7,000 engine rpm, hot).
= 1.5 psi (using .5 inch ID hose at 7,000 engine rpm, hot).
Oil pump flow is 1.3 gpm per engine 1,000 rpm using the gerotor pump in the LT5 engine.

These oil flow rates through the oil filter housing are assuming the Oil Pressure Regulation Valve is not opening . An open Oil Pressure Regulation Valve would let some oil bypass back to the oil pan without going through the oil filter housing while maintaining 50 psi - 60 psi Oil Pressure.

As can be seen, one should use .75 inch ID hose for this application at the higher rpms and cold starts.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f64bf4eca8.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ef902ac4c8.jpg



Background Tech Info – Pressure Drop In Oil Lines for the LT5

Oil Pressure Restriction

The largest restriction in oil flow (what you see on the oil pressure gauge) is the head loss once the oil reaches the main bearings and camshafts. That is the largest restriction that maintains oil pressure at the gauge.

If the oil filter becomes clogged, the oil filter bypass valve will open reducing the excessive oil filter head loss restriction if that restriction becomes appreciable. The oil flow is determined by the total head loss after the pump. Keep in mind the Oil Pressure Regulation Valve (OPRV) located just after oil pump opens at a pressure of 50-60 psi. This OPRV is prolly always open a bit (especially on a cold start). The oil pump has more volume capability than that volume of oil flowing through the oil filter housing when the oil is of high viscosity, or the oil pump is operating at high rpm.

As oil heats up and becomes less viscous the oil pressure drops a bit with the oil flow through the oil filter housing prolly reaching full volumetric capacity of the oil pump with the total head loss decreasing below the 50-60 psi OPRV setting (especially at low oil pump rpms). As you increase engine rpm and oil pump rpm, the volumetric capacity of the oil pump will increase prolly above a 50-60 psi head loss limit and the OPRV will again open. This all depends on temperatures of oil and resulting oil viscosity as well as initial oil viscosity. This also depends on oil viscosity breakdown with use and condition of main bearings and camshafts journals/cam covers.

Lets say I add head loss (5 psi) by adding more restrictive oil lines. Keep in mind the total head loss the pump will see is 50 psi (50-60 psi) or it will bypass flow through the OPRV. Now if I add 5 psi at the oil lines, the head loss at the main bearings and camshafts has to decrease 5 psi so the total head loss remains matched to the allowable 50 psi. The only way that will happen is if I decrease oil flow to the main bearings and camshafts. So I decrease oil flow a bit and decrease head loss in my oil lines as well as the main bearings with a bit more oil going through the OPRV. It is an iterative process as you can see because when I decreased oil flow through the oil filter housing I went a bit below my assumed 5 psi head loss in my new oil lines.

You start out with about 50-60 psi just after the pump. So......I wanted to maintain the original oil flow with minimal oil flow reduction due to additional head loss in hoses between the oil filter adapter and relocated dual oil filters.

I run oil filter relocation on a Toyota Tacoma which I had to do because of the near impossibility of removing that oil filter without removing the engine pan beneath it (and what a mess as that engine pan got its fair share of oil every oil change). I tipped that oil filter upright at the new location just behind the radiator at about the height of the radiator drain plug. When I remove that relocated oil filter, I get just a bit of oil down the sides of the oil filter as I spin it off (all of which drips into the oil drain pan). That works great and I did some calculations on that system also determining the oil flow was nearly unaltered as the head loss in the added oil filter relocation hoses I used was minimal. The key is to use larger SS braided hose (most use 8AN and better oil filter relocation systems use 10AN (I am using 12AN).

Last UPDATE of post 206 Dec, 2017

Tech Info - RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp) Calculations
 

Tech Info - RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp) Calculations

I use RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp). You would use RC 225s for 650 hp or more.

Some Injector Calculatons
Assuming .5 lbs fuel per hour per Hp (BSFC or Brake Specific Fuel Consumption for non-turbocharged engines)....

Lbs fuel per hour per injector = (Hp x BSFC)/(Number of Injectors x .80) where 80% is duty cycle.

(500 x .50)/(16 x .80) = 19.53 lbs/hr (per injector) or 205.06 cc/min

RC 205 Injectors are rated at 43.5 psi fuel pressure.
Hp rating for RC 205s would be....

(20 lbs/hr x .80% duty)/.50 BSFC = 32 hp/injector or 512 hp for sixteen injectors.

Flow Rate - CC's:
205 CC's / MIN @ 43.5 PSI
Flow Rate - LB's:
20 LBS / HR @ 43.5 PSI
Resistance:
12.5 Ohms @ 68 F
Voltage:
8-15 Volts, nominal 13.5 Volts
Amperage:
1.0 Amps
Pressure:
Min 30 PSIG / Max 100 PSIG

RC Injectors

Last UPDATE of post 207 July, 2012

Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing
 

Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing

See:
LT5 Camshaft Specifications and Camshaft General Timing (pinning)
LT5 Camshaft Specific Timing (degree wheel)
LT5 Camshaft Timing Additional Tricks

1. Camshaft General Timing by Pinning.

a. Set the camshaft timing relatively close using the pinning method (using a 15/64 drill bit as a pin).
b. Use Cylinder #1 for drivers side bank and Cylinder #6 for passenger side bank.
c. Install Timing Chain temporary manual tensioners.

Use Jeffvette Billet Aluminum Camshaft Retainers which will remain in place after camshaft timing is complete.

To start the cam timing process rotate the crankshaft to the 51 deg mark on the front pulley aligned with "0" on timing plate (degree wheel installed on front crankshaft pulley).
Keep in mind that this discussion is for the Drivers side Heads. For the Passenger side Heads use cylinder number 6 instead of cylinder number 1 when setting the camshaft timing using the degree wheel with the method of finding maximum cam lift. TDC for cylinder number 6 will be 360 deg from cylinder number 1. 114 deg ATDC IN and 110 deg BTDC EX will be related to the TDC of cylinder number 6..

Install all cams in the neutral position (no lifters being compressed) using the Billet Aluminum (oiled) Camshaft Retainers with Torx bolts tightened (89 in-lbs) with loctite 262.

Looking at the front of the engine toward the rear so clockwise is normal engine rotation from that perspective.

Rotate exhaust camshafts to insert a 15/64 drill bit as a pin into the pinning hole in exhaust camshafts (hole in front camshaft Retainer). Pin counterclockwise one pin hole to allow for 110 deg BTDC EX. Rotate intake camshafts to insert 15/64 drill bit as a pin into the pinning hole in intake camshafts (hole in front camshaft Retainer) as that should be close to 114 deg ATDC IN.

The Pinning Method will get you close to these timing numbers (110 deg BTDC EX and 114 deg ATDC IN). Fine tuning the camshaft timing for a ported engine (for example), use the degree wheel and a dial gauge on the lifters for the additional fine camshaft timing adjustments. See step 5c of LT5 Camshaft Timing Additional Tricks

Rotate the camshaft sprockets counterclockwise against the chain, and then set vernier plate pin in "next" hole clockwise where the pin might fit. Then tighten a bit the camshaft bolts such that the "flat" of the camshaft is counterclockwise tight against the flat of the vernier plate which was rotated clockwise (holding a 19 mm box wrench on the rear end of the camshaft).

Use Loctite 262 on the camshaft bolt, and lubricate both sides of the washer. Tighten to 19 ft lbs and then mark a straight line and then proceed to tighten (Stretch) the bolt another 80-85 degrees (while holding a 19 mm box wrench on the other end of the camshaft).

After the camshaft timing is set, Remove the manual chain tensioners and install the factory hydraulic chain tensioners set in travel position. Give the chain tensioners a tap to activate each tensioner.

Last UPDATE of post 208 Feb, 2013

Tech Info - LT5 Timing Diagrams
 

Tech Info - LT5 Timing Diagrams

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cb9462d72a.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3e826d4065.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 209 Dec, 2017

Tech Info - L98 Frisbee Horsepower
 

Tech Info - L98 Frisbee Horsepower

There has been lots of discussion regarding elimination of the Frisbee (The flat plate bolted to front of water pump pully).
Calculations of Horsepower gained by elimination of the Frisbee are included herein.

1. Background.
Originally Posted by rodj
From the CF Tech pages

"During a Q & A session at Corvettes at Carlisle 2001, I posed the question to Gordon Kellebrew as to the purpose of the "frisbee". His response was that this disk was added by GM in 1988 to absorb vibrations when the A/C compressor turned On/Off. He said that they later found that this caused the serpentine belt to chirp upon sudden changes in engine speed and so it eventually removed from engines in later years."

2. Frisbee physical characteristics.
Frisbee measurements are 8.5 inches (.71 ft) in diameter (.35 ft radius) and 3.6 lbs. Weight is concentrated a bit on outer ring which I will not consider in these calculations.

3. Moment of Inertia.
Moment of Inertia I = 1/2 M x R x R
where M is mass in slugs (Weight/g) and R is radius in feet and I is moment of inertia in lbs divided by ft /sec^2 multiplied by ft^2or
lbs sec^2 ft (where ^ indicates power of or 2 is squared). g is acceleration of gravity or 32 ft/sec^2

4. Angular acceleration.
Angular acceleration is in Radians per sec^2 and there are 2 pi radians per revolution or 6.28 radians per revolution.

Our Frisbee weighs 3.6 lbs and is .71 foot diameter.
Moment of Inertia (I) would be (3.6 lbs/(2)(32) ft/sec^2) x .35 ft x .35 ft or .0069 lbs ft sec^2

Lets say our Frisbee rotates from 0 to 3,000 rpm in 1 second reving the engine in neutral.
3,000 rpm would be 18,840 radians per minute or 314 radians per second accelerated in 1 second or 314 radians per sec^2.

5. Torque.
Torque = Moment of Inertia multiplied by angular acceleration or .0069 lbs ft sec^2 multiplied by 314 radians per sec^2
Torque equals 2.166 ft lbs which is constant as the Frisbee accelerates assuming the angular acceleration is constant.

6. Horsepower to accelerate the Frispee in rotation (Angular Acceleration).
To get HP which is variable as the Frisbee accelerates angularily.....we will look at 3,000 rpm. 3,000 rpm is 314 radians per second as above. There is 550 ft lbs per second in one HP.

HP = angular velocity multiplied by Torque.
We have 314 radians per second multiplied by 2.166 ft lbs or 680 ft lbs per second which is approximately 1.23 hp (680/550) which is the horsepower generated at the angular velocity of 3,000 rpm as the Frisbee is still accelerating angularily.

7. Comments and additional considerations.
So the only way you get that high an angular acceleration of the Frisbee is reving the engine in neutral. Also keep in mind you have several other pullies with angular acceleration at different rpms depending on their diameters. And keep in mind a couple of those pulleys (Air, Power Steering, Alternator and Water Pump) may have a torque resistance because they are doing work during constant rpms.

Also keep in mind you have ONE BIG Pulley (flywheel) which sees the same kind of angular acceleration as the rather heavy Harmonic Balancer on the front of the crankshaft. A bit different angular acceleration than the Frisbee because the pully diameters are different than the primary driving pully (Harmonic Balancer).

8. Summary of Frisbee Horsepower waste.
So for first go around spinning the Frisbee from zero to 3,000 rpm or 314 radians per second in one second with a required torque of 2.166 ft lbs we would have 680 ft lbs per second or 1.23 hp which is the horsepower generated at the angular velocity of 3,000 rpm as the Frisbee is still accelerating angularily :yesnod:

9. Test Ride and confirmation of possible Frisbee elimination issues.
Eliminated Frisbee and Eliminated Air Induction Pump.
A test ride in a 90' L98 going from zero to 100 mph with Air Compressor on and off several times I found as the Air Compressor engaged a little bit of surge hardly noticeable.

No other indications regarding water pump vibration, pulley chirps when Air Compressor engaged and disengaged were noticed during the test drive up to speeds of 100 mph.

The Air Pump had been eliminated several months before Frisbee elimination and although the Air Pump elimination was not the focus herein, this road test does confirm Frisbee and Air Pump elimination function well together without any associated engine issues. TPiS Air Pump Elimination Kit

1990 Corvette (L98) Performance
1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...aa22f2dab6.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9437b868fb.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...af87d94eae.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 210 Dec, 2017

Tech Info - LT5 Coolant Flow Calculations
 

Tech Info - LT5 Coolant Flow Calculations

An attempt will be made here to show that the coolant flow velocity in the coolant pipes that may contain air will self evacuate air due to the high flow rate of coolant. In other words a bubble of air cannot travel backwards in the flow at the coolant and will be pushed with the coolant to the radiator. Once Air is evacuated to the top of the radiator the air remains on top and the accumulated air evacuates through the vent on the passenger top side of the radiator back to the pressurized coolant reservoir sitting at the highest point in the coolant system just in front of the passenger side under the hood.

1. Coolant Flow.
Centrifugal Water Pump is assumed to deliver flow in direct proportion to its rotation speed. The calculatons assume the thermostast has thermally opened allowing free flow of water through the radiator.

When first starting the engine, coolant recirculates through the engine only and even though air is self evacuated as described below, the evacuated air does NOT get to the top of the radiator untill the engine/coolant is warmed to operating temperature with thermostat open for radiator flow.

2. Water Pump Flow Characteristics.
1. 11 gpm at 900 rpm
2. 61 gpm at 5,000 rpm
3. 85 gpm at 7,000 rpm


Thermostat/Cooling Discussion

3. Thermostat Bypass to protect radiator.
Coolant pressure (as the water pump spins faster the coolant pressure increases) forces the bypass to open at around 5,000 rpm so max flow through radiator is a bit over 61 gpm (lets assume 65 gpm). The 65 gpm maximum flow through the radiator keeps the radiator at a stable pressure.

The two IH coolant manifolds have pipe inside diameters of 1.25 inch or a cross sectional area of 1.3 square inches each.
A water pump flow rate of 65 gpm would be 15,014 cubic inches per minute or 250 cubic inches per second flow rate or 125 cubic inches per second in each IH coolant manifold pipe. The coolant velocity in each IH coolant manifold pipe would then be 125 cubic inches per second/1.3 square inches = 96 inches per second or 8 ft per second.

Before the thermostat opens back to engine at 5,000 rpm all the coolant flow moves through the single pipe back to the top of the radiator. This single pipe has a cross sectional area of 1.3 square inches also. The Coolant velocity in that single pipe would be 250 cubic inches per second/1.3 square inches = 192 inches per second or 16 ft per second.

At an engine rpm of 2500 the coolant flow would be half and the coolant velocity in the coolant pipes would be half of that calculated above.

At idle (lets say 900 rpm) the coolant flow would be 11 gpm and coolant velocity in the two IH coolant manifold pipes would be 1.4 ft per second and for the single return pipe to the top side of the radiator the coolant velocity would be 2.8 ft per second.

4. Coolant System Self Air Evacuation.
What is significant here in these calculations is the coolant velocity and the speed at which a bubble of air (air pocket) would have to go against the flow to not be evacuated. It is impossible to imagine a bubble of air flowing by gravity up a slight incline from the top of the radiator to the top of the IH coolant manifolds at a speed of 1.4 ft per second. A bubble of air in a vertical test tube would not rise that fast in a column of water.

From these calculations it is concluded that once the water pump is void of air (either it is or isn't since a partially loaded with water impeller would move that water and entrapped air outward sucking in more water), any air sitting elsewhere in the system will be forced to the top of the radiator by the coolant velocity.

5. The Air Locked Water Pump.
One has only to assure oneself that the water pump does get flooded with water which may take several pumping cycles adding water each time to the top radiator hoses and allowing water to seep through a closed thermostat back upwards to the water pump filling the water pump void.

See for the exception of the Air Locked Water Pump Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump

An anology might help explain. Take an empty quart jar and tip it upside down and lower it into a bucket of water. The jar remains full of air even though the water surrounding the jar is much higher. Now tip the jar a bit and see some bubbles rise from the bottom end. You will now see the water level in the jar has come up a bit but there is still a lot of air inside the jar. Your water pump empeller is in that jar.

Last UPDATE of post 211 Sep, 2013

Calculating Alternator Pulley Diameter
 

Calculating Alternator Pulley Diameter

Starting with diameter of belt surface on Harmonic Balancer to convert rpm to surpentine belt speed we can calculate Alternator rpm depending on Alternator Pulley diameter.

The Harmonic Balancer diameter is 7-1/8 inch to outer lip (90' ZR1). The surpentine belt riding surface is about 1/8 in less radius so surpentine belt riding surface diameter would be 6-7/8 inches (6.875 inches).

If the alternator puts out 150 amp max and 120 amp at idle....the question is at what rpms is alternator spinning when the engine is idling at 850 rpm with a surpentine belt speed of 18,349 inches per minute. (6.875 inches x 3.14) in per rev x 850 rpm = 18,349 inches per minute.

My alternator pully is about 68mm (2.7 inches) diameter (I just bought two new alternator pulleys yesturday).

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cbf7c065b7.jpg

At a Surpentine Belt speed (idle) of 18,349 inches per minute, that alternator would be spinning at (18,349 inches per minute)/(2.7 inches x3.14) = 2,164 rpm (alternator spin rate) at idle (engine idle speed 850 rpm).

Or...just divide the Harmonic Balancer Diameter by the Alternator Pulley Diameter and multiply by engine idle speed to get Alternator Idle speed.

So the question might be at what Alternator idle speed the alternator still puts out the current needed to keep up with ZR1 current usage at idle (assuming you are not sitting there with head lights on at idle). Size that alternator pulley accoringly and then see what the maximum alternator rpm might be at 7,000 rpm engine speed (making sure you are not overspinning the alternator).

If you are overspinning the alternator and do that often, get a larger alternator pulley and suffer the consequences when sitting at a stop light with lights on loosing battery charge as your alternator cannot keep up with current load.

After figuring out the alternator pulley size required, get a surpentine belt length accordingly.

Last UPDATE of post 212 Dec, 20147

Technical Calculations Reserved 1

Last UPDATE of post 213 Sep, 2015

Technical Calculations Reserved 2

Last UPDATE of post 214 Sep, 2015

Camshaft Compression of Lifter
 

Camshaft Compression of Lifter

I know from an experience that the cam tips are not parallel with the Lifter surface on the LT5 engine. (Cam Tip being the high "edge" of the Cam that gives the Lifter maximum compression).
The localized pressure on the lifter must be very difficult to determine in that case....

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c24529c641.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...743514fa8c.jpg

I assume the cam tip being tilted and off center on the Lifter surface keeps the lifter rotating. The lifter rotating under the cam acts like a rolling intersection (not purely frictional). The surface of the Lifter is moving vertically and horizontaly as the Cam Tip slides/rolls across the Lifter. (It is hard to imagine this happening up to 60 times a second).

The Cam Wear on the tips can be seen on the Cams pictured above.

A little more detail on Oil/Zinc/Cam Wear from Hib Halverson........:cheers::cheers:

Oil/Zinc/Cam Wear Part 1

Oil/Zinc/Cam Wear Part 2

Last UPDATE of post 215 Sep, 2022

Eliminated Systems and Added Systems
 

Tech Info - LT5 Eliminated Systems
The LT5 runs perfectly with all that is eliminated described here.
Marc Haibeck has addressed all items in a modified Low 87 Octane and a High 91 Octane Chip.

1. Eliminating Secondary Throttles/shafts.

Install Dorman freeze plugs 555-108 with Loctite 262 to plug the secondary shaft ports for a complete elimination of Secondary throttle shafts and associated vacuum canisters (90 Heads on Left and 91 Heads on right) .

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0d064df814.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...082aa63327.jpg

2. Eliminating Secondary Throttle Vacuum system.

There are two vacuum sources (Electric Vacuum pump and Plenum).

Remove everything except the diagnostic vacuum sensor that is located under the ECM. The sensor is connected electrically and the hose nipple open to the atmosphere. Remove all of the vacuum lines, the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir, the solenoid valve and the electric vacuum pump. Use Marc Haibeck CHIP's Marc Haibeck

Secondary Vacuum System
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...32fa512d44.jpg

Diagnostic Vacuum Sensor

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b42ab558ee.jpg

There are two vacuum check valves under the plenum (one connected to HVAC tank and one connected to Secondary vacuum reservoir). The check valve connected to HVAC tank (via the "Y" cited below for Eliminating Air Induction System) remains in position connected to passenger side source of plenum vacuum and connected to the HVAC vacuum line in the harness to rear of plenum.

The check valve connected to the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir and drivers side source of plenum vacuum can be capped off since the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir is eliminated. This is shown in the Eliminating TB coolant system picture below.

3. Cruise Control/HVAC and EVAP Purge System.

The Cruize Control/HVAC Vacuum is taken from the passenger side of plenum. From there one vacuum line goes to the Cruize Control under ECM/Brake Cruize Vacuum Release (one line) and the second line goes to the HVAC System through the passenger side Fuel Injector Wire Harness (second line). The Vacuum line to the Cruize Control includes the Cruize Control Vacuum Reservoir under Drivers side Headlight which is left in place. The other vacuum hose connected to the Cruize Control is for the brake pedal cruise cancel function.

The EVAP Purge system (1991 ZR1) draws vacuum from under front of Plenum and through the Solenoid valve. When the Solenoid valve is activated, vacuum is directed out the right side under Plenum back along the passenger side frame rail to the Charcoal Canister directly behind the Passenger Side rear wheel. The 1990 ZR1 Charcoal Canister is located under the Drivers Side Headlight. (Vacuum for the 1990 Charcoal Canister is taken from the drivers side front of Plenum as well as a vacuum line from beneath the front of the Plenum. See Vacuum Systems 90' and 91' (Secondary and Cruize/HVAC)

Cruize Control and HVAC Vacuum System

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...62f7397af7.jpg

EVAP Purge Vacuum System (1991) with Solenoid

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...adae7ffe38.jpg

Marc and Pete suggested to eliminate the EVAP Purge circuit completely and capping off that vacuum source under front of plenum. I just replaced my charcoal canister and Marc says he does not address that removal in the chip as it has no effect. I left that associated vacuum and electrical connection including the Evap Purge solenoid in place under the plenum.

This discussion and photo is for a 1991 which has the Charcoal Canister just to the rear of the passenger side rear wheel. The 1990 has the charcoal canister under the drivers side head light so the Vacuum Connections for Charcoal Canister are different as well as the vacuum lines which for the 1990 you will not find the large loop for charcoal canister under the Plenum. You will find the Plenum Nipple (Purge Vacuum Connection) on the 1990 is straight out of the plenum rather than angling back under the Plenum. On a 1990 you will also find a vacuum nipple angling back under the plenum from the Air Horn which provides vacuum depending on throttle position to the Purge Canister Control valve under the Drivers Side Head Light (1990 only).

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...12777564f6.jpg

4. Eliminating Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system.

See this link for TB Coolant Blocking drilling and threading details Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking

Install 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plugs (21/64 or 11/32 drill) two each side of Plenum (Two each TB Coolant and Injector Housing (IH) Coolant) as shown (The associated two IH coolant ports in the IH should also be plugged on each side). Total six coolant ports plugged One each side TB, One each side Plenum, One each side Injector Housing.

Or as you like....just install the two 1/8 NPT Aluminum pipe plugs in the Injector Housings as shown.

Photo by Ccmano

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...edc6a5e986.jpg

Remove Plenum and Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing (LT5 will have TB Coolant Blocked but Undetected and engine appears stock). This will require you insert a plug in the Coolant Return Line on the Passenger side of the Plenum (the only TB Coolant Hose that requires a hose clamp).

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1895d65135.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3e7e519af3.jpg

See Summit Racing 1/8 inch Aluminum Pipe Plugs for Aluminum Pipe Plugs. When you install the plugs.....keep trying the plugs as you tap to make sure the final installation is about flush or out 1/16 inch and use Permatex on the plugs.. The Injector Housing Plug must be FLUSH however.

Remove TB Coolant hose and tubing left and right side of plenum and plug hose return to coolant tank passenger side See Brass Cap just above the "T" on Passenger Side. Initial Coolant Fill may be somewhat affected by the TB Coolant Elimination (see item #4 Initial Coolant Fill). The "T" connects the top of the radiator Air Vent, TB Coolant Return, and Coolant Reservoir in front of Passenger side. With the TB Coolant Return Blocked, what is left is a coolant line from the Radiator Air Vent to the Passenger Side Coolant Reservoir. See (Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump) for Detailed New Coolant Filling Trick.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...292b923bc1.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3ba3c80be7.jpg

A brass nipple that fits tight inside the rubber hose with a male 1/4 inch pipe thread and a 1/4 inch Brass pipe thread cap (female thread) ;)

I left about 2 or 3 inches of rubber hose above the "T" that connects (did connect) the TB vent, Radiator top vent, and Coolant surge container in front of passenger side (the highest point in the LT5 Coolant System).

