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Differences between 90', 91' and 95' ZR-1s and Engines
Differences between 90', 91' and 95' ZR-1s and Engines
1. Injector Housings (IH). 91' IH can be used on 90' Heads if you restrict two Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) ports. A. The 90' Heads have unrestricted 3/4 inch PCV ports on each head with the 91' and later Heads having PCV Restrictions. B. The 90' Injector Housings Have the PCV Restrictions and the 91' and later Injector Housings have very large unrestricted PCV ports. PCV Differences between 90 and 91 Injector Housings The opposite (using 90' IH on 91' and later Heads) appears to NOT be an issue in accordance with Paul Workman) (edited slightly for clarity).
Originally Posted by Paul Workman
(Post 231121)
Installing a 92'(?) head under my 90' IH results in a double PCV restriction; (The smaller PCV port in the 90' IH, and the smaller PCV Port in the later model (91' and later) Head). I thought about it at the time and decided there was no issue with the redundancy. For 5+ years and 20K miles, it hasn't mattered, far as I can tell.
Three Dorman 550-013 plugs (two plugs drilled 7/32) were used to restrict IH PVC ports of the 91' IH (90' Heads do not have the PCV restriction). Adapting 91' IH to 90' Heads (item #6) TIPS https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd9fbb3653.jpg 2. Plenums (90', 91', 95'). The 90' charcoal canister Purge vacuum comes from front under Plenum vacuum port pointed to drivers side connected to the charcoal canister under the Drivers Side head light. The 91' Charcoal Canister Purge vacuum comes from front under Plenum port pointed toward rear under Plenum and out rear passenger side of plenum making vacuum fittings a bit different. The Charcoal Canister for 91' is behind the passenger side rear wheel. 90' Plenum........................................ ................................91' Plenum with TB Coolant Blocked https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...50625a8cc2.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd3a6fa304.jpg With these minor differences between the 90' and 91' I have been able to mix almost anything with a little engine-uity. :D Also have 95' and a 95' crate engine so have 90', 91', 95' for any one needing Photos. 95' we have EGR connection on passenger side of Plenum which is an added feature (I think on 93'). 95 EGR........................................ ....................................91 PCV and Purge Vacuum Connections https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...12acd7e34e.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e3e7bbc1ef.jpg 95' Engine showing EGR on Plenum...........................91' Purge Solenoid for charcoal canister under Plenum https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d5ed276e35.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ebb645f89.jpg All 95' cars have the Dunn heads on the left side: #10225121 This 95' has the Dunn head on the right side also: #10225122 Other differences in the 95' compared to the 90'/91' include: 1. EGR installed from Plenum to passenger side exhaust (SW has that connection on exhaust). 2. Drivers Side Exhaust connection to the Headers. 3. Only one Throttle Cable. 4. Security....Key Fob in Pocket will automatically Lock Doors as you move away from ZR-1. 5. Security....Key Fob in Pocket will automatically Open Doors as you approach ZR-1. 6. Radiator Plastic Drain Valve (still have not figured out how it functions). 7. Seat Control Selector (Drivers or Passenger Seat) on passenger side of console and Seat Control on Drivers Side of Console. 8. Jack is Stored in bottom of Storage behind Passenger Seat. 9. No Storage Area behind Drivers Seat. 10. No Glove Box. 11. Climate Control Trim Redesigned. 12. Gauges have changes in Appearance. 13. Jack Handle stored behind Drivers Seat. 14. Blue Label Transmission (albeit I have a Blue Label Transmission installed in my 91'). 15. Seats are Re-Designed. 16. ALDL Plug is different. 17. Valley Drain under Starter is much larger on 95' and the tube between Bell Housing and oil pan is eliminated. 18. Injector Housings are different having the primary and secondary injector ports the same size (the same "O" ring). 19. The Primary and Secondary Injectors all take the same "O" ring but have a different colored band (white and blue). 20. On the 95' there exists a vacuum line connected in front of the DIS along with the three electrical connectors. 21. GAUGES will give you Digital Coolant Temperature and Digital Oil temperature in deg F shown on the Speedometer Readout. 22. The Fuse Panel for the 95' includes all fuses whereas the 91' fuse panel has less fuses on the passenger side door panel with additional fuses located under the Passenger Side Hush Panel. 23. The 95' seats are considerably different than the earlier 90'-91' seats (A bit more flimsy looking but more comfortable). And the 95' seats do not have that arm on door Side of the seat that I keep sitting on getting into and out of the Z. 24. Oil Pans have different bolt patterns on front. 25. Manifold Differential Pressure moved from under ECM (90-91) to under Plenum (93-95). 26. Marc Haibeck Description of SIR Code Variances 1990-1995 ZR-1s 1995 Plenum. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...58162c4ee2.jpg 3. A 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 Vacuum System including the differences in the Charcoal Canister Purge Vacuum. There are two vacuum connectors under the front of the 90' Plenum that support the Charcoal Canister under the 90 drivers side head light. The major Charcoal Canister Purge Vacuum port points straight out on the drivers side front of the Plenum and is connected to the Charcoal Canister under the Drivers Side Headlight. The smaller single vacuum port on the Air Horn pointing back under TB on 90' is for vapor Canister Control and which vacuum line is connected to the Charcoal Vapor Canister control valve #13 under the Drivers Side Headlight (on the 90'). The smaller single vacuum port on the Air Horn pointing back under TB on 90' https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...411408d582.jpg On the 91' The Vapor Canister control valve #13 exists on the charcoal canister located behind the Passenger Side Rear Wheel. This Vapor Canister Control Valve does not require a separate vacuum source other than the major Charcoal Canister Purge vacuum provided from the port on the drivers side front of the Plenum facing rearward just under the PCV connector. This Major Charcoal Canister Vacuum source on the 91' is connected to the Charcoal Canister Purge Vacuum Solenoid located under the Plenum on the 91' and from there connected to the Charcoal Canister behind the Passenger Side Rear Wheel. Larger Vacuum System Schematics for the 90' and 91' are shown in item #5 below. 90' purge vacuum control valve (#13) has additional .....91' purge vacuum control valve (#13) additional vacuum source from Air Horn........................................ ...vacuum line eliminated from Air Horn https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a261da0b0.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c3593b299.jpg 90' has NO Charcoal Canister Vacuum Lines or ..........91' has Charcoal Canister Purge Solenoid and Purge Solenoid Under Plenum ...................................Vacuum Lines located Under Plenum https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3d3f8b9a2b.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...159fa67f9b.jpg 4. Coolant Manifold Differences between 90' and 91' Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds have fillet weld of coolant pipe into manifold on 90'. The 91' coolant pipes lack the large fillet weld. This difference is not prohibitive in any way except for appearance and 90'/91' Coolant Manifolds can be mixed on the same engine. 90' Coolant Manifold........................................ ................................91' Coolant Manifold https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...90d1941c56.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9d06c97564.jpg 5. A 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 can have identical Modifications with the IH and Plenum minor differences. A 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 can have identical Throttle Body (TB) Coolant Blocking and other Modifications even though the IH and Plenums may have minor differences as described above. Both the 90' LT5 and 91' LT5 have identical Oil Catch Cans installed, George Braml SS Air Box, SW Offroad Headers and Exhaust, Throttle Body Coolant Blocking, and Eliminated Air Induction. Both have Carter Bling :thumbs: 1990 LT5 and 1990 Vacuum System https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c88afa85ad.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a261da0b0.jpg 1991 LT5 and 1991 Vacuum System https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3b1710637f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c3593b299.jpg 6. Electrical Fuses differences. A. 1990 Primary and Auxiliary Fuse Panel. The Primary Fuse Panel is located on the passenger side to the right of the glove box and can be accessed by opening the passenger side door. The Auxiliary Fuse Panels are located under the passenger side dash. Remove the hush panel two screws (7mm heads near front of black plastic hush panel and one 7mm head screw located inside the passenger side Primary Fuse Panel Cover). The Primary Fuse Panel Cover frame has three screws (either Torx (91') or 7mm hex head (90')). https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1f280f2236.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cf9187a270.jpg B. 1995 Fuse Panel. The Fuse Panel is located on the passenger side to the right of the glove box and can be accessed by opening the passenger side door. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5aeca82626.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1b85217481.jpg 7. Seats, Glove box, and CDM differences. The Seats on the 95' seem a bit cheaper but are very comfortable. The 95' has no Glove Box and associated with that there is no CDM under the Glove Box. The CDM on the 95' is easy to get to behind the passenger seat sitting next to the jack in the compartment. Last UPDATE of post 101 Mar, 2018 |
Solutions
-Solutions- A. Acronyms are often used we are not familiar with...... 1. See Complete Automotive Acronym List Acronyms B. Using Forum Albums for Posting Photos. Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Creating Reference Links Using Forum Photo Albums……Resizing photos C. Organization Of Solutions. Post 102 to Post 110 includes an Index (Solutions) for all issues related to the C4 ZR1 with LT5 engine as well as the C4 Corvette with L98 engine. The eight posts are orgainzed by category. The Posts References are all shown as clickable Link Names with those posts associated with the C4 Corvette (L98) starting with the word L98. All other posts refer to the ZR1 (LT5). OVERVIEW Post 102. SOLUTIONS Overview and Ebay Searches Post 103. ZR1 General Post 104. ZR1 Electrical Post 105. ZR1 Engine Post 106. ZR1 Drive Train Post 107. Awesome Post 108. ZR1 Engine Fuel, Lubrication, Cooling, and Exhaust Post 109. ZR1 Specifications, Restorations, Air, Audio, Lifts, and Road Trips Post 110. ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics Post 111. ZR-1 ALDL and associated Codes All Link references under each HEADING are presently being upgraded to include many technical posts within the archives of the Corvette Forum (Specifically the C4 ZR1 Discussion Section). 1. -Solutions- Index Posts are Organization by Function. Engine HEADINGS are arranged from front to back and top to bottom and Drive Train HEADINGS are arranged from Bell Housing to Differential to Wheels for example. 2. All Key instructions/suggestions (TIPS) are listed in Red under each Heading. 3. ALL VIDEO is listed in RED before Polls and TIPS. 4. Links to Off Forum Information Web Sites are listed in Bold Dark Orange. 5. Links to Corvette Forum Technical Posts and all Calculation Methods are listed in Bold Blue. 6. Occasionally better or more descriptive Solutions appear in new posts which will replace old Solutions in this index. Occasionally new Solutions are found in old archives which will be added to the -Solutions- index. The latest date of updates for each of the 8 -Solutions- posts can be found at the bottom of each post including this post. 7. All posts referenced in -Solutions- are open posts wherein once directed to that post you can scan the entire thread forward or backward as you like. A few Solutions references will take you to the beginning of a thread if the Solution is a process such as a restoration. 8. All professional service sources , all sources of parts, all Calculation Methods, all Ebay searches for parts, and all sources of lubricants are listed last in Dark Green under each Heading. D. HOW TO CREATE (Links, Photos, Videos, Messages, Posts) Photobucket issues Using Forum (ZR1 Net Registry) Albums for Posted Photos TIPS Registry Forum Albums TIPS How to Post Photos TIPS Old Forum Link TIPS Creating Albums and Hosting Post Photos TIPS Using Albums on various Forums to Host and Post Photos TIPS Creating Albums on various Forums TIPS Converting Pixels to Inches Creating 3D images Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Creating Reference Links Link Name Signatures Creating Reference Links Posting References and Link Photos How to get to old links Using ImageShack Using Photobucket Using PutFile How to post a video Instant message Random images Show Car Displays If you insert a picture in a Post on this forum as cited above using photobucket and then change your photobucket picture title in any way or delete that picture in photobucket, the picture will also be deleted in the forum Post you pasted it in. Most of the pictures cited in this index have been copied just in case. E. SUMMARY Ebay Searches Ebay Corvette Electrical Section 8A Ebay Corvette Ignition Key Ebay radiator Comb Ebay LT5 2902 engine mounts Ebay LT5 2713 engine mounts Ebay LT5 PVC CV913C Ebay LT5 PVC CV769C Ebay LT5 Plug wires Ebay LT5 Service Manual Ebay LT5 Thermostat Ebay LT5 Water pump Ebay Power Antenna Mast Ebay ZR1 Bosch 69225 Fuel Pumps Ebay ZR1 LT5 Ebay ZR1 LT5 Chain Ebay ZR1 LT5 Belt Ebay ZR1 LT5 Bolts Ebay ZR1 LT5 Engine Ebay ZR1 LT5 Gaskets Ebay ZR1 LT5 Plenum Ebay ZR1 LT5 Secondary Ebay ZR1 LT5 Throttle Body Ebay ZR1 Alternator Ebay ZR1 Bose Ebay ZR1 Brake Pads Ebay ZR1 Cat Back Exhaust Ebay ZR1 Clutch Cylinder Ebay ZR1 Coolant Ebay ZR1 Corvette Clutch Ebay ZR1 Radiator Ebay ZR1 Spark Plugs Ebay ZR1 Starter Ebay Autometer 2343 The Ebay search terms are defined to maximize Ebay searches for parts. The Ebay searches located within some Headings in Solutions will allow you to go directly from a specific Heading in Solutions to the related parts search on Ebay. The Ebay search is current and will show the most recent ZR1/LT5 parts available on Ebay. PARTS PHOTOS AND ESTIMATED VALUE Part Estimated Value Post 310 - Parts Estimated Value Last UPDATE of post 102 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Electronics