Note 1: The TB coolant path back to the passenger side overflow tank does provide a path for air and potential air lock to return to that passenger side tank during initial coolant fill. However, the Plenum to TB coolant hose sits only an inch or so above the IH coolant manifolds on the passenger side so the benefit of using that path to bleed air vice the top of the coolant manifolds to the radiator is very small. Marc has decided to bypass the TB coolant (vice eliminate all TB coolant hoses) leaving that coolant path back to the passenger side overflow tank in place to assure issues would not arrise on rebuilds for those unaware of coolant initial filling and water pump potential air locks.

Note 2: Air Pockets as a result of TB Coolant Elimination Tricks. See (Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump) for Detailed New Coolant Filling Trick.

The 5th plug (Plenum Vacuum) is for Plenum Vacuum drivers side only which was connected to the vacuum reservoir. The tubing can be removed and a 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plug inserted exactly like the plenum coolant plugs.

a. When you run the tap....keep checking the pipe plug for depth so you end up tight and flush.
b. When you run the Drill.......remember you are in ALUMINUM so go very easy and slow!!! (you can do it without a drill press).
c. Use a bit of Permatex gasket sealer or Teflon tape on the pipe plugs.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2ea6024019.jpg

5. Eliminating Air Injection system.

The Air Injection System including the Air Pump has been eliminated (especially for those who are installing Headers). Associated with the Air Injection system is one vacuum line on the drivers side fender skirt above the shock tower. I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" in front of "T" about 3 inches and plugged the "Y" back in where the "T" was. This modification maintains the Cruise Control Vacuum and the associated Vacuum to the Cruise Control Vacuum Reservoir under the Drivers Side Headlight.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4e6a87b196.png

6. Eliminating Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Pipe and added Oil Catch Can.
See Details for Oil Catch Can Installation

The PCV pipe along the plenum drivers side from PCV valve at rear of Plenum to Plenum Vacuum at front of Plenum eliminated. Stainless steel braided hose is used from the PCV valve at rear of plenum to Oil Catch Can (LT5 Added Systems) and then on to the Plenum Vacuum.

The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The MAP sensor (located at rear of plenum) is connected to the rear of plenum (Vacuum source).

7. Eliminating Stock Exhaust (installing SW Headers).

SW Offroad Headers. As you know it is difficult to install headers with LT5 in the ZR1. With engine out I was able to install 14 of the 16 header bolts with locks (on each Header) in just a few minutes.

Installing the the LT5 with Headers Installed is easy if the LT5 is tilted to the rear considerably. The LT5 has to be prevented from rolling from side to side. Leave the Fuel Rails, Plenum, and Bell Housing OFF untill after the LT5 is installed in the ZR1.

1. You definitely need a load leveler (to UNLEVEL or tilt the LT5 to the rear).
2. You CANNOT use the standard lift eyes for the LT5 because as you load UNLEVEL (Tilt engine to the rear) the engine rotates if you lift LT5 on diagonals.
3. You have to lift with nylon straps around Flywheel (rear) and around Harmonic Balancer (front). Actually around more stuff on front.
4. You have to remove the A/C Temperature sensor cover (passenger side firewall) and Wiper Motor (Drivers side firewall).
See How to Replace the Wiper Motor.
5. You DO NOT have to remove the hood and the ZR1 can sit on the level.

A/C Temp Sensor........................Wiper Motor.............Do NOT use standard Lift Eyes installing LT5 with Headers

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...24eb2a57d6.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0323a059d1.jpg
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Installing Headers
Installing Engine In ZR1
Lifting The LT5

Last UPDATE of post 216 Dec, 2017

Tech Info - Marc Haibeck on LT5 Eliminated Secondaries and Associated Anomalies
 

Tech Info - Marc Haibeck on LT5 Eliminated Secondaries and Associated Anomalies

Marc Haibeck has a Custom Chip for the elimination of the Secondaries
as well as Custom Chips for any Year and Modification on the LT5. Marc Haibeck Chips/Custom Calibrations

A. Marc Haibeck mentioned to me some time ago....Haibeck Automotive Technology
Removing the secondaries is not a bad idea.

Marc dyno tested removing the secondary throttles and found no significant changes.

Marc suggested there are three situations where removing the secondaries are useful.
1. If you are having a problem with them that you can't fix, they can be eliminated.
2. If you can't find a repair part.
3. If you have removed them to port the heads, you can save time and not reinstall them.

Marc also mentioned that removing the secondaries does not effect the idle, fuel economy or torque over 1500 rpm. Having the secondaries in place might be an advantage for an emission test. See item C below.

Further, with the elimination of the secondary port throttle control the engine idles on the primary injector only. When the main throttle is opened to about 1/2% or more the secondary fuel injector activates. This usually happens while the clutch is being slipped to drive away, typically the engine is running on both fuel injectors before the clutch fully engages. Once the throttle is more than 1/2% open the flow split between the primary and secondary injectors is the same as the OE value of 50%-50% and in sync with each other.

I might also mention eliminating the associated vacuum system and secondary cannisters gets rid of a lot of potential failures later on and makes for a clean looking LT5 installation.

B. Eliminating the air injection system may have ramifications in regard to a SMOG check depending which State you reside. I have also eliminated the original Exhaust Manifolds and CATS which would be required in some States for SMOG check success.

C. The Role of the Oxygen Sensor causing Hesitation issues unrelated to the Haibeck Chips or Elimination of Secondaries.

Marc ran into an anomaly associated with Oxygen Sensors that may cause Hesitation related to fueling.

RockAuto Bosch 13077 Oxygen Sensors
Jerry's Oxygen Sensors

Engine Hesitation with Haibeck Chip TIPS

Last UPDATE of post 217 Oct, 2014

Tech Info - LT5 Added Systems
 

Tech Info - LT5 Added Systems

Note the Gun Metal Oil Cap on passenger side.
Ebay Aluminum billet oil cap (fits 90' & 91' LT5 & L98)
May require dressing up the threads just a bit with a file but the threads of the cap are the same.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...041c4352f2.jpg

Items 1 - 6 are Added to ALL engines.

1. 91' ZR1 (LT5) Debree Screen.
Use 1/8 inch steel pop rivets with washers backside of air deflector and on front of screen
(approximately 5/16 inch mesh). Drill 1/8 inch holes in the rubberized air deflector.
Use cable ties on top side of screen.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9eaf2dcca2.jpg

2. Differential case drain installation
Installed an aftermarket Differential Case Drain Plug for easy fluid change.
The kit is available from Corvette Central

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c74d8eab93.jpg

The kit provides a template that puts the hole just left of the center bolt in the valley of the differential.
Original Photos provided by Scrrem on another topic with Red notes added.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8313e5e023.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a416366a59.jpg

The tap size is 1/8-27 pipe and it installs easily with drill (11/32) and tap supplied in the kit.

I drilled the bottom flange just under the ring gear and let the old fluid drain (which drained in about 10 minutes). I then tapped the drilled hole for the 1/8 inch allen pipe plug. When you tap the hole, try the pipe plug several times as you tap so you end up with the pipe plug out maybe 1/16 inch when tight .

I pumped in a pint of Mobile 1 75W-90 and let that drain cleaning out a lot of old oil and any tap debris. 1/8 inch Aluminum Allen Head NPT pipe plugs

I inserted the 1/8 inch allen pipe plug and pumped in a bit over 3 pints of Mobile 1 75W-90 into the fill port on the North side of the differential (Z facing West)

The Differential case can be COMPLETELY drained and flushed with new oil using this method as compared to trying to suck out the old oil.

3. PCV Connectors.
In addition to the Oil Catch Can, new PCV dual connectors have been added replacing the old connectors.

Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector
Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Hose
Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Grommet

I installed Jerry's New Dual PCV Connectors on ALL engines getting rid of all the Clap Trap Nylon Ties and Hose Clamps to keep the Old (hardened Rubber) Dual PCV connectors from slipping off the connectors or leaking Highly Recommended :thumbs:
Right up near Top Of List with Blocking TB Coolant at each Injector Housing.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...41c07d1d21.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...922438fdc9.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4c0f60adcb.jpg

Along with the PCV Upgrades is the raised Plug Wires from Injector Housing Bolt to Plenum Bolt on ALL engines. This allows the Dual PCV Connector to be attached in front of and at the same location as the Plug Wires and above the Cam Covers A Very Clean Installation lifting the Plug Wires OFF the Cam Covers.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...415e267404.jpg

4. Starter Relay Tricks Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks

See Item #2 Electrical Ground Connections and Installing Starter Relay

60 / 80 AMP RELAY SPDT SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW NEW 654
Installed under ECM and in slot between brake booster and fire wall (perfect place for location of Relay).

Wiring modified a bit to assure Pin #87a is not hot at any time.
Pin #30: Purple wire to starter (use 3/8 inch connector on relay).
Pin #87: Red wire battery positive 12v use 3/8 inch connector on relay (connected to battery positive multiple connection post).
Pin #86: Battery ground (1/4 inch connector on relay connected to ground where battery 12 gauge wire grounded).
Pin #85: Purple wire from ECM use 1/4 inch connector on relay (Red wire on early 1990 ZR-1).
Pin #87a: Not hot at any time and not used.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1479f32a20.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3965094d4a.jpg

Insert a short 1/2 inch long section of plastic hose
over the center connector on the Relay which is NOT
used in this application.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...01082c84f2.jpg

5. SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines

See SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...48ce499b32.jpg


Items A, B, and C shown below are Added to Some Engines.

A. Oil Catch Can has been added.
See Details for Oil Catch Can Installation

-=Jeff=- was one of the first I think Oil Catch Can Photo

The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected using SS braided hose to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The Oil Catch Can is located on the drivers side inside wheel well (using a small channel ground and drilled to conform to the inside fender well as a spacer).

The Oil Catch Can used here is the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can
(I use wing nuts for quick Catch Can Maintenance)

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b744f4551c.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...11644b5071.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...df310d43d8.jpg

B. SS Air Box.
See Stainless Steel Air Box and Air Filter (L98 and LT5) For installation details including the proper K&N Air Filter.


C. Reground Camshafts and ....................2. Oil Pressure Sensor Modification.
Billet Aluminum Camshaft Retainers............The oil pressure sensor has been modified
LT5 Camshaft Specifications........................by adding a brass T fitting which can also
........................................ ........................be used to attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1a5a57055a.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f9ca3d8e87.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 218 June, 2019

Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can Installation Details
 

Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can Installation Details.

1. General.

See for background information LT5 PCV System

The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected using SS braided hose to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The Oil Catch Can is located on the drivers side inside wheel well (using a small channel ground and drilled to conform to the inside fender well as a spacer).

The Oil Catch Can used here is the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can
(I use wing nuts for quick Catch Can Maintenance)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1f1aa1509.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1c740538f6.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...27ec061aa9.jpg

2. Plenum Connections.

The Oil Catch Can is attached to the Plenum PCV Vacuum port connector shown (the 12 inch SS Braided hose with hose clamp).
The fuel tank EVAP purge system goes through the electrical switch control under the plenum (shown) and out the passenger side back under the passenger side frame rail on a 91' having the Charcoal Canister on the passenger side behind the rear tire. The 90' Purge
Connection comes straight out and is connected to the Charcoal Canister located under the drivers side Headlight.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b12186a292.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9a9c031563.jpg

3. Oil Catch Can Parts.

The two hose fittings are (Hose End, Swivel, 90 Degree, 6 AN Hose to Male 1/4 in. NPT, Aluminum, Nickel) and the 1/4 NPT is screwed into the Oil Catch Can 1/4 inch NPT threaded holes Swivel, 90 Degree, 6 AN Hose to Male 1/4 in. NPT

On the other ends of the SS Braided hoses install 6 AN Straight Hose Ends which fit into a 5/16 short rubber hose connected to the Front Drivers Side Plenum PCV fitting and into the PCV Dual Connector behind the Plenum (two fittings required).

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c5371c16e.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0dcba61fd7.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cb4a4fccc2.jpg
The hose is 6-AN Summit Racing SS Braided hose 6 AN SS Braided Hose. The Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can does not come with the fittings cited herein. Replace the fittings of the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can with the two SS 90 deg 6 AN to Male 1/4 NPT pipe fittings cited herein.

The short SS Braided Hose section connected to the Plenum PCV vacuum is 12 inches long. The longer SS Braided Hose section connected to the PCV connector is 24 inches long. A brass 5/16 inch diameter nipple is plugged into the black PCV stock connector shown. The other end of the 5/16 inch diameter nipple is plugged into the SS 6-AN hose with hose clamp (as shown).

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...642002ec83.jpg

The two 6 AN Straight Hose Ends which fit into a 5/16 short rubber hose connected to the Front Drivers Side Plenum PCV fitting and into the PCV Dual Connector behind the Plenum (two fittings required) are not shown in the photo above.

4. Mounting of Oil Catch Can to Fender.

The Oil Catch Can is mounted on the Drivers side Fender using two Allen Head 8mm x 1.25 bolts (1-1/4 inch long) with Wing Nuts and washers on the outside of the fender well.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6af72006cb.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bb9bb06e29.jpg

The bracket adapter (to which the Oil Catch Can Hanger is mounted) is made from a 1-1/2 x 1/2 inch channel 5-1/2 inches long with the flanges ground to fit contour of inside of fender well.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...96e13e7a6c.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6d7accbb91.jpg

5. Cruise Control and EVAP Purge System.

The Cruize Control Vacuum is taken from the passenger side of plenum. From there one vacuum line goes to the cruize control under ECM (one line) and the second line goes to the cruize control switch on steeringwheel column (second line).
The EVAP Purge system draws vacuum from under front of Plenum and through the Solenoid valve. When the Solenoid valve is activated, vacuum is directed out the right side under Plenum back along the passenger side frame rail to the fuel tank.

Cruize Control Vacuum System
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d83ef98cbd.jpg

EVAP Purge Vacuum System with Solenoid
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...77f7a7eb42.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 219 Dec, 2017

Hans Meyer Check List with Additional Comments
 

That is a great Check list with a couple comments

I Also Block TB Coolant at the Injector Housings making it super easy to remove Plenum without using anything on Plenum gaskets and not having to torque the Plenum SS Allen Head Bolts I install a bit over hand tight. I also install Starter Relay under the ECM (I think Paul started that great idea).

Also.....I install ALL new Fluids including original GM Green Coolant, Amsoil 10W40 Engine oil, Mobile 1 75W-90 Differential, and Castrol 10W-60 in the ZF S6-40 Transmisison (remove filler Allen Plug FIRST).

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0f5003d62d.jpg

Hans Meyer has pretty much covered everything and I would say a great list but do not get scared because Hans and myself are a bit perfectionists :D

Last UPDATE of post 220 Dec, 2017

Tech Info - LT5 New Rebuild Issues (Lifters, Camshafts, and Valves)
 

Tech Info - LT5 New Rebuild Issues (Lifters, Camshafts, and Valves)

Zero Compression as a result of Valve Stem Clearance, Hydraulic Lifter aberrations, and camshaft regrinds during engine rebuilds is discussed in several posts.

Post 2. Lifters
Post 3. Lifters and Valve Stem dimensions (reground valves)
Post 4. Valve Stem Clearance Measurement Tool
Post 5. Camshaft Measurements
Post 6. Valve Stem Clearance Measurements for Stock Valves and Regrind Camshaft
Post 7. Regrind Camshafts Performance
Post 8. BAD Z
Post 9. Reserved
Post 10. Valve Stem Clearance Measurements for Stock Valves and Stock Camshafts

The first thing to check is for locked hydraulic lifters. It may be as simple as the lifters are hydraulically locked extended (uncompressed) when they were installed which they usually will bleed down over time. If that is the case, recheck the compression at a later date to see if the lifters did in fact bleed down (that may not happen rapidly if there is already oil pumped around the lifter). Rotate the crankshaft/camshafts such that as many valves are open as possible and leave the engine sit in that condition to bleed down those associated lifters. The lifters will not extend (uncompress) past the base circle once bled down (valves will then completely close).

Associated issues are discussed in the posts cited above. There are also variations in lifter geometry (lifter unplunged height) also discussed. You can also reset the lifters by removing them and thrapping them smartly on a hard surface unseating the plunger.

You may be able to turn the engine over (hot wire starter) getting oil pressure to help reset the lifters (camshafts and camcovers installed) If the engine sits for several days, some of those lifters bleed down and are then pumped up during initial start up (but less likely a quick bleed down if you have had oil pressure around the lifter and the lifter has not failed in any way).

If the issue is lifters, you may have to remove camshafts....but not the heads....if the issue is valve stem lengths, you would have to remove the heads.

The posts cited above may help if the low compression issue is valve stem clearance, lifters, or camshafts geometry including reground valves and reground camshafts.

Last UPDATE of post 221 Feb, 2013

Lifters
 

Lifters

Lifters when first installed may be locked unplunged or fully extended. One theory is that when you remove the camshaft, some of those lifters suck in oil essentially pumping themselves fully extended. When you reinstall the camshafts you now have valves staying open unless you can remove the oil from the lifter before you install the camshafts. This is in addition to the valve stem height issue from a new valve job exceeding the lifter limits which no amount of lifter oil relief will solve. This is also in addition to the scheme where you do NOT mix lifter locations when reinstalling used lifters to protect yourself from lifter wear aberrations and lifter locked position aberrations.

Once you crank the engine or run the engine for a few minutes lifters will bleed down. But for those lifters which extended and locked themselves fully extended during camshaft removal it is an issue because now those valves will open farther than they should when you crank the engine for a few minutes.

BUT still another issue involves the existence of several variants of the same HT 2236 Sealed Power Lifter.
Lifter on left is STOCK (91' LT5), Lifter second right (identical to stock) is new made in Mexico, Lifter third right is new made in China, Lifter fourth right is new made in Mexico. I wonder for those who bought new lifters.....how many installed several different variants of the same lifter in a single head without knowing it. Prolly would work fine but just kind of messy mechanic work.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0eb9d59ccd.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d3248816f3.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...795e4be587.jpg

BUT...... all the lifters cited above (except the left lifter which is stock) come in Sealed Power HT 2236 boxes (some made in China and some made in Mexico).

Then there is the Melling JB 2236 which is identical to the stock lifter (left lifter) of the above lifters.
I measured the LC (Lifter Compression) or difference between maximum and minimum height of the stock lifter and found .120 inches.
Also measured LH (Lifter height) or maximum height of stock lifter (uncompressed from plunger to top of lifter) and found .800 inches.

There is a variance in Lifter Height and Lifter Compression among lifters.....

The Mellings JB2236 are identical to stock original Lifters as you can get.

I received 16 JB2236 Lifters today from Clark Discount (Type in JB2236 in the Search By Key Word). Perfect...exactly what I was looking for :thumbs:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...10fb3a57db.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...57b5707edc.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d11e431064.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b414a51bb1.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 222 Dec, 2017

Lifters and Valve Stem dimensions (reground valves)
 

Lifters and Valve Stem dimensions (reground valves)

Lifters can be compressed .120 fully loaded anything above that the lifter is totally plunged and will hang valves open. Cams take up .075 from base circle.

The Base circle is .075 above the main journals so when you bolt down the camshaft it will push the lifter down .075 plus the factory has the lifter set above the journal another .015 so a stock motor takes up .090 of the .120 leaving .030 for compression of the lifter to account for valve stem clearance apperations (valve regrind for example).

If you do one valve job you should be ok. If you do a second or third valve job or even a poor valve job the valve will sink into the seat which will bring the valve farther into the lifter bore. This will result in having to grind the valve stems to compensate for the valve seat changes.

If the valve seat is ground and the valve stem comes higher into the lifter bore (more than .035) the valves will hang open and will result in very low compression #'s.

All of the above is an easy fix by just grinding the valve stems. Be careful when grinding valve stems to make sure you don't take off too much not leaving enough valve stem above the retainer (at least .020-.025). If inadequate valve stem above the retainer, the lifter can knock the keepers out which will cause even bigger iisues.

Example Lifter and Valve Stem Clearance Measurements (Valves reground)
All dimensions are in inches. (Actual numbers for stock lifter in Dark Green).
LC.....(Lifter Compression) difference between maximum and minimum height of lifter typical .120.
LIP.....(Lifter initial compression) camshaft in neutral position .090 Stock setting.
LRP.....(Lifter remaining compression) compression of lifter to account for changes in valve stem position .030 Stock setting.
LH......(Lifter height) from plunger to top of lifter (not compressed). (.800 measured stock lifter).
VC......(Valve clearance) distance between valve stem and journal (valve closed). (.750 measured after valve recondition).
Preset.....Height of uncompressed lifter above journal typical .015. (measured .047 avg after valve reconditioned. Recommended .005).
PL......Preload is half the difference between journal diameter and camshaft base circle diameter typical .075. (.080 stock cam shaft).
An example after a valve regrind Preset=.047 is different than stock .015. Which Preset (.047 avg) is too much.
A Mellings JB 2236 lifter is very close in gemetry to the stock lifter (left lifter) in the photos in the post above .
The Mellings JB 2236 Lifter Height LH is .794

Last UPDATE of post 223 July, 2012

Valve Stem Clearance Measurement Tool
 

Valve Stem Clearance Measurement Tool

The Valve Stem Clearance Measurement Tool consists of a 14 inch aluminum round stock 1.140 diameter (all in inches) with a dial gage inserted at the center (with a countersunk set screw). This valve stem clearance measurement tool allows the measurement of valve stem clearance (shortest distance to journal surface) on the axis of the valve stem. The dial gage is set to zero on the journal surface. The aluminum round stock is lightly lubricated during the measurements.

Rotating the aluminum round stock valve stem clearance measurement tool in the journal slightly moving the tip of the dial gauge back and forth across the tip of the valve stem will give you a minimum valve stem clearance. The valve clearance to journal varies from the sides of the valve stem tip by .002 with minimum clearance at the center of the valve stem tip.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...038a2dbf99.jpg

The valve stem clearance is the shortest distance from the end of the valve stem to the bottom surface of the camshaft bearing journal

Once you set a zero at the journal, all 32 valve clearances can be measured in about 5 minutes. I have checked all valves several times and get within .001 each time checked so the measurements are very repeatable. The .001 variance depends on exactly where the dial gage plunger is set on top of the valve stem.

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements (Stock Llfters)

Zero at the journal.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3035f23ca8.jpg

Checking valve stem clearance.
The stock lifter height unplunged is .800. The maximum lifter plunge is .120. Camshaft base circle Preload is .080.
The example valve stem clearance as measured below to the journal is .739. The dial gage shows .261 which to get to 1.0 which is the zero setting above we would go .739.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2773f0be98.jpg

The lifter will Preset above the journal .800-.739 or .061 in this case. Adding Preset and camshaft Preload we get .136 which exceeds the maximum lifter plunge of .120. The valve will stay open. Lifter Preset is the height of the top of the lifter (unplunged) above the journal surface.

You may think you have extra clearance with the camshafts in the neutral position (using the stock retainers) being able to plung the lifter a tad. However, do not be mislead, when you install the camcovers, you loose that excess clearance the stock retainers provide and can end up with a valve in the open position.

Last UPDATE of post 224 Dec, 2017

Camshaft and Lifter Measurements (Stock and Regrind) all in inches
 

Camshaft and Lifter Measurements (Stock and Regrind) all in inches

Stock Camshafts
Journal diameter is 1.140.
Base circle is 1.300.
The Preload would be (1.300 - 1.140)/2 = .160/2 = .080 (read in reverse since extended)

Regrind Camshafts
Journal diameter is 1.140.
Base circle Intake cams is 1.150.
Base circle Exhaust cams is 1.220.
The Preload Intake cams would be (1.150 - 1.140)/2 = .010/2 = .005
The Preload Exhaust cams would be (1.220 - 1.140)/2 = .080/2 = .040

..........Stock Camshaft Journal Diameter.....................Stock Camshaft Preload

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c38a538058.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...80a1d9bf4e.jpg

Lifter internal depth of plunger is .271 (Mellings JB 2236) (read in reverse since extended). Lifter external height is 1.065 (Mellings JB 2236)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5593df9dca.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...946be48fe7.jpg

Difference or lifter height in contact with camshaft and valve stem is 1.065 - .271 = .794 (Mellings JB 2236) (Stock lifter is at .800)

Last UPDATE of post 225 Dec, 2017

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements For Regrind Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifter
 

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements for Stock Valves and Regrind Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ef4201523.jpg

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements for Regind Valves and Regrind Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ca86e0259.jpg

Valves can be remove using a (modified) Lowes Valve Compressor, Removing keys, and Adpter

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a12e7f9bb7.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c3338f665e.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 226 Dec, 2017

Regrind Camshafts Performance
 

Regrind Camshafts Performance

The sound says it all.....perfect :rock:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4ebf71937e.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 227 Dec, 2017

Bad z
 

BAD Z

1991 ZR-1 (LT5)

Marc Haibeck Chips (87 Octane and 91 Octane)
Pete Cams...........ZZZZZZOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!
Locobob Porting............ZZZZZZOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!
A26B Gaskets
Carter200 Machining
ZF Doc "C" Beam Plates
Doc Don's Bose

Over 115 mph in quarter mile down the street with no power shifts just cruising.
(I will keep the details secret for a challenge........just in case) :D

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...54e6beda57.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...063e36d1cd.jpg

Click on photos (videos) to hear Pete's cams in action with SW ZR1CORVOR headers and SW ZR1CHAMSW exhaust.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f47793e504.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...063e36d1cd.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...73cb5df3e0.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 228 Dec, 2017

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements For Stock Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters
 

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements for Stock Valves and Stock Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...371760a2e4.jpg

Valve Stem Clearance Measurements for Regrind Valves and Stock Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7afc6e9615.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 229 Dec, 2017

1995 LT5 Specific Top End Rebuild Tricks (#0186)
 

1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS (#0186)

A Summary of 1995 Reconditioning/Modifications (#0186).

Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected).

1. Rebuilt Starter
2. New 200 amp Alternator (Just Because)
3. New Secondary Vacuum System and Linkage (Complete)
4. All Injectors Ohmed (12.4 Ohms) and Cleaned with New "O" Rings
5. New Plugs and New LT5 Plug Wires (Raised to Plenum)
6. TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing (Re-installed TB Coolant Hoses for looks only)
7. Billet Aluminum (Oil Cap, Power Steering Pulley, Water Pump Pulley)
8. Lees MAP Sensor Cover with 1995 #186
9. New Crankcase Vent Cover Gasket with red Loctite on all bolts and two New Vent Cover Hoses from Jerry
10. Four New PCV Hoses from Jerry not requiring any clamps of any kind
11. New Charcoal Canister
12. Engine completely Degreased and Cleaned (Pressure Washed) with Compression at 215-220 on ALL eight Cylinders
13. Differential Drain Plug Installed
14. All New Fluids (Differential, Trans, Engine) and New Oil Filter
15. New TB Coolant Hoses albeit there is NO TB Coolant
16. New "O" Rings (Injectors, Fuel Rail, Cam Cover PCV)
17. New MAP Hose and New Fuel Pressure Regulator Hose
18. SS Allen Bolts (Plenum, MAP, Air Horn, Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds)
19. New Tires (Came with ZR-1)
20. And.....New Garmin Mapping (In case I get Lost being distracted while driving the "New" ZR-1)
21. And almost forgot.....Wireless XM Radio....Just Tune Bose to same frequency (using IPhone APP to find frequency)
22. Complete set of Metric tools behind Passenger Seat
23. Gorilla Lug Nut Wrench and Dynomite Tow Bar beside Passenger Seat
24. K40 Radar installed (Came with ZR-1)
25. LoJack Installed (Came with ZR-1)
26. Carter Bling (Billet Aluminum Covers for Oil Filter, Brake Fluid, Coolant Over Flow, Power Steering, Wiper Fluid, Throttle Cable)
27. New Radiator Hoses
28. New Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator
29. New 180 deg Thermostat
30. Radiator (oil cooler and Air Condenser) was Clean of Trash (may install Radiator Screen)
31. Under Side of Engine and Differential was degreased and pressure washed (No Oil Leaks)
32. C4 Beam Plates Installed (ZF doc)
33. New Hood Support
34. Recharged the R134a AC System
35. Greased zerks on Front A-Arms (Top and Bottom) and Inspected/Restored Brake Calipers/Pads
36. Reinstalled Canadian daytime running lamps Module mounted on ASR Box
37. Radiator Debree Screen installed
38. Inspect Chain Guide Wear
39. Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines
40. Installation of Wilwood Rotors, Hats, and C5-Z06 Calipers.
41. Rebuilt Black Label Transmission Installed with New Pilot Bearing.
42. New Drive Shaft U-Joints.
43. ZFdoc C4 Beam Plates Installed.
44. New Serpentine Belt (K060802).
45. Elite Oil Catch Can.
46. New MSD 8224 Coils Installed.
47. New Rear Wheel Bearings (SKF BR930024).
48. New Rear Brake Pads.
49. New Half Shaft Spicer U-Joints.
50. New Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator (Apr 2019).

All 95' cars have the Dunn heads on the left side: #10225121
This 95' has the Dunn head on the right side also: #10225122

(use a mirror to read photo below).

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0a471b617.jpeg

From the Registry Web Site.......
A Total 448 each year 93's, 94's, and 95's.
1994-95 production model of the ZR-1 they started installing the new Dunn heads except they ran out of the left side Birmal heads first so some '94 ZR-1s have the new Dunn heads only on the left side. Eventually GM started installing Dunn heads on both sides but only later built '95 ZR-1s got Dunn heads on both sides:

All '95 cars have the Dunn heads on the left side: #10225121
Most of the '95's still have the Birmal heads on the right side: #10174390
In '95 is when they started installing some of the Dunn heads on the right side: #10225122

These are the 95' ZR-1's that definitely have a (SET) of Dunn heads (#10225121 and #10225122) on them from the factory (See #186).
#118, #161, #186, #188, #211, #220, #227, #229, #235, #236, #249, #258, #275, #293, #310, #357, #368, #389, #390, #392, #393, #394, #398, #416, #418, #420, #425, #428, #435, #442, #444

1995 (#0186) LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS
A 1995 Top End was rebuilt and best tricks linked here
Post 230 - 1995 (#0186) LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS
Post 231 - Clean Up of Valley, Installation of Battery Disconnect Switch and Coils
Post 232 - Installation of Rebuilt Starter, New Alternator, and Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines
Post 233 - Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion
Post 234 - Installation of New Secondary Port Vacuum System hoses
Post 235 - Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings
Post 236 - New PCV Connections. Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires and New Spark Plugs
Post 237 - Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats
Post 238 - Reconditioning and Installation of Plenum with SS Allen Head Bolts
Post 239 - Addition of Billet Aluminum Power Steering, Water Pump, Belt Tensioner Pulleys
Post 240 - New Rear Wheel Bearings and New Half Shaft U-Joints
Post 241 - Rebuilt Black Label Transmission Installed
Post 242 - Installation of Elite Oil Catch Can
Post 243 - Replacing the Coils
Post 244 - INJ1 Fuse
Post 245 - Under the Plenum
Post 246 - The Four Minute Plenum Installation
Post 247 - 1995 ZR-1 #186 with Haibeck Chip
Post 248 - K40 Front and Rear Radar Detection System
Post 249 - Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate
Post 250 - All Aluminum Alternator Pulley

1. Plenum, Alternator, AC Compressor, Fuel Rails, Injectors, Secondary Vacuum System, Coils, Starter Removed.
This includes the Cruize, Charcoal Canister, HVAC Vacuum System which is also removed.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...834afd18e5.jpg

2. It all Started with great compression of 215-220 on all 8 cylinders without TB plates open but did have a vacuum leak. All injectors checked out at 12.4 Ohms.

3. Inspection of Chain Guide Wear.

The passenger side Chain Guide Wear can be inspected through the Oil Fill Cap. The Top Chain Guide attached to the Valve Cover can be seen making sure it is not broken and the Tab is intact. The Camshaft Chain can also be seen resting on the Lower Chain Guide and the Wear on that Chain Guide observed.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...de3d3c41f7.jpg

The Lower Chain Guide on Passenger Side associated with the Chain Tensioner on that side can be seen and with a flashlight and the general condition verified (no broken tip or sides). With a Bore Scope, the Chain Guide Wear can be observed noting the depth of the wear on each side of the links as noted. Also the center portion of the Chain Guide on which the rollers roll can also be seen. In general, Chain guide wears relatively fast until the rollers come in contact with the Chain Guide. At this point in the Chain Guide Wear, the Wear is extremely slow. One looks for less than a 1/16 inch depth of the links at which time the rollers are in contact with the Chain Guide.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...260eb94823.jpg

4. It all Ended with A Restored LT5.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b124a0e778.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7bf1f7b5aa.jpg


Last UPDATE of post 230 June, 2020

Clean Up of Valley, Installation of Battery Disconnect Switch and Coils
 

1. Clean Up of Valley and Removal Of Crankcase Cover (gasket replaced)

Valley was cleaned by Degreasing followed by Pressure Washing. The Valley Drain being considerably larger on the 95' was able to drain considerable Pressure Washed Debree.

Valley with New Crankcase Cover Gasket installed

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...af5b79c140.jpg

New Crankcase Ventilation Hoses Installed (Left and Right)

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b3934f4762.jpg

In addition, the Secondary Actuator System was reconditioned with NEW Secondary Linkage (with just a bit of white grease on each Secondary Lever Ball).

2. Battery Disconnect Switch and Installation of Coils

The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bbbbdcd82b.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...843f79c86f.jpg

3. Installation of Ignition Coils.........See Post #243 for Replacing the Coils

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...29c8cf59f2.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 231 Dec, 2017

Installation of Rebuilt Starter, New Alternator, and SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines
 

Installation of Rebuilt Starter, New Alternator, and Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines

1. Rebuilt Starter

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a097d4f3e5.jpg

2. New 200 Amp Alternator

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3. Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines

1. Place SS Braided hose in vice and cut SS Braided hose to length using Angle Grinder with Cut Off wheel. Angle grinder is preferred since minimal SS wires are left free of the cut.
2. Make sure no SS Braided wires enter the hose end and make sure all loose SS Braided wires are ground flush with end. Keep the hose in the vice with about 2 inches on the free end out of the vice. (Clean the inside of the hose end Cut Off before going further with Cotton Cue Tip .
3. Take the AN reusable hose fitting and unscrew the male part from the female part. The other end of the male part will have an NPT pipe thread or "O" ring seal thread size (AN) as desired.
4. Take the AN reusable hose fitting female part and screw onto the SS Braided hose (counterclockwise) by hand pushing onto the hose as you rotate the female hose fitting counterclockwise.
5. Screw the AN female reusable hose fitting onto the hose such that the hose is at a depth into the female fitting as defined by the lines on the female fitting surface.
6. Lubricate the inside diameter of the SS Braided hose with oil through the end of the female fitting.
7. Insert the male reusable hose fitting into the lubricated hose through the end of the female fitting.
8. Push the male fitting into the hose as you rotate the male fitting clockwise using a cresent wrench (Box Wrench preferred). Once the threads are caught, continue rotating the male fitting into the hose untill approximately 1/16 inch space is left between the hexigon of the male fitting and female fitting.
9. Install the second hydraulic reusable hose fitting on the other end of the hose as per steps 2 through 8 above.
10. Last...but not least....take an air hose (Air Compressor) and blow the hose clear to make sure you have a clean assembly (if the SS Braided hose is not too long look through the hose end to end for any debree). You now have a SS Braided hydraulic hose with fittings good for maybe 2,000 psi hydraulic pressure more or less.

Parts Required for SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines with Re-Usable Fittings.

The SS Oil Cooler Lines are very easy to make up in SS Braided hose using Aeroquip reusable fittings and SS Braided hose available from Summit Racing.

1. Use two 10 AN Stainless Steel Braided hose
2. use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated
3. Use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 45 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated
4. On the Oil Filter Adapter remove the 12 AN Flare fittings and use two 10AN Flare to 3/4 inch NPT
Or use two 12AN to 10AN Flare reducers
5. Oil Cooler Adapter
The Jeffvette design was used Stat-O-Seal, 5/8 in Inside Diameter, Aluminum with O-Ring on each AN-10 to 3/8" BSPP Straight Adapter.
6. One 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt
7. One 6 mm SS washer
8. Two "O" rings for the Aluminum adapter manifold to oil cooler interface.

The first seven items can be found at Summit Racing.

Jeffvette Design of Oil Cooler Adapter

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8891954c14.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3f2adb038c.jpg

I have never had one of these hydraulic lines with Aeroquip Reusable Fittings leak and they are much much tougher than original crimped fittings and easily replaced or adjusted if you want to at some point make them longer or shorter (the fittings are reusable and swivel). And......you will find a much better routing of the lines if you make them yourself by looking at the routing of the existing Hydraulic Lines. The Aeroquip Reusable Fittings come in all sizes and angles to fit any situation. You can make your own oil cooler lines as shown here and Power Steering Lines or any other hydraulic line you might need on the ZR-1.

Once you experiment with making your own hydraulic lines with some using SS Braided hose you will never look back at buying ready made hydraulic lines again. All you need is a vice, hand grinder (or even a hack saw will work), and a couple box wrenches of appropriate size. Oh...and an air compressor to blow clean the lines after assembly.

Last UPDATE of post 232 Mar, 2019

Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion
 

Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion

95' ZR-1 Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Front Brake Conversion with A-Molds
See Also ZR-1 (90' and 91') Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion

See Also 1990 LT5 Rebuild Tricks (Including Wilwood Front Brakes)

Specific Brake Parts by Wilwood

The KEY Element is the offset of the Rotor to match the offset of the Caliper Bracket.
This Wilwood Rotor with Z06 Caliper Modification described herein is IDENTICAL on BOTH the 90' ZR-1, 91' ZR-1, and 95' ZR-1.

1. Rotors.
Wilwood SRP Drilled Performance rotors 12.8 inch diameter and 1.25 inch width with 12x7.06 Rotor Bolt Circle (160-7744-BK RH and 160-7745-LH).

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8fafdf87ca.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5dbc2b4c34.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0bb8b8eed4.jpg

2. Hats.
Two Wilwood Big Brake short offset (offset 1/4 inch) Hats (Aluminum Alloy) with 5x4.75 Wheel Stud Circle and 12x7.06 Rotor Bolt Circle (#170-7746) will fit the Wilwood SRP Drilled Performance Rotors.

Also need the Bolt Kit (230-8008) 12 pack for bolting the Hats to each Rotor.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d98ac5e44f.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b08d5afe82.jpg

3. Brake Pads.
Four (4) 15Q-8012K PolymatrixQ pads for a C5-Z06 (Wilwood is souce).

4. C5-Z06 Calipers and Brackets.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f90f8a627e.jpg

The Following Piston is Larger Diameter

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6fd681cfaa.jpg

Another Reason to Convert to C5 Z06 Calipers.

C5-Z06 Calipers Ebay
C5-Z06 Caliper Brackets Ebay

5. Bracket Bolt Kits.
#14121 (Caliper Guide Pin) and Brake Hardware Kit (Spacers and Seals) #H5634Q at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

6. Adapters.
(Corvette C4 to C5-Z06 conversion brackets, late spindle) C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion Adapters (Ebay)
(Note the countersunk surface for Bracket Boss)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...10e28a6c15.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f9254984c8.jpg

7. SS Brake Lines.
Russel SS Brake Lines for 95'

I used two aluminum washers under the Banjo Bolt Head and one aluminum washer between the brake line adapter and Banjo Bolt Port on the Calipers. The two washers keep the brake fluid port in the Banjo bolt centered on the brake line adapter. NO LEAKS

These SS Brake Lines fit perfectly (shortest pair on front)
Ebay SS Brake Lines 1

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b64844c270.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 233 Jan, 2019

Installation of New Secondary Port Vacuum System Lines
 

Installation of New Secondary Port Vacuum System lines
Just a Heads Up....Ebay has New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System (Complete) for the 93'-95', New Map Vacuum Hose, and New Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose. I highly recommend These hoses along with the New PCV System four Hose/Connectors which totally eliminates the need for Nylon Ties, and Screw Type Hose Clamps. Oh Ya......These NEW Lines/Connectors also TOTALLY Eliminate all Vacuum System Leakage.
New Secondary Vacuum System

1. New Map Vacuum Hose, and New Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0199c753ff.jpg

2. New Secondary Port Control Solenoid Valve Filter (95') made from a Sponge.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4feb598616.jpg

The Secondary Port Control Solenoid Valve for the 95' (Bottom which has the silver Vent Tube requiring a Filter) is different than the Secondary Port Control Solenoid Valve for the 90'-91' (Top)

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9407ac2631.jpg

3. New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System for 1995.
Installed New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System for 93'-95'.
Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da8458b135.jpg

This is an absolute Must Do if you Really are serious about reconditioning the
Secondary Port Vacuum System (the original Rubber Connectors are Hard and Deteriorated).

4. New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System for 1990-1995.

This complete NEW vacuum system designed for the 93'-95' can be installed on a 1990-1995 ZR-1. For 1990-1992 this can be accomplished by substituting the longer Manifold Differential Pressure vacuum line on the original 1990-1992 ZR-1 Vacuum System for the shorter curled MDP Vacuum line in the New 93'-95' Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System.

The New vacuum system connectors are New soft rubber and easy to disconnect connectors which are very tight (just twist the plastic tube back and forth and they will let loose). The Original hard rubber connectors are impossible to disconnect without cutting the connector lengthwise (with razor blade) to remove the plastic tube.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da8458b135.jpg

3. Modifications (re-arrangement of connectors) of the New Secondary Vacuum System to fit 1990-1992.

A. The Tee (T) was moved and a 1 inch long 1/8" Fuel Line PCV/EEC (SAE 30R7 obtained at O'Reillys) was used as a splice where the T was located. The T was installed for the Drivers Side Secondary Canister which is identical to the Stock

B. The Stock 1990 Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) Vacuum Line was used and added to the New Secondary Vacuum System. I replaced the stock L fitting on the 1990 MDP was replaced with the New L fitting removed when T was re-installed for the Drivers Side Secondary Canister which is identical to the Stock 1990 Secondary Vacuum System configuration.

C. In this case I also used the Stock line with New L fitting from the check valve to the Vacuum Pump line as that Stock line was just a bit longer

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...14c9b96567.jpg

Went for a test drive with the 1990 and ALL is perfect :thumbs:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2d8a0934e3.jpg

4. New Secondary Vacuum System Availability.

These New Secondary Vacuum Systems for 93'-95 which can easily be modified for 1990-1992s are offered on Ebay for $100 but one can buy them with an offer for less :D

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...189605ba83.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 234 Aug, 2020

Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings
 

Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings

1. Injectors Cleaned and Ohmed (12.4 Ohms)
New Injector "O" Rings Installed (Top and Bottom "O" Rings are Identical)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...08e9f550e9.jpg

2. Installation of Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings (Always use just a bit of white grease on the "O" rings for ease of insertion into the Injector Housing and Fuel Rail)
Injectors with White Ring are Primary and Injectors with Blue Ring are Secondary

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1f01fb7198.jpg

3. Installation of Retainer on Reconditioned Injectors with New "O" Rings
Make Sure the Injectors are Inserted completely all the way into the Fuel Rail Before Installing the Retainer Clip.

Last UPDATE of post 235 Dec, 2017

New PCV Connections, Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires and New Spark Plugs
 

PCV System upgrade and Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires and New Spark Plugs

1. New PCV Hoses installed (No Nylon Ties or Wire Clamps required)
In addition to the Oil Catch Can, new PCV dual connectors have been added replacing the old connectors.

Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector
Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Hose
Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Grommet

I installed Jerry's New Dual PCV Connectors on ALL engines getting rid of all the Clap Trap Nylon Ties and Hose Clamps to keep the Old (hardened Rubber) Dual PCV connectors from slipping off the PCV valves/lines or leaking Highly Recommended :thumbs:
Right up near Top Of List with Blocking TB Coolant at each Injector Housing.

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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8b762775d5.jpg
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2. Installation/Relocation of Plug Wires with New Billet Aluminum Plug Wire Separators

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...29c8cf59f2.jpg

3. Location of Plug Wire Separator Moved to Upper Plenum Bolt from Injector Housing Bolt
Along with the PCV Upgrades is the raised Plug Wires from Injector Housing Bolt to Plenum Bolt on ALL engines. This allows the Dual PCV Connector to be attached in front of and at the same location as the Plug Wires and above the Cam Covers A Very Clean Installation lifting the Plug Wires OFF the Cam Covers.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...39bcc7324e.jpg

4. New Spark Plugs
For my 95' NGK Iridium BKR5EIX Eagle
Gapped .043"

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7460b4d767.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1ecf00192d.jpg

I use anti-sieze on stainless steel bolts, spark plugs, and header bolts (Permatex Anti-Sieze 133A).

I use just a bit of white grease on the Spark Plug porcelain top to make installation of the Spark Plug Rubber boot easy.
I also use a bit of white grease near the top of the rubber boot where it engages the top of the Cam Cover.

Those swivel Spark Plug Sockets have a nice rubber insert. My only issue was that the spark plug held on to the insert separating the short wobble extension from the end of the swivel socket when done inserting the spark plug. A little white grease on the rubber insert cured that issue :thumbs:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...214243c418.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...292e46dbb0.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a0aa23c0f.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 236 Dec, 2017

Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator, and Thermostats
 

1. TB Coolant Blocking.

See this link for TB Coolant Blocking drilling and threading details Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking

The most difficult part to TB Coolant Blocking is the removal of the two Injector Housing Coolant Pipes. Those 4 bolts in each pipe may be impossible to remove without heat. Just take a torch and heat each manifold along the whole length of the bolt a bit before removing the 6mm x 50mm torx T-30 bolts (I replace with SS Allen Head bolts).

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...af1403578b.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...73067eaddc.jpg

First.....Tape the Injector Housing Ports so no filings get into the Intake Ports at any time during the drilling/threading Process.
After using a 21/64 or 11/32 drill to enlarge the TB Coolant Port use a 1/8 NPT Tap for the Pipe Plug.
The threading proceeded in stages each time trying the New Red Plug such that the last stage resulted in the Plug Tight and almost flush with the surface of the Injector Housing to Plenum Mating Surface. A file was used to dress up the plug surface flush with the Injector Housing to Plenum Mating Surface. Red Loctite was used on the Red 1/8 inch NPT Pipe Plug.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...db4f01fe31.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8040641058.jpg

After the 1/8 inch NPT Pipe Plug was installed a shop vacuum was used to suck out any and all aluminum shavings caught within the injector housing coolant manifold port.

Once the Plenum was installed the rubber hose on the Passenger Side connecting the Coolant Tank with the TB Coolant was blocked (using an internal brass connector that was soldered closed) using one screw clamp on the Coolant Tank Side. All other TB Coolant rubber hoses were installed NEW but without any screw clamps since no coolant pressure will exist within those hoses with TB Coolant blocked from both directions.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f932c54c3b.jpg

Marc Haibeck has found that the throttle body has no problem with ice when the ambient temperature is at 20 degrees and the humidity is 90%. I have calculated that the coolant flow Dynamics assure ALL air is washed from the Top End of the engine at higher engine rpms (only need the air washed out once) even with TB Coolant Blocked .

2. Fluidyne Radiator.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6b3d979d20.jpg

I was FedXed the Fluidyne Radiator in a matter of hours after purchase from Hib. I am saving the Original Fluidyne Colorful Box as a Souvenir (picture later today).
A extremely well made ALL Aluminum Radiator.

The Stock Radiator with Plastic End Caps...................................All Aluminum Fluidyne Radiator

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9c5abf3cac.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a5e4c285f7.jpg

3. Removal of the Cowling.

A. Remove Corrugated Air Duct.
B. Remove Air Filter Housing Assembly.
C. To Remove the Cowling first remove all bolts/screws/nuts including the three 7mm on each side lower front of Cowling.

Details
a. There are three 7mm screws on each side lower front of Cowling.
b. There are two 10 mm nuts on Passenger Side Lower Flange of Cowling on frame rail.
c. There is one 10 mm nut on Drivers Side Lower Flange of Cowling on frame rail.
d. There is one 13 mm nut on Passenger Side Lower Flange of Cowling on Frame Rail.
e. There is one 13 mm nut on Drivers Side Lower Flange of Cowling on Frame Rail.
f. There is two 10 mm bolts horizontal on Drivers side just below Coolant Inlet.
g. There are five 10 mm bolts holding the top of the Fan Housing to the Cowling.

Additional Details
a. I also remove the three screws on the bottom of the Fan Housing.
b. Remove the Oil Cooler Hose Adapter by removing the center nut from the Oil Cooler.
c. Unplug Air Sensor Passenger side front lower end of Cowling.
d. Remove sensors on Drivers Side of Cowling.

Now the Hard to Explain Part......
Lift the Cowling up on the drivers side so that is clear of the hood Pivot. With the Drivers Side lifted up high, go to the Passenger Side and lift up by bending the lower tabs of the Cowling so they squeeze by the AC lines. The Cowling should then be free.

4. Modification of Fan Housing and Cowling.

The Thicker Fluidyne Radiator fit under the Cowling without any modifications of the Fan Housing even though it was a thicker Radiator.

The 95' Cowling was cut in several places for removal by someone else so I replaced the 95' Cowling with a 91' Cowling.
The 91' Cowling only has one sensor attached (brass screw holes) and the 95' has three sensors requiring two holes each. I drilled the holes in the 91' Cowling to match the 95' Cowling.

Thickness of Stock compared to Fluidyne Radiator........................Modification of 91' Cowling to fit 95'


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cf3ffbab62.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ced1e815c1.jpg

5. Fluidyne Radiator Installation.

Stock Radiator Removed ........................................ .................Fluidyne Radiator Installed

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...001a19ea42.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a21f515633.jpg

Lift the Cowling up on the drivers side so that is clear of the hood Pivot. With the Drivers Side lifted up high, go to the Passenger Side and lift up by bending the lower tabs of the Cowling so they squeeze by the AC lines. The Cowling should then be free.