ZR1 Electronics TRY THESE FIRST Check NO START Fuel or Electrical Issue INFL REST Electrical Connector Tools TIPS Prom Chart TIPS HVAC Diagnostic Codes TIPS Removing the instrument Cluster TIPS Trailering a ZR1 TIPS HVAC Display Parameters TIPS 1991 ZR1 brochure 1990 ZR1 brochure Plugs, Clutches, Other Troubleshooting LT5 ZR1 as a daily driver ZR1 Brochures ZR1 reliability LT5 Block numbers SOLVING GENERAL TECHNICAL ISSUES Tech1 TIPS ALDL Error Code Flasher/Eraser TIPS TPS Voltage Tips Engine Hesitation with Haibeck Chip TIPS Marc Haibeck on LT5 Eliminated Secondaries and Associated Anomalies Check Secondary Operation with Plenum Tipped Up TIPS HVAC Codes TIPS No Start TIPS Central Control Module Diagnostics TIPS Developing miss Cutting out under load Slight miss Engine noise Full power stumble BATTERY AND CHARGING Battery poll Tipping the Plenum to Remove Alternator Alternator Replacement without Pulling Plenum TIPS Alternator TIPS The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS Quality Power Alternators TIPS Alternator Rubber Boot Replace TIPS How To Replace Battery TIP Battery Connection Wrench TIP Belt Tensioner Pulley Serpentine Belt Path Replacing Battery Cable Bolts Replacing An Alternator SYS light flashing Roll start Removing alternator Ebay ZR1 Alternator Ebay ZR1 LT5 Belt ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS Manifold Pressure Differential TIPS ECM Pin Connections Failed TIPS AC Delco Connectors TIPS Weatherpack Connectors TIPS No Start Gauge Fuse TIPS Cluster Identification TIPS Window and AC Switch Connections TIPS Cleaning Two Engine Block Ground Connections TIPS Maintaining the Engine Block Ground Connections TIPS Ground Connections TIPS Engine Relays TIPS Secondary Injector Drivers TIPS Wire size capacity chart Sensor connectors TIPS Fuses (1991) Weatherpack connectors Tachometer Wire Sources of connectors ECM (90') pin diagram Instrument panel wiring 90' KEYLESS ENTRY, TACHOMETER, CRUISE VKE-1000 system TIPS VKE-1000 system Installation TIPS Cruise Control Vacuum Release TIPS Cruise Control Vacuum TIPS Tachometer Calibration TIPS Instrument Cluster Differences Use of Trim Pot for Tachometer Calibration TIPS Keyless Entry TIPS Tachometer repair Cruise control diagram IGNITION Power Key Rebuild TIPS CMHSL LED, Full Power Key and Alternator Pulley Secondary Injector Relays TIPS DIS Diagnostics TIPS Ignition System Modifications TIPS Ignition Module Connections TIPS Defeating VATS TIPS Injector Fuse Pinched TIPS No Start DIS Plug Ins TIPS DIS Prototype TIPS VATS Ignition Key VATS Time Delay Ignition module location VATS gotcha Full power switch malfunction Full power switch repair/replace Power key rebuild Anti-theft Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) DIS module correct grease What is DIS LT5 ignition system questions Secondary Relay Discussion COILS & PLUGS Antiseize on Spark Plugs TIPS Plug condition Spark Plug Thread Chaser TIPS Coils TIPS Coil Base TIPS Using Timing Light To Check Coils TIPS Waste Spark Ignition TIPS Spark Plug Wire Separators TIPS Weak spark Testing coils Spark plug wire routing Removing #8 Ebay ZR1 Spark Plugs STARTER Diagnosing Starter No Start Electrical Circuit Deterioration Explained Starting Bench Testing TIPS Starting System Schematics TIPS Relay Locations TIPS No Start Gauge Fuse TIPS No Start Diagnostics TIPS Starter Enable Relay TIPS Starter Enable Relay Part Number TIPS Starter Clutch Safety Switch TIPS Intermittent No Start TIPS Starter Electrical Connections TIPS Starter Solenoid TIPS Starter relay modification TIPS Hold starter longer to prevent backfire TIPS Starter Solenoid Rebuild TIPS Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks Clutch Start Switch Linkage No Start Clutch Switch Linkage No start No start cure Starting issues Ebay ZR1 Starter LIGHTS Electric Window Switch Lights TIPS Headlight Motor Aluminum Gear TIPS Installing HID Driving Lights TIPS Installing HID Fog Lights TIPS Headlight door motor bushings Headlight motor gear box Backup Tail Light Switch CMHSL LED install on my ZR-1 HID Install HID Tail Lights Headlight Motor Clicking Euro Tail Lights Install HID Head Lights CHMSL LED Installing CHMSL LED CHMSL switch CHMSL Wag Back up lights conversion to 50W SENSORS ALDL Fault Codes TIPS ALDL Fault Code Erasing TIPS INFL REST Connectors Inside Car TIPS INFL REST Codes TIPS Upgraded INFL REST Code Clearing TIPS Changing the Passenger Side O2 Sensor TIPS Using Tech 1 TIPS Service Bulletin for SIR TIPS MAP Sensor Hose Fix TIPS Crankshaft Sensor Testing TIPS Oil Level Sensor TIPS INFL REST FIX TIPS INFLREST" and "SEATBELT Trouble Lights Crank shaft position (93' no start) EVAP Purge Solenoid MAP sensor/hose location 90' MAP sensor hose disconnected Knock sensor testing Knock sensor TPS voltage reading Throttle position sensor voltage Replacing O2 sensors O2 sensor with SW headers CCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes TIPS Marc Haibeck code reading Central Control Module Diagnostics TIPS What is the CCM Reading CCM codes paper clip CCM Code 54 CCM interchangeability Inflatable Restraint diagnostics SRC Marc Haibeck code reading SRC Codes and Clearing SRC TIPS Service Ride Control codes TIPS ABS codes TIPS ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes TIPS GM Trouble Code Info TIPS Marc Haibeck code reading Closed Loop and Open Loop TIPS ECM Interchangeability TIPS ALDL Pin Out TIPS Electronic Control Module Schematic TIPS Electronic Control Module P/Ns TIPS Electronic Control Module Codes TIPS ECM Repair TIPS GM codes Fuel Trim and Closed/Open Loop Operation ECM Chip and Other Electrical Connectors ZR1 ECM CODES 1990 TO 1992 ECM (90') plug pins printout Reading ECM codes paper clip ALDL plug ECM Repairs ECMs and sensors ECM MODIFICATIONS Megasquirt Manual Megasquirt Chip poll Identification of Stock Chips TIPS Interchangeability of Chips in ECMs TIPS Prom tuning guide Chip Removal Chips Tuning LS1 (411) PCM swap Marc Haibeck (Performance) DIAGNOSING ECM CODES Using Tech 1 TIPS ALDL Error Code Flasher/Eraser TIPS Marc Haibeck code reading Clearing Codes Codes Code 9 Low freon Code 12 normal Code 16 DIS system fault Code 21 Throttle position Code 23 Vehicle speed Code 24 Speed sensor Code 31 Cam sensor Code 32 EGR Code 33 MAP sensor hose Code 41 ECM/CCM error Code 41 Bad ECM Code 41 ECM Troubleshooting Code 42 Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Code 43 knock sensor Code 44 Oxygen Sensor (Left Bank Lean) Code 45 Oxygen Sensor (Left Bank Rich) See ECM Code #52 Item #3. ZR1 ECM CODES 1990- Code 55 Lean 02 Code 56 Vacuum pump Code 61 Vacuum/MAP sensors Code 61 secondary vac solenoid Code 63 Oxygen sensor Code 63 Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Open Code 64 Right Oxygen Sensor (Right Bank Lean) Code 65 Right Oxygen Sensor (Right Bank Rich) Last UPDATE of post 104 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Engine
Post 4 - ZR1 Engine FRONT COVER AND TIMING CHAINS Belt Tensioner Failures Rebuilding the Belt Tensioner TIPS Front cover shaft seal installation Installing Serpentine Belt Timing chain guide LH picture Timing chains and guides installed Chain guide replacement Timing chain, sprockets and guides Timing chain failure Timing Chain failure explained TORSIONAL DAMPENER Belt Tensioner Pulley TIPS Rebuilding Belt Tensioner Pulley TIPS Harmonic Balancer Failure TIPS Harmonic Balancer Pin Pulling Tool ATI torsional dampener Serpentine belt ENGINE LT5 engine Dipstick Restored running engine VIDEO Top End Gaskets Differences between 90', 91' and 95' Crate Engine Plenums and IHs TIPS LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations TIPS Rebuilt exchange engines TIPS Tech Info - LT5 Horsepower and Torque Calculations LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5 New Rebuild Issues LT5 Block (375 vrs 405) Engine mounts Engine mount heat shields LT5 assembly project Block tear down Crankcase ventilation cover Brake Mean Effective Pressure Engine cleaning Ebay ZR1 LT5 Engine ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Jacking engine TIPS Engine removal sequence pictures Engine Installation Engine removal Engine mounts Replacing motor mount covers First engine pull Engine Removal HEADS LT5 Heads TIPS LT5 Valve and Head Reconditioning TIPS Piston CC TIPS Pulling the Engine for Head Work TIPS Birmal or Dunn heads Birmal and Dunn Heads Compression tests Header stud oil leak VALVES AND LIFTERS LT5 Valve and Head Reconditioning TIPS Lifters Resurfacing TIPS Lifters TIPS Tech Info - LT5 New Rebuild Issues (Lifters, Camshafts, and Valves) Lifters Valve Stem Clearance Measurement Tool Valve Stem Clearance Measurements For Regrind Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifter Valve Stem Clearance Measurements For Stock Camshafts using Mellings JB 2236 Lifters L98 Valve Adjustment JB2236 THROTTLE BODY AND AIR INTAKE Air Filter Installation Idle Air Screw TIPS Air Idle Adjustment TIPS Throttle Position Sensor Diagnoses TIPS TB Photos TIPS TB Coolant Discussion TIPS TB Stuck at WOT TIPS Low Idle Speed TIPS Idle Air Control (IAC) cleaning TIPS Stainless Steel Air Box and Air Filter (L98 and LT5) Throttle Body TPS connector tool Throttle Body Blades Sticking Throttle body issues Throttle body adjustment (with ASR) TPS Adjustment Cruise Control Function Issues Ebay ZR1 LT5 Throttle Body PLENUM Push Connect Flare Fittings TIPS Eliminating EGR on 93'-95' LT5s TIPS Difference between 90' and Later Plenums TIPS The 10 Minute Plenum Removal TIPS Removing Pressed In Fittings from Plenum TIPS Removing The Plenum to Change Fuel Injectors TIPS Plenum pull TIPS Plenum Removal Simplified TIPS LT5 IH, Fuel Rails, Plenum Install Tricks Under the Plenum TIPS Removing Plenum (including the 10 minute Plenum Removal) Plenum pull questons Plenum pull tools and parts Plenum pull parts Under the plenum Plenum bolts install INJECTOR HOUSING Injector housing coolant manifold removal (heat) TIPS Adapting 91' IH to 90' Heads (item #6) TIPS Injector and Secondary failure signs TIPS Coolant Temperature Sensors TIPS 91 Injector Housing modifications for 90 Heads TIPS Secondary actuator check pdf PCV Differences between 90 and 91 Injector Housings Non operating secondaries Oil in injector housing Oil catch can source INJECTORS Changing Fuel Injectors TIPS Bad injector/burnt valves TIPS Secondary Injector Drivers TIPS Checking Injector Resistance with Plenum in Place TIPS RC Injectors Fuel injector testing electrical Fuel injector testing pressurized Bad injectors SECONDARIES Secondary Injector Relays TIPS Having an Operational Secondary Full Power Switch TIPS What Conditions Allow/Cause Secondaries to Open TIPS Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators TIPS Secondary Failure at 5K rpm Removing Secondary Shafts Engine In Car TIPS Secondary Canister Installation FACTS TIPS Removing Secondaries TIPS Removing Secondary Vacuum System Questions TIPS Secondary Canister Installation TIPS Secondary Removal TIPS Secondary actuator operation VIDEO Secondary Vacuum Reservoir Source TIPS Secondary port vacuum diagnosis TIPS Eliminated Secondary Throttles/shafts Tricks Secondary vaccum system removal Secondaries removed picture Remove secondary throttle plates and shafts Dorman plug for removed secondary throttle shafts Secondary failure Upsidedown Secondaries Secondary cannister failure Ebay ZR1 LT5 Secondary VACUUM SYSTEM New Secondary Port Throttle Vacuum System Vacuum Pump Fuse TIPS Vacuum Systems 90' and 91' (Secondary and Cruize/HVAC) TIPS Checking for Vacuum Leaks TIPS Failed Vacuum Check Valve TIPS Finding Vacuum Leak TIPS Condition of Secondary Vacuum System TIPS Vacuum Pump Taken Apart TIPS Differential Pressure Switch Function TIPS Secondary Vacuum Removal TIPS HVAC, Brake Booster, and Purge Vacuum Leaks TIPS Secondary Vacuum Reservoir Source TIPS Vacuum testing Secondary port vacuum diagnosis Secondary diagnosis Vacuum solenoid Cruise Control Vacuum Cruise Control Inoperable Diagnostics Secondary vacuum diagram Vacuum pump malfunction Non operating secondaries Vacuum pump vendor Vacuum solenoid conversion Check valve under plenum CAM COVERS Removing and Painting Cam Covers TIPS Removing Cam Cover Bolts the Hard Way TIPS Chain guide maintenance TIPS Ticking Sound Under The Cam Covers TIPS Cam Cover Filters Cam Cover Installation Tricks Removing cam cover bolts Cam cover bolt removal tools Cam cover dowty washers Cam cover sealant A136 CAMSHAFT Leaky Camshaft Sensor Twisted Camshaft Valve Stem Clearance Measurements Camshaft Timing Rookie Camshaft Installation Camshaft Regrinds, Lifters, Valves, and Camshaft Timing Camshaft Sensor TIPS Cam position sensor oil leak Camshaft follower design Camshaft timing tools Custom cams Camshaft plugs Reground camshafts (2500 miles) Regrind camshafts Camshaft specs CAMSHAFT BOLTS, CLAMPS, RETAINERS Installing camshaft bolts TIPS Camshaft Sprocket Bolts TIPS Camshaft Billet Retainers TIPS Camshaft replacement retainers Locking down the camshaft bolts CHAIN TENSIONERS AND GUIDES Chain Guide Replacement TIPS Upper Chain Guide Failures TIPS Secondary Chain Guide Rattle TIPS Timing Chain Guide Wear TIPS Resetting timing chain tensioner TIPS Secondary Chain Guide Rattle TIPS PCV system and Timing Chain Wear Strips Installing chain guides Always reset chain tensioners Chain tensioner unloader Updated chain tensioner RH Camshaft chain guide wear Timing chain guide bolts New style chain tensioner RH Chain Tensioner housing Upgraded chain tensioner housing impressions Chain guide wear strips Upgraded RH chain tensioner housing CAMSHAFT TIMING USING PINS Camshaft timing event picture CAMSHAFT TIMING USING DEGREE WHEEL Camshaft timing TIPS Dial gage holder TIPS LT5 Camshaft Specifications and Camshaft Timing Tricks Camshaft Timing Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing from Start to Finish Tech Info - LT5 Timing Diagrams Tech Info - LT5 Camshaft Timing and Timing Chain Calculations Setting/Installing the Chain Tensioners and Timing Chain Tricks Camshaft timing optimum deg Cam timing First attempt at camshaft timing ENGINE LOWER END Lower End Rebuild TIPS Lower End Bolt Torque TIPS Lower End Basics TIPS Reuse of Main Bearing Cap Bolts TIPS Engine Liners Priming Lubrication System Rebuilding Lower End Connecting Rods Main Bearing Cap Bolts Last UPDATE of post 4 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Drive Train