6. Replacing the Thermostat.

I always replace the Stock Thermostats with a 180 deg F New Thermostat but there are TRICKS.
Now the TRICK....Disconnect the Thermostat Housing two bolts to the frame and the single bolt holding the Thermostat Housing pipe pointing to the Drivers side. The Thermostat Housing can then be moved so you can disconnect/Connect that New lower radiator hose after installation of a New 180 deg F Thermostat. You can split the Thermostat housing (I had a frozen bolt on the last one which is another story).

Use a flat scraper blade to hold the New Thermostat in place tight (as it wants to spring outward as the main spring of the Thermostat is compressed when installed) as you install the two Thermostat Housing halves (yes....I use a bit of Permatex on the faces of the Thermostat Housing and on the rubber seal of the Thermostat) :D

You do NOT want to pinch that Thermostat rubber seal on the flat surfaces of the two Thermostat Halves (the rubber seal resides in a groove of the Thermostat Housing Half containing the Thermostat).

After the New Thermostat is installed in the Thermostat Housing you can then install that short lower Radiator Hose using Permatex on the inside of each end of the Hose. Before you tighten the Hose Clamps, align the two bolt holes of the Thermostat Housing Bracket with the threaded holes in the Frame Rail. Install those two bolts aligning the Thermostat Housing squarely with the New Radiator Lower Connection. Lastly, tighten the two lower Radiator Hose Clamps.

7. Filling with Coolant.

I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret......
A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight.
B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time).

With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator.

8. The Test ride and Flushing out of remaining air in the Coolant System.

First........A Theory about Thermostats before the Test Ride to flush out any additional air in the Coolant System.

I use 180deg Thermostats in ALL LT5s. A theory I have is that the 165 deg Thermostat will open sooner but once fully open at say 170deg will flow the same as a fully open 180deg Thermostat at say 185deg. No Difference in Cooling after both Thermostats are fully open. The Exception is that on cool days the 165deg Thermostat will keep the engine cooler than at 180deg Thermostat....say 170deg. That is actually too cool and some block air flow through the radiator on those cool days to achieve what a normal 180deg Thermostat would accomplish.

Marc Haibeck says The thermostat for all LT5's has a temperature rating of 180 degs F. The 180 deg thermostat begins to open at 180 and is fully open at 195 degrees. A thermostat with over 50k miles generally opens 5 degrees later and opens about 80%. I installed a NEW 180 deg Thermostat in this 95'.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3d19059f66.jpg

9. Last......a Theory regarding The Dual Function Thermostat on the LT5.

My thinking is that the whole purpose of the Dual Opening Thermostat Housing (Thermostat can open at the Temperature side or on the other end at the Pressure side) is to keep Radiator Pressure to acceptable limits. In other words the Thermostat functions when the engine is cool and when the engine is at high rpm.

When the engine is at high RPM, the Bypass on the thermostat will be open completely do to the water pump developed coolant pressure on the bottom of the Thermostat. This Higher pressure being developed at the bypass end of the thermostat because the Thermostat is closed on the Temperature end or because the high water pump RPM is developing too much pressure on the radiator on the Bypass end of the thermostat.

In other words the Thermostat can open on either end (one end temperature controlled and the other end differential pressure controlled). And even it the Temperature End of the Thermostat is fully open, HIGH water pump RPMs may develop greater pressure than the radiator can stand on the Bypass End and the Thermostat would then open on both ends to allow more coolant to recirculate rather than ALL of the coolant flow being forced through the Radiator. 7,000 Engine RPM does that to you :lol:

Last UPDATE of post 237 Dec, 2017

Reconditioning and Installation of Plenum with SS Allen Head Bolts
 

Reconditioning and Installation of Plenum with SS Allen Head Bolts Including New MAP Vacuum Hose, New Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose, and New TB Coolant Hoses (Non Functional)

Also included here are New PCV Hoses and Fittings (Injector Housing Fittings, PCV Valve Hose, and PCV Top Fitting)
It is highly recommended that these four Hose/Fittings be replaced with New Jerry's Hose/Fittings which do NOT require Nylon Ties or Screw Hose Clamps of any kind to keep from leaking.

The Same Replacement applies to the MAP Vacuum Hose and Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose to eliminate the need for Nylon Ties or Screw Hose Clamps.

Plenum Restored

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2348ce411c.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...000c8cd7a7.jpg

Plenum Installed

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...61b85ac3a9.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b124a0e778.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 238 Dec, 2017

Addition of Billet Aluminum Power Steering, Water Pump Pulleys
 

Addition of Billet Aluminum Power Steering, Water Pump Pulleys

Billet Aluminum Power Steering Pump Pulley

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...780e2f3476.jpg

Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...114539e8a6.jpg



Last UPDATE of post 239 Jan, 2020

New Rear Wheel Bearings and New Half Shaft U-Joints
 

New Rear Wheel Bearings and Half Shaft U-Joints in a 1995 ZR-1

The New Rear Wheel Bearings selected are SKF BR930024.

Two new SKFBR930024 rear wheel bearings as recommended by Phil (Jagdpanzer) were installed in a 95' ZR-1 :cheers:
Also installed Spicer U-Joints (Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints w/Coated Caps) in the Half shafts as well as new Brake Pads :D

SKFBR930024 rear wheel bearings and some smaller tools used to install the U-Joints, Half Shafts, and Bearings are shown. The three (Torx T55). bolts that hold each Rear Wheel Bearing in the Bearing Housing are also shown. The Torx T55 driver is shown on the 3/8 inch socket and the smaller 1/4 inch 8mm socket and extensions were used to remove the Half Shaft U-Joint straps. The needle nose vice grips was used to remove the Spicer U-joint spring clips from within the Half shaft. The larger ball bean hammer was used to remove the Spicer U-joints and caps from the Half Shaft using a couple of sockets (one 22mm and one 35mm).
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d32c8f5006.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6b1a280f2c.jpg

The original Rear Wheel Bearings in this 95' with 95K miles were not really loose in any way but there was some lubricant that had leaked out of the bearing indicating time for a change. If there is black oily dust collected around the bottom of the bearing or around the U-Joints....that is an indication for a possible changeout of Bearings or U-Joints.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...91315e3fee.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...998f18f0b5.jpg

After removing the 36mm Axle Nut (using a two foot long pipe extension on a 3/4 inch socket wrench) allowing the spline shaft to slide freely within the bearing spline…..The BIG Trick was the disconnection of the lower Strut Rod just below the Rear Bearing Housing and then pulling the bottom of the housing out about an inch or so using a come-a-long attached to my truck ;)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...66bc43ee1f.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5ac310608e.jpg

The Half shaft was then easily disconnected by removing the U-Joint Cap Straps (8mm bolts) and removed out the bottom where the Strut Rod was disconnected and rotated downward. The Axle spline floats within the Wheel Bearing once the Axle Nut is removed allowing free play for removing the Half Shaft if you pull a bit on the bottom of the Bearing Housing. That "Trick" worked perfectly :thumbs:

Once the Half Shaft was removed, the Spline was slipped out of the bearing from the inside of the Bearing Housing. A Torx T55 driver and 3/8 inch socket wrench was used to remove the three Bearing bolts from the inside of the Bearing Housing. The Rear Wheel Bearing was then removed from the front. The two large bolts shown are one from each Strut Rod beneath the Bearing Housing.

The two spline Teflon coated washers shown were coated with Brake pad grease (had it on hand) and the splines were coated with anti-sieze before re-installation into the New Rear Wheel Bearings.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...683b5bf016.jpg

The Cotter Pin hole of the threaded end of the spline shaft was drilled out to 3/16 inch for a tight fitting 3/16 inch diameter cotter pin.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6a3e94c3c2.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4fa7adf2bf.jpg

The Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints were installed using a couple sockets (35mm and 22 mm) to remove the old U-joints and install the New Spicer U-Joints.

The smaller socket was used on top of the yoke of the Half Shaft on the top U-Joint Cap (tapped firmly) such that the top cap is forced into the yoke. The larger socket was used on the bottom of the yoke with the U-Joint bottom cap forced into the larger 35 mm socket. After the lower U-Joint Cap is tapped free, flip the Half Shaft 180 deg and using the same set up tap the second cap free.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5a200c66b0.jpg

Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints with spring clips are shown. The Half Shafts are marked (left and right......inside and outside).
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6cd8947979.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...62ef3892be.jpg

Bolt Torques...….
U-Joint Strap Bolts (8mm)......20 ft-lbs
Three Bearing Bolts (Torx 55)...….65 ft-lbs
Axle Nut (36mm)…...195 ft-lbs

Note:
The Strut Rod is what keeps the Wheel Bearing tight against the Half Shaft once the Axle Nut is removed. The Axle Spline does not move with respect to the Wheel Bearing Spline once that Axle Nut is tight.

With the Axle Nut in place, the Half Shaft is held tight between the Wheel Bearing and Differential. The Wheel Bearing can move in and out just a bit depending on the compressibility of the rubber grommets in the Strut Rod as the bearing moves up and down with respect to the chassis (the distance between the Wheel Bearing and Differential changes just a bit as the angle of the Half Shaft changes just a bit).

With the Axle Nut remove, the Wheel Bearing is still held firmly by the Strut Rod. Once the Strut Rod is removed there is limited free play between the Axle Spline and Wheel Bearing Spline (in and out). That free play can be increased by applying a lateral force outward on the bottom of the Wheel Bearing where the Strut Rod was located using Come-A-Long attached to my Truck. If you pull outward on the bottom of the Wheel Bearing Housing just a bit that free play allows the easy removal of the U-Joints from being trapped by the U-Joint sockets once the Strap Bolts are removed. That Free Play is what is needed to overcome all the Difficulty removing the Half Shafts from being trapped between the Differential and Wheel Bearing even when the Axle Spline Nut is removed. Gaining that Free Play requires a relatively small force using a Come-A-Long to Help with the Lateral outward movement of the lower part of the Wheel Bearing Housing of an inch or so.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...66bc43ee1f.jpg

1995 ZR-1 Dunn Heads Left and Right
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4ed9a9a343.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0d1b7c15b1.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d3d41dfe07.jpg


Last UPDATE of post 240 Sep, 2018

Rebuilt Black Label Transmission Installed and New Driveshaft U-Joints
 

Rebuilt Black Label Transmission Installed with New Pilot Bearing, New ThrowOut Bearing and New Drive Shaft U-Joints

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...85cf8a82ae.jpg

Blue Label Removed (TOP), Rebuilt (ZFdoc) Black Label Installed (BOTTOM).
Note: ZFdoc Rebuilds the 1-4 shift Solenoid is removed.
Note: Pilot Bearing
ZR-1 Transmission Install and Lift Tricks
Throwout Bearings
C4 beam plates

Dimensions of Black Label Transmission which except for Throwout Bearing Inside Diameter are identical to Blue Label Transmission.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...41247807e6.jpg

1 inch or 25.4 mm...................................... ..................................1.373 inch or 34.87 mm

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3862f17d5d.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9d7b9abf6f.jpg

7.6 inches or 193 mm

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9efe7a068a.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...257d127b1f.jpg

1. Sequence of Removing Blue Label Transmission.

A. Remove Exhaust Hangers and three Exhaust Bolts attaching to CATS.
B. Support Engine Under Oil Pan.
C. Remove C-Frame Bolts and ZFdoc C-Frame Brackets.
D. Remove Shift Knob and Center Console.
E. Remove Drive Shaft U-Joint Clamps at Differential.
F. Lower Transmission and remove Drive Shaft and C-Frame (a bit tricky removing C-Frame).
G. Remove Bolts from Transmission and Remove Transmission.
H. Remove Clutch Slave Cylinder from Bell Housing and slip Throwout Bearing Pivot to Drivers Side.
I. Remove Bell Housing.
J. Remove Pressure Plate.
K. Remove Pilot Bearing.

The steps A-J are straight forward.

2. Removal of Pilot Bearing.

A 9PC Blind Hole Slide Hammer Pilot Bearing Puller Internal Extractor Removal Kit was used to remove the pilot bearing.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5c8d9b24e6.jpg

3. Installation of New U-Joints in Main Drive Shaft.

The Old U-Joints were removed by setting the end of the drive shaft in a vice such that the two U-Joints that were removed from the end of the Transmission and Differential sit crosswise on the vice with end bearings still installed. Then with a Open End Socket just a bit larger than the End Caps and using a hammer, pound downward forcing the U-Joint Bearing up and out of the Aluminum Driveshaft collar. The U-Joint can then be removed from the other End Cap and that bearing end removed outward with a punch positioned through the bearing collar just removed.

The new U-Joint is installed by positioning the End Caps in a vice outside the drive shaft and squeezing the two End Caps together making sure the needle bearings and end spacer inside the collar is in position. Lastly, the End caps can be finally positioned (using a socket that fits just inside the collar and hammer) such that the Keeper can be inserted tight against the End Caps making sure the End Caps are not driven allowing play between the keeper and End Cap.

Dana Spicer 5-3613X U-Joints w/Coated Caps for Alum Driveshaft were installed on both ends of the main drive shaft.
Universal Joints Source

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6cd8947979.jpg

4. New U-Joints in Half Shafts and New Rear Wheel Bearings were installed (see Post #240).

Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints w/Coated Caps for Alum Halfshafts were installed on both ends of the Half Shafts. SFK BR930024 Rear Wheel Bearings were also installed.

5. Intallation of Rebuilt Black Label Transmission.

ZFdoc Rebuilt 91' Black Label ZF S6-40 Transmission was lifted into place using a Harbor Freight 800 lb Capacity Transmisison Jack.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0467388721.jpg

Transmission Jack
The Transmission Jack works perfectly with the ZR1 on KwikLift 18 inches off the ground (Perfect height). The 800 lb Capacity Transmission Jack has roll and tilt adjustments for a perfect match when locating the transmission on the Bell Housing (Clutch depressed last 2 inches of installation). The transmission (on Transmission Jack) can be rolled under KwiKLift from the front as the shifter will clear the cross members and bell housing/oil pan (slipped along side of oil pan).

6. Test Drive

Went for a test drive with several stops at 25 mph wearing off the Black Powder Coating from the Wilwood Rotors. Then some high speed stops and even some speed shifting. WOW....that ZFdoc Black Label shifts so crisp and easy it is amazing when compared to Stock ZF S6-40 Transmissions. ZFdoc Rebuilds are recommended for anyone having Transmission issues and for those that want the best shifting Transmission available for the ZR-1.

And if you want to STOP QUICK.......Wilwood Rotors with C5-Z06 conversions are the way to go :thumbs:

Last UPDATE of post 241 Sep, 2018

Elite Oil Catch Can
 

Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can Installation Details.

1. General.

See for background information LT5 PCV System

The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected using SS braided hose to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The Oil Catch Can is located on the drivers side under the drivers side head light.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...be2e565cc9.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...83dada7bfc.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ac77d260f.jpg

The Oil Catch Can used here is the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b1d84bda23.jpg

2. Oil Catch Can Parts.

The two hose fittings are (Hose End, Swivel, 90 Degree, 6 AN Hose to Male 1/4 in. NPT, Aluminum, Nickel) and the 1/4 NPT is screwed into the Oil Catch Can 1/4 inch NPT threaded holes Swivel, 90 Degree, 6 AN Hose to Male 1/4 in. NPT

On the other ends of the SS Braided hoses install 6 AN Straight Hose Ends.
The hose is 6-AN Summit Racing SS Braided hose. 6 AN SS Braided Hose.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ee862f6b40.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...74b50e36d1.jpg

The Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can does not come with the fittings cited herein. Replace the fittings of the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can with the two SS 90 deg 6 AN to Male 1/4 NPT pipe fittings cited herein.

The short SS Braided Hose section connected to the Plenum PCV vacuum is 24 inches long. The longer SS Braided Hose section connected to the PCV connector is 36 inches long.

Last UPDATE of post 242 July, 2020

Replacing Coils
 

The INJ1 Fuse was blowing shutting down the engine. This issue was solved by replacing the Coils and/or closely inspecting and jiggling ALL DIS Connectors, Coil Connectors and Injector Connectors including the Injector Wire Harness.

Coils TIPS

MSD 8224 Coils were installed replacing original stock coils.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...71907f2da5.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f8349d9b46.jpg

INJ1 Fuse keeps blowing More TIPS

Last UPDATE of post 243 Dec, 2017

INJ1 Fuse Keeps Blowing
 

1. INJ1 Fuse blows and Engine is Dead in Water (1995 ZR-1).
I have established Ohms down stream of fuse is 1,200 Ohms with engine off and key off. When fuse blows Resistance is .6 Ohms more or less. And stays that way until engine cools down or I mess with components and connectors under the Plenum.
Disconnected DIS and resistance goes up and stays up to 1200 Ohms.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a60c6968a1.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f4a578a26b.jpg

2. What is Known.

Injector Fuse INJ1 keeps blowing

Of interest and indicating where the INJ1 issue might be......... was last time watching the Ohm meter measuring down stream electrical resistance from INJ1 fuse while disconnecting electrical under the Plenum (INJ1 had failed and showed zero ohms on down side) the Ohms came back as I disconnected the 14 pin DIS connector.

The 14 Pin DIS connector (8 pins are used) has 4 wires with original (stock) mechanical crimped splices down by rear of block just before large Wire Loom. I disconnected the large Loom clamp and raised the loom just even with the windshield wiper motor. I cut those mechanical splices and slipped heat shrink on the cut wires and then soldered the wire ends. Heat shrink slips over the soldered splice and with some heat will insulate the splice. I then put it back together temporary and took a ride with no issues. I then removed the Plenum one more time and installed new wire looms on all electrical wires.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a4d459920f.jpg

Installed New Red Wire Looms on Coil Driver wires, EGR wire. secondary MAP wire, and the Crankshaft sensor wire connected to rear of DIS. Just cleaning up all wiring (Some of the New Wire Looms contained multiple Connector Wiring). Installed new wire looms on Injector Wires as well.

The key is to install the wire looms such that no connector is under any kind of tension at any time and with the wire looms on each wire there should be no wire contact with anything under the plenum.

Did check secondary operation by grounding Pin 17 on the ECM Green plug. With key on and with finger over vacuum line going to secondary Map sensor the secondary canisters functioned perfectly.

New Coils........................................ ................................New Wire Looms (Red)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9e5263be80.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b5f27816bf.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...de5f5b355c.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e6e455746c.jpg

See Also:
Under the Plenum
The Four Minute Plenum Installation

3. DIS Substitute by years.
Regarding DIS substitute by years.......I have two additional Experts helping me (Marc and Anonymous) who have pointed out that the first 500 or so 90's used a DIS module that has a part number that ends in 37. Those units only function with a brass shim under the crankshaft sensor. These modules will work in later cars as long as the crankshaft sensor is modified with the brass shim. After that initial run of 500 or so the DIS are interchangeable with later year LT5s. Crankshaft Position Sensor Shims

4. Crankshaft Sensors are NOT all the same.
Also it was pointed out by Marc regarding installation of a new Crankshaft sensor....some new crankshaft sensors have manufacturing faults. One new manufactured crankshaft sensor had the magnet installed backwards in about 2005. There is no spark with that magnet installed backwards. Some currently available new crankshaft sensors have a metal bracket that prevents the sensor from seating correctly in the LT5 block. This sensor is positioned in the block in such a way that the LT5 is difficult to start at times.

5. Use of mechanical electrical splices on other LT5 wiring harnesses.
Just for your additional information.......I also found original stock mechanical splices on the Drivers side Injector Wire Harness between the last injector by the fire wall and main wire loom captured in the Clamp attached to rear of block. I did not replace those original Injector Wire Harness splices simply because it is NOT an easy job to get down in that area with a soldering gun, wire stripper, Heat gun, or electrical tape. The mechanical splices on the Injector Harness did look well separated.

I did manage to replace four of the 14 Pin Connector Splices between the 14 Pin Connector and the main wire loom captured in the Clamp attached to rear of block. I removed the mechanical splices and used Solder, Heat Shrink, followed by electrical tape to connected the exposed ends of each wire (overlapping the bare wire ends about 3/8 inch on each side of the splice). The solder took very well saturating the two bare wire ends. One more point........These four splices on the 14 Pin Connector Harness each had two wires coming from the main wire harness within the clamp attached to the rear of the block going into one wire going on into the 14 pin DIS Connector. The only way to do that is to splice the wire.

6. Use of mechanical electrical splices on other LT5s.
I checked another LT5 wire harness I have on the wall (from a 90 or 91) and yes....it also contained these splices. The splices are interesting as they are swedged/crimped metal clips that are crimped over overlapping ends of bare wire as you can see in the photos. These Crimped wire ends are in turn wrapped with a silly cloth wrap about 1.5 inches long that is relatively loose and can be removed by cutting lengthwise with razor blade. Keep in mind this is a 95' with more going on under the Plenum (EGR and Secondary MAP).

6. Could the mechanical electrical wire splices have caused INJ1 fuse to blow?
I am not saying these splices caused INJ1 to blow as it appears only a shorted wire could do that. The splices although in somewhat poor condition did not appear to be in contact with associated spliced wires. I will say when I got done soldering the overlapping ends and sliding heat shrink over the splice with some heat it is like night and day on the continuity of the resulting splice compared to the original mechanical splice. And.....most importantly, the stripped wire ends (stripped 3/8 inch on each overlapping wire) took solder very well saturating all strands of the bare wire ends.

Last UPDATE of post 244 Mar, 2024

Under the Plenum
 

Under the 1995 Plenum

The Various Electrical and Vacuum Connections are identified under and on top of the Plenum

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2798d4b7c3.jpg

New Coils........................................ ................................New Wire Looms (Red)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8f69d7a1ec.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...15d0343b25.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c7efbb6ff3.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...53100e3b3e.jpg

See Also:

The Four Minute Plenum Installation

Last UPDATE of post 245 Dec, 2017

The Four Minute Plenum Installation
 

The Four Minute Plenum Installation

1. First we identify the various Electrical and Vacuum Connections associated with the Plenum.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2798d4b7c3.jpg

2. We shall assume the Secondary Vacuum System under the Plenum and the Coils/Spark Plug Wires are connected. We shall also assume the two Coil Electrical Connectors are connected. We shall also assume you have TB Coolant Blocked at each Injector Housing. It is also assumed the Fuel Tank Cap is loose and the two Fuel Lines are disconnected from the Fuel Pressure Regulator plumbing.

3. Start by setting the Plenum in place (Plenum gasket will be inserted later) and slipping Vapor Canister line through Plenum Runners on passenger side which takes a couple seconds.
4. Tip Plenum Up in Front and install two Coil Driver Connectors, EGR Connector, Secondary MAP Connector and Secondary Map Vacuum which takes 30 seconds.
5. Lower Plenum in front but not too low and install the Vapor Canister Vacuum Line which takes 10 seconds.
6. Slide Plenum forward an inch or so and install the 14 Pin DIS Connector and the Crankshaft Position Sensor on rear of DIS which takes 20 seconds.
7. Raise and lower front of Plenum and install the left and right Cam Cover Vents Hoses which takes 20 seconds.
8. Install Secondary Vacuum and Cruise Vacuum Connectors and install IAC and Air Temp Connector which takes 20 seconds.
9. Install TPS connector and insert Plenum gaskets and Plenum Bolts (12) as required which takes 30 seconds.
10. Using a Drill with 6mm Allen socket inserted, tighten 12 Plenum Bolts which takes 30 seconds.
11. Install MAP and MAP Connector and MAP Vacuum at rear of Plenum and install Fuel Regulator Vacuum at rear of Plenum which takes 30 seconds (Also insert PCV Valves into the PCV Hose).
12. Finish by installing Brake Booster Vacuum and Throttle Cables as well as corrugated air Intake between Air Horn and Air Filter which takes 30 seconds.
13. Check all connections and reconnected the two Fuel Lines to the Fuel Pressure Regulator Plumbing. Connect EGR (two 8 mm bolts) and tighten the gas cap which takes 30 seconds.
We just installed the Plenum in 240 seconds or 4 minutes :yesnod::yesnod:

Now get in the Drivers Seat and Fire the LT5 up :cheers::thumbs:

Last UPDATE of post 246 Dec, 2017

1995 zr-1 #186 with Haibeck Chip
 

1995 ZR-1 #186 with Haibeck Chip

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...78da12f138.jpg

Marc's latest BMCBG Chip for 93'-95' is version 4. Marc normally does not need the stock chip to which you attach his upgrade chip.

You burn 91 Octane or better. Since switched to 87 Octane Chip.

You remove the blue part and attach original chip to Marc Haibeck chip which is then inserted into the original slots of the ECM.
You have to use shorter screws for the ECM Chip Cover (I use SS 6-32 x 3/8 inch Allen Head screws with the original washers).