ZR1 Drive Train FLYWHEEL Flywheel poll Duel Mass Flywheel Installation Aluminum Flywheel HP Gains are Dynamic Only TIPS Dynamic HP TIPS Flywheel Trim Weights TIPS Replacing Trim Weights in DMFW Fidanza and Components Flywheel check Fidanza (flywheel/clutch plate) Unsprung clutch with Fidanza Sprung clutch with Fidanza Pressure plate bolts Pressure plate bolt guide Dual mass flywheel purpose Balancing New Flywheel balancing CLUTCH Clutch Hydraulic Line Clutch Plate TIPS Clutch Switch TIPS RAM Clutch Review TIPS Clutch Fork Pivot Stud Allen Head Size TIPS Clutch Kit TIPS Clutch Fork Failure Issues TIPS Clutch Fork Clutch FAQ Clutch Start Switch Clutch Start Switch Modifications Using a L98 Pressure Plate on an LT5 Clutch pressure plate wear pattern Clutch replacement issues Carolina Stage 2 Spec stage 3 & sprung hub Spec stage 3 picture Clutch safety switch Clutch switch bypass Correct Center Force clutch disc Unsprung clutch with roller bearing Pilot Clutch hydraulic hose restriction Power Torque Systems Ebay ZR1 Corvette Clutch CLUTCH MASTER/SLAVE Clutch slave issues Clutch Master Cylinder Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Rebuild TIPS Clutch Fluid Contaminated TIPS Getting the Air Out of the Clutch Hydraulics TIPS Master/slave replacement Bleeding the clutch slave Power Torque Systems Ebay ZR1 Clutch Cylinder TRANSMISSION Rockland Standard Gear Throwout Bearing and Pilot Bearing TIPS Pilot Bearing Failure TIPS Removing Transmission Plugs TIPS Zf S6-40 Parts TIPS Pilot Bearing Depth TIPS Rebuild or Replace TIPS Speeds At Shift Points TIPS Speeds At RPMs TIPS Throwout Bearing Source TIPS Transmission Fill/Drain Plug Source TIPS Transmission Removal/Install TIPS ZF S6-40 Transmission specifications Pilot Bearing ZR-1 Transmission Install and Lift Tricks Vibration Issues Diagnosis Throwout Bearings C4 beam plates Reverse Lamp Switch ZFdoc and Reverse Gear Siezures ZF S6-40 Transimission pictures Transmission install locater pins Allen wrench for fill plugs ZF Shifter modifications Shift light Shift light install Gear rattle Pilot bearing replace Pilot bearing removal tool Shift light ZF Doc (Transmission) TRANSMISSION OIL Zf S6-40 Oil TIPS Castrol Edge Comparisons TIPS Castrol TWS 10W-60 (Transmission) DRIVE SHAFT (INCLUDING HALF SHAFT) Sharp Clicking Rear Axle Half Shaft U-Joints TIPS Universal Joints TIPS Rear Spline Rust TIPS C4 Beam Plates TIPS Align drive train TIPS Align drive train sketch TIPS Align "C" Beam TIPS Half Shaft TIPS Universal Joints Source Loose Axle Nuts Driveshaft vibration "C" Beam removal and install "C" Beam removal pictures C4 Beam Plates explained Half shaft noise U-Joints C4 Beam Plates DIFFERENTIAL Clutch and Differential Upgrade TIPS Differential Gear Ratio TIPS Jeep D44 4.10 Gears LT5 Added Systems (Differential Case Drain) Clicking and rust on Spindle Shaft TIPS LT5 Engine and Differential Lubrication Discussion TIPS Dana 44HD TIPS Going from 3:45 to 4:10 Differential Differential case drain Less intrusive differential case drain Differential removal Differential fluid change 4.10 gears pictures Viper gears Viper Parts Dana 44 WHEELS Wheels C4 Corvette Wheel Information TIPS Advanced Street Alignment TIPS Front End Alignment TIPS A-Mold Identification TIPS Rear Axle Nut Torque TIPS Reproduction wheel issues TIPS Toe, caster, camber TIPS Wheel Repair TIPS Wheel Bearings TIPS Wheel Technical Information Wheel Rim modifications Wheel spacers Corvette alignment specifications Dymag wheels Rear wheel bearing removal Rear wheel bearing Wheel alignment street 89-93 Wheel Toe in Adjusting rear wheel Camber & Toe In Aftermarket Wheel considerations Wheel Offset Calculator Ebay ZR1 SKF BR930024 Rear Wheel Hub & Bearing TIRES Tire Dimensions ASR 92'-95' TIPS Original Tire Pressure Gauge TIPS Tire Pressure Gauge TIPS Nitto Drag Radials Usage TIPS Tires and Selective Ride Control 315 vrs 335 What is ASR Tire sensor Tires Drag Radial test AFS Wheels Discount Tire BRAKES C4 ABS TIPS Brake Pad TIPS Rebuilt Master Brake Cylinders TIPS Brake System Myths TIPS LT5 Final Inspection including Brake Tricks ABS Code - Definition ABS relay (89'-91' Zs) modification Rear caliper rebuild Caliper rebuild part numbers ABS light on ABS system Brake fluid facts ABS wiring issue Ebay ZR1 Brake Pads BRAKE UPGRADES Basic Brake Upgrade TIPS C6 Z06 Upgrade TIPS Brake brackets C4 to C5/C6 conversion Brake adapters installation Brakes That Will Stop a Freight Train ZR-1 (90' and 91') Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion Brake upgrade MovIt MoveIt Pictures C5/C6 Brake installation on 90' ZR1 C6 Calipers on 94' ZR1 Installed Baer 6P brakes SUSPENSION Bilstein Shock Designations TIPS No Flex Frame Stiffener TIPS Bilstein Shock Applications TIPS Selective Ride Control Solution TIPS Bilstein Shock Applications and Self Alignment TIPS Bilstein Shock Actuator Part Numbers TIPS Service Ride Control Codes TIPS FX-3 shock Rebuild TIPS Revalving and Painting Bilsteins TIPS Clearing Service Ride Control Codes TIPS Disconnect Ride Control TIPS FX-3 Performance TIPS FX-3 rebuild TIPS Rear Shocks Replace TIPS Front Shock Change TIPS Rear Shock Change TIPS FX3 Selective Rid Control TIPS FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS eshocks Bilstein Shocks Bilstein Shock Gear Differences DRM Coil Overs Rear suspension pictures Coil over technology Coil over installation Coil over springs Coil over rear top brackets Rear suspension Rear coil over DRM coil over pictures Banski kit Vansteel coil overs BUSHINGS, BRACES, SRC Rubber Bushing Kit New bushings on rear cam rods VIDEO Ball Joint Replace Set Up TIPS Camber brace Lower A Arm bushings Upper and Lower A-Arm Bushings Replacing all bushings Rubber bushing kit C4 Frame brace Service ride control time out Service ride control codes STEERING Power Steering Pump Repair Kit Replacing Power Steering Pump TIPS Make Your Own Power Steering Lines TIPS Sources of Fittings for Power Steering Lines TIPS Loose steering column TIPS Dimmer Switch TIPS Replacing tie rods Tie rod dust boots Rubber bushing kit Tilt Steering column wobbling Removing air bag TurnOne Last UPDATE of post 106 Apr, 2024 |
Awesome :thumbs:
Thanks for all you do to keep everything organized and up to date for all of us :cheers: :cool: |
ZR1 Engine Fuel, Lubrication, Cooling, and Exhaust
ZR1 Engine Fuel, Lubrication, Cooling, and Exhaust FUEL DELIVERY Replacing Fuel Pumps Fuel Pump Removal Ohm Injectors HOT TIPS Fuel Pump Testing TIPS Fuel Pump Install TIPS Fuel Tank Gasket and Boot TIPS Fuel Pump Jumper TIPS Least Expensive Fuel Pumps TIPS Fuel Pump Option TIPS Difference between 90' and 91' Evap Purge TIPS Fuel Injector Resistance Plenum In Place TIPS Primary Fuel Pump Failure TIPS Changing Fuel Injectors TIPS Fuel pump test connector TIPS Fuel Pump Testing TIPS Fuel Pump replacement using Bosch 69225 TIPS Fuel Pump Bypass Switch TIPS Fuel Injector Offset TIPS L98 Disabling DFCO One more fuel pump source Fuel pump sender Fuel pump replace Fuel filter Cranks but no start Changing fuel filter New fuel pump pictures Old fuel pump pictures Fuel pump fuses Viton seals for ethanol blends Charcoal canister replace Charcoal canister differences (90' and 91') Fuel Delivery (Ethanol) FUEL PRESSURE The Improved LT5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Pressure Driving TIPS Fuel pump test connector TIPS Fuel Pressure Drop TIPS Delphi Fuel Pressure Regulator TIPS Checking Fuel Pumps #1 and #2 TIPS Checking fuel pressure key and engine off TIPS Checking fuel pressure TIPS Prevention of Fuel Dripping From Disconnected Fuel Lines TIPS Fuel pressure regulator source Hot wire fuel pump Cleaning fuel rails Fuel rail pressure ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM Pre Lube ??? The Importance of ZDDP Debate Billet Aluminum Oil Cooler Adapter TIPS SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings Oil leaks TIPS The most common but most unrecognized oil leak TIPS LT5 Engine and Differential Lubrication Discussion TIPS Engine Lubrication System Functional Discussion TIPS Remove Oil Pan Engine In Car TIPS Oil Cooler Drain Plug TIPS Oil Pans and Gaskets Differences TIPS Engine Oil Prime TIPS Dual Oil Filters TIPS Oil Consumption TIPS Engine Pre Installation Lubrication System Tricks LT5 Lubrication Tricks OPRV Cover Plate Oil Cooler Connections Leaks Oil pick up "O" ring thickness 1 Oil pick up "O" ring thickness 2 Installing New Oil Pan Gasket New Oil Pan Gasket and Bolts Oil pan gasket Magnetic oil pan drain plug Pre Lube Change oil light reset proceedure OIL PRESSURE Oil Temperature Sensor Wiring (Dash/ECM) TIPS Gauge Oil Pressure Sensor Calibration TIPS Removing Oil Pressure Switch TIPS Oil Pressure Sensors TIPS Engine Oil Pressure/Temperature Sensors TIPS Oil pressure sensor location Low oil pressure Oil pressure switch removal Sensor Oil leak Mechanical oil pressure gauge ENGINE OIL, OIL FILTER, DIP STICK Oil poll Oil filter poll Changing Oil TIPS Oil Level Sensors TIPS Engine Oil Methology TIPS ZDDP TIPS Oil Dipstick Handle Replacement TIPS L98 Oil Cooler Housing Modifications for Headers L98 Reset Change Oil Light Oil Catch Can Install Engine Oils Oil Catch Can Photo Changing Engine Oil Oil Level On Dipstick SS Dip stick Valvoline racing oil ZDP and cam wear ZDDP and lifter wear FRAM TG3985 oil filter Oil drain using MityVac Dip stick tube seal Dip stick bracket Amsoil 10W-30 ZDDP Amsoil 10W-40 (Engine) All about motor oil WATER PUMP The Coolant Bypass Plug and Air Locked Water Pump TIPS Water Pump Replace TIPS Electric water pump TIPS Air Locked Water Pump TIPS Air Locked Water Pump With TB Coolant Blocked TIPS Preventing Air Locked Water Pump L98 Water Pump Fit L98 Removed the Frisbee Randy Woods thermostat Leaking water pump fix Water pump gasket sealant Rebuilt water pump Water pump bolt lengths Ebay LT5 Water pump ENGINE COOLANT Antifreeze poll Coolant TIPS Coolant Characteristics (Mix, Pressure, Elevation) TIPS GM 1825M Coolants TIPS Refilling with coolant Eliminated IH Housing and Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system Coolant Selection Summary NOT Dexcool Coolant system service Coolant refill techniques Coolant temperature display COOLANT SYSTEM, HOSES, LEAKS Thermostat and Engine Cooling LT5 Cooling and Radiators TIPS Tool Comparison for Removing Original Coolant Hose Clamps TIPS Removing Original Coolant Hose Clamps TIPS Thermostat and Thermostat Housing TIPS 180 deg Thermostat vrs 160 deg Thermostat TIPS Gates Power Grip Clamps TIPS Replacing Coolant Hoses TIPS Getting the Air Out Simplified TIPS Thermostat Housing TIPS Stant thermostats TIPS Leaking Heater Hose TIPS Heater Hose TIPS Water Pump Replace TIPS Digital Coolant Temperatures TIPS Engine Temperatures TIPS Coolant Temperature Sensors TIPS Thermostat rubber seal install TIPS Hoses TIPS 1/8 inch allen head aluminum pipe plugs Coolant Hoses and Preventing The Air Locked Water Pump Filling With Coolant (TB Coolant Eliminated) LT5 Thermostat operation LT5 Radiator and Exhaust Install Tricks Using HVAC Display for Engine Coolant Temperature Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant Radiator Debree Screens Getting The Air Out of the Coolant System TB Coolant Discussion Thermostat housings Replacing Thermostat or Lower Radiator Hose Thermostat modifications Hot only at idle TB Coolant elimination discussion SAMCO hoses picture Injector housing coolant leak Ebay LT5 Thermostat Ebay ZR1 Coolant RADIATOR AND FANS Radiator Rubber Mounts TIPS Installing a Ron Davis Radiator and Testing Keeping the LT5 Cool and Radiator Debris Screens Fans On All The Time TIPS Radiator Cooling Fans Operation TIPS Primary Cooling Fan Operation Criteria TIPS Radiator Drain TIPS NOS Fan with Shroud TIPS Fans controlled by AC TIPS Make Your Own Debree Screen TIPS Fans Operational Check Fan Relays Replacing radiator Replacing radiator shroud Removing radiator shroud Cooling fan inputs Debris screens Ebay ZR1 Radiator CA SMOG CA SMOG TIPS Passed CA SMOG Finally passed CA SMOG Failed CA SMOG Passed CA Emissions Approved by CA SMOG ****'s Finally passed emissions CA Smog ****'s can kiss.... More SMOG problems Another 91' fails CA Emissions Gross polluter ZR-1 Can't pass CA SMOG POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION PCV System TIPS PCV valves sources TIPS MAP Hose TIPS PCV connector & MAP sensor PCV system PCV source Crankcase Ventilation PCV and Cam Cover Vents Difference between 90' and 91' heads Cam cover vent material Cam cover SS vent material EXHAUST SYSTEMS Exhaust Manifold Bolts Catalyst failure Eliminating the Air Pump TIPS Passing CA emissions TIPS OBX Cat Back Exhaust TIPS Corsa exhaust Functional/Non-functional Exhaust SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW Tricks L98 Air Pump Elimination L98 Air Pump Elimination Details Exhaust System Replace with Headers Exhaust Headers Locking Bolt Tricks Removing Exhaust System L98 Installing SW Headers Performance Exhaust systems Ebay ZR1 Cat Back Exhaust HEADERS Header Install Video Header Gaskets and Bolts TIPS Installed SW Headers/Exhaust Photos TIPS Installing SW Headers TIPS L98 and LT5 Exhaust System Header Bolts Headers install tricks Header stud oil leak Dip stick bracket Stainless Works Headers flex transition Stainless 304 vrs 409 Last UPDATE of post 108 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Specifications, Restorations, Air, Audio, Lifts
ZR1 Specifications, Restorations, Air, Audio, Lifts NUTS, BOLTS, HOSE & FITTINGS Removing Broken Off Bolts Interior Screws/nuts, and Magnetic Sockets TIPS Stainless Braided Hose and Fittings Loctite 262 Camshaft sprocket bolts Stainless steel bolts Stainless fittings Ebay ZR1 LT5 Bolts GASKETS & SEALANTS Permatex Super 300 Usage TIPS Anti Seize usage TIPS Antiseize on Spark Plugs TIPS Finding and Fixing oil leaks TIPS Reusable Gaskets TIPS O Rings sizes Gaskets Gaskets and sealants Head gasket source Perma bond A136 Ebay ZR1 LT5 Gaskets ZR-1 The FBI Gang TIPS ZR1 quarter mile King of the hill ZR1 memoir #1 ZR1 memoir #2 ZR1 Saga #1 ZR1 Saga Vets Day ZR1 CDs RPO LT5/CCM/Intro to LT5/ABS ZR1 magazines LT5 Training Videos/Tech Guides LT5 Training Videos/Tech Guides Covers LT5 ENGINE PHOTOS AND SPECIFICATONS LT5 specifications LT5 92' and 95' crate engines Overhead picture LT5 LT5 photos LT5 picture RESTORATIONS & TRANSFORMATIONS Craigs 95' Transformation TIPS Restoration-of-steel-blue-91 TIPS Typical Top End Restoration TIPS Locobob Interior Restoration TIPS 1990 LT5 Top End Restoration TIPS ZR-1/LT5 and L98 Restoration Options Cleaning the Valley TIPS Restoration 90' ZR1 continued TIPS High miler TIPS High miler update Restoration 90' ZR1 Restoration 92' ZR1 Restoring the girl Rebuild 1991 Engine cleaning Show Car Displays BLING Billet Aluminum Oil Cooler Adapter TIPS Billet Aluminum Dipstick Handle TIPS Carbon Fiber Interior Trim TIPS Carter Bling TIPS Metal Polish Bling TIPS Carter200 Bling Chrome billet tail light louvers Carter throttle body cover bling Carter LT5 various caps bling Carter center caps bling Carter Brembo bling Carter air bling Shift knob bling POWDER COATING Throttle body Top end refinishing Emblems How to powder coat Sunset Powder Coating Precision Powder Coating PORTING (PLENUM, INJECTOR HOUSING, HEADS, HEADERS) Locobob the Porting Guy TIPS Porting effects Porting examples Head porting details Head porting pictures Matched porting LT5 porting Head porting (Dynomite) Head porting Dyno numbers INTERIOR Suede Headliner TIPS Floor Mats TIPS 95' seats in 91' TIPS Window and AC Switch Connections TIPS Courtesy Light restore TIPS Interior Restoration TIPS Interior Trim Color Touch Up TIPS Swappable Interior Panels Interior Carpet Glued Headliner Repair Seat Repair Headliner Repair Seatbelt Solutions Interior Door panel removal Door panel repair Brey-Krause harness bar How to clean ZR-1 carpet Removing center console Lumbar pump repair Removing carpet stains Interior Carpet replace Steering wheel recondition Dynamat Ebay Hood Insulation Retainer AIR CONDITIONER & HEATER Heater Core Replacement AC Control Module Removal Fans Do Not Shut Off TIPS Climate Control Button Repair HVAC Codes Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection Removal of Heater Core Without Removing Dash TIPS Removal of Heater Core TIPS Blower Control Module TIPS HVAC/Climate Control Button Contact TIPS AC Normal Low and High Side Pressures TIPS AC Compressor Not Turning On TIPS Solution to Evaporator Core Leaks TIPS Heater Coolant Flow and Fittings TIPS Air Compressor Part Numbers and Sources TIPS AC Under Hood Fuse TIPS R12 vrs R134a and recharging R12 HVAC Codes HVAC Code Discussion AC and Fan Operation Blower Control Module Air Compressor Not Working Radio and Air issues Replacing heater core Coolant heater core replace AC Evaporator core plugged AC compressor clutch repair R12 vrs R134a Blower motors Cleaning evaporator core BOSE AUDIO SYSTEM Bose Replacement Speakers Radio Antenna Electrical Schematic C4 Audio Antennae Mast Repair Factory Car Stereo Repair Bose Speaker Amp Alternatives TIPS Antenna Mast Repair TIPS Antenna Delete TIPS Antenna Grommet TIPS CDM Removal TIPS Satellite Radio TIPS Bose System including speakers removal videos Antenna Mast Antenna mast instructions Bose Power Antenna Bezel Antenna Mast Part Number Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS Amp Capacators Repair/upgrade Speaker amps on Ebay Radio antenna Antenna manual control Bose speaker amplifiers AVIC Z3 Installed Avic D3 install Double DIN Antenna Parts Doc Don's (Radio) Ebay ZR1 Bose EXTERIOR Roof Panels Windshield poll Windshield delamination poll Safelite Windshield Install TIPS Windshields Windshield Removal TIPS Windshield wipers TIPS Windshield Replacement TIPS Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall TIPS Windshield Wiper Blades TIPS Jack in Zipper Tire Bag inside Black Plastic Bag TIPS Car Cover TIPS Weather stripping Source TIPS Hood Support Source TIPS Engine cleaning TIPS Targa Tops TIPS Melrose Targa Tops TIPS Window Tinting TIPS Hood Latch Receptacle Drain TIPS How to Replace the Wiper Motor Paint Spider Cracks Paint Chip Repair Hood Release Windshield delamination Top glass recondition Repainting the Z Windshield molding 90' Window seals Weather stripping Detailing spray Heat and sound barrier insulation Fiberglass repair Cleaning and polishing Corvette Paint Codes Hood detailing Door ajar switch TRIM Shift and radio surround trim color LIFTS Lifting the ZR1 TIPS Wooden Lift TIPS Lifting and Towing the ZR-1 Using KwikLift KwikLift Adapter Bendpak 4 post HD-9ST Twin post lift ROAD TRIPS Purple zr-1 Road Trip To Utah Road Trip Back To Alaska Tools and Spare Parts for Long Road Trip Road Trip to Glacier NP Road Trip Southwest and San Diego Road Trip Vets on Lexington Road Trip to Canada ZR-1 Pick Up Story Yellowstone and Pacific Norwest Purple ZR1 Road Trip Coast To Coast Purple ZR1 Road Trip West Virginia Trip Florida Trip Alaska Trip Canada trip CA Redwood Trip CA or Bust Trip Gatlinburg Tenn Trip LAST BUT NOT LEAST Winter Storage Made Simple LT5 Registry Archive TIPS BG 2012 Photos Supercar Cruize to Payson Cell phones and driving in CA Something easy becomes a mpia Always be nice to others Trying to please everyone Kludged and Ripped Instant History Polar Bears The GARAGE The SHED What is Acceleration CCM and CHP Guns and Jerks SCAMS...Beware!! Last UPDATE of post 109 Apr, 2024 |
ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics
ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...72f51747ee.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e50286bb95.jpg LT5 Bolt Charts with suggested bolt torque, loctite and antiseize application information are included above. The free chart from Jerry's Gaskets which provided the basic LT5 component bolt sizes has been considerably modified into two charts above. The charts have been organized by function. If you could only use one Tool....use the Metric Flex Head Ratchet on LT5 Nuts and Bolts. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...761d2df977.jpg Hydraulic Fitting Size comparison AN (Army and Navy).....-2.........-3...........-4.........-5.........-6..........-8........-10.......-12 Tube OD (Hose ID).......1/8".......3/16"...... 1/4".......5/16".....3/8".......1/2"......5/8"......3/4" SAE thread size...........5/16-24..3/8-24.....7/16-20..1/2-20...9/16-18..3/4-16...7/8-14..1-1/16-12 Pipe thread size (NPT)..............1/8-27.....1/4-18................3/8-18....1/2-14..............3/4-14 Metric Pipe Thread Fine........10-1.5........12-1.5....14-1.5.....16-1.5....18-1.5.....20-1.5 1/8 inch NPT Drill is 21/64 or 11/32 inch. Aluminum Allen Head 1/8 inch pipe plugs found here. Speedway Motors Aluminum Stat-O-Seal washers with molded Buna-N inner seals are much more reliable than the more common steel stat-o-seals. If the rubber portion fails to make contact all around the port, the aluminum will act as a crush washer, providing a reliable metal to metal seal. Use them to seal screws, bolts or plumbing fittings. The Buna-N seal is resistant to petroleum fuels and oils. Pegasus Auto Racing https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...24a8255f3f.jpg Stat-O-Seal Inside Diameters vs. Outside Diameters ID Size...#6 (0.138")..#10 (3/16")...1/4"..5/16"...3/8"..7/16"..1/2"..9/16"..5/8"...3/4"...7/8"..1.00" OD Size............ .38".......... .44".. .50".. .60"... .66".. .76"... .88"...1.06"..1.19".1.32"..1.51".1.76" SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings 1. Tools. One 10 inch cresent wrench (Box Wrench is best), One vice, Air compressor, Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel). The best tool for cutting the SS Braided Hose is a Small Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel) which does not fray the SS braids on the hose ends. It is also best to use an appropriate size Box Wrench on the Hose Fittings (box end) to minimize leaving marks on the fittings. I use Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and SS Braided hose from Summit Racing. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e9246160ff.jpg To remove existing 12AN x 3/4 NPT fittings from the Oil Filter Housing use a 1 inch box wrench (combination box/open end) with the box end on the fitting interlocked with a 3/4 inch box wrench on the other end. This will provide the leverage/torque without excessive horizontal pressure to remove the fittings. I use permatex when installing the New 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings into the Oil Filter Adapter (lower fitting first). Let the ZR-1 sit over night before removing the existing Oil Cooler Hoses to minimize oil spilling. Use of 10AN Hose/Fittings I use all 10AN Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and 10AN Hose....The 10AN SS Braided hose I use has ID of 9/16 inch and the 12 AN SS Braided Hose has ID 5/8 inch. As it turns out.....the 12AN hose with 5/8 inch ID is identical to stock Oil Cooler Hose having ID of 5/8 inch. Also I noted the ID Fittings on the stock Oil Cooler Hoses on the Oil Cooler end where the tubing is located is less ID than the SS Braided 10AN Oil Lines. The Stock Oil Cooler hoses have 6 inches of steel tubing on Oil Cooler end that are identical in ID (9/16 inch) to SS Braided 10AN. Further, the Stock Oil Cooler hoses are 17 inches long as compared to 13 inches long for SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses. The Oil Filter Adapter end of the Stock Oil Cooler hoses is only about 1/2 inch ID at the fittings. Which if you add all that up I would say the total head loss in the stock Oil Cooler hoses is about identical to the SS Braided 10AN with Aeroquip 10AN Fittings. 2. Measuring SS Braided Hose Length. A. Follow Step #3 below and make up one end of each SS Braided Hose (cut longer than required to reach the Oil Cooler Adapter) with the 45 degree Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends. B. Install and snug up but not tight the 45 degree Aeroquip 10AN Hose ends onto the 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings installed into the Oil Filter Adapter. C. Take the free SS Braided Hose ends curved freely around the radiator housing as they would look in the final installation. Mark the SS Braided Free Hose Ends along Red Line A and Red Line B as shown. D. Cut these Hose Ends about 1/4 inch longer than that mark. E. Install the 90 degree Aeroquip 10AN hose ends as in step #3 below. F. After installation of all four 10AN Aeroquip hose ends is complete, install the 90 degree hose ends on the Oil Cooler Adapter. G. Tighten the 10AN Fittings into the Oil Cooler Adapter (18mm x 1.5 or 6AN Straight Fittings). H. Tighten the 10AN 90 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the 10AN male fittings of the Oil Cooler Adapter at the angles shown by CD and EF. Make sure there is a small gap between the bottom 10AN 90 Degree Fitting and the AC Line and the two 10AN 90 degree fittings (top and bottom) I. Install the other end of the SS Braided Hoses 45 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the respective Oil Filter Adapter male fittings and tighten. J. Now making sure the "O" rings are in place on the Oil Cooler Adapter (I use Permatex on the adapter "O" ring face), position and the adapter on the face of the Oil Cooler and insert the 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt with SS washer into the Oil Cooler Adapter and tighten the bolt. No modification of the Fiberglass Radiator Housing is required since the Oil Cooler Adapter is installed on the Oil Cooler AFTER the fittings are connected and tightened on the Oil Cooler Adapter. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...116746b126.jpg 3. General SS Hose Assembly with Re-Usable Fittings. A. Place SS Braided hose in vice and cut SS Braided hose to length using Angle Grinder with Cut Off wheel. Angle grinder is preferred since minimal SS wires are left free of the cut. B. Make sure NO SS Braided wires enter the hose end and make sure ALL loose SS Braided wires are ground flush with end of hose. Keep the hose in the vice with about 2 inches on the free end out of the vice. (Clean the inside of the hose end Cut Off before going further with Cotton Cue Tip . C. Take the AN reusable hose fitting and unscrew the male part from the female part. The other end of the male part will have an NPT pipe thread or "O" ring seal thread size (AN) as desired. D. Take the AN reusable hose fitting female part and screw/push onto the SS Braided hose (counterclockwise) by hand pushing onto the hose as you rotate the female hose fitting counterclockwise. Aeroquip Nickel Plated Aluminum Reusable Fittings are not threaded but ARE serrated requiring a push onto the hose only. Make sure ALL SS Braids are inside the hose fitting just pushed onto the hose. E. Screw/push the AN female reusable hose fitting onto the hose fitting such that the hose is at a depth into the female fitting as defined by the lines on the female fitting surface. F. Lubricate the inside diameter of the SS Braided hose with oil through the end of the female fitting. G. Insert the male reusable hose fitting into the lubricated hose through the end of the female fitting. H. Push the male fitting into the hose as you rotate the male fitting clockwise using a cresent wrench (Box Wrench preferred). Once the threads are caught, continue rotating the male fitting into the hose untill approximately 1/16 inch space is left between the hexigon of the male fitting and female fitting. I. Install the second hydraulic reusable hose fitting on the other end of the hose as per steps 2 through 8 above. J. Last...but not least....take an air hose (Air Compressor) and blow the hose clear to make sure you have a clean assembly (if the SS Braided hose is not too long look through the hose end to end for any debree). You now have a SS Braided hydraulic hose with fittings good for maybe 2,000 psi hydraulic pressure more or less. 4. Parts Required for SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines with Re-Usable Fittings. The SS Oil Cooler Lines are very easy to make up in SS Braided hose using Aeroquip reusable fittings and SS Braided hose available from Summit Racing. The Aeroquip Fittings are Swivel so self aligning when installing. A. Use two 10 AN Stainless Steel Braided hose B. use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated C. Use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 45 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated D. On the Oil Filter Adapter remove the 12 AN Flare fittings Trick to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings and use two 10AN Flare to 3/4 inch NPT E. Oil Cooler Adapter With the secondchance design use one "O" ring on each 10 AN Flare fitting with 18x1.5 metric thread. With the Jeffvette design use one Stat-O-Seal, 5/8 in Inside Diameter, Aluminum with O-Ring on each 10 AN to 3/8" BSPP Straight Adapter. F. One 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt G. One 6 mm SS washer H. Two "O" rings for the Aluminum adapter manifold to oil cooler interface. The first seven items can be found at Summit Racing. Secondchance Design of Oil Cooler Adapter..................Jeffvette Design of Oil Cooler Adapter https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f9f7575df1.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a49b3b5f9d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...96b42bc558.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e2fdfbaf37.jpg I have never had one of these hydraulic lines with Aeroquip Reusable Fittings leak and they are much much tougher than original crimped fittings and easily replaced or adjusted if you want to at some point make them longer or shorter (the fittings are reusable and swivel). And......you will find a much better routing of the lines if you make them yourself by looking at the routing of the existing Hydraulic Lines. The Aeroquip Reusable Fittings come in all sizes and angles to fit any situation. You can make your own oil cooler lines as shown here and Power Steering Lines or any other hydraulic line you might need on the ZR-1. As an aside, I use the similar Aeroquip reusable fittings and Aeroquip 1509 hydraulic hose on all my farm implements and tractors. I make up all my implement hydraulic lines often replacing relatively new lines that come with the implements with my own lines that are much more dependable under extreme usage. We are talking hydraulic pressures over 2,000 psi on the hydraulics of some of these implements when the cylinders reach the stops. Once you experiment with making your own hydraulic lines with some using SS Braided hose you will never look back at buying ready made hydraulic lines again. All you need is a vice, hand grinder (or even a hack saw will work), and a couple box wrenches of appropriate size. Oh...and an air compressor to blow clean the lines after assembly. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0586d8386a.jpg See SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings Last UPDATE of post 110 May, 2023 |
ZR1 Engine (LT5) ZR-1 ALDL and associated Codes
ZR1 Engine (LT5) ZR-1 ALDL and associated Codes The ZR-1 Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) pins are configured like so: ____________________ | F | _ | _ | C | B | A | | G | H | J | K | L | M | ----------------------- A = GROUND B = ECM DIAGNOSTIC C = RIDE CONTROL DIAGNOSTIC F = T.C.C (vin 8) G = CCM DIAGNOSTIC H = ANTILOCK BRAKES J = E & C BUS DATA K = SIR DIAGNOSTIC L = SIR SERIAL DATA M = SERIAL DATA (data line used by Tech1 Diagnostic Computer to read system data information for the ECM, Anti-Lock Brake and CCM. 1. ZR-1 ECM Codes Code #12: Normal No Codes. Code #13: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit. Code #14: Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High. Code #15: Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low. Code #16: Direct Ignition System (DIS) Fault Line Circuit Code #21: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High. Code #22: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low. Code #23: Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low. Code #24: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit. Code #25: Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High. Code #31: Camshaft Sensor Circuit. Code #33: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High - Low Vacuum. Code #34: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low - High Vacuum. Code #36: Direct Ignition System (DIS) Circuit (missing or extra EST signal) Code #41: Cylinder Select Error (Faulty or Incorrect Mem-Cal) Code #42: Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Circuit. Code# 43: Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Circuit. Code #44: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit Lean. Code #45: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit Rich. Code #46: Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS)(PASS-Key) Circuit. Code #51: Mem-Cal Error. Code #52: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Low. See ECM Code #52 Item #3. ZR1 ECM CODES 1990 TO 1992 Code #53: System Voltage. Code #54: Fuel Pump Circuit (Low Voltage) Code #55: System Voltage Code #56: Vacuum Sensor Circuit. Code #61: Secondary Port Throttle Valve System. Code #62: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit High. Code #63: Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Open. Code #64: Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Lean. Code #65: Right Oxygen Sensor Circuit Rich. 2. ZR1 Ride Control (SRC) Codes. 12 = Start of sequence 13 = Left rear time out 14 = Right Front time out 21 = Left Front time out 22 = Right Rear time out 31 = Left Front out of position 32 = Right Front out of position 33 = Left Rear out of position 34 = Right Rear out of position Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock 41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage 42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions 43 = selective ride control switch circuit open. 23 = If you start the car more than 3 times and do not move the car this code will set. Drive 3-6 feet and the light will go out. The ride control controller is located in the bin behind the drivers seat mounted with the ABS controller. 