Haibeck BMCBG4


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...02fcfed493.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a46f212e88.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f2560c14c7.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...596a698700.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 247 Aug, 2019

K40 Front and Rear Radar Detection System
 

K40 (UN3000/SW/SWL) Front and Rear Radar Detection System

Directional Awareness — Know exactly where the police are at all times – dual radar receivers provide directional awareness and increased range to keep you protected from radar threats – two discreet LEDs indicate front (left light) or rear (right light) radar, accompanied by an audio alert that states “front” or “rear” as well as the specific band of police radar.
K-Band Filter — The RL360i intelligently recognizes and rejects radar-based safety features from other vehicles and your own vehicle so you remain focused on real radar threats.
Traffic Sensor Filter — The RL360i will reject alerts from traffic flow sensors usually encountered during highway driving.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7387be6b2f.jpg

LED Brightness Control -- 5 customizable LED brightness settings. Allows you to adjust the intensity of the LEDs depending on the time of day or your visual preference.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f54f3370e8.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0b9950c440.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...68680a35b6.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 248 Dec, 2017

Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate
 

Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate (1995 ZR-1).

The 1995 had a small oil leak on the front Passenger Side Oil Pan 10mm Bolt appearing to be loose Oil Pan Bolts on the front including the four 8mm Oil Pan Bolts. What actually was leaking oil (just enough to keep that 10mm Oil Pan Bolt wet but nothing dripping on the pavement) was the Loose 6mm Bolts on the Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover.

On the 1995 ZR-1 the Oil Pressure Valve Cover Plate is impossible to get to from above because of the EGR. But....one can get to that Cover Plate from below by removing the Passenger side strut that the Passenger Side Motor Mount is bolted to (no pressure on that strut from motor mount). Remove two 15mm bolts toward front and two 13mm bolts on frame rail passenger side. Remove 18mm Nut from Motor Mount Stud and drop the strut. The Oil Pressure Valve Cover Plate can be easily seen toward front where Strut was positioned. The bottom 6mm bolt is easy to unscrew and the top 6mm bolt required a vice grips gripping an 8mm open end to tighten. Both 6mm Bolts with 8mm Heads were replaced with 6mm Bolts with 10mm Heads.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ce0952d547.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1127e30161.jpg

The Trick to STOP oil leaks from the Oil Pressure Control Valve Cover plate.

I replace both top and bottom 6mm x 16mm bolts (8mm Heads) with 6mm x 16mm Flange Bolts (10mm Heads) (Ebay and as pictured above) that have a 10mm heads for a 10mm Box or ratchet Box wrench. It is a lot easier to tighten a 10mm bolt head than an 8mm bolt head which sometimes strips in the small 8mm box wrench. I used Red Loctite on the 6mm x 16mm with 10mm Head Flange Bolts. No need to remove the Oil Pressure Valve Cover Plate or associated gasket.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...54b63ec4ef.jpg

Two 6mm x 16mm with 10mm Head Flange Bolts installed in Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Cover (10mm Heads)
replacing original 6mm x 16mm (8mm Heads) Bolts.
Top 6mm Bolt shown before tightening with 10mm Box Wrench

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ac22309009.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 249 Oct, 2020

All Aluminum Alternator Pulley
 

The Correct Size Alternator Pulley is about 2.75 inch OD on the face....This ALL Aluminum Pulley is very light and just tad larger yet very close to 2.75 inches diameter. It is a little Pricey from Summit Racing. The Installation is very easy with my 15/16 inch modified Combination Wrench and 5/16 inch Allen Wrench.

The MCH-208 is the same Diameter as the Stock Pulley. Actually the MCH-208 is just a tad larger diameter.
Use a 1/2 inch Adapter on Socket Wrench to Unload the Belt Tensioner when removing/installing Pulleys.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...df14e6932f.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...582e156062.jpg

The Offset of the MCH-208 is identical to the Stock Pulley.
The Stock Pulley has a removable Offset Collar which is NOT used in the installation of the Aluminum Pulley.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5aa4ec6409.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...eb3fde9235.jpg

This Pulley can be installed without removing anything including the Serpentine Belt (except the Original Alternator Pulley).
Look for MCH 208 on Summit Racing MCH-208 or Ebay MCH-208

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...729e0d6545.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...46a81a00f1.jpg

Oh.....by the way.....I just invented a New Way to install the Serpentine Belt......Remove the Alternator Pulley (takes 1 minute) and position NEW Alternator Pulley inside Serpentine Belt and lift up the Alternator Pulley and Serpentine Belt with Belt Tensioner compressed (Keep Serpentine Belt aligned with Belt Tensioner Pulley). Now just slip the Alternator Pulley onto the shaft (very easy to do and plenty of play) and tighten up the 15/16 inch Alternator Pulley Nut. :D

Lastly......install the Aluminum Alternator Pulley Cap with the three Allen Head Bolts provided with just a little torque as they are threaded into Aluminum.

If you look closely, you will notice also my ALL Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley.
The inside rim of the Aluminum Alternator Pulley is about 1/16 inch or less from the fan but not touching the fan.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8d236e0441.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...62b467901b.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 250 Dec, 2017

Thermostat and Thermostat Housing Discussion
 

1. Thermostat Discussion

After a New Fluidyne Radiator Install I thought I should go all the way and put in a New 180 deg Thermostat. Marc answered a question I had in that regard. The thermostat for all LT5's is the same. The temperature rating is 180 degs F. In detail, the thermostat begins to open at 175 deg and is fully open at 185 degrees. A thermostat with over 50k miles generally opens 5 degrees later and opens about 85%. The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat

So.....why not. I checked my New 180 deg Thermostat in Hot Water and it started to open at approximately 175 deg. Ready to go...and I had my Post on LT5 Thermostats on hand :yesnod:

Post 7 - LT5 Thermostats
Post 237 - Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

Well......the New Fluidyne Radiator Drain Port worked perfectly. Now to separate the Thermostat Housing Halves. OOPS!!!!!

It all went down hill from there on.....:D

1. Bottom Bolt on Thermostat Housing was frozen Solid. Broke it off.
2. Had to remove Belt Tensioner, to get my hands in to move AC Dryer and to get to Lift Thermostat Housing.
3. Also removing Belt Tensioner gives access to the Spring Clamps on both ends of the Radiator Hose connected to Water Pump.
4. The Hose from Water Pump to Thermostat Housing is the only Coolant Hose I have yet to replace.
5. Disconnected Passenger Side hose to Heater Nipples on Thermostat and got it free (what a corroded mess).
6. Cut the Coolant Hose going over rail to Thermostat Housing.
7. Finally got Thermostat Housing up and out after moving the Top Coolant Hoses connecting Each Injector Housing.
8. Once the Thermostat was lifted up so I could get to the Drivers Side Heater Nipple....Disconnected that Heater Hose.
9. The Water Pump Spring Clamp was completely turned impossible to get a pliers on it so I used an Air Grinder.
10. Oh...ya.....Got the Hose Clamp cut but all I did was cut a piece out that allows you to compress the ends together. Now what a mess :o
11. After a couple hours with a razer blade and screw drivers finally got that hose off the water pump.
12. OOPS.....forgot about the frozen Bolt in Thermostat Housing which I had to use Acetylene Heat.
13. After heating finally got the stud showing to move back and forth and 30 minutes later got the stud out of the Thermostat Housing.
14. Chased the Threads in the Thermostat Housing.
15. The Drivers Side Heater Nipple on the Thermostat Housing has an "O" ring and the inside where the "O" ring resides was corroded.
16. Thanks to Jerry having much more foresight than myself I ordered a New and Improved Thermostat Housing Heater Nipple.

THIS ALL STARTED THIS MORNING AT 9:00AM AND ENDED AT 5:00PM THIS AFTERNOON !!!!!!!!!

This should be titled "You think you got Problems" :lol:

Oh......Checked that Stock Thermostat (must have been stock since the bolts in the Thermostat Housing were frozen solid) for Function.

I suspect it be a 180 deg Thermostat. It started to open at 195 deg and never opened all the way as far as I could tell.

So....what started off a great day with great idea had some tuff spots but ended up solving several issues including Corroded Thermostat Housing, Old Water Pump Hose that needed replacement, Corroded Heater Nipple on Thermostat Housng, and finally found out that what Marc had suggested about Thermostats was exactly what I found with the poor condition of my Stock 180 deg thermostat.

Installed the NEW Jerry's Thermostat Heater Nipple on the Thermostat Housing. After Cleaning up both Heater Nipples and with the New Heater Nipple installed I popped on the Heater Hoses. I acutally used just a tad of Permatex on the nipples for ease of insertion and a bit of additional leak protection. I also installed one new Water Pump to Thermostat Housing Coolant Hose. Fired up the LT5 after filling with Coolant and took it for a spin. No Leaks and Coolant Temperature stayed about 15 deg cooler than with the worn out Thermostat that actually opened at 195 deg (the New 180 deg Thermostat opened at 175 deg).

Just a Heads Up......if you ever have to remove the Thermostat Housing for any reason, have on hand one of Jerry's New Heater Nipples to replaced the old Heater Nipple on the Thermostat Housing. Jerry's New Heater Nipple

As an aside See Item #9 Post 237 - Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats..........My thinking is that the whole purpose of the Dual Opening Thermostat Housing (Thermostat can open at the Temperature side or on the other end at the Pressure side) is to keep Radiator Pressure to acceptable limits. In other words the Thermostat functions when the engine is cool and when the engine is at high rpm.

When the engine is at high RPM, the Bypass on the thermostat will be open completely do to the water pump developed coolant pressure on the bottom of the Thermostat. This Higher pressure being developed at the bypass end of the thermostat because the Thermostat is closed on the Temperature end or because the high water pump RPM is developing too much pressure on the radiator on the Bypass end of the thermostat.

In other words the Thermostat can open on either end (one end temperature controlled and the other end differential pressure controlled). And even it the Temperature End of the Thermostat is fully open, HIGH water pump RPMs may develop greater pressure than the radiator can stand on the Bypass End and the Thermostat would then open on both ends to allow more coolant to recirculate rather than ALL of the coolant flow being forced through the Radiator . 7,000 Engine RPM does that to you :yesnod:

2. Some Thoughts regarding the Thermostat Housing
1. It does not make any difference if you use a 160 deg thermostat or 180 deg thermostat....they both are fully open at 185 deg.
2. I makes no difference if you drill small 1/8" holes in the thermostat flange as the additional flow area (.0123 square inches) is only 1.5% increase per hole over the Thermostat Full Open area of .785 square inches.
3. The Heater Circuit is open at all times even on a cool engine after start as the heater will be the first to get warm coolant.
4. On a very cold day with the heater on and Interior Fans set at Ten, the Heater Core with significant coolant flow could cool the engine for a significant amount of time before the main temperature controlled end of the Thermostat on the radiator side opens. The engine coolant mixed with some air would still expand into the radiator and to the coolant over flow below the passenger headlight.
5. If you want to cool your engine below the temperature controlled thermostat on a cold day or cool your engine a bit more on a very hot day, run your Heater with Interior Fans set at Ten using Outside Air (not recirculate) with windows open. The additional Coolant Flow through the Heater could be as high as 14% of the total coolant flow with 3/8 inch ID Heater Hoses.
6. The bottom of the thermostat on engine side opens at differential pressure of 5psi when open 1/2 inch allowing coolant to bypass the radiator (Marc Haibeck Testing).
7. When the thermostat has not reached opening temperature (175 deg) the coolant recirculates through the bottom of the thermostat at a pressure of 5psi since the coolant flow through the radiator is blocked.
8. Always use original green coolant GM 1825M.

Heater Hose Connection on Thermostat Housing

See Item #2 Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5157b9c25c.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dd0406448e.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a2988b2da3.jpg

Yes....I calculate the notch areas to be about the same area as heater hose area or about 14% of full Thermostat open area. Each of two notches being about 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch. That disc does create the differential pressure to force hot coolant through the Heater Core. According to Marc's test the differential pressure created by the disc is 5 psi at a disc opening of 1/2 inch.

As some may not know.....that disc is what keeps the radiator pressure at acceptable limits at high rpm. As the head loss through the radiator and thermostat increases with coolant flow the disc will open further at pressures over 5psi to a point that coolant recirculating flow path is completely open. You do not want to operate in that condition at very high rpms on HOT days as the coolant flow passing through the radiator is diminished compared to coolant flow recirculating (actually more coolant flow through radiator because of higher water pump flow but more coolant recirculating within the engine which overall is less engine cooling).

See Item #8 The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat

Last UPDATE of post 251 Dec, 2017

Operational Engine Stand
 

Operational Engine Stand
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fb4e917e83.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0c9e677287.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ac97c53636.jpg
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...473a30610b.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4c44e400d8.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 252 Dec, 2017

Buy High.....Sell Low
 

I think the old question will remain "Does anyone know in my area a competent shop to work on my LT5/ZR1?" The ANSWER is usually NO....that kind of shop does NOT EXIST within driving distance that would solve their ZR-1/LT5 issues.

Trouble is....unless you want to drive several hundred miles (or 500-1,000 miles) with a ZR-1 that has issues....this information will not help much (so get out your tools).

Most issues are relatively easy to fix and most want someone that is familiar with the LT5/ZR-1 just to take a look like Jim for example who has set up a help location for the WAZOO folks. I have helped several within 50 miles or so for example and that handful is ALL that ARE within say 100 miles of where I am located in SD or CA :yesnod:

The BEST help is actually the Forums where in asking questions one can find out who is helping and where they are located. And.....most importantly....GOOGLE that will take many directly to the Forums Stickys wherein they can then Join The Forums. Once on the Forum they can then easily locate someone that can possibly take a look at their ZR-1/LT5 issues.

Or learn themselves how to work on their ZR-1s/LT5s as most issues are easy to fix.

The Market is driven by those that buy a ZR-1, cannot fix small issues, and cannot locate a shop.....so sell relatively low.......for me as a buyer :thumbs:

But then once the ZR-1/LT5 is easily restored (A two day job consisting of removing components and fluids, cleaning, maybe modifying and replacing components and fluids) those same folks are scared to get into another ZR-1 because they do not believe once the small issues are fixed you can drive another 100,000 miles without doing much other than possibly removing a plenum (takes 10 minutes after some simple modifications) to check on things or replacing changing the Oil or changing a light bulb :lol:

An Example is changing the Oil Filter on a ZR-1/LT5 which on the ZR-1 if you leave it sit overnight is absolutely the easiest to change the Oil Filter than on any other car or truck I have had. And the Infl Rest does not mean the Air Bag will not deploy...it only means the sensor is not grounded. And it only takes a few minutes to actually ground #17 ECM Red/black stripe wire on Plenum to actually see the Secondaries functioning with a flashlight.......In Other Words....the ZR-1/LT5 is very easy to maintain :thumbs::thumbs:

Last UPDATE of post 253 Jan, 2018

Windshields
 

That is very interesting information :thumbs:

I measured specifics on my 1990 (L98} and 1990 ZR1 windshield........
The clear glass area for radar is the 10" area on the 1990 LT5 and for the 1990 L98 the glass is clear across.......
Everything measures the same regarding the radar cutout.......as there is no radar cutout on the 1990 L98........

The VIN number clear area is identical for the 1990 LT5 and 1990 L98.......
DW01112 and DW01085 Windshields are the same in this regard.
(3-1/2" wide across the windshield and 3/4" high opening) :cheers:
Both LT5 and L98 VIN area openings start 9 " from tip of hood.......
Both VIN Openings are 2-3/4" from bottom of windshield in the colored area on the 1990 LT5 and 1990 L98........

On the 1990 L98 it is clear glass all the way across the windshield above the lower 4-3/4 high Dark colored area.....
On the 1990 LT5 it is mild tinted (Except the Radar Cutout is clear) glass all the way across the windshield above the lower 5" dark colored portion........

The white paper on the 1990 L98 is clear glass all the way across the windshield......

ZR-71 Hit The Nail On The Head :thumbs:

From what we are discussing it appears the DW01112 will be fine except it is not tinted (not Solar)......as ZR-71 describes in detail.........

You can tell that from the photos below wherein you can see a lot easier through the windshield of the L98 on the right......
No Need for Radar Cutout on L98...........

The Windshield DW01112 is NOT Tinted (Solar) like the original DW01085 Solar Windshield installed in the 1990-1995 ZR1s......
Apparently that is the only variation between the DW01112 and DW01085 Windshields as ZR-71 describes above.....
Original 1990-1995 ZR1 Windshields were Solar.........the 1990 L98 windshield is not Solar.......
If you use the standard DW01112 Windshield you can place your Radar or Satelite Watching Devices anywhere on the Dash :thumbs:
Post 50 - Replacing the Windshield and Wiper Motor

Additional Detail Information regarding Tinted ZR1 Windshields......Tinted ZR1 Windshields

................................1990 LT5..................................... ..............................1990 L98...........................
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Last UPDATE of post 254 Mar, 2024

Reserved
 

Reserved



Last UPDATE of post 255 August, 2022

Bilstein Shock Applications and Self Alignment
 

FX3 Selective Rid Control TIPS
FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS

In regard to applications of FX3 Shocks 90-91 and 92-later.......
You can't just change out the gear on top as entire rod needs to be changed due to the valving holes. You can use 92 FX3s in 90-91 Application if you upgrade to the newer controller.

See this from Captain Z
Please take a moment to inspect the small metal gear located on the top of the shock. Often they are broken and must be replaced before the fx3 system will be restored to working order. We have original equipment gears in stock for 1989 to 1991. We have replacement gears for 1992 and later models in stock also. These gears are made of steel finished in yellow zinc dichromate. There are two different gears used on the shocks in the fx3 system. The difference is in the size of the stop located along the lower edge of the gear. The year of your Corvette determines the type of gear used. See photo below.
Visually inspect the gear for breaks and for cracks. Also the gear should not be able to turn in complete circles without stopping. If you can turn it continuously without hitting the stop then it is broken and must be replaced. The gear can be replaced in either position without affecting the operation of the shock.

http://www.captainzcnc.com/sitebuild...arsrevised.jpg

From this it appears to me the setup of the FX-3 is self aligning in all regards...........just want to make sure.

When the ignition key is turned, the system will do a check to be sure it is working properly. The service ride control light should come on momentarily and then go out if all is well. If the light stays on then the system most likely has problems.

The two following observations suggests FX3 Bilstein self alignment IS what I think it is........

Last UPDATE of post 256 Jan, 2018

Wheels
 

Wheels

The 90' wheels (rims) are called Salad Shooters.
The 91' wheels are the same through 93' and are called Saw Blades with the 93' being machined.
The 94' and 95' wheels are called A-Molds.

And even though the Stock Rims may look different by years all Stock Rims are interchangeable for ALL Years 1990-1995.

1990 ZR-1 and 1990 Standard...................1991-1992 ZR-1...........................1993 ZR-1
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3523cd9419.png................https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c61a62cc70.png.............https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c753a20d11.png

.......1994-1995 ZR-1
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The 90' Salad Shooters and 94'-95' A-Molds (Stock or After Market) will clear C5-Z06 with Wilwood Rotors Brake Conversions.
Stock A-Molds have JWL in the 2nd window clockwise.
Saw Blades will NOT Clear C5-Z06 Brake Conversions with Wilwood Rotors without the use of spacers.

For the Standard 1990 Corvette and the 1990 ZR-1 Corvette the Front Salad Shooters are Identical on the 1990s.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bbc3d2c09.jpeg

Last UPDATE of post 257 Jan, 2024

Winter Storage
 

Winter Storage

Here is Simple.............simple in that no mess and no fuss with the ZR-1s for 4 months :thumbs:

1. Install the Battery Disconnect Switch and Disconnect the Battery.
2. Fill the gas tank.
3. Make sure antifreeze is good for at least -15 deg F (3-1/2 balls floating).
4. Park the ZR-1s on floor mats to prevent condensation on a bare unheated concrete floor.
5. Use about 5 sheets of bounce poked into the Plenum Runners.
6. Use a Car Cover to keep the car clean which adds to the heating effect.
7. Do NOT start the car during the winter storage.
8. Move to California for 4 months and Drive the CA ZR-1s.

I Disconnect Battery Cables (Negative Cable on ZR1) when vehicles are sitting over a couple weeks. This includes ATVs, Tractors, Trucks, Cars and they ALWAYS fire right up as if a NEW battery when the battery cables are reconnected. CHARGE BATTERY BEFORE DISCONNECTING CABLES.

The Battery Disconnect Switch and Having an Operational Secondary Full Power Switch

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Keep the fuel tank filled to the top to suppress water condensation.

I use NO SNAKE OIL treatments in gas/diesel tanks but DO FILL FUEL TANKS before any over winter storage. I have noticed on carbureted ATVs that the jets WILL GET GUMMED UP over a long period of sitting where the gas in the carburetor bowel is allowed to completely evaporate.

In cold climates make sure your coolant antifreeze (GREEN for LT5) is at proper concentration for coldest temperatures.

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/213967.jpg

I do use BOUNCE if for no other reason the interior is FRESH in spring. Assisting BOUNCE make sure the ZR1 interior has NO access for mice and keep ZR1 covered so interior is DARK as mice look for lighted access points.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...03a463e0b2.jpg

A moisture barrier will not stop a concrete floor from sweating. It will stop the mitigation of ground water through a slab if done correctly. Sweating is caused by a combination of concrete temperature and weather conditions. If the concrete is cold enough and the temperature and humidity high enough the slab will sweat, regardless of a barrier. I use GETRUNG Flooring on Ebay. See Showroom Mats for ZR-1s

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Last UPDATE of post 258 Dec, 2017

Typical ZR-1 Restorations
 

Typical ZR-1 Restorations

One item not discussed often is reliability

A Typical Top End Restoration of an LT5 will definitely increase reliability when driving and if done properly will actually get reliability close to 100% for those Long Drives. A good LT5 Top End restoration will usually add years of fun driving without any issues.

Once the basic stuff is accomplished (A Top End Restoration including Starter, Alternator, Vacuum System and Valley clean up).......the ZR-1s will run forever. The Top End Restoration usually takes three days.....disassembly and cleaning the first day, Thinking the second day, and Reassembly the third day. The Replacement parts are the normal (Injectors 50% of time, Vacuum System 25% of time, Coils 75% of time, Plugs 100% of time, Plug wires 100% of time, Secondary Linkage (100% of time because it is so cheap to replace). Also 100% of the time I include New Serpentine Belt, New Injector "O" Rings, SS Plenum Allen Bolts, New Charcoal Canister and New PCV Hoses (includes all 4), Fuel Pressure Regulating Valve Vacuum hose, Map Vacuum hose. The rest of the restoration consists of degreasing, wire brushing. pressure washing, painting, and final adjustments including INFL REST reconditioning. Almost forgot.....New Radiator Hoses and New Aluminum Radiators (Fluidyne, Dewitt, Ron Davis), Differential Drain Plug, ZFdoc C4 Beam Plates and new 180 deg Thermostats 100% of the time. And......Haibeck CHIP 100% of the time.

This ALL after a basic Compression Test.

And....And.......Always BLOCK TB Coolant at the Injector Housing and Install Differential Drain Plug as well as ZFdoc C4 Beam Plates.
And.....Always install SS Braided Oil Coolant Hoses as well as Billet Aluminum Pulleys (Water Pump, Power Steering, Belt Tensioner).
And......ALWAYS Change ALL Fluids for a good starting point.
And.......Sometimes install C5-Z06 Calipers with Wilwood Rotors and SW Headers/Exhaust (That Combination goes together).
Sometimes install a new Oil Pan Gasket just to keep any and all oil off the garage floor. This includes checking the Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate.

I do some other stuff like the guy who has 5 ZR-1s just because working on the LT5/ZR-1 is soooooooo much fun.

1991 ZR-1 restored with 500+ horsepower

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...79e590a14d.jpg

As I recall.....the guy with the 5 ZR-1s picked them up for between $14K and $19K (19K for a 95 in mint condition).