3. ZR1 ABS Code - Definition 1990 Service Manual: (* = Requires Tech 1 Daignostic Tool) 12 - Diagnostic System Operational 21 - RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 22 - RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 25 - LF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 26 - LF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 31 - RR Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 32 - RR Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 35 - LR Wheel Speed Sensor Fault 36 - LR Toothed Wheel Frequency Error 41* - RF Solenoid Valve Fault 45* - LF Solenoid Valve Fault 55* - Rear Solenoid Valve Fault 61* - Pump Motor or Motor Relay Fault 63* - Solenoid Valve Relay Fault 71 - EBCM Fault 72 - Serial Data Link Fault 75 - Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Short to B+ or Ground, or Open Circuit) 76 - Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Signal Out of Range or Incorrect) Clearing Codes The fault codes in the EBCM's memory are erased in one of three ways: 1. Diagnostic Enable Line Procedure 2. Tech 1 "Clear Codes" Selection 3. Igniton Cycle Default Whichever method is used, be sure to verify proper system operation and absence of codes when clearing procedure is completed. [B] 4. ZR-1 CCM Codes Code Definition 1.1 DISPLAY CCM fault codes 12 On-board diagnostics no codes (this is a good thing: no problem found) 13 DIC switches open or shorted to battery 14 DIC switches shorted to ground 16 Ignition 3 fuse circuit open 21 Horn relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 22 Rear defogger relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 24 Courtesy lamp relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 25 Courtesy lamp relay coil circuit open or shorted to ground 26 LCD blanking control circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open 27 LCD blanking control circuit open or shorted to ground 31 LCD data circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open 32 LCD data circuit open or shorted to ground 33 Data clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 34 Data clock circuit open or shorted to ground 35 Data strobe circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 36 Data strobe circuit open or shorted to ground 37 M clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 38 M clock circuit open or shorted to ground 41 Loss of ECM serial data communications 51 Pass-key invalid key detection 52 Pass-key key detection circuit shorted 53 Pass-key – key detection circuit open or shorted to battery 54 FEDS fuel enable failure 61 Pass-key – key #1 programming resistance out of range 62 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance out of range 63 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance low 71 LCD dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 72 LCD dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground 73 LED display dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit 74 LED display dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground Last UPDATE of post 111 Dec, 2017 |
Cliff,
Thanks for sharing all the info. We benefit from you not having a life; oh, sorry.....this is your life and mine too.....lol. Craig |
Fuel Trim and Closed/Open Loop Operation
Originally Posted by phrogs
(Post 1585779696)
I'm saying the mechanical part of the butterfly's is not functioning. That's what it sounds like.
As for the injectors when I was troubleshooting my misfire I found that the injectors have specific wiring for each injector so the ECM tells each one to fire. Not a bank get what I'm saying.
Originally Posted by bad-zr1
(Post 1585780035)
The ECM tells each injector individually when to fire but the duration (pulse width) that the injector is open is determined by the O2 sensor reading for that bank. So yes an exhaust leak on the passenger side would change the amount of fuel to all 4 cyclinders on that side. A bad or lazy O2 sensor on that side would also affect all 4 cyclinders. You should be able to "smell" the difference at the exhaust pipe on each side if it is that rich.
XfireZ51 has provided additional information.....:thumbs:
Originally Posted by XfireZ51
(Post 191678)
The O2s modify the fueling by R/L bank but only in Closed Loop. The VE table is used no matter, but fueling will be the same for both banks in the case of Open Loop. This is true IF there's been no LEARN prior to use. Otherwise the learned BLM will be used, just not modified. In Closed Loop, the PW will be calc'd for the individual bank of cylinders dynamically using O2 sensor input.
The reason its called "closed loop" is because the o2 sensor provides the results of the current BLM/INT levels and the ECM uses that input to modify the BLM/INT on a continuous basis. Running Open Loop means that the ECM will use whatever fueling is in the VE tables with no mod based on o2 sensor input. The CHIP calibration has programmed fueling tables called VE tables. These are specific to the motor its controlling. They form the base fueling while everything else modifies them. The ECM uses the values in the VE tables all the time, whether in Open or Closed Loop. Closed Loop invokes the various routines that modify the fueling based on sensor input like o2. There is a table that defines for the ECM the amount of delay, based on airflow, before allowing the INT to change. Its an O2 INT Delay. This way the ECM correlates the effect of changes it has made w the results coming from the O2. Otherwise it would be out of sync and "chase its tail". In general, the use of headers and moving of the O2 further back has not demonstrated a need for changing the values in this table. Most tuners will resort to Open Loop when larger cams are introduced into the equation. All "LEARN" happens in Closed Loop. However, LEARN is not always ON with Closed Loop. Several other parameters define when LEARN is active. If LEARN is not active, the ECM uses whatever fuel trims have been stored for those cells. The overall goal is to get the VE tables to be as close to optimum as possible requiring little intervention by the ECM. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bed29e96f8.jpg Additional information regarding the use of Headers and the o2 sensor by Marc......Great Stuff :thumbs:
Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck
(Post 188943)
I think that a large factor in bank to bank difference in fuel trim at idle is the use of headers. With headers only two cylinders per bank fire across the oxygen sensor. Maybe because the system has only half of the normal gas samples, the average is not as accurate. The OE manifolds have the primary tubes shaped so that the gas from each of the cylinders jets across the oxygen sensor. The deflectors can be seen if the heat shields are removed from 1990 - 1992 OE manifolds. I observe bank to bank difference of up to 15 fuel trim counts on about half of the engines that have headers and no other modifications.
I have observed that when warmed up from cold, as the coolant temperature goes past 170 degrees, about half of the totally stock engines will swing in and out of learn mode at low loads. If the engine is run at full load to 7000 rpm in second gear a couple of times the system will stay in learn mode. I have not observed any effect on drivability on an engine that is switching in and out of learn mode. It may be important during an emissions test.
Originally Posted by Dynomite
(Post 1581564054)
Battery disconnect trick (rough cold idle)
Marc Haibeck descibed this unique situation regarding an initial rough cold idle. Fuel Trims are fueling data that are displayed on an engine data scanner. I have been disconnecting the battery several times during the day after each ride to correct a vibration issue I had behind the speedometer in the dash. The vibration was actually my top lose which telescoped down to the dash. Each time I disconnected the battery, I lost the system's learned fuel corrections (Fuel Trim). The system self tunes the low load fueling after it is warmed up. It then uses the learned values on the next cold start until it is warm enough to go into Closed Loop and resumes learning. Exactly what I was experiencing as it goes into Closed Loop around 167 deg engine temperature. Then ran smooth having to relearn low load fueling. |
Originally Posted by Dynomite
(Post 1583870824)
Craig.....as you and I both know.....you are one of my chief mentors and you my friend can ALWAYS be counted on to ask the critical questions for the optimum learning experience :flag:
This is one part of my life which is extremely enjoyable as are the other parts :D There is no way to describe in words what you have done in a short time with the sharing of all the information and resources. I cannot even imagine the time you have devoted and I cannot think of anyone that compares. I really don't have much to contribute or I really would. Thanks for all that you do and I wish your information was available when I got involved with the LT5 over 10 years ago. The new folks to the ZR-1 are so fortunate to have your info available. God Speed my friend. :cheers: Craig |
Do you have any additional diagrams or marked up PDF's on how you connected the hoses to remove the air from the system? I think I know but a bit more info would be helpful. The previous owner plugged the TB coolant passages and I need to drain the radiator to replace the IH gaskets. I cracked a head on another vehicle because of airlock, dont want to do that again.
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LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified
Originally Posted by KJL
(Post 1584756539)
Do you have any additional diagrams or marked up PDF's on how you connected the hoses to remove the air from the system? I think I know but a bit more info would be helpful. The previous owner plugged the TB coolant passages and I need to drain the radiator to replace the IH gaskets. I cracked a head on another vehicle because of airlock, dont want to do that again.
This method works great with TB Coolant blocked and works even better with TB Coolant intact ;) Getting the Air Out of the Coolant System The two coolant manifolds attached to the injector housings should get warm within 1 minute with engine running if the water pump is pumping coolant. If not......you have to get that air out of the water pump area (Air Locked Water Pump). A. Disconnect the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" from the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold and rotate that "L" up connected to the Drivers side Coolant Crossover Pipe. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b64b004a0e.jpg Attach a second "L" to the Injector Housing Coolant Manifold rotated up and fill that "L" with coolant. Blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f5287a7ec1.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f1b20341b2.jpg B. Refill the Drivers Side "L" temporarily connected to the Drivers Side Coolant Manifold with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the Drivers Side Crossover "L" that has been rotated up. When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 1 minute), your coolant is NOT flowing. The Simplified Method........ I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret...... A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight. B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time). With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator. Coolant Overflow Under Passenger Side Headlight. When the engine is Hot I fill the Coolant Overflow reservoir to within an inch of the top. On a Hot Engine the coolant overflow is filled by the expanding hot coolant to its maximum fill. As the engine cools the coolant is then sucked back into the engine. What happens after doing some coolant draining during Plenum Pull or thermostat installations, is the engine develops Air Pockets in the coolant system. As the engine warms up to Hot these Air Pockets are pushed out of the engine into the Coolant Overflow. Once the Air gets into the Coolant Overflow the air is caught at the top of the coolant never to return to the engine (Which is exactly the purpose of the Coolant Overflow). All the Air caught within the engine is flushed out by the Water Pump as you rev the engine once the engine has reached optimum temperature. The Air ends up within the Top Side of the Radiator where that Air is pushed out of the radiator into the top of the Black Coolant Reservoir in front of the Passenger Side Windshield. From their the air is forced into the Coolant Overflow as the Hot Air and Hot Coolant expands during engine Warm Up to Engine Hot. If after several cycles of Engine Operation the Coolant Overflow continues to loose Coolant, You Have a Coolant Leak in your System. Last UPDATE of post 116 Dec, 2017 |
LT5 PCV System
A Brief Discussion of the LT5 PCV System in regard to the Oil Catch Can and its use.
1. CamShaft Area. The two cam covers have a filter and air tube connected to the Air Horn. This allows dry fresh air to enter the Camshaft area venting moisture and fumes from that area. The two little restricted holes in each Head/Injector Housing entering the Injector housing (restrictions located in Head or Injector Housing depending on 90' or 91') minimizes oil and air flow going from the Camshaft area into the Injector Housing. 2. Crankcase Area. The Crankcase is vented upward through the two large "L" hoses connecting the Cylinder Case vents to the Injector Housing Ports located under the Plenum. This allows the piston ring Blow By to be vented to the Injector Housing. 3. Injector Housing Function. These two sources of contaminated air (contaminated in the camshaft area by moisture and piston ring Blow By coming up through the oil vents for oil to drain downward) meet in each Injector Housing. 4. PCV Valves Function. All this contaminated air is vacuumed from each side of the Injector Housing through the PCV valves which restrict the flow at high Vacuum. The Vacuum is applied from the PCV connection on the front of the Plenum behind the Throttle Body. At Idle, Plenum Vacuum is high and the PCV valves close down a bit. At lower Vacuum when the Throttle is open (higher Crankcase Blow By) the PCV valves open up a bit more. I am thinking if you have excessive piston ring Blow By more than the PCV vacuum can handle through the Plenum, that excessive Blow By would be forced in reverse through the cam covers to the Air Horn with oily fumes captured by the Cam Cover Filters. 5. Summary of PCV System. In Summary, the contaminants from the Crankcase and Camshaft area meet in the Injector Housing and are vacuumed through the PCV valves. Fresh air picks up moisture by passing through the Camshaft Area and Crankcase Blow By contaminants from the crankcase are both vented to the Injector Housing. 6. Oil Catch Can. Both contaminated air sources pick up oil fumes on the way to the Plenum which fumes are liquefied and caught in the Oil Catch Can installed on both my 90' and 91'. If you have no Oil Catch Can and a bit of Blow By like most higher mileage engines (Frank has a tight rebuilt from bottom up engine I am thinking) the oily fumes continue on into the Plenum exactly as Paul describes :thumbs:
Originally Posted by Paul Workman
(Post 184540)
Oil, not separated, makes its way to the combustion chambers, fouling plugs, carboning up the valves, contributing to knock, plugging the MAP sensor hose (leading to other seemingly disassociated issues with idle and AF mix...) Not good. The LT5 (among other open deck motors) is prone to a little more crankcase pressurization - hence oil blow-by - than some others (tho some LS motors also have oil separators for the same reason: keeping oil out of the cylinders).
P. Notes: I highly recommend Jerry's new PCV valve rubber hose which solves the issue of the vacuum leak from the plenum to the PCV system. See PCV Upgrades You can see the size of the PCV Connector openings (Jerry's new on left and old on right in each photo). Replacing these with Jerry's NEW PCV top connector (on left in each photo) is a must. Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Old PCV Valve Connector on right........................................ .New PCV Valve Connector on left https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b0edabbf24.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...52cdf1f47e.jpg I installed Jerry's New Dual PCV Connectors on ALL engines getting rid of all the Clap Trap Nylon Ties and Hose Clamps to keep the Old (hardened Rubber) Dual PCV connectors from slipping off the connectors or leaking Highly Recommended :thumbs: Right up near Top Of List with Blocking TB Coolant at each Injector Housing. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ca4b542e89.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...be89f0377d.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...310da986c8.jpg I also highly recommend Marc's Camshaft Cover Filters if you remove your Cam Covers for any reason. Last UPDATE of post 117 Dec, 2017 |
Three Things To Do For A No Start
Three things I do on a ZR1 just for Starters (pun intended) :D
1. Install the tccrab Starter Relay. 2. Clean the Starter Solenoid Contacts. 3. Make sure the ground wire contacts and Battery are in good condition. Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...00d7d88a47.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...25b3828451.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a2f54f9f4c.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2fc28ff826.jpg Last UPDATE of post 118 Dec, 2017 |
Last 1990 ZR-1 Sold (#3032) and ZR1 Inspection TIPS
1990 ZR-1 ULNOTWN (Number 3032 - The Last 1990 Sold).
Summary of 1990 Reconditioning/Modifications (#3032) (57K miles) 1. Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, RC Injectors, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected). Got rid of three check engine lights on dash (Low Tire Pressure. Infl Rest, and Ride Control) 1. Reinstalled rear tires (pulled small nail and internal boot on previous plug). 2. Installed low mileage front FX3s I had as spares. 3. Added version 4 of Haibeck AYBKG chip. 4. New Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator (May 2019). 4. Installed New Serpentine Belt. 5. Reinstalled Left and Right Accelerometers on frame rail for Infl Rest. 6. Added several cable ties and rearranged electrical wiring as appropriate. 7. Added Mint Condition Stock Shift Knob I had as extra. 8. Replaced broken Emergency Brake Cover (saddle) with mint new cover (saddle). 9. Added rubberized cup holders replacing stock ash tray. 10. Reinstalled CDM correctly with new nuts on each side and Refurbished Bose Radio/CD. 11. Installed two Front Speaker Amps (Nissan Maxima 975s) replacing non working stock amps. 12. Installed Differential Drain Plug. 13. Replaced All Fluids and Oil Filter. 14. Added ZR-1 Floor Mats (ZR-1). 15. Removed peeling original under hood paint and Painted under side of hood Gloss Black. 16. Added Billet Aluminum License Plate Frames Front and Back and Carter Bling on Engine. 17. Added New Black Felt Dash Mat. 18. Replaced Hood support with New Hood Support. 19. Replaced Spark Plugs. 20. Installed New Aluminum Radiator and New 180 deg F Thermostate from Marc Haibeck. 21. Installed New Heater Core. 22. Reinstalled Black Wind Skirt correctly on front and added Tow Bar Slot. 23. TB Coolant Blocked at IH (Hidden) and Installed SS Allen Head Bolts in Plenum. 24. Installed No Start Relay (Hidden). 25. Refurbished Starter. 26. New Secondary Vacuum System and Linkage (Complete. 27. RC Injectors. 28. Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337. 29. #513019 Timken Wheel Bearings and Hub Assemblies. 30. Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337. 31. New #513019 Timken Wheel Bearings and Hub Assemblies. Last 1990 Sold To Public (#3032) Read the complete thread :yesnod: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c05052c726.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e860c4cdf9.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...95e9807006.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...920f20cb55.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3a2726f17a.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f4e45812e9.jpg Changed ALL fluids today and installed Differential Drain Plug. Checked compression (210 on all cylinders) and with battery a bit undercharged :lol: Replaced two front speaker amps with Nissan Max 975s.....perfect sound on all four speakers :thumbs: Installed New Plugs and changed out Coolant to NAPA Green (see maintenance summary below). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...393e05ac4f.jpg Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, RC Injectors, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...21839655d6.jpg 2. #3032 IS The LAST 1990 ZR-1 Sold To The Public.
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195237)
I just read some information that was discovered by registry members that the actual amount of 1990 corvette zr1's was 3032 sold to the public with an additional 17 pilot cars. Apparently the Gm Archives dont show build sheets for 3033-3049 zr1's. The person working there, her name is Stacy, said there is no information past #3032. There is a confirmation of a red/saddle interior 1990 zr1 #3032 car. So if this information was correct, mine was 4th from the last zr1 built and sold to the public. Interesting.
ed ramos #3028
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195290)
I heard of a red/saddle 1990 zr1 with vin 3032 somewhere in alabama. I have never seen or heard of any cars over 3032 and neither has GM archives since they should no record of anything past 3032. I have to believe the build sheet because it also states where it was delivered too. 6/28 is very, very late production date for a 1990 zr1.
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195334)
I knew that a car dealer owned 3032 a few years ago and that it is or was a red on saddle car. That's great. That could be the last one. At least based on GM Archives it is the last serial number that sold to the public. I would like to see what the built date was on his paper work just to figure out the time line. I can't say 3032 is my favorite but maybe one of my favorites.
Originally Posted by maroon88iroc
(Post 195510)
I own #3032 and I have extensive history on the car, it was purchased new in Washington DC and moved to SC then to FL where I bought the car. I have all the original paperwork and service history on the car. I am looking to sell the car, but am also working a trade with a guy that owns a '69 convertible non #'s matching car that is said to be an original big block car. Anyone have any advice for me on my #3032 if it is this rare I would prefer to sell to a collector.
Can anyone give more info on the 17 pilot cars, what is a pilot car and what were they used for?
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195594)
I can tell you that 3032 is the last serial numbered car sold to the public. there is no record of 3033-3049 in the GM Archives. The pilot cars were probably the first non sequenced cars produced and used for all kinds of experiments, mods, driving, etc.... pilot cars are used to make tests, corrections and to iron out gremlins before the cars are sold to the public. they are also used by the press to drive on roads tests etc... they built 3049 cars. 3032 sold to the public. 17 pilot cars. could have been some crash test cars etc... durability testing cars...
I think you car is unique because it is the last 1990 ZR1.
Originally Posted by QB93Z
(Post 195679)
Here is some more information about the 1990 production data:
1990 ZR-1s VIN ...L5800001 to ...L5800016 were 1990 VIN'd ZR-1 Pilot Cars VIN ...L5800017 was the ZR-1 Engineering Lead unit VIN ...L5800018 was a Chevrolet Advertising Vehicle VIN ...L5800019 was the first public customer ZR1. The 1990 Active Suspension test ZR-1's had their own VIN sequence: ...L5700001 to ...L5700017
Originally Posted by QB93Z
(Post 195684)
#3032 is the last VIN issued to a "for sale" 1990 ZR-1. The 3049 number that was used in the ZR-1 Community for a long time is wrong. The confusion came from the count of LT5's installed in the 1990 production run. The 17 Active Suspension cars were used for engineering testing, had a different VIN sequence and were never sold to the public. Another way to say it is that there is NO 1990 ZR-1 VIN that ends in ...3033 to ...3049.
Jim
Originally Posted by edram454
(Post 195765)
Great information. what a sleuth. That is what I was looking for. Makes perfect sense and now the owner of 3032 will see how unusual his car is. He's going to trade it so there it goes. The winner will be the guy who trades for it. congrats to both.
Installation of Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337 on ZR-1 #3032. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...63ecc547a0.jpg Post 270 - Wilwood 6 Piston Brakes with 13" Rotors and Wheel Alignment Wilwood 6 Piston Brakes with 13" Rotors and Wheel Alignment The Hats are first torqued 100 in-lbs each of 12 bolts to the Rotors (Twelve 1/4x20 bolts with 8mm 12 Point heads). The two Front Caliper Bolts are torqued to 150 ft-lbs. The Rotor is then installed on the wheel and then the Caliper is installed on the Wilwood adapter (30 ft-lbs) with correct shims to center the Rotor within the Caliper. 4. #513019 Timken Wheel Bearings and Hub Assemblies. The 4 Hub Bolts are torqued to 46 ft-lbs each. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4278c9c81d.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...585bef0363.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...147636614b.jpg 5. ZR1 Inspection TIPS. Any modifications? Any photos? Any Parts replacements that you know of? Does the clutch disengage the pressure plate (shifting easy in all gears)? Do the following function? AC Air Fans Radio/CD Any check engine light at any time? What engine oil you been using? Any oil leaks? Any coolant leaks? Does the engine run cool or on hot side? Oil pressure idling? Oil pressure at 3,000 rpm hot? Stock Exhaust? Do you know if the secondaries function with power switch ON (this can be checked in a few seconds without removing the Plenum). What is the time between vacuum pump cycling with ignition key on? Check the engine oil level and color of oil and ask what brand/weight of engine oil was used. Oil should be light transparent NOT BLACK. Check coolant level in overflow container under passenger head light. Check brake fluid level and make sure clutch releases. It is hard to check clutch fluid level as reservoir is hidden under ECM located just in front of drivers side behind left front tire high point on engine. There should be removable flat black cover held on with Velcro on top of ECM. Fire it up and listen for any knocks of any kind just in case. Let it warm up until temperature stabilizes which should be mid gauge between 100 deg F and 260 deg F.....around 180 deg F more or less. Idle should be around 800 after it levels out. Idle should be smooth. Rev it up and listen for any hesitation. Just check overall condition of paint and interior for stains of any sort. Actually.....Anything except a rare rod knock or other knock and except for any serious dents or exterior damage or interior carpet stains/trip breakage are easily fixable. But when you get it home...do a compression check for starters and then post up photos and any questions you may have :cheers: If the fluid levels are where they should be and the items above check out with the clutch disengaging so you can shift easily, you should be able to drive it almost anywhere :D This list is what I look for in any inspection of a corvette for others. A good list to avoid finding issues later. In addition my first test when I get it to home base always is a compression test which takes 15 minutes. (you be looking for 210-230 lbs more or less and within 5 lbs each cylinder). Last UPDATE of post 119 Oct, 2022 |
Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...05bdafb1cc.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ead9daffa4.png
$24......Shows a gasket but came without a gasket....Price was right :thumbs: Stant 14068 Thermostat Jerry has the Rubber gasket :thumbs: Stant 14068 gasket 1. The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat. Why not just remove thermostat? NO...NO...NO!!!! I run 180 deg thermostats in ALL ZR-1s. A. At a coolant temperature of say 190 deg a 160 deg thermostat is open....so is my 180 deg thermostat. So from that point on our coolant system flow rates are identical at the same rpm. And so is the cooling. Also see Defective Stant Thermostats B. Using a 160 deg thermostat in cooler weather drops the engine coolant temperature below the designed engine temperature with the 180 deg thermostat. The PVC (at the cooler engine temperatures) is working at less than optimum temperatures as well as your oil and fuel functioning at less than optimum temperatures. C. I see no difference between a 160 deg F thermostat and a 180 deg thermostat (both with the same Full Open Head Loss) once the coolant temperature has reached 190 deg F? I know the 190 deg F will be reached slower with a 160 deg F Thermostat but that is the only difference in that you reach the same Coolant Temperature at different rates of temperature increase. Kind of like using light weight pulleys to save HP which HP is only realized on acceleration as the rotational velocity of the pulley changes. Nothing is gained in a constant velocity (constant speed) situation. FANS Oh....almost forgot.....my fans come on a bit sooner controlled by Marc Haibeck chip to help with engine temperatures when idling at a traffic light on a hot day (On at 205 deg F and Off at 200 deg F). But again....my 180 deg thermostat and the 160 deg thermostat are both open in that condition :D But MUCH MORE as you can see as the LT5 thermostat has several functions LT5 Thermostats 2. Thermostat Multiple Functions. The LT5 thermostat sits in two cavities and is located on the outlet side of the radiator. On one end of the thermostat is the first valve [pressure relief) that expands and opens to excessive radiator pressure (but only relative pressure over and above that normal thermal expansion radiator pressure). That valve is in the first cavity which is exposed to coolant outlet flow. In the second cavity is the second thermostat valve (temperature relief) which controls coolant inlet flow depending on engine temperature. GM found at high rpm and high coolant flow, excessive pressure in the radiator, due to it's restriction, would blow the rubber seals between the side tanks and the core. GM did not want to design a specific LT5 radiator, so the solution was the radiator bypass which opens when the pressure differential across the radiator reaches a certain level. This bypass valve is part of the thermostat and, when open, allows coolant to recirculate within the engine. When the Stant Thermostat is Fully Open the bottom end of The Stant Thermostat has two slots equating to approximately .07 square inches opening which feeds coolant back to the engine before passing the radiator. Again, even though the coolant passing through the thermostat from the radiator is of a lower pressure than the coolant passing the bottom of the thermostat before passing through the radiator (Radiator Head Loss), the total opening area of those two slots (.07 square inches) is very small compared to the approximately .75 square inches of a fully open thermostat. The effect of those two slots theoretically is negligible on hindering Engine Coolant passing from the radiator when the Stant Thermostat is Fully Open. [b] LT5 Thermostats ZR1 provided this photo in the LT5 Coolant System Discussion :thumbs: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a3fc73f8b1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...56ae3e0176.jpg 3. Lets simplify......the discussion of the 160 deg thermostat cooling better than the 180 deg thermostat. A. Let us say we have identical radiators, identical rpm, steady state coolant temperature, and both fans on and we are cruising at same speed. B. Lets say coolant temperature is 190 deg in both your Z and my Z given everything identical in item #1. C. Your 160 deg thermostat is full open with same flow rate as fully open 180 deg thermostat. D. My 180 deg thermostat is full open with same flow rate as fully open 160 deg thermostat. E. In other words...we both have been driving our Zs for say at least 30 minutes and have reached a steady coolant state. Now......lets say the day gets hotter. The coolant temperatures should rise the same in both your Z and my Z given EVERYTHING else is the same :yesnod: If it gets REAL HOT......both our Zs coolant will reach 230 deg at the same time. The maximum temperature reached (given it is over 190 deg) will be no different for you than me even though you have a 160 deg thermostat and I have a 180 deg thermostat. I am saying that my thermostat just maintains a minimum temperature higher than yours. I am also saying your thermostat does not maintain a lower higher temperature than mine. Once both thermostats are fully open, the coolant temperatures are controlled by everything else mentioned in item #1 and not the thermostats (yours or mine). 