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e354a2334e.jpg
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#72 1990.....one of the first ZR-1s built

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#3032 1990.......the last ZR1 sold to public

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Top End Restoration on 1990 #2067

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Last UPDATE of post 259 Dec, 2017

Summary of ZR1 Restorations including 95' Crate Engine
 

Summary of ZR1 Restorations including 95' Crate Engine

A. Under the Hood
1. The first test I always do on a LT5 is a compression test if it runs good or not (210-220 lbs within 5 lbs each cylinder). This verifies that the valves are in good shape as well as rings, pistons......
2. from there I verify the vacuum system by noting the vacuum pump cycles.........I then know the condition of the vacuum system and valves.
3. I make sure Oil Pressure is normal and always check for all External Oil and Coolant Leaks.
4. Before I remove the Plenum I check ALL Codes to see the minimum requirements of a Restoration (I use my ALDL Code Reader to check and erase Codes on 90'-95' ZR-1s).
5. I then remove the Plenum and check Injector Resistance (I usually install NEW Injectors and Injector "O" Rings).
6. If the engine was not running smoothly, I seriously consider new Coils.
7. I always recondition the starter Solenoid and Starter Armature Bearings.
8. I replace old leaking Vacuum Connectors as required.
9. I then install New Plugs and often New Plug Wires.
10. Before I replace the Plenum I always Block Injector Housing TB Coolant.
11. I also replace gaskets (including the Crankcase Cover Gasket).
12. Re-install Injector Housing Bolts were there were indications of oil leaks.
13. Use nothing on the New Plenum Gasket and tighten the Plenum Bolts snug with one extra tug on Socket since no Coolant is involved after TB Coolant Blocking.
14. Raise the Plug wires to the TOP of Injector Housing to get the Plug Wires off the top of the rear of the Cam Covers.
15. Jerry sends me NEW PCV Connections and MAP Hose as well as New Fuel Pressure Regulator Vacuum Hose.
16. I usually install a rebuilt Alternator.
17. ALWAYS replace the Serpentine Belt.
18. Replace the Belt Tensioner Pulley.
19. I Also......ALWAYS replace the Thermostat with a NEW 180 deg Thermostat.
20. ALWAYS replaced the Stock Radiator with a multi core Aluminum Radiator.
21. Always replace the Air Filter for the Intake.
22. Install a Intake Screen for air going through the Oil Cooler, AC Condenser and Coolant Radiator.
23. There are other items I recondition such as valley Drain and Check ALL Electrical Connectors to DIS.
24. I Replace Crankcase to Injector Housing Vent Hoses (two).
25. Usually replace the Secondary Port Throttle Linkage NEW from Jerry.
26. I sometimes install an Oil Catch Can.
27. I ALWAYS replace the Charcoal Canister.
28. I sometimes Install Z06 Brakes with Wilwood Rotors.
29. I have installed ZFdoc Rebuilt Black Label Transmission with short shifter in a 95' ZR1 (all I can say is WOW!!!).
30. I ALWAYS Install Marc Haibeck Latest Performance Chip which in particular changes the operation of the Coolant Fans and Engine Spark Timing.
31. Check and Install New Spark Plugs as necessary.

A. Blow all debris off Cam Covers using 90-100 psi Air Pressure.
B. Pull ALL Rubber Spark Plug Boots.
C. I use a rolled up sheet or tube of paper towel to swab up the oil if any inside each Spark Plug Port.
D. You do not want to remove the spark plug first as there may be some debris you do not want to fall into the cylinder.
E. After ALL Oil is eliminated in Spark Plug Ports.......Use the 90 psi Air to blow into each Spark Plug Port.
F. Use a tad of White Grease around each raised rim (just below the Top Rim) of each boot to make installation easy.

B. Outside Engine Compartment
1. If INFL REST Codes I ALWAYS Re-install the Air Bag Accelerometer (both sides) to make sure of a super Ground Connection.
2. I Sometimes Replace Front Shocks.
3. ALWAYS Check Tow-In Wheel Alignment to assure about 1/8" Tow In (after braking going forward).
4. ALWAYS Install Fresh NEW Fluids ALL AROUND.
5. Install Differential Drain Plug.
6. ALWAYS Install ZFdoc's (Bill's) C4 Beam Plates and Re-align the C4 Beam with proper torque on each end.
7. If tires are original, I install NEW Tires (Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance on Front and Nitto NT 555R Drag Radial on Rear).
8. I did have one new windshield installed by Safelite provided by Dave (which windshields are perfect).

C. Bling
Water Pump Pulley
Belt Tensioner Pulley
Power Steering Pulley
Oil Filter Cover
Power Steering Reservoir Cover
Brake Fluid Covers
Windshield Wiper Fluid Covers
Coolant Overflow Covers
Radiator Cap Cover
Throttle Cables Clamps
Fuel Line Bracket
Dip Stick Handle
TB Coolant Cover

D. 95' Crate Engine.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...67912dcd11.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...90843e02d5.jpg
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Last UPDATE of post 260 Dec, 2017

90’ (#8550) Corvette (L98) Modifications
 

90’ (#8550) Corvette (L98) Modifications

Summary of 1990 (L98) Reconditioning/Modifications (#8550)

New SW Headers
New Magnaflow Exhaust
New TPiS Air pump delete kit with New Billet Aluminum Pullley.
New 180 deg thermostat
New Chrome Water Pump
New Chrome Alternator
New Plug wires
New C4 Beam Plates
New Wilwood 6 Piston, 13" Drilled Rotors
New Differential oil drain plug (drilled and tapped)
New Differential oil drain plug
New Billet Aluminum oil cap
Existing Aluminum Radiator
New Oil Pan and Gasket including New Milodon 18309 Oil Pump Pickup
Fluids Mobile 1 75W-90 Differential oil (limited slip)
Fluids Mobile 1 10W-30 synthetic Engine oil
Fluids Castrol TWS 10W-60 Transmission oil
Eliminated Water Pump Frisbee and added Aluminum Water Pump Pulley
Eliminated Air Induction system
Eliminated CATS
Eliminated EGR
Doc Don's Bose
Refurbished Starter
Modified Oil Cooler Use NAPA 8020 and 9808 hoses cut to length
L98 Oil Cooler Housing Modifications for Headers
Modified Marc Haibeck Chips

87 octane calibration (ARFPCL)
29 deg at WOT.
Enabled manual transmission.
Both fans to go on at 195 and both off at 190 degs.
Added +5% at WOT fuel to support +20 hp from headers.
Disabled deceleration fuel cut off.
Disabled EGR.
Idle speed is OE at 600 rpm.

91 octane calibration (ARFPCL1)
29 deg + 4 deg = 33 deg at WOT.
Enabled manual transmission.
Both fans to go on at 195 and both off at 190 degs.
Added +5% at WOT fuel to support +20 hp from headers.
Disabled deceleration fuel cut off.
Knock retard reduced by 50%.
Disabled EGR.
Idle speed is OE at 600 rpm.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3e2b2a17cf.jpg
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SW Headers and with Magnaflow Exhaust

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b5c1faea28.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 261 Sep, 2019[/color]

Oil Cooler Modifications
 

Oil Cooler Modifications

I had to modify my oil cooler with two additional slots so I could rotate the Oil Cooler and associated Hoses a bit more towards the block away from SW Headers ;)

I rotated the oil cooler such that the two long bolts (of the spin on oil filter adapter) fit in the
new slots of the oil cooler. I then tightened the big hex nut on the oil cooler :thumbs:

I used new NAPA 8020 and 9808 hoses cut to length replacing the old oil cooler hoses shown which work perfectly.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c06d974565.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2c096de360.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b6d1b3c962.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 262 May, 2022

Timing Chain Cover/Water pump Interference
 

Timing Chain Cover/Water Pump Interference

I know this has come up before but am not sure if there is another water pump out there that would work for my 90'. The back of stock water pump has a plate and bolts which interfere with the JEGS cast aluminum timing cover (I would say 1/8 inch interference when water pump backing plate bolts are removed).

Is there any water pump with just a bit more clearance on the back side with the same distance to the center of the water pump pully from face of engine :smash:

The JEGS Spectre 4935 cast alumimum timing chain cover is extremely nice and sturdy....not tinny :yesnod:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0678232780.jpg

L98 Water Pump Modifications


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...430c0878c.jpeg

Last UPDATE of post 263 May, 2022

Air Pump Eliminated
 

Air Pump Eliminated

1. The Air Induction System removed from a 90' L98

I installed SW headers with Magnaflow Exhaust without the Air Induction on my 90' L98 :cheers:

Eliminate The L98 Air Pump :thumbs:

Air Pump Eliminator from Mid America Motorworks or TPiS Air Pump Delete

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4e2b96d2a0.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2efc378635.jpg

In this case I replaced the plastic Idler Pulley with a New Billet Aluminum Pulley.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ba7774dfb0.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3cbbad6f2.jpeg

Last UPDATE of post 264 May, 2022

Aluminum Finned Oil Pan including New Milodon 18307 Oil Pump Pickup
 

Aluminum Finned Oil Pan and Gasket including New Milodon 18307 Oil Pump Pickup

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da4f0dce5e.jpg

1. The Oil Pan Modification began by draining the Coolant such that the Oil Cooler line could be separated under the Oil Pan. The two Front Angled Struts under the front of the Oil Pan were removed (two 18mm and two 14mm bolts each).

2. The Bell Housing Shield had to be removed to remove the Oil Pan. This required that the Starter be removed. The Starter was reconditioned by separating components, cleaning and repacking the gears and bearings with grease, and reconditioning the Starter Solenoid (wire brushing the contacts and cleaning the cylinder.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dc3acbb98d.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...067b6d356c.jpg

The Thickness of the new one piece blue gasket and the thickness of the New Aluminum Oil Pan Bosses is 1/8 inch
thicker than Original Oil Pan flange, flange stiffener (separate bar on each side) and gasket. This required that New
longer Oil Pan bolts be used as shown on left in photo.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8aef5bacaf.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0dfec93dd5.jpg

3. The Existing Oil Pick Up shown at top in photo will be replaced by the Milodon Oil Pump Pickup to fit inside the
Aluminum Finned Oil Pan shown at bottom in photo.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...173e4eb570.jpg

Milodon 18307 Oil Pump Pickup.
The Milodon 18307 shown below is the correct Oil Pump Pickup to be used in this application which intake will end up in front of the Oil Pump.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ab3c94b674.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 265 Dec, 2017

Rebuilding Chrome Alternator
 

Rebuilding Chrome Alternator

A GM CS144 Alternator Rebuild was found on YouTube (By the Alternatorman) as follows which is the best Video I have seen.

All the Internal Alternator Parts between the Front Cover and Rear Cover (including Bearings, Voltage Regulator, Capacitor, Brushes, and Rectifier), are available on Ebay. In this case the Rectifier was toasted by maybe a screw driver stuck in the wrong place from the rear frying a Diode. The Chrome Alternator now charges perfectly.

1. Standard Motor Products RX131 Alternator Brush Assembly
2. NEW HEAVY DUTY VOLTAGE REGULATOR FOR DELCO 13120469, D677, D685, D698, VR472
3. Standard D-72 Alternator Rectifier - Diode(N) or Rectifier Assembly

A very nice Billet Aluminum Pulley is also available on Ebay.
This Alternator Pulley is the correct size replacing the Stock Alternator Pulley.
The Serpentine Belts does not have to be changed in most installations. MCH-208 Pulley installed See All Aluminum Alternator Pulley

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9ceeb47a55.jpg

Alternator Major Parts

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1b07eabce1.jpg

Bench Testing Alternator Components
A. You can check the resistance of the Stator with Ohm Meter (checking each of three Stator wires to Stator Housing). Should NOT be an open circuit.
B. You can check each Diode with the Diode checker on Ohm Meter. Should be Infinity one direction and low reading other direction.
C. You can check the continuity and shorting of the Circuit from the Capacitor to Top Brush. Should be Infinity Reading on Ohm Meter.
D. You can check Bottom Brush to ground.....should be zero Ohms on Ohm Meter.
E. With Alternator assembled you can check Battery Post to Case with Diode checker on Ohm Meter. Should be infinity one direction and low reading other direction.

Rotor and Front Cover Separated from Rear Cover holding the Stator, Rectifier, Regulator, Capacitor, Brushes

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...50ed31c6fc.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7df09dae48.jpg

Rear Cover with Stator Removed..................................Rear Cover with Rectifier
Be careful when removing Rear Cover
as Brushes can get caught on Rotor Bearings

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...322b06abec.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...657e4b1d5b.jpg


Front Cover showing Input Shaft and Bearings

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...17624081e2.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 266 Dec, 2017

SS Air Intake
 

SS Air Intake

A Stainless Steel Air Intake with K & N Air Filter was added.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ee18565416.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e16abcdfd0.jpg

The Stainless Steel Air Box has been offered for those that want to add Bling and Higher Intake Air Flow for the LT5 or L98 :thumbs:

1. SS Air Box Installation and Air Filter Selection

George Braml fabricates the SS Air Box.

Just an installation tip....If you use that Orange FRAM Air Filter you will find it about 1/4 inch too high. The bottom end of the SS Air Box Square Filter Retainer lip will not engage the Built In (L) of the Air Box at the bottom end as shown in the first photo (the Orange Fram Air Filter has a gap at the bottom end). You will also notice the two Retaining screws for the Square SS Air Box Filter Retainer have tilted towards the engine indicating the top Square Retainer has moved upward out of the SS Air Box (L) at the bottom end.

If you look closely at the SS Air Box Square Filter Retainer you will see a cut out about 1/4 inch deep and the width of the Square Filter Retainer on the bottom end. The height of the Air Filter cannot be higher than that cut out (The Orange Fram Filter is about 1/4 inch higher than that cut out).

The K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter is the correct Air Filter matching the SS Air Box Cut Out.

George Braml did a perfect fabrication job on the L98 SS Air Box as he did on the LT5 SS Air Box (Both SS Air Boxes are IDENTICAL) :thumbs:

2. Facts and Photos

The L98 and LT5 SS Air Box and Air Filters are Identical.

A. The Air Filter opening is 9.5 in x 16.25 in or 154 square inches (both OEM and SS).
B. The Air path inside the Air Filter housing to the oval outlet is 1 in x 17.25 in or 17.25 square inches (both OEM and SS).
C. The OEM metal cover Louvers are 3/8 in x 4 in or 1.5 square inches and there are 24 Louvers or 36 square inches for Air Flow into the Air Filter area (OEM only).
D. Space between top of OEM metal Louvered cover and closed hood exceeds 1 inch all around (more space with SS Air box since metal louvered cover is not used.
C. Using SS Air Box with FRAM decreases the space between top of Air Filter and closed hood by 1/4 inch or 12.5 square inches around the perimeter of the Air Filter.
D. Using the SS Air Box with K&N High Flow Air Filter eliminates the need for the OEM metal Air Box cover (36 inches of air flow area) making available the total air flow area of 154 square inches to the K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter.
E. The K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter is Washable and Reusable. K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter

SS Air Box installed with FRAM Air Filter with bottom of Filter Square Retainer not engaged

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ee18565416.jpg

3. Technical Discussion
The air is drawn from top side of Air Filter in the OEM set up through the louvers in the metal cover. There is a gap of at least an inch between that Air Filter metal cover and closed hood (OEM or SS Air Box).

With the SS Air Filter housing, there is NO metal cover and air is drawn from air gap between the filter and closed hood not restricted by the 36 square inch Louver area of the OEM Metal cover. With a K&N High Flow Air Filter that gap is 1/4 inch larger (than when using a FRAM Air Filter).

The OEM filter housing metal cover will accomodate both FRAM and K&N 33-2035 Air Filters. The difference between the SS Air Box and OEM Air Box is that the SS Air box rides a bit higher requiring the 1/4 inch Cut Out for the small front crossover (see photos of the bottom of both the OEM and SS Air Box.

Because of the Cut Out the SS Air Filter housing with correct K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter will sit at the same height as an OEM Air Box. However if you use a higher FRAM Air Filter that exceedes the Cut Out height in the SS Square Retainer, the overall height of the top of the filter has changed and will interfere with the front small corss over. This will in turn cause interference bwtween the FRAM Air Filter and small cross over preventing the Top Square Retainer of the SS Air Box from engaging at the bottom end.

The L98 and LT5 are IDENTICAL in regard to these issues as the OEM Air Filter housings are IDENTICAL and the radiator shrouds appear to be IDENTICAL in regard to top side of that shroud.

K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e16abcdfd0.jpg

5. Powder Coating or Painting SS Air Box
I did not Powder Coat or Paint the SS Air Box as it looks very very nice as a SS Machined look and the welding is absolutly perfect......so why cover up with Powder Coating or Paint :cheers:

Last UPDATE of post 267 Dec, 2017

C4 beam plates and Installation (ZF S6 40 Transmission)
 

C4 beam plates and Installation (ZF S6 40 Transmission)

1. Advantages of C4 Beam Plates.
a. The C4 Beam Plates also tie together each pair of bolts (Transmisison pair and Differential pair) with a SS Plate vice aluminum.
b. Each C4 Beam Plate also offers a larger contact area of the tensile bolt loads onto the C-Frame. This eliminates the wear on the "C" Frame from a smaller original washer and resulting release of bolt tension.
c. The C4 Beam Plate also acts like one big washer wherein the tensile load from each individual bolt is now shared a bit between bolts (minimum effect).
d. The C4 Beam Plates correct the condition caused by the bolt holes in the Aluminum C-Frame getting bigger or elongated with wear or the thickness of the Aluminum C-Frame from top to bottom between the original bolt two washers becoming worn so that thickness is less releasing bolt tension.
The C4 Beam Plates are definitely worth it if only for the Bolt Load Distribution (Two BIG SS washers on each end) on the C Frame and Ease of Installation. Take Note of the additional Stiffeners on each C4 Beam Plate (The BIG H). There is a BIG Difference between a Clamping Load distibution by two washers and the Clamping Load on ONE BIG PLATE on the Transmission Yoke as well as the Differential Housing.

2. Captured Free Floating Nut Design.
The C4 Beam Plates by Bill Boudreau have Free Floating Captured Nuts on the Top Plate as previously mentioned (which is a bit more complex in manufacture than a welded nut on a plate) This Captured Nut allows the Nut to Float a bit making it even easier to catch with the bolts as you insert them from the bottom.

This Captured Free Floating Nut Concept also allows self equalization of the distance between bolts (as if you are inserting them singularly THE TOP BOLT HOLES ONLY) especially after having one bolt started. The Nuts float and are prevented from turning by the design of the Capture. This Free Floating Capture of the Nuts in the Bill Boudreau Design is more important from an engineering concept (even if only floating on the TOP END) and overlooked by many in this discussion :thumbs:

3. Installation of C4 Beam Plates.
a. ALIGN DRIVELINE COMPONENTS: Take the following measurements directly above and to the right of the Propeller shaft front yolk universal joint between the C-Frame and the inside of the underbody.
b. To ensure proper alignment of the driveline, a clearance of 45 mm +/- 6mm (1.77 in +/- 0.236 in) must be maintained between the top of the support to the underbody. I set the clearance to 1.5 in to account for unloading deflection when I remove the hydraulic jack supporting the transmission.
c. A clearance of 28 mm+/-6 mm (1.1 in +/- 0.236 in) from the (passenger side of vehicle) right side of the support to the side wall.
d. Do not use any of the 4 original C-Frame bolt washers on the front (Transmission) or rear (Differential) bolts.
e. Tighten support bolts at Carrier (Differential) to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).
f. Tighten support bolts at Transmission to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
g. Do not go over the Bolt Torque on the Carrier and Transmission or you risk changing the Dimensions of the Carrier and Transmission Connections.

C4 Beam Plate Installed On Differential ......................C4 Beam Plate Installed On Transmission
........................................ ........................................ ..Note C4 Beam Plate Bevel Location

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b37b2768a2.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9b63a197e3.jpg

4. Why Take Measurements?
It is kind of a corny measurement since you are measuring between the C-Frame and the side wall/Underbody which is heavily coated and made of light steel and the accuracy of the measurement needs only to be within 1/4 inch + or -. I think you are just making sure you did not put an angle in that front driveline U-joint by moving the transmission appreciably during the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.

A Quick Measurement in regard to Transmission Yoke height can be checked from inside the car by measuring the height of the Shifter. A height of 6.25 inches from the counsel to the top of the shifter (at the center of the shifter in neutral) will be very close to the correct transmission height.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0f425d37b5.jpg

a. The 1.77 in spacer should fit between the top of the driveline support to the underbody. The 1.1 in spacer should fit between the right side (passenger side) of the driveline support to the side wall.
b. You might check that alignment spacing before you start the project to see where your alignment is now. Then just keep that alignment with the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e2303c6760.jpg

Secondary to Transmission/Driveline Alignment is ground clearance of Transmission Drain Plug. The Transmission Drain Plug clearance to ground is approximately 4 to 4.5 inches on my ZR-1s which is NOT the lowest point on the ZR-1 Drive Train/Chassis. The Ground Clearance depends on many things including Tire Pressure, Tires, Wheels, and Suspension.

5. Caution on Jacking the Engine.
Always remove the C4 Beam plate bolts on the transmission yoke when jacking/lifting the engine to minimize potential of twisting transmission yoke or C-Frame.

USE A TORQUE WRENCH

C4 Beam Plates and Installation

Last UPDATE of post 268 Dec, 2017

Oil Pan Drain Plug/Differential Case Drain
 

1. Oil Pan Drain Plug.

2. Differential Case Drain Installation

Installed an aftermarket Differential Case Drain Plug for easy fluid change.
The kit is available from Corvette Central

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...02cfb6023e.jpg

The kit provides a template that puts the hole just left of the center bolt in the valley of the differential.
Original Photos provided by Scrrem with Red notes added.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...73d2c529c4.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d8c1507d67.jpg

The tap size is 1/8-27 pipe and it installs easily with drill (11/32) and tap supplied in the kit.

I drilled the bottom flange just under the ring gear and let the old fluid drain (which drained in about 10 minutes). I then tapped the drilled hole for the 1/8 inch allen pipe plug. When you tap the hole, try the pipe plug several times as you tap so you end up with the pipe plug out maybe 1/16 inch when tight .

I pumped in a pint of Mobile 1 75W-90 and let that drain cleaning out a lot of old oil and any tap debris. 1/8 inch Aluminum Allen Head NPT pipe plugs

I inserted the 1/8 inch allen pipe plug and pumped in a bit over 3 pints of Mobile 1 75W-90 into the fill port on the North side of the differential (Z facing West)

The Differential case can be COMPLETELY drained and flushed with new oil using this method as compared to trying to suck out the old oil.

Last UPDATE of post 269 Jan, 2018

Wilwood Brakes 1990 Corvette/1990 ZR1 and Wheel Alignment
 

Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337 (red powdercoated six piston calipers 13" Rotors)

1. The Wilwood 140-8337 Brake Kit was installed on a 1990 Standard Corvette (12" Rotors replaced with Wilwood 13" Rotors).
2. The Wilwood 140-8337 Brake Kit was also installed on a 1990 ZR1 Corvette (13" Rotors replaced with Wilwood 13" Rotors).

The stock Wheels (Salad Shooters) on the 1990 Corvette had plenty of clearance between the wheel and Wilwood Caliper. The Wilwood Caliper is a bit wider than the stock 1990 Corvette Brake Caliper.

1991 Sawblades were installed on the 1990 ZR1 in which case I used 1/8" Spacers between the Rotor and the wheel to increase wheel spoke clearance (I used Shims to center the Caliper on the Rotor which resulted in moving the Caliper closer to the Sawblade Wheel Spokes).

The Hats are first torqued 100 in-lbs each of 12 bolts to the Rotors (Twelve 1/4x20 bolts with 8mm 12 Point heads).

The Rotor is installed on the Wheel Bearing Hub. Two threaded bolts holding the Wilwood Adapter to the Wheel Bearing Hub Housing are torqued to 150 ft-lbs.

The Caliper is installed on the Wilwood Adapter (30 ft-lbs) with correct shims to center the Rotor within the Caliper. The Caliper also has to be adjusted on the radius of the Rotor such that the Brake Pads are completely on the surface of the Rotor.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2f24b71ec1.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0299d13e0c.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6624d6667a.jpg

The new Wilwood Caliper Adapters were installed using the original 21mm Hex Head bolts during both installation (1990 Standard and 1990 ZR1 Corvette).

The Brake Kit came with many shims to assure centering of the Rotor with the Calipers. No shims were required in the Standard 1990 Corvette installation. 2 shims top and bottom of the Caliper adapter on one side and three shims top and bottom on other side of 1990 ZR1 installation were required (I used Shims to center the Caliper on the Rotor which resulted in moving the Caliper closer to the Sawblade Wheel Spokes).

Shims are used to center the Rotor within the Calipers (The larger shims)?
Using the larger shims actually moves the caliper closer to the Wheel Spokes.

Shims are also used to align the Brake Pads on the Wear Surface of the Rotors (The small shims)?

The need for shims varies from wheel to wheel. Wilwood provides 12 large shims (.015") and 16 small shims (.025") with each 140-8337 Brake Kit.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bcd2f5bc36.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2c73ae2b13.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...042f501077.jpg

The stock Brake Lines were replaced with a Wilwood 220-8338 Flexline Front Brake Line Kit in both Standard 1990 and 1990 ZR1 installation.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0299d13e0c.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4fdaeb5d7e.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d91de86cd3.jpg

2. 1990 Standard Corvette Compared to 1990 ZR-1 Corvette with 1991 Sawblade wheels
The Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337 will fit the Standard Corvette and the ZR-1.
All the measurements are identical.