4. Fans and Radiators. Once your fan is on (my fan which may be on at lower temperatures is on).......we have identical radiator cooling no matter how hot it gets outside. The exception is Replacing the Fans with Higher Flow Rate After Market Fans which would solve the ZR-1 Over Heating Issue in Traffic on a Hot Day as long as you keep the rpms above 2,000 rpm(see item #6 below). Now if we change radiators.....you run stock radiator and I run Ron Davis....DIFFERENT STORY as I have greater dissipation of heat than you at all rpms (water pump speed dependent) and ZR-1 speeds (air flow dependent). 5. Engine RPM. My experience in all ambient temperatures. A. In sixth gear running 65 mph (less than 2,000 rpm) the Coolant always gets a bit over 200 deg F. On Hot days the coolant will get a bit over 213 deg F. The key is the Water Pump is not pushing enough flow through the fully open thermostat to cool the engine to a Temperature where the Thermostat takes over (180 deg F). B. If I shift to 5th gear at 65 mph (more than 2,000 rpm) the coolant temperature drops to Thermostat control (180 deg F) on cool days and drops to near 200 deg F on Hot days. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ead9daffa4.png My findings are simply that the stock water pump is a bit low on coolant flow rate at rpms under 2,000 rpm. As you can see there is a big jump in Coolant Pump Flow rate between 1,000 rpm and 2,000 rpm and it is in this area or engine RPM that the Coolant Flow Rate is not sufficient in HOT Climates when the ZR-1 is moving in 6th gear at 65 mph. The overheating issue when idling at a stop sign on HOT days (100 deg +) is more related to Fan Air Flow. Tests at 50 deg F ambient. Going 65 mph in 6th (1500 rpm) coolant temperature 205 deg F. Going 65 mph in 5th (2200 rpm) coolant temperature 192 deg F. Idling at 750 rpm coolant temperature 204 deg F. Engine rpm 2000 rpm (not moving) coolant temperature rose to 213 deg F. So...….At 65 mph it is the coolant flow. At 0 mph (Not moving) it is the air flow. If I could get the air flow higher while in traffic the issue would then be the coolant flow again where keeping rpm above 2,000 rpm would solve the High coolant temperatures on hot days in traffic. The Coolant Pump Flow at 800 rpm is 15 gpm. The Coolant Pump actually gets more efficient as the rpm increases from idle to 2,000 rpm. As Per Marc Haibeck graph provided to the ZR-1 Net email list by Graham Behan about ten years ago, the Coolant Pump flow rate through the engine (not the radiator or thermostat) is: 15 gpm at 800 rpm 18 gpm at 1,000 rpm, 44 gpm at 2,000 rpm, 65 gpm at 3,000 rpm, 90 gpm at 4.000 rpm, 120 gpm at 5,000 rpm at which time cavitation is starting. The Block Resistance at 100 gpm was 20 psi during these tests which varies as the flow rate of the pump increases. The pressure on the output of the pump during the test was 3 psi at 2000 rpm, ramping up to 25 psi at 5000 rpm. As cited above, the hoses, radiator and bypass valve were not connected as a system as per Marc Haibeck Testing. The Dual Thermostat Bypass pressure is apparently 5 psi and block resistance at 100 gpm is approximately 20 psi. I am not sure what the radiator Head Loss is at various flow rates but definitely depends on the radiator type which was not part of these tests. It would seem that the Coolant Pressure Relief Cap on top of the Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side set at 15 psi would assure the radiator maximum pressure would be 15 psi plus the Bypass Pressure of 5 psi or 20 psi. 6. Summary .....See LT5 Cooling and Radiators TIPS A. Fans turn on at 205 deg F and OFF at 200 deg F (Haibeck Chip) B. I use 180 deg Thermostats. C. Ron Davis, Dewitt, and Fluidyne multi core Aluminum Radiators. D. To solve the Hot Coolant flow when stalled in traffic would require Fans with Greater Air Flow. The Thermostat is fully open at all coolant temperatures over 180 deg F (no need to use cooler thermostat unless you want to run at temperatures below 180 deg F). The Water Pump does not provide enough flow to cool the engine at rpms less than 2,000 rpm. This is not an issue at ambient environmental temperatures on cool days. This is a problem on HOT days. The Aluminum Multi Core Radiators DO provide better Heat Dissipation and offer cooler Coolant at ALL Temperatures for which the 180 deg F Thermostat Controls the Flow (above 185 deg F Coolant temperatures the Thermostat is fully open). The Cooling effects then being dependent on Water Pump Flow Rate and Air Flow Rate through the Radiator. Having the Fans come on at 205 deg F DOES provide for COOLER Coolant in the radiator once sufficient coolant flow rate is provided above 2,000 rpm. Using Aluminum Multi Core Radiators ALSO provides for COOLER Coolant Temperatures in conjunction with the Air Flow provided by Fans and Vehicle Speed. The Heat Removal Rate from the Radiator is greater as the Air Flow Increases and as the Aluminum exposed to that Air Movement increases. It DOES make a difference if you are moving at speed in conjunction with Fans PULLING Air Flow as the additional Air Pressure Up Front does add to the TOTAL AIR FLOW through the Radiator at any ambient environmental temperatures. Using 180 deg Thermostats insures that the engine will not run cooler than that temperature since the Thermostat is in control and controls the Coolant flow rate through the engine at all Coolant Temperatures less than 180 deg F. 7. Modifying the Stant Thermostat. There has been some suggestions to drill 1/8 inch holes in the thermostat flange to allow better cooling. Just tested several 180 deg F Thermostats for opening temperatures and found the Stants 180 deg Thermostat will start opening at 175 deg F with complete opening at 185 deg F. Marc suggested at one time the older Stants will deteriorate (Decrease in FUll Open Area) by up to 15% as they age. A thermostat with over 50k miles generally opens 5 degrees later and opens about 85%. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F. Thermostat opening at 175 deg F....................................Thermostat opening at 185 deg F (Full Open) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd483d6c82.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...05a4a594e0.jpg A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area. Given the LT5 runs Hotter idling at a stop sign than at 2,000 rpm as cited in Item #5 in the link above a much better focus regarding engine Heating would be engine RPM (which relates directly to pressure on the coolant flow through the Stant Thermostat) and not the Stant Thermostat (Old or New). 8. The Thermostat housing and Heater Hose Connections. Heater Hose Connection on Thermostat Housing See Item #2 Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a418faaa1a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...75d98ca062.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b2b7ea97a7.jpg Some Thoughts regarding the Thermostat Housing: A. It does not make any difference if you use a 160 deg thermostat or 180 deg thermostat....they both are fully open at 185 deg. B. I makes no difference if you drill small 1/8" holes in the thermostat flange as the additional area is only 1.5% increase per hole. C. The Heater Circuit is open at all times even on a cool engine after start as the heater will be the first to get warm coolant. D. On a very cold day with the heater on and Interior Fans set at Ten, the Heater Core with significant coolant flow could cool the engine for a significant amount of time before the main temperature controlled end of the Thermostat on the radiator side opens. The engine coolant mixed with some air would still expand into the radiator and to the coolant over flow below the passenger headlight. E. If you want to cool your engine below the temperature controlled thermostat on a cold day or cool your engine a bit more on a very hot day, run your Heater with Interior Fans set at Ten using Outside Air (not recirculate) with windows open. The additional Coolant Flow through the Heater could be as high as 14% of the total coolant flow with 3/8 inch ID Heater Hoses. F. The bottom of the thermostat on engine side opens at differential pressure of 5psi when open 1/2 inch allowing coolant to bypass the radiator (Marc Haibeck Testing). G. When the thermostat has not reached opening temperature (175 deg) the coolant recirculates through the bottom of the thermostat at a pressure of 5psi since the coolant flow through the radiator is blocked. H. Always use original green coolant GM 1825M. 9. Filling with Coolant. I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret...... A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight. B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time). With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator. See Item #7 Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats Last UPDATE of post 120 Dec, 2018 |
Finding A Vacuum Leak
If the vacuum pump is turning on and off with the key on say every 10 seconds more or less (the vacuum pump if no leaks will actually turn on for a few seconds and then shut off for several minutes) you have a vacuum leak.
1. With plenum off (with key on) disconnect the vacuum lines one at a time starting from the pump and hold your finger over the end of the vacuum line. The pump should shut off and stay off. If the Vacuum Pump does not stop cycling the leak has been located. If the Vacuum Pump does stop cycling, the connections checked are in good condition and continue to the next Vacuum connection. 2. Now go to the next suspect connection and do the same. Once you get to the plenum Connection (the vacuum line that goes under the Plenum next to the Alternator, you have to remove the Plenum to investigate further). 3. A possibility not yet discussed......... There is a Vacuum Check Valve under the Plenum that isolates the Vacuum Pump from the Plenum Vacuum as long as the Vacuum Pump is pulling greater vacuum than the Plenum. With the Key On but engine NOT running the Vacuum Check Valve can be tested for proper operation without removing the Plenum as follows........ The Plenum source of vacuum is located on the drivers side center of Plenum. Disconnect that Vacuum Connector from the Plenum and place finger over end of vacuum line rubber connector to see if the Vacuum Pump quits cycling. With Key ON the Vacuum Pump will cycle every two or three seconds with that vacuum rubber connector NOT blocked and failed vacuum check valve. With that Vacuum Rubber Connector blocked if the Pump now stops cycling you have located the Vacuum Leak which actually is a faulty check valve located under the Plenum. If disconnecting that Vacuum line results in the Vacuum Pump not Cycling without blocking with finger, the Vacuum Check Valve is operating correctly. The Plenum has to be removed to replace that check valve. This faulty check valve can fail intermittently and will then cause intermittent operation of the Vacuum Pump. The test as described is a simple test and can be conducted with the Plenum in place. 4. Once you get just past the leaky connection, holding your finger over the end of the vacuum line will not stop the pump from recycling. You have now found the leaky connection :thumbs: Usually the rubber connectors leak from age (hardened rubber). Last UPDATE of post 121 Feb, 2015 |
Wilwood C5 Z06 Brake Conversion with Sawblades
I have a 90' and 91' with identical Wilwood/C5 Z06 Brake Conversions as shown. A-Molds fit this conversion without any issues other than the redistribution of wheel weights. The question came up regarding Stock Sawblades fitting this Wilwood/C5 Z06 Brake Conversion.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6e84b08c75.jpg I measured a stock Sawblade wheel and found the inside diameter is about identical to A-Molds at the two critical locations of the Calipers (see 13B below). I also measured the spoke Offset from the Hub and found it to be .75 inch as compared to 1 inch for A-Molds (see 13A below). When installing the Sawbade wheel the spoke of the Sawblade JUST came into contact with the C5 Z06 Caliper as shown. In other words I would say the offset of the stock Sawblade wheel is 1/4 inch short of what would be required (3/4 inch vrs 1 inch). It would be easy to place a 1/4 inch spacer on the Hat of the Wilwood Rotor but you would then be 1/4 inch shorter on the stud length for the wheel nuts which you end up with 1/4 inch less than the bit over 1/2 inch threaded contact now (as I view my Hubs with the Wilwood Rotors installed with Hats). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...866a3e101e.jpg The inner wheel Clearance of this brake setup using A-Molds was identical (90' and 91'). For OTHER wheels (other than A-Molds and Sawblades) the information below will apply. See item # 13A and 13B of ZR-1 (90' and 91') Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion for do it your self wheel measurements to determine if your wheels will fit this Brake Set Up. Copied here 13. Wheel Dimensions that will fit on this brake Set-Up. This would be the limit of a wheel inner dimensions which would fit/clear this Brake Caliper Set-UP. Rather than try to measure the offset and the maximum radius of the Caliper it was easier just to measure the A-Mold wheel which just clears the spokes as well as the Caliper outer radius as shown below. I would say this is Minimum Clearance. The clearances of this Set-Up is on the order of 1/4 inch on spoke and 1/8 inch on wheel inner radius so very close. There is slop in the Caliper pins riding in the bracket so this clearance is definitely required. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5ccd26c931.jpg A. Spoke Offset. The Spoke Offset from hub surface is 1 inch at the widest part (outer edge) of the Caliper. The wheel weights are located on the inner rim and single stacked. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...621991ef94.jpg B. Wheel inner diameter. Two Inner wheel diameters are shown. The one on the left is the wheel diameter at the hub surface which is 15.25 inches (this would coincide with the the radius of the outer part of the caliper) . The Second wheel diameter on right is the wheel diameter at 4.5 inches up from the spoke where the inner (larger radius) part of the caliper which is larger radius sits which dimension is 15.75 inches. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...766e187c41.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...89afbecd5e.jpg See Post 270 for the latest information on Wilwood 140-8337 Brake Kits which do fit the 1990 Standard Corvette and 1990 ZR-1 with Sawblades using 1/8" Spacers between the Wheel and Hat :thumbs: Post 270 - Wilwood 6 Piston Brakes with 13" Rotors and Wheel Alignment Last UPDATE of post 122 Sep, 2022 |
Rebuilding Belt Tensioner
Originally Posted by mgbrv8
(Post 189755)
Our tensioners are made by Dayco. So I called them and got in contact with a wonderful guy named Randy. He verified my thoughts that the LT1 and LT4 tensioners have the same internals as our tensioner. So I ordered a new Dayco tensioner from rock auto with a discount coupon and came out to a total of $38 and it came with the pulley with the belt guides so that was handy because all you can buy right now is the smooth pulley.