Standard Corvette.....
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2968118625.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4f745beaf4.jpg

ZR-1 Corvette.....
The ZR-1 wheel spokes (Sawblade wheels) are within about 1/16" of the Wilwood Caliper. Spacers adding an additional 1/8" gap between the Sawblade Spokes and the Wilwood Caliper were installed between the Hat and the Wheel. The 1/8" Spacers leave enough wheel bolt thread for complete engagement of the wheel Lug Nut.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dacf1236c4.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4a4bc7c6d1.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...511ba0a498.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a99ea82c.jpeg

Salad Shooters on the front of a ZR1 do not require spacers for a C5-Z06 Front Brake Upgrade......
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bbc3d2c09.jpeg

3. Wheel Alignment
Adjust Caster, Camber and then toe....... in that order.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fcda4e5cf.jpeg

Caster is most difficult and I adusted that to level out "pull" between right and left front wheel but mostly by eyeball.
The Caster is always Positive.

Camber I found the use of a level adjusting camber by adjusting two sets of spacers on the upper control arm.
The level was used very accurately on reasonable level concrete with level in the vertical position against the upper and lower tire side wall.
(Making sure the level is near the front or rear of the tire to eliminate side wall deflection at the bottom of the tire from wheel load)
I set the camber at zero or level bubble centered for both the right and left front wheels. The Camber for Rear wheels is actually Negative which I do not change as long as it is equal for left and right rear wheels and rear wheel tire wear is normal each side.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e012e536fe.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f0b32f0e37.jpg

Toe was a bit more complicated by setting up a taught fishing line on both sides of the wheel base at the center height of the wheel.
The fishing line was set within 1/16" of both sidewalls of the rear tire with a 1/16" gap between line and side wall of tire.
I then adjusted steering on one side of front tires so that front sidewall of front tire was also 1/16' gap between line and tire sidewall. (You can take measurements between wheel rim and line also to confirm).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3f1a39c012.jpg

I then repeated this on other side of vehicle (without adjusting steering) paying specific attention to gap between front side wall of that front tire and line. This is your initial Toe.
I then loosen lock nut on Tie Rod on that side and adjust toe. I then repeated the process several times It is better to adjust Wheel Toe with the front Wheels on small plastic sheets or fine sand to eliminate turning drag between two front wheels.
I shoot for 1/8" total Toe-In. (A 22 mm Open End Wrench was used to loosen the 22 mm Tie Rod locking nut and a Crescent Wrench was used on the flats of the Tie Rod to adjust for Toe).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...91806d5dce.jpg

On the ZR-1 the rear tire sidwwalls are further out than the front tire sidewalls. Just measure from the line to the rim of the wheel (from front of tire and from rear of tire).

Last UPDATE of post 270 Oct, 2022

Modifications Summary 5 ZR-1s
 

Modifications Summary 5 ZR-1s

All have C4 Beam Plates, Billet Aluminum Pulleys (Alternator, Water Pump, Power Steering, Belt Tensioner), Carter Bling, Oil Cooler SS Braided Hoses, TB Coolant Blocked, New 180 deg Thermostat, New Radiator Hoses, Radiator Debree Screen, Haibeck Chips (91 Octain), New Aluminum Radiator, New Charcoal Canister, Starter Relay, Battery Disconnect, Full Power Key Reconditioned, INFL REST Sensor Re-installed, New Linkage for Secondary Port Throttles, New Secondary Vacuum System, New BKRSEIX Spark Plugs, 10W40 Amsoil Engine Oil, 10W60 Castrol Transmission Oil, 75W90 Mobile 1 Differential Oil and Differential Case Drain, New Serpentine Belt, New Hood Support.

1. 1990 #2067 UL LOSE
1990 Z 1G1YZ23J7L5802067
SD 76,300 miles Nov 2012
AYBKG4GS1a Haibeck 91 Octane
New 124 Amp R111799A Alternator
Re-conditioned Starter
Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator
Full Power Key Reconditioned
New Coils
Air Induction Eliminated
SS Air Intake
New Water Pump
SW Headers/Exhaust
New Nitto Tires
Wilwood C5 Z06 Brakes
Oil Catch Can

2. 1990 #3032 ULNOTWN (Last 1990 Sold)
1990 Z 1G1YZ23J4L5803032
SD 57,750 miles June 2014
AYBKG4 Haibeck 91 Octane
New 124 Amp R111799A Alternator
Re-conditioned Starter
Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator
New Fuel Filter
Full Power Key Reconditioned
Fluidyne Radiator
New Heater Core
New Nitto Tires NT555 F, Dunlop 8000 R
RC Injectors
Air Pump Delete
New Windshield

3. 1990 #0072 UWLNTWN
1990 Z 1G1YZ23J1L5800072
CA 38,000 miles March 2014
AYBKG5 Haibeck 91 Octane
New 124 Amp R111799A Alternator
Re-conditioned Starter
Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator (1st edition) Mar 2018
Yellow Plug inside Drivers Re-installed
Replaced CDM
Ron Davis Radiator
New Fuel Filter Sep 2016
RC Injectors
New NT555 Front Dunlop 8000 Rear
New Wheels Saw Blades
New Windshield/Weather stripping (David Johnson) Apr 2016
Oil Catch Can
New Oil Pan Gasket Sep 2016
Air Duct SS Support Hoops
Air Pump Deleted
New Gauge Oil Pressure Sensor
Braided SS Oil Cooler Lines

4. 1991 #1427 BAD Z
1991 Z 1G1YZ23J4M5801427
CA 50,000 miles Mar 2009
BFXBG2CS2 Haibeck 91 Octane
Full Power Key Reconditioned
New 200 Amp Alternator
Air Induction Eliminated
SS Air Intake
Replaced CDM
Ron Davis Radiator
RC Injectors
1990 Heads 27K miles with modified Injector Housings.
SW Headers, Air Injection Eliminated
New Nitto Tires NT555
Modified Camshafts
Ported Plenum/Inj Housing
Secondaries Eliminated
Wilwood C5 Z06 Brakes
Oil Catch Can
New Oil Pan Gasket
New Blue Label Transmission
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a47660b740.jpg

5. 1995 #0186
1995 Z 1G1YZ22J5S5800186
CA 87,600 miles Apr 2016
BMCBG4 Haibeck 91 Octane
Dunn Heads Left and Right
Full Power Key Reconditioned
Injectors Fuse Issue Red Wire Looms
New 200 amp Alternator
Fluidyne Radiator
New Fuel Filter July 2016
Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator Mar 2018
Wilwood C5 Z06 Brakes
Oil Catch Can
Rebuilt ZFdoc Black Label Trans with short shifter Aug 2015
New U-Joints Main Drive Shaft
New U-Joints Half Shafts
New Rear Wheel Bearings

1990 1G1YY2382L5108550
CA 56,000 miles July 2009
EGR1990 L98 UWONTWN
ARFPCL Haibeck Low Octane installed
SW Exhaust
Eliminated Water Pump Frisbee
Eliminated Air Induction system
Eliminated CATS
Chrome Alternator
Chrome Water Pump
Billet Aluminum Oil Pan with New Oil Pickup
SW Headers with Air Injection Eliminated
Ron Davis Radiator
Oil Filter Adapter Modified to fit with SW Headers

1991 Bebuilt
91' heads 28K miles Corvettenutz
with painted cam covers CA installed in rebuilt 91’
91' LT5 36K miles CA Jan 2015
Extras
91' Heads 36K miles CA Jan 2015
91' transmission 36K miles CA Jan 2015
95’ Tramsmission 88K miles CA (ZFdoc)
95’ Crate Engine
91’ Injector Housings PCV Restricted
91’ Heads Plained Bad Z CA
Rebuilt 91’ Bad Z Trans installed in 95’ Aug 2015
91zrocket 90’ Heads with 27K miles in BAD Z PCV restricted
91zrocket 90' Transmission 27K miles SD

AUAH 8555. Stock first half SD spare
91’ AXFK Stock Last Half
90’ AYBK Stock
91’ BFXBG2JE Fans On 165 deg Haibeck
91’ BFXBG2CS3 Low Octain


Last UPDATE of post 271 Mar, 2018

Installation of Crate Engine in 1995 ZR-1
 

Installation of Crate Engine in 1995 ZR-1

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...902f8e08df.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bf9025ebc9.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...823179b5e0.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4b41f7b77f.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...61afdb2596.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b67d020dfc.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6a18b0cf85.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 272 Feb, 2019

New Rear Wheel Bearings and Half Shaft U-Joints

New Rear Wheel Bearings (SKF BR930024)
Just completed installing SKFBR930024 rear wheel bearings as recommended by Phil (Jagdpanzer) :cheers:
Also installed Spicer U-Joints (Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints w/Coated Caps for Alum Half shafts) in the Half shafts as well as new Brake Pads :D

SKFBR930024 rear wheel bearings and some smaller tools used to install the U-Joints, Half Shafts, and Bearings. The three (Torx T55). bolts that hold each Rear Wheel Bearings in the Bearing Housing are shown. The Torx T55 is shown on the 3/8 inch socket and the smaller 1/4 inch socket and extensions were used to remove the Half Shaft U-Joint straps. The needle nose vice grips were used to remove the Spicer U-joint spring clips from within the Half shaft. The larger ball bean hammer was used to remove the Spicer U-joints and caps from the Half Shaft using a couple sockets (one 22mm and one 35mm).
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d32c8f5006.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6b1a280f2c.jpg

The original Rear Wheel Bearings in this 95' with 95K miles were not really loose in any way but there was some lubricant that had leaked our of the bearing indicating time for a change. If there is black oily dust collected around the bottom of the bearing or around the U-Joints....time for a changeout of Bearings or U-Joints.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...91315e3fee.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...998f18f0b5.jpg

After removing the 36mm Axle Nut (using a pipe extension on a 3/4 inch socket wrench)…..The BIG Trick was the disconnection of the lower Sway Arm just below the Rear Bearing Housing and then pulling the bottom of the housing out about an inch or so using a come-a-long attached to my truck ;)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1c6ea8bc27.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5ac310608e.jpg

The Half shaft was then easily disconnected and removed out the bottom where the Sway Arm was disconnected and lowered on the Bearing End. The Axle spline floats within the bearing once the Axle Nut is removed allowing free play for removing the Half Shaft if you pull a bit on the bottom of the Bearing Housing. That "Trick" worked perfectly :thumbs:

Once the Half Shaft was removed, the Spline was slipped out of the bearing from the inside of the Bearing Housing before using the Torx T55 to remove the three Bearing bolts from the inside of the Bearing Housing. The Rear Wheel Bearing was then removed from the front.<br />The two large bolts are one from each Sway Bar beneath the Bearing Housing.

The two spline Teflon coated washers shown were coated with Brake pad grease (had it on hand) and the splines were coated with anti-sieze before re-installation into the New Rear Wheel Bearings.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...683b5bf016.jpg

Also drilled out the Cotter Pin hole in the axle shaft to 3/16 for a tight fitting 3/16 cotter pin.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6a3e94c3c2.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4fa7adf2bf.jpg

The Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints were installed using a couple sockets (22mm and 35 mm) to remove the old U-joints and install the Spicer.
The smaller socket was used on top of the yoke on the top U-Joint Cap (tapped firmly) such that the top cap is forced into the yoke. The larger socket was used on the bottom of the yoke with the U-Joint bottom cap forced into the larger 35 mm socket.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5a200c66b0.jpg

Dana Spicer 5-3615X U-Joints with spring clips are shown. The Half Shafts are marked (left and right......inside and outside).
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...62ef3892be.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6cd8947979.jpg

1995 ZR-1 Dunn Heads Left and Right
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4ed9a9a343.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0d1b7c15b1.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d3d41dfe07.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 240 Sep, 2018



Last UPDATE of post 273 Feb, 2017

Cooler Termostats, Thermostat Modifications and Engine RPM
 

Cooler Termostats, Thermostat Modifications and Engine RPM

Here is what I have found regarding LT5 Stant Thermostats.

1. You want to run the engine at coolant Temperatures of 180 deg as the design requirement...……...Running cooler Thermostats only helps at coolant temperatures below 180 deg F. Simply because once the 180 deg Thermostat and 160 deg Thermostat are fully open at 180 deg, Coolant flow is the same through each Thermostat.
2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal additional Coolant Flow...….A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.
3. The Stant Thermostat Opens a bit less with age......…...Marc suggests a 15% deterioration in Full opening area of the Thermostat over time as the Thermostat ages.
4. Lastly, The LT5 Water Pump Flow is proportional to Engine RPM. ......The LT5 Water Pump Flow rate is insufficient at RPMs less than 2,000 RPM for adequate Coolant flow at the higher Ambient Temperatures. Larger Aluminum Radiators DO compensate for inadequate Coolant Flow at low RPMs. Fans Turning on at 205 deg F do help considerably. And KEEP The Radiator, Oil Cooler, AC Condenser CLEAN.

Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

See Post 120 - Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling

Last UPDATE of post 274 Nov, 2018

The Best Belt Tensioner Pulley
 

This Powder Coated Steel Belt Tensioner Pulley is the Best that I have installed so far. :thumbs:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1143bd4054.jpg

This Tensioner Pulley would last a Very Long Time as it is Powder Coated, Steel, and Exact size as Original.

This Powder Coated Steel Belt Tensioner Pulley is on Ebay......Belt Tensioner Pulley

I installed the Powder Coated Steel Pulley with the Boss on the inside :cheers:
The Tensioner Pulley Boss is shown in the above image.

I did check several "polymer" original Belt Tensioner Pulleys and they all show wear similar to the wear of the Belt Riding Surface of the aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulleys.
I would suggest that either the Aluminum or Polymer Pulleys will last 100,000 miles given the wear I see on the riding surface of moderate mileage Polymer or Aluminum Tensioner Pulleys .

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7f1ce3782c.jpg

The aluminum Pulley on the left has a riding surface wear of about .003" in over 5,000 miles. The Polymer original pulley on the right has more similar wear on the belt riding surface but more miles. The thickness of the belt riding surface of the aluminum Pulley is .106". Assuming a tolerable wear of the belt riding surface of 1/16" the life would be about 100,000 miles for the aluminum Pulley with 1/16" thickness of the riding surface left which should be adequate for structural capability. The same life estimate goes for the original Polymer pulley. The various types of Belt Tensioner Pulleys should be checked for wear periodically as Belts vary in age, texture, flexibility and tension. The Pulley Bearings should also be checked for smoothness of rotation and "play".

Also, this all depends on the Belt slippage with respect to the Belt Tensioner Pulley Riding Surface under rapid rotational acceleration of the engine (Revving) especially in neutral (Going from 800 rpm to 7,000 rpm in a second or two for example). The Belt Tensioner Pulley is probably spinning at twice that rpm given it is half the diameter of the Harmonic Balancer and just cannot angular accelerate that fast from 1,600 rpm (Idle) to 14,000 rpm in under two seconds. The Belt may actually slacken a bit between the Harmonic Balancer and Alternator during hard revving.

The three Belt Tensioner Pulley failures known appear to be the result of a failure of the Belt Tensioner Pulley Bearing.

The Steel Powder Coated Tensioner Pulleys should show NO wear on the belt riding surface of the Pulley over time simply because they are Powder Coated on Steel.. The greater weight of the Steel Tensioner Pulleys will result in greater Belt slippage on the riding surface of the pulley during rapid changes in engine rpm (revs in neutral) due to greater resistance to angular acceleration.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4b41f7b77f.jpg

You will notice only the Water pump Pulley and Belt Tensioner Pulley rides on the back smooth side of the belt. The Water Pump Pulley has almost a complete Belt Wrap while the Belt Tensioner Pulley has almost no wrap at all. This leads to the assumption that there is potential for much greater slippage during high REVS in Neutral of the Belt Tesnioner Pulley. You may also notice the gap between the two insides of the Belt (opposite the Belt Tensioner) on this Crate Engine which indicates considerable Belt Tension. This is unlike some where the gap is less than an inch indicating a rather loose Belt which would slip more during High Revs.

All of this discussion is probably moot given the Belt Tensioner, Belt, and Belt Tensioner Pulley should probably be reconditioned between 50,000 and 100,000 miles to avoid having to carry spare Belts and Pulleys :thumbs:

I install several Powder Coated Steel Belt Tensioner Pulleys and will be interesting how the Powder Coating stands up with use.
I also checked several original "Polymer" Belt Tensioner Pulley Bearings (Average 50,000-70,000 miles) and found a couple that were a bit rough when turning indicating a bearing needing replacement. Most Pulleys do allow for replacement of the bearing only.


Last UPDATE of post 275 Sep, 2022

Air Filter Installation
 

The Air Filter Installation

The outside filter gasket (part of the filter) that fits into the cover is.....
17-3/8" by 10-5/8" outside dimensions and inside dimensions of the cover.....

The Air Filter fits up into the Cover.......not down into the Air Filter Housing.

A. K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter

B. K&N 33-2035 High Flow Air Filter

This is for a 1990 ZR1 or 1995 ZR1....I assume for all ZR1s 1990 to 1995.

The Air Filter total height can be up to 1-1/2".
I show the Air Filter Housing, two ZR1 filters and the filter cover in the photo.
The 1990 Air Filter Housing has the hose connection on the Drivers side for the Air Injection Pump.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fa94e1c3f6.jpg

1. General Installation

There are three cap screws.....the Center Cap Screw is shorter than the other two on outside. The Center Cap Screw is inserted into the filter housing after the the filter is installed in the cover (Tighten the center Cap Screw before the complete filter housing is placed in front of the radiator). The Center Cap Screw screws into the filter housing only.

Make sure the five tabs are inserted into the filter cover. The five tabs are part of the filter housing (not the air filter).

The other two cap screws are inserted into the filter housing after the filter housing is placed in front of the radiator. Those two Cap Screws screw all the way into the radiator housing and are tightened after the complete filter housing is installed.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...895b82748c.jpg

2. Connecting the Air Filter Housing to the Plenum

Lastly the Corrugated Flexible Air Connection between Filter Housing and engine Plenum air intake (Leave the Corrugated Flexible Air Connection connected to the Plenum Air Intake. The Filter Housing end of the Air Connection is slipped onto the Filter Housing before the Filter Housing is screwed into place with the two outside Filter Housing Cap Screws. The Air Corrugated Connection is tightened with a Band Clamp (Screw Band Clamp....use 7mm 1/4" socket with extension or flat head screw driver).

3. Details for Installing the K&N Air Filter

Installing a K&N 33-2035 is a bit complicated for the simple reason K&N provides foam spacers that can be compressed to different thickness which should cover the alignment issues of the "Plastic" Air Box........but an Air Box that is not flat at the Air filter Cover interface within 1/4" presents a problem when the interface is warped significantly more than 1/4". A NEW AIR BOX IS THEN REQUIRED unless the gaps between the box and Air Filter Cover can be filled with Silicon Seal or some other filler.

Use the provided K&N lubrication on the filter gasket (flat part) with the filter inserted into the Top Cover facing into the Top Cover. I then remove the filter from the Top Cover and set in place on the K&N foam gasket of the Filter Housing (which Foam Gasket is glued in place with Gorilla glue) if the foam gasket does not stick in place.

The "Trick" is to lubricate the Filter Gasket rubber facing the cap screws (towards rear of car). The Filter Top Cover is then positioned by inserting the five Tabs into the Top Cover (while keeping the Filter positioned on the Filter Housing). Then while keeping the five Tabs inserted, press down on the rear of the cover as it "slides" (the reason for the lubrication at that location) down in place on the filter as you tighten the middle front Cap Screw (THIS IS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART).

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a6fb0c298c.jpg

Documentation of the Installation of the K&N 33-2035 Air Filter.........It is a bit complicated to install a K&N 33-2305 Air Filter. These instructions come with the K&N 33-2035 Air Filter.....

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a528c08040.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...34f23adc7f.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 276 Oct, 2022

Reserved

Last UPDATE of post 277 Feb, 2017

30K mile Lt5 Parts Value

Plenum $499
Plenum throttle cable clips with screws $75
Complete set of OEM plenum bolts $35
Rubber double vacuum line connector to plenum Sold
Injector housings $399
Injector Housing bolt set. $35
Throttle body $450
Throttle cover $49
Throttle body bolt set $35
Air horn Sold
Coolant pipes to IH $199
Fuel rail with pressure regulator $399
Fuel rail bolts 4 $10
Fuel lines from rail the chassis. $199
Pressure regulator vacuum line $15
16 fuel injector clips $35
Map Sensor with plenum bracket $85
Map Sensor with the ECM bracket $85
2 secondary actuators tested good $75 ea.
Secondary vacuum reservoir $55
Secondary vacuum solenoid $65
Complete secondary system vacuum hoses Tested to hold vacuum. Includes the check valves and other under plenum vacuum hoses as well. $99
DIS Module $1200
1 secondary injector control module $299
Stock 1990 Memcal Chip AUAH coded. $189
4 Coils Original with coil tray. $149
Coil tray mounting bolts 4 $10
2 sets of original AC hoses. Rubber hoses in good flexible condition. One set is slightly dented but functional, priced accordingly. $199 undented $99 dented.
AC compressor mounting bolts 3 $15
Alternator mounting bolts 4 with brackets $35
Original coolant hoses with the metal distribution pipe. $199
IAC Motor $25
Intake air temp sensor $25
Both under plenum water temp sensors $35
2 sport seat air pumps, tested working (came with the lot) $35 ea.
Drive shaft with the yoke attached $299
ZF S6 Transmission Black Label $2299
Cam cover vent lines both sides. $39
Complete engine wiring harness. Sold
Dual Mass Flywheel very tight $349
Clutch disk $99
Pressure plate $249
Throwout Bearing Green INA $139
Dip Stick and Tube $135
2 New Knock modules (90’ only) $75 ea

ZR1 with 6800 miles.............

Coolant Outlet covers (Right and Left, Pair) - $300
Spark Plug wire Set (Corvette Lt5) - $200
Intake Plenum - $400
Throttle Body - $400
Intake Air Horn - $65
Fuel Injector Housing (Pair) - $800
Fuel Rails (Pair) - $225
Fuel Rail Crossover Tubes - $115
Fuel regulator - Sold
Coil Tray with 4 Coils - $110
Ignition Control Module - $800
Alternator - $100
Clutch Master Cylinder - $75
Clutch Slave Cylinder - $75
Clutch Master to Slave line - $40
Secondary linkage, diagrams, shielding and hardware - $175
Exhaust shielding (5 pieces) and bolts - $125
PCV valves and crossover - $75
Engine shielding (7 pieces) - $135
Positive battery cable - $40
Negative battery cable - $35
Bellhousing, fork, pivot and Dust Shield - $325
Starter - $135
Power Steering Pump - $125
Power Steering Pump Bracket - $85
Power Steering reservoir and hose - $40
Front Leaf Spring - $85
Rear Leaf Spring - $85
Front Leaf Spring Mounting Hardware - $45
Rear Leaf Spring Mounting Hardware - $45
Front Sway Bar and Mounting Hardware - $100
Rear Sway Bar and Mounting Hardware - $100
Front Selective Ride Shocks (pair) - $200
Front Electrical Actuator (pair) - $250
Rear Selective Ride Shocks (pair) - $200
Rear Electrical Actuator (pair) - $250
Front Shock Mounting bolts - $15
Rear Shock Mounting Hardware - $35
Intake Air Horn Bolts - $20
Water Pump Bolts - $35
Fuel Injector Housing bolts - $40
Exhaust Manifold bolts with spacers - $40
Throttle Body shield and bolts - $40
Coil Tray Bolts - $15
Ignition Control Module Bolts - $20
Alternator Bracket and bolts - $40
Flywheel Bolts - $30
Coolant outlet cover bolts - $25
Transmission to bellhousing bolts - $20
Bellhousing to Engine bolts (Includes dust shield bolts) - $30
Water Pump to A/C bracket and bolts - $30
Intake Plenum Bolts - $30




Last UPDATE of post 278 Feb, 2017

ZR-1 Check List
 

ZR-1 Check List

Just some Clarifications on severity of issues found on several ZR-1s......all fixes found in signature.

Do ask what Fluids have been used and Do Change ALL fluids on a ZR-1 when purchased...….see Post 3 - LT5/ZR-1 Fluids

Do Run a Compression Check on ALL Cylinders once ZR-1 is received.

Used ZR-1 Evaluation Checklist (Ccmano and Dynomite in RED).
Injectors Have they been replaced
Vacuum leaks There will be minor vacuum leaks which do not effect performance unless you replace the vacuum lines and connectors ($100 Ebay)
Secondaries operable Can be viewed by grounding Hot wire (pin C17) on ECM
Ingnition coils and wires replaced A Note of reference if the engine stumbles
Timing chain noise (normal to a small degree on 90's) Only before full oil pressure within 10 seconds
Starter Most often the Starter Solenoid Points need reconditioning
Oil leaks especially the pan and oil cooler lines Check the Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate
Fuel pumps Keep in mind Jim's Fuel Pump Switching connector
Is it throwing any engine, abs or body codes (multiple possibilities here) Mostly INFL REST which is easy fix
Are any DIC lights on. (Multiple possibilities here as well)
Is the adjustable shocks system working Replaced shocks on two Zs
Windshield delamination I had Safelite replace a 1990 windshield which I furnished with new gaskets
A/C functionality (compressor is unique to the Z, cooling capacity lower) Replaced Dryer, Fittings and added R12 on one ZR-1, R134 on 95'
Power switch functionality and keys (are there 2) Power switch fix (disassemble and bend points into position)
Transmission syncro's, (first gear is always noisy) shifter alignment can mimick synco problems. Had one Trans Rebuilt by ZFdoc
Clutch functionality (they all let in high, was it ever changed) Have replaced clutch plates and use Needle Pilot Bushings
EGR system on later models
Engine mounts No Fixes on 5 Zs

C4 Issues
Head lights operable Simple fix changing tip up Gears
Radiator blocked or simply clogged, electric fans operable Usually leaves and sometimes oil contamination from Oil Cooler Leaks but that is rare (install debris screen)
Wheel bearings Replaced Rear Wheel Bearings (good at 90K miles) and drive shaft/half shaft U-Joints on high mileage 95'
Suspension bushings No Fixes on 5 Zs
Condition of all door, top and hatch seals Window frame seals sometimes ragged
Glass roof cracking No Fixes on 5 Zs
Instrument cluster functionality especially the tach (tends to read high with age) also note the lighting of the cluster No Fixes on 5 Zs
DIC button functionality No Fixes on 5 Zs
Steering wheel excessive movement No Fixes on 5 Zs
Radio functionality (especially speaker amps) and antenna Usually CD may not function send to Doc Dons (Amps inexpensive Nissan Max 975s or 075s)
Sport seat functionality (transmission, switches, pumps and bladders)
Door window switches No Fixes on 5 Zs
Door window lifter and internal rattles No Fixes on 5 Zs
Fuel tank bladder collapse (results in small capacity) No Fixes on 5 Zs
Differential noise (whine) No Fixes on 5 Zs

Additionally...…..
1. Have replaced tires, Coils, Plug Wires, Plug on some Zs and have Replaced ALL Vacuum lines and Connectors on ALL Zs ($100 Ebay).
2. Have upgraded Air Intake, Brake Rotors and Brake Calipers, Headers and Exhaust, Injectors on some Zs.
3. Have Added Oil Catch Cans on some Zs, Modified Fuel Pressure Regulators on ALL Zs.
4. Have done a Top End Restoration on ALL Zs including Starter, Valley Drain, including New Thermostats and New Aluminum Radiators on ALL Zs.
5. Have Eliminated Secondary System on one Z.
6. Have installed MarcH Chips on all Zs.

Last UPDATE of post 279 Feb, 2019

What To Look For When Buying A ZR-1
 

What To Look For When Buying A ZR-1

Here’s a list Ccmano (Hans Meyer) and Dynomite (Cliff) put together some time back.

Injectors, Have they been replaced
Vacuum leaks, indicated by high idle. There will be minor vacuum leaks which do not effect performance unless you replace the vacuum lines and connectors.
Secondaries operable, can you feel full power mode. Can be viewed by grounding Hot wire (pin C17) on ECM
Ingnition coils and wires replaced, A Note of reference if the engine stumbles
Timing chain noise on cold start (normal to a some degree on 90's) Only before full oil pressure within 10 seconds
Starter, is there history of starting issues. Most often the Starter Solenoid Points need reconditioning
Oil leaks especially the pan and oil cooler lines, Check the Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate
Fuel pumps, have they been replaced.
Is it throwing any engine, abs or body codes, SES light on (multiple possibilities here)
Are any other DIC lights on. (Multiple possibilities here as well)
Is the adjustable shocks system working Replaced shocks on two Zs
Windshield delamination, foggy around outside of windshield. I had Safelite replace a 1990 windshield which I furnished with new gaskets
A/C functionality (compressor is unique to the Z, cooling capacity lower) Replaced Dryer, Fittings and added R12 on one ZR-1, R134 on 95'
Power switch functionality and keys (are there 2) Power switch fix (disassemble and bend points into position)
Transmission syncro's, (first gear is always noisy) shifter alignment can mimick synco problems. Had one Trans Rebuilt by ZFdoc
Clutch functionality (they all let in high, was it ever changed) Have replaced clutch plates and use Needle Pilot Bushings, leaking Master or slave.
EGR system on later models, rough idle, hesitation.
Engine mounts, hard to diagnose without visual inspection.

C4 Issues
Head lights operable Simple fix changing tip up Gears
Radiator blocked or simply clogged, runs hot, electric fans operable. Usually leaves and sometimes oil contamination from Oil Cooler Leaks but that is rare (install debris screen)
Wheel bearings, Replaced Rear Wheel Bearings (good at 90K miles) and drive shaft/half shaft U-Joints on high mileage 95'
Suspension bushings,
Condition of all door, top and hatch seals Window frame seals sometimes ragged
Glass roof cracking or crazing.
Instrument cluster functionality especially the tach (tends to read high with age) also note the lighting of the cluster.
DIC button functionality.
Steering wheel excessive movement (tilting) when entering car.
Radio functionality (especially speaker amps) and antenna Usually CD may not function send to Doc Dons (Amps inexpensive Nissan Max 975s or 075s)
Sport seat functionality (transmission, switches, pumps and bladders)
Door window switches
Door window lifter and internal rattles
Fuel tank bladder collapse (results in smaller capacity)
Differential noise.

Last UPDATE of post 280 Sep, 2019

The Improved LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator
 

A. The Stock LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator.
The Stock LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm is often corroded and when it fails it will leak gasoline into the Plenum through the Vacuum Port on the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It is the Corrosion within the Stock FPR that would cause Injector Failures as that corrosion is beyond the Fuel Filter.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...acee060b4a.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...04938ff986.jpg

B. The Improved LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator (IFPR).

Jagdpanzer (Phil) has designed an Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator using an unmodified Delphi FP10016 Fuel pressure Regulator installed in the LT5 Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing. The Delphi FP10016 is rated at 49 psi. Delphi FP10021 is rated at 56 psi and Delphi 10023 is rated at 43 psi. Both Delphi FP10021 and Delphi FP10023 appear identical in physical characteristics to Delphi PH10016. Any one of the three Delphi would be compatible with the Modified LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing. The Delphi can be installed or removed using a 2.5 mm Allen once the Fuel Pressure Regulator has been modified without removing the Plenum.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5b8b5e3d3f.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed552e4baa.jpg

The Delphi FP10016 Fuel Pressure Regulator
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...71c3f4aaa6.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...78f2b95e41.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3d02d75adb.jpg

The Delphi FP10016 is NOT modified in this Application......
there are five items that come with the Delphi FP10016
(Plastic Adapter, Screen and snap ring with two
additional sliders) that Phil does NOT use.

See Potential Fuel Pressure Regulator Solution

The IFPR was tested on a 1990 (#72) ZR-1 in CA.
See 1990 (#0072) LT5 Top End Rebuild (Ron Davis Radiator)
See Continued........Minimum Restoration of a 1990 (#0072) ZR-1

1. Initial Fuel Pressure Tests of Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator (SFPR).
With Engine On at Idle (850 rpm).
Engine idled at 850 rpm with Fuel Pressure Reading 42 psi.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cc4890a7c3.jpg

2. Installing the IFPR.

See Removing Plenum (including the 10 minute Plenum Removal)

Have on hand Jerry's Fuel Pressure Regulator "O" Rings
Also have on hand Jerry's Plenum Gaskets
And maybe Jerry's set of 48 Dowty Washers

Use a bit of white grease on all the "O" rings
to make it easy to slip the Fuel pipes into the Fuel Rails and FPR Modified Housing.
There are 9 "O" rings and six screws required.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4025551d13.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9ba11f529e.jpg

IFPR Installed in Fuel Rails and Fuel Rails installed in LT5.
See Tech Info - RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp) Calculations
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ece4b9e9b2.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e128c51101.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...080de161c5.jpg

3. Installation Detail.

The IFPR Delphi vacuum port can be rotated 360 degrees. The Allen Head screws can be loosened and the Unmodified Delphi Fuel Pressure Regulator rotated either direction within the Modified LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing. .

For this application the Delphi can be rotated so the nipple touches the Allen Wrench which allows tightening of that Allen Screw after the Delphi is rotated counter clockwise (Left Photo). The Rubber Connector can be connected on the nipple as there is clearance between the Rubber Connector and the Allen Head Screw (Right Photo).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a492362965.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...507a2ffbc6.jpg

The Vacuum Connection Nipple on the Delphi FP10016 actually slopes upward which makes it easier to connect the Rubber Vacuum Connection to the IFPR.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d6500fb6ae.jpg

4. Initial Fuel Pressure Tests of IFPR.

A. With Engine On at Idle (850 rpm) vacuum line connected to IFPR.
Engine idled at 850 rpm with Fuel Pressure Reading 40 psi (Left photo).
B. Engine Idled at 850 rpm with Vacuum line to IFPR disconnected
Fuel Pressure Reading is 52 psi (Right photo).

No Leaks......

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...07aae4ba34.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9a602d432e.jpg

5. Fuel Pressure Accelerating and on Cruise.
(Engine in Full Power Setting for all tests) A 1995 ZR-1 with Stock FPR and
a 1990 with IFPR were tested with identical results.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...915a2b5bd9.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed552e4baa.jpg

No issues........no stumbling in any gear and very smooth in cruise.
A. Cruising in 1st-5th at speeds up to 60mph resulted in Fuel Pressure of 42 psi except when decelerating pressure dropped to 38 psi.

B. Accelerating in all speeds resulted in Fuel Pressure increasing smoothly to 48 psi while accelerating only then the pressure backed down to 42 psi.
C. At FULL Throttle the Fuel Pressure spiked at 52 psi in all gears.
D. Cruising at 80 mph in 6th gear resulted in Fuel Pressure stabilized at 43 psi just a tad above idle pressure of 42 psi.

This is identical to what BlackZR1 experienced while testing Fuel Pressure while Driving.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1ef3a6e718.jpg

Short roundtrip to Fresno (100 miles).....No issues and no stumbling in any gear and very smooth in cruise.
Getting 27mpg - 28mpg in sixth gear going 70mph which was identical to mileage using Stock Unmodified FPR which indicates the IFPR behaves exactly like a Stock FPR that BlackZR1 Tested While Driving with various Throttle Positions.

6. Quarter Mile run to determine IFPR performance under WOT conditions.

Over 100 mph with soft shifts with No Stumbling. Identical to Quarter Mile Results with Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator.

7. Overall Observations of performance of the IFPR during Initial Testing.

The IFPR using the Delphi FP10016 is identical to the Stock FPR in terms of Fuel Pressure. The IFPR Installation requires the removal of the Plenum and removal of the Fuel Rails. Have Jerry's New Fuel Rail/Fuel Pressure Regulator "O" rings on hand as good time to replace Fuel "O" rings. Also have on hand 2 Plenum gaskets. The FP10016 performed perfectly under all driving conditions (1/4 mile, cruise, Hot, Cold, idle).

8. Long Term Test of IFPR.

I see no issues for long term use as I have now tested two IFPR with over 300 operating miles. It will now be so easy to change out Delphi FPR removing failed Delphi (may never fail once installed) or change out the Dephi (for higher pressure or lower pressure Dephi) from the Modified Stock FPR Housing which take only a couple minutes (release fuel pressure in Fuel Rails first). I have installed one Prototype IFPR and two Production IFPR with the same results.....NO LEAKS and PERFECT Performance under ALL Driving Conditions.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5b8b5e3d3f.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed552e4baa.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...944ac891fd.jpg

I have been driving every day and even a 100 mile trip.....
Perfect all the way.....NO ISSUES.....
The IFPR was also tested on a 1995 ZR-1 with no issues.
Installation was identical and operational characteristics were identical.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ccd8511002.jpg

9. Summary

The IFPR (with Delphi FP10016) performed perfectly with identical Fuel Pressure of the Stock FPR (The IFPR behaves exactly like the Stock FPR while Driving. The Stock FPR Housing is the only item modified with Stock Delphi FP10016 unmodified for adaptation of the Delphi FPR. The Production IFPR installed was adjusted by loosening the Allen Head screws and rotating the Stock Delphi for perfect alignment of the vacuum port making it easy to attach the vacuum line. The IFPR will work on 1990 - 1995 ZR-1s with identical installation methods and operational capability.

Ebay Delphi Delphi fuel pressure regulator FP10016

10. Observations and Conclusions.

I have run into a couple Stock FPR that have failed. The Stock FPR are almost impossible to find and very expensive. Changing a Stock FPR out on the road will be almost impossible. With the IFPR changing out a failed FPR on the road will be a 5 minute job albeit the Delphi will likely NOT fail for a long time.

See Changing Out Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator (IFPR)

There does exist several Delphi FPR with different Pressure Ratings and it would be easy to change out a Dephi with a different pressure rating. The Delphi FP10016 is identical to the Stock FPR in terms of Fuel Pressure. Delphi FP10016 is rated at 49 psi. Delphi FP10021 is rated at 56 psi and Delphi 10023 is rated at 43 psi. Both Delphi FP10021 and Delphi FP10023 appear identical in physical characteristics to Delphi PH10016. Any one of the three Delphi would be compatible with the Modified LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing.

Pulling the Plenum for most is a BIG deal and most often the Plenum is Pulled to install New Injectors or to fix a No Start Situation or an Alternator. I would say if you install New Injectors or recondition your Starter or install a reconditioned Alternator...then also install the Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator at the same time.

1990 LT5 and 1995 LT5
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2722289df2.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...84726e9598.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...232b586450.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 281 Mar, 2018

Changing Out Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator (IFPR)
 

The Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator (IFPR)

The Delphi installed in the Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing (Designed and
Fabricated by Jagdpanzer (Phil)) can be changed out in a couple minutes on the road.
One of Several Delphi can be installed with the Delphi FP10016 being identical to the Stock
LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator in Performance.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5b8b5e3d3f.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed552e4baa.jpg

The Delphi FP10021 can also be used in the Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing.
(Delphi FP10016 on left and Delphi FP10021 on right)
Both FP10016 and FP10021 having identical physical characteristics.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dfd6d4d954.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3d02d75adb.jpg

1. Changing Out the Delphi FP10016 Fuel Pressure Regulator requires a 2.5 mm Allen Wrench.
First relieve the Fuel Pressure in the Fuel Rail by loosing the Fuel Lines wrapped with a paper towel from the Fuel Rails
(release the Fuel Tank Pressure by removing the Fuel Cap).
When Installing Delphi FP10016 the Vacuum nipple should just touch
the Allen Wrench shown below.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a492362965.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3ec8aa7183.jpg

2. Disconnect the Vacuum Line and remove the six Allen Head Screws and the Retainer Ring.
(Best to loosen the six Allen Head Screws and lift the screws with washers out with the Retainer Ring).
Remove the Delphi FP10016 leaving the Lower Seat Washer in place.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...36c2f79396.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d847d1d5e2.jpg

3. The Removed Parts in the Change out of the Delphi FP10016.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...86aa4ab87c.jpg

4. Install the New Delphi FP10016 with the Blue "O" Ring, Black "O" Ring Washer, Black "O" Ring.
Make sure the Seat washer is installed in the IFPR Housing
(Seat Washer not installed in Photo).
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7660102baf.jpg

5. Install the Retainer Ring with Allen Head Screws and Washers installed in the Retainer Ring.
(be careful not to tip the Screws out as you insert the Retainer Ring over the Vacuum Nipple).
Install the Vacuum Connector.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...63d0de4eb6.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0f0946287a.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 282 Feb, 2018

Phil's (Jagdpanzer) Fuel Pressure Regulator Solution
 

Phil's (Jagdpanzer) Fuel Pressure Regulator Solution:cheers: :thumbs:

1990 ZR-1 #72 with the IFPR

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5b8b5e3d3f.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed552e4baa.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...eae9deba1d.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2722289df2.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ccd8511002.jpg

1990 ZR-1 #2067 with the IFPR

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7af717e075.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...eb980e476d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c4749204ac.jpg

1990 ZR-1 #3032 with the IFPR

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4f3764819b.jpg

1995 ZR-1 #186 with the IFPR

I see no issues for long term use as I have now tested three IFPR (2-1990 and 1-1995) with over 300 operating miles. It will now be so easy to change out Delphi FPR removing failed Delphi (may never fail once installed) or change out the Dephi (for higher pressure or lower pressure Dephi) from the Modified Stock FPR Housing which take only a couple minutes (release fuel pressure in Fuel Rails first). I have installed one Prototype IFPR and two Production IFPR with the same results.....NO LEAKS and PERFECT Performance under ALL Driving Conditions.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...944ac891fd.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...84726e9598.jpg

The Delphi FP10016 is NOT modified in this Application......there are five items that come with the Delphi FP10016 (Plastic Adapter, Screen and snap ring with two additional sliders) that Phil does NOT use.

Phil has eliminated the plastic ring, the screen and the snap ring and is using the "O" rings.

See The Improved LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator

Pulling the Plenum for most is a BIG deal and most often the Plenum is Pulled to fix a No Start Situation, an Alternator or to replace Injectors. I would say if you recondition your Starter and/or install a reconditioned Alternator or New Injectors...
then also install the Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator at the same time :thumbs:

Post 281 - The Improved LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator

Post 282 Changing Out Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator (IFPR)

Last UPDATE of post 283 Mar, 2018

New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System
 

New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System for 1990-1995.

1. Installed New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System for 93'-95' (easily modified for 90'-92').
Now have zero vacuum leaks on three 90's, and one 95' ZR-1(One 91' has secondary vacuum system removed).

Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da8458b135.jpg

This is an absolute Must Do if you Really are serious about reconditioning the
Secondary Port Vacuum System (the original Rubber Connectors are Hard and Deteriorated).

2. New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System for 1990-1995.

This complete NEW vacuum system designed for the 93'-95' can be installed on a 1990-1995 ZR-1. For 1990-1992 this can be accomplished by substituting the longer Manifold Differential Pressure vacuum line on the original 1990-1992 ZR-1 Vacuum System for the shorter curled MDP Vacuum line in the New 93'-95' Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System.

The New vacuum system connectors are New soft rubber and easy to disconnect connectors which are very tight (just twist the plastic tube back and forth and they will let loose). The Original hard rubber connectors are impossible to disconnect without cutting the connector lengthwise (with razor blade) to remove the plastic tube.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f0c7c5c7b3.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...934a8d5d84.jpg

3. Modifications (re-arrangement of connectors) of the New Secondary Vacuum System to fit 1990-1992.

A. The Tee (T) was moved and a 1 inch long 1/8" Fuel Line PCV/EEC (SAE 30R7 obtained at O'Reillys) was used as a splice where the T was located. The T was installed for the Drivers Side Secondary Canister which is identical to the Stock

B. The Stock 1990 Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) Vacuum Line was used and added to the New Secondary Vacuum System. I replaced the stock L fitting on the 1990 MDP was replaced with the New L fitting removed when T was re-installed for the Drivers Side Secondary Canister which is identical to the Stock 1990 Secondary Vacuum System configuration.

C. In this case I also used the Stock line with New L fitting from the check valve to the Vacuum Pump line as that Stock line was just a bit longer

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...14c9b96567.jpg

New 1993-95 ZR-1 LT5 Corvette/Stock 90-92...........Modification of 1993-95 ZR-1 LT5 Corvette
Secondary Actuator Vacuum Control Lines.................Secondary Actuator Vacuum Control Lines (90-92)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...934a8d5d84.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...59a4f5663f.jpg

New 1993-95 ZR-1 LT5 Corvette Secondary ...............Modified 1993-95 ZR-1 LT5 Corvette Secondary
Actuator Vacuum Control Lines..................................Actuator Vacuum Control Lines (90-92)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f0c7c5c7b3.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9b7b0f848.jpeg

Went for a test drive with the 1990 and ALL is perfect :thumbs:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2d8a0934e3.jpg

4. New Secondary Vacuum System Availability.

These New Secondary Vacuum Systems for 93'-95 which can easily be modified for 1990-1992s are offered on Ebay for $100 but one can buy them with an offer for less :D

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...189605ba83.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 284 Dec, 2019

Alternators
 

Alternators.

The Ultima 124 Amp Alternator - Remanufactured R111799A from O'Reillys fits the 1990 ZR-1 perfectly. This Alternator costs $100. The Ultima is a bit heavier with the body a bit larger in diameter with identical mounting points as the stock Alternator. The Ultima 124 Amp Alternator fits perfectly under the Plenum of the LT5.

I have taken this #72 ZR-1 with Phil's Improved Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Rebuilt Ultima 124 Amp Alternator on several Quarter Mile Runs and one 100 mile round trip with NO ISSUES. I have yet had to replace any Rebuilt Alternators from O'Reillys :thumbs:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6c4b44d089.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...aeb8918b1e.jpg

Both the bottom and top Alternator Mountings and the threaded hole at rear of Alternator that excepts the bolt from the small angled brace that attaches to the Injector Housing Bolt are ALL identical to the stock Alternator. The Hot wire can be seen just above the rear mounting bolt and is actually better positioned on this Ultima 124 amp alternator than the stock alternator.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0e2279bda7.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a6a82f6943.jpg

1. Installing All Aluminum Alternator Pulley.

The Installation of original or New Billet Aluminum Pulley is very easy with my 15/16 inch modified Combination Wrench and 5/16 inch Allen Wrench. See All Aluminum Alternator Pulley
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8d236e0441.jpg

2. Minor Modification of Air Horn.

The smaller single vacuum port (nipple) on the Air Horn pointing back under TB on 90' (90' only) is for vapor Canister Control and which vacuum line is connected to the Charcoal Vapor Canister control valve under the Drivers Side Headlight (on the 90'). This single Vapor Canister Control vacuum nipple almost touches the Ultima 124 Amp Alternator body and has to be bent just a bit as shown in the second photo. This assures the Alternator is not touching the rubber vacuum connector that fits on the vacuum nipple of the Air Horn.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...34868992b3.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b328c90ec1.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed82cbefb6.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c0d92c4989.jpg

Last UPDATE of post 285 May, 2018

Cooler Thermostats, Thermostat Modifications, Engine RPM, and Fans
 

Cooler Thermostats, Thermostat Modifications, Engine RPM, and Fans

Here is what I have found regarding LT5 Stant Thermostats.

1. You want to run the engine at coolant Temperatures of 180 deg as the design requirement...……...Running cooler Thermostats only lowers coolant temperatures when running coolant below 180 deg F (which is too cold for the LT5 engine). Once the 180 deg Thermostat and 160 deg Thermostat are fully open at 180 deg, Coolant flow is the same through each Thermostat with equal cooling as directly dependent on coolant flow.
2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal (non effective) additional Coolant Flow...….A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will only offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.
3. The Stant Thermostat Opens a bit less with age......…...Marc suggests a 15% deterioration in Full opening area of the Thermostat over time as the Thermostat ages.
4. The LT5 Water Pump Flow is proportional to Engine RPM. ......The LT5 Water Pump Flow rate is insufficient at RPMs less than 2,000 RPM for adequate Coolant flow at the higher Ambient Temperatures. Larger Aluminum Radiators DO compensate for inadequate Coolant Flow at low RPMs. Fans Turning on at 205 deg F do help considerably. And KEEP The Radiator, Oil Cooler, AC Condenser CLEAN.
5. Fan Air Flow is inadequate when the ZR-1 is not moving...…..This was noticed when the ZR-1 coolant decreased in Temperature when shifting from 6th to 5th at 65 mph (going from 1,500 to 2,200 rpm) but while not moving increasing the rpm from 750 to 2,000 had the opposite effect actually increasing coolant temperature .

And I was thinking the issue was solved wherein it is TWO issues (Fan air flow at low speeds and water pump coolant flow at low rpms).

In regard to Item #2 and #3 above...…..Compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.


See Post 120 - Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling

Last UPDATE of post 286 Dec, 2018

Replacing the Serpentine Belt
 

Replacing the Serpentine Belt

I replaced my Steel Water Pump Pulley with a Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley.
The Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley does not have the ridge (larger diameter) on the front.
Place New Serpentine Belt on all pulleys except the water pump pulley.
Compress Belt Tensioner with hand so you can insert a stick of wood (1" x 2" x 24").....
or long handle 1/2" drive breaker bar to hold Belt Tensioner compressed.
Slide smooth backside of Serpentine Belt on Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley
(easy since it has no ridge on front edge of Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley).
Remove stick of wood or 1/2" drive breaker bar.
This applies to LT5s and L98s.

Now I know why I got the Billet Aliuminum Water Pump Pulley :p

LT5 Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley.....L98 Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8706df1068.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...00a1d069be.jpg

L98 with Air Pump Eliminated
Note the Power Steering Pulley rides on smooth back side of Serpentine Belt on L98
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a530c62677.jpg

Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley

Last UPDATE of post 287 Aug, 2019