Photos provided by mgbrv8 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d2271ec12d.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9c5a563f98.jpg That is some great information right there provided by David Hetrick (mgbrv8) :thumbs: Last UPDATE of post 123 June, 2019 |
Checking Lubrication System
GENERAL CHECKS
Post 18 - Engine Oil Pressure/Temperature Sensors Post 19 - LT5 Lubrication Tricks Post 20 - Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...16e8a04928.jpg Last UPDATE of post 124 Dec, 2017 |
SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings
SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings 1. Tools. One 10 inch cresent wrench (Box Wrench is best), One vice, Air compressor, Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel). The best tool for cutting the SS Braided Hose is a Small Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel) which does not fray the SS braids on the hose ends. It is also best to use an appropriate size Box Wrench on the Hose Fittings (box end) to minimize leaving marks on the fittings. [B]I use Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and SS Braided hose from Summit Racing. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c9744e5cd8.jpg To remove existing 12AN x 3/4 NPT fittings from the Oil Filter Housing use a 1-1/8 inch box wrench (combination box/open end) with the box end on the fitting interlocked with a 3/4 inch box wrench on the other end. This will provide the leverage/torque without excessive horizontal pressure to remove the fittings. I use permatex when installing the New 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings into the Oil Filter Adapter (lower fitting first). Let the ZR-1 sit over night before removing the existing Oil Cooler Hoses to minimize oil spilling. Use of 10AN Hose/Fittings I use all 10AN Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and 10AN Hose....The 10AN SS Braided hose I use has ID of 9/16 inch and the 12 AN SS Braided Hose has ID 5/8 inch. As it turns out.....the 12AN hose with 5/8 inch ID is identical to stock Oil Cooler Hose having ID of 5/8 inch. Also I noted the ID Fittings on the stock Oil Cooler Hoses on the Oil Cooler end where the tubing is located is less ID than the SS Braided 10AN Oil Lines. The Stock Oil Cooler hoses have 6 inches of steel tubing on Oil Cooler end that are identical in ID (9/16 inch) to SS Braided 10AN. Further, the Stock Oil Cooler hoses are 17 inches long as compared to 13 inches long for SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses. The Oil Filter Adapter end of the Stock Oil Cooler hoses is only about 1/2 inch ID at the fittings. Which if you add all that up I would say the total head loss in the stock Oil Cooler hoses is about identical to the SS Braided 10AN with Aeroquip 10AN Fittings. 2. Measuring SS Braided Hose Length. A. Follow Step #3 below and make up one end of each SS Braided Hose (cut longer than required to reach the Oil Cooler Adapter) with the 45 degree Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends. B. Install and snug up but not tight the 45 degree Aeroquip 10AN Hose ends onto the 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings installed into the Oil Filter Adapter. C. Take the free SS Braided Hose ends curved freely around the radiator housing as they would look in the final installation. Mark the SS Braided Free Hose Ends along Red Line A and Red Line B as shown. D. Cut these Hose Ends about 1/4 inch longer than that mark. E. Install the 90 degree Aeroquip 10AN hose ends as in step #3 below. F. After installation of all four 10AN Aeroquip hose ends is complete, install the 90 degree hose ends on the Oil Cooler Adapter. G. Tighten the 10AN Fittings into the Oil Cooler Adapter (18mm x 1.5 or 6AN Straight Fittings). H. Tighten the 10AN 90 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the 10AN male fittings of the Oil Cooler Adapter at the angles shown by CD and EF. Make sure there is a small gap between the bottom 10AN 90 Degree Fitting and the AC Line and the two 10AN 90 degree fittings (top and bottom) I. Install the other end of the SS Braided Hoses 45 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the respective Oil Filter Adapter male fittings and tighten. J. Now making sure the "O" rings are in place on the Oil Cooler Adapter (I use Permatex on the adapter "O" ring face), position and the adapter on the face of the Oil Cooler and insert the 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt with SS washer into the Oil Cooler Adapter and tighten the bolt. No modification of the Fiberglass Radiator Housing is required since the Oil Cooler Adapter is installed on the Oil Cooler AFTER the fittings are connected and tightened on the Oil Cooler Adapter. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...839eff5f24.jpg 3. General SS Hose Assembly with Re-Usable Fittings. A. Place SS Braided hose in vice and cut SS Braided hose to length using Angle Grinder with Cut Off wheel. Angle grinder is preferred since minimal SS wires are left free of the cut. B. Make sure NO SS Braided wires enter the hose end and make sure ALL loose SS Braided wires are ground flush with end of hose. Keep the hose in the vice with about 2 inches on the free end out of the vice. (Clean the inside of the hose end Cut Off before going further with Cotton Cue Tip . C. Take the AN reusable hose fitting and unscrew the male part from the female part. The other end of the male part will have an NPT pipe thread or "O" ring seal thread size (AN) as desired. D. Take the AN reusable hose fitting female part and screw/push onto the SS Braided hose (counterclockwise) by hand pushing onto the hose as you rotate the female hose fitting counterclockwise. Aeroquip Nickel Plated Aluminum Reusable Fittings are not threaded but ARE serrated requiring a push onto the hose only. Make sure ALL SS Braids are inside the hose fitting just pushed onto the hose. E. Screw/push the AN female reusable hose fitting onto the hose fitting such that the hose is at a depth into the female fitting as defined by the lines on the female fitting surface. F. Lubricate the inside diameter of the SS Braided hose with oil through the end of the female fitting. G. Insert the male reusable hose fitting into the lubricated hose through the end of the female fitting. H. Push the male fitting into the hose as you rotate the male fitting clockwise using a cresent wrench (Box Wrench preferred). Once the threads are caught, continue rotating the male fitting into the hose untill approximately 1/16 inch space is left between the hexigon of the male fitting and female fitting. I. Install the second hydraulic reusable hose fitting on the other end of the hose as per steps 2 through 8 above. J. Last...but not least....take an air hose (Air Compressor) and blow the hose clear to make sure you have a clean assembly (if the SS Braided hose is not too long look through the hose end to end for any debree). You now have a SS Braided hydraulic hose with fittings good for maybe 2,000 psi hydraulic pressure more or less. 4. Parts Required for SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines with Re-Usable Fittings. The SS Oil Cooler Lines are very easy to make up in SS Braided hose using Aeroquip reusable fittings and SS Braided hose available from Summit Racing. The Aeroquip Fittings are Swivel so self aligning when installing. A. Use two 10 AN Stainless Steel Braided hose B. use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated C. Use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 45 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated D. On the Oil Filter Adapter remove the 12 AN Flare fittings and use two 10AN Flare to 3/4 inch NPT. Trick to remove 12 AN Flare Fittings see Item #5 Below. E. Oil Cooler Adapter With the secondchance design use one "O" ring on each 10 AN Flare fitting with 18x1.5 metric thread. With the Jeffvette design use one Dowty Washer identical to Oil Pan Drain Plug Washer on each 10 AN to 3/8" BSPP Straight Adapter. F. One 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt G. One 6 mm SS washer H. Two "O" rings for the Aluminum adapter manifold to oil cooler interface. The first seven items can be found at Summit Racing. Secondchance Design of Oil Cooler Adapter..................Jeffvette Design of Oil Cooler Adapter https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7d7a915be4.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cabef1238d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c7369405a3.jpg I have never had one of these hydraulic lines with Aeroquip Reusable Fittings leak and they are much much tougher than original crimped fittings and easily replaced or adjusted if you want to at some point make them longer or shorter (the fittings are reusable and swivel). And......you will find a much better routing of the lines if you make them yourself by looking at the routing of the existing Hydraulic Lines. The Aeroquip Reusable Fittings come in all sizes and angles to fit any situation. You can make your own oil cooler lines as shown here and Power Steering Lines or any other hydraulic line you might need on the ZR-1. As an aside, I use the similar Aeroquip reusable fittings and Aeroquip 1509 hydraulic hose on all my farm implements and tractors. I make up all my implement hydraulic lines often replacing relatively new lines that come with the implements with my own lines that are much more dependable under extreme usage. We are talking hydraulic pressures over 2,000 psi on the hydraulics of some of these implements when the cylinders reach the stops. Once you experiment with making your own hydraulic lines with some using SS Braided hose you will never look back at buying ready made hydraulic lines again. All you need is a vice, hand grinder (or even a hack saw will work), and a couple box wrenches of appropriate size. Oh...and an air compressor to blow clean the lines after assembly. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e5b6d03ddc.jpg 5. The TRICK to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings. Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage. The issue using a Deep Socket is that the torque is applied too far out causing the socket to twist off the fitting. With the box wrench there is no twisting off the fitting with all torque applied directly to the fitting flats. ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b3a19ef435.jpg Last UPDATE of post 125 Dec, 2017 |
Getting Air Out Of Coolant System
Getting the Air Out of the Coolant System
The two coolant manifolds attached to the injector housings should get warm within 30 seconds with engine running if the water pump is pumping coolant. If not......you have to get that air out of the water pump area (Air Locked Water Pump). See LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified 1. Disconnect the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" and tip it up. Fill that "L" with coolant and blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the passenger side water pump inlet and passenger side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold. 2. Refill the Drivers Side "L" with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold where you have disconnect the "L". 3. Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 30 seconds), your coolant is NOT flowing. 4. Once the Water Pump is Pumping Coolant, ALL other air within the coolant system will rapidly be forced to the top of the radiator once the thermostat opens. That Air will be forced into the Coolant Reservoir located at the high point of the coolant system just in front of the passenger side firewall. Make sure that Coolant Reservoir is full at all times (once the engine is running that Coolant Reservoir becomes pressurized) so be careful in removing the "radiator" cap. 5. Keep a hand on both Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds making sure they continue to get hot after the initial warming (within 30 seconds). As the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds get hot place your hand on the Radiator Hose (Coolant Connection To Radiator) indicating the thermostat has opened when the Coolant Connection To Radiator starts getting warm. At that time the rest of the Air in the Coolant System will purge itself as the engine heats up and coolant expands forcing all air into the Coolant Reservoir and ultimately into the Coolant Overflow container under the Passenger Side Headlight. After the engine is turned off as the engine cools, the Coolant will be topped off within the engine as the coolant is sucked back into the engine from the Coolant Overflow container under passenger side headlight. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c12c2c7316.jpg Last UPDATE of post 126 Dec, 2017 |
Replacing Bolts in various Components and the use of Loctite
Some Tips of Replacing Bolts in various Components and the use of Loctite.
Clean, dry bolts with a couple drops of blue Loctite on bottom threads of bolts (Injector Housing) and thin coat of Permatex on gaskets (except when I have a gasket NOT exposed to coolant in which case NOTHING on gasket). Red Loctite on everything inside the Front Cover. Blue Loctite on Oil Pan Bolts. Nothing on Head Gasket and nothing on Plenum gasket since I have TB/Plenum coolant locked. Actually I do not use any Loctite on my SS Allen Head Bolts (Cam Covers or Plenum). I use Aluminum Stat-O-Seal Washers on all Allen Head SS Steel Bolts installed in the Plenum and Cam Covers (including the IH Coolant Manifolds). Aluminum Stat-O-Seal washers with molded Buna-N inner seals are much more reliable than the more common steel stat-o-seals. If the rubber portion fails to make contact all around the port, the aluminum will act as a crush washer, providing a reliable metal to metal seal. Use them to seal screws, bolts or plumbing fittings. The Buna-N seal is resistant to petroleum fuels and oils. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4495e09b36.jpg Last UPDATE of post 127 Dec, 2017 |
Activating the Secondaries
Before you tighten down the Plenum (with Plenum tipped up in front) and ALL vacuum lines, and DIS module connections in place....check your vacuum systems.
With all vacuum lines connected, turn key on and listen for vacuum pump to shut off. If it does not shut off, start at the closest vacuum line to the vacuum pump disconnecting the line and holding your finger over the end. If the pump shuts off the leak is on other side of that. Go to next fitting and do the same until you are past the leak wherein the vacuum pump will NOT shut off. You have now located the leak. Also check your HVAC and Cruize Control Vacuum System (check ALL connections). Also check your EVAP Purge system connections (charcoal canister which is under drivers side headlight on your 90'). That single small vacuum port under front of plenum facing rearward (90' only) is for the Evap Purge System. The second larger vacuum port on drivers side lower front of plenum is the main vacuum line for the Charcoal Canister. The second Vacuum port right next to that Charcoal Canister port is your PCV Vacuum port. With the key on, ground the pink wire in the green connector (third from drivers side) on ECM. Use a small finishing nail stuck in alongside the wire connector with an alligator clip pigtail attached to the end for grounding. This will activate the Secondaries which you can watch with the plenum tipped up in front before you bolt it down. This after you are sure you have NO vacuum leaks in the Secondary System. See Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators You should eliminate TB coolant so you do not have to mess with coolant every time you remove the Plenum. Vacuum Systems 90' and 91' (Secondary and Cruize/HVAC) Last UPDATE of post 128 Dec, 2013 |
Engine has to be pulled to time Camshafts
All you need is a 15/64 drill bit to pin the camshafts ;)
You also need timing chain mechanical tensioners. Or you can visually even get closer if you want to advance the pinning hole in the camshaft a bit past or before the pinning hole in the Camshaft Retainer. Camshaft Timing Camshaft Timing (Locking the Camshafts) and Camshaft Lubrication I have removed the Heads with engine in car but then camshaft timing as well as Head Bolt Torque application is almost impossible with engine in car. Pull the C-Frame, the Transmission, Bell Housing, exhaust manifolds....pull Plenum and IH to make it easy. I have actually installed the LT5 with Headers attached ;) Oh.....I pulled windshield wiper motor and cover off AC Evaporator just to get those out of the way for easy engine installation. Last UPDATE of post 129 Dec, 2013 |
Cam Cover Filters
Removing Cam Cover and Camshaft Timing Inspection
Cam Covers (Filters and Wear Strips) PCV system (Need for Oil Catch Can) So.....you are pulling most oil through the Cam Cover Filters l at WOT and if you have a clogged air filter you are pulling even more vacuum at WOT from the Cam Cover vents but that is prolly just not a factor. Now if the Cam Cover Filter is clogged up, you might have a positive crankcase pressure since there is not much vacuum on the PCV system. The crankcase pressure would be greatest at WOT with the most gasses escaping into the crankcase around the rings. In the case of a positive crankcase pressure you might see oil around the Cam Covers Or Oil in Spark Plug Area. Just guessing here to determine what can be done if the Cam Cover Filters get clogged up Cam Cover Filters It seems that the Crankcase pressure would be totally dependent on the condition of the rings. PCV valves, and Cam Cover Filters. The amount of gas passing through the PCV system and Cam Cover Vents is equal to the amount of gas passing past the rings at all times. I switched from Scotch Brite to Marc Haibeck's new Cam Cover Vent filter material Cam Cover Filters You can see a faint image around the first spark plug access hole where the "O" ring makes contact with Cam Cover. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...366c927352.jpg Last UPDATE of post 130 Dec, 2017 |
Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Reference Links
Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Reference Links
ALERT http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif The BIG Trick for Photo Album Use on the Registry is..... After you have selected 800 or 400 or other pixels using Paint (or other photo pixel resize software) on your computer and applied to any photo on your computer....and after you have uploaded that photo to your Registry Album of Albums. Once the photo is in your Registry Album (resized by PAINT on your computer) you go to that Album and LEFT Click on the photo....It will then appear the size you PAINTED. You then select and copy the BB Code. Then Paste the BB Code into a post. Another way is to LEFT Click on the photo......It will then appear the size you PAINTED. You then right Click and Select Copy. Left Click on Insert Image in the Post Heading and Paste the Copy in the Insert Image Box. Click on OK and the image will be Inserted where your curser was set before you selected Insert Image. DISCUSSION 1. Photo Resizing for Forum Posts (this applies to Registry Albums which CF Albums are a bit different (see item #3 below). It is assumed you have Paint on your computer. If so you can resize photos on your computer to any size you would like to see in a post using Paint. Click START....select Paint.......File......Open....and select your photo. Then once photo is loaded into Paint.....select Resize. Chose 50% for Percentage for example. Save resized photo in same original folder but with an m after the title indicating Medium Size for example. Load that photo into your albums on this Forum. Click on that Album Photo and copy the BB code. Then paste the BB code into your post. This Photo BB Code is [IM G]http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=211&pictureid=1614[/IMG] for example for the first photo (space between M and G or you would see photo). See Creating Albums and Posting Photos These three photos have been resized using three different Percentages in Paint. You can select various Percentages in Paint depending on the size of your original Photo. The first photo is 450x600 pixels. The second photo is 245x327 pixels. The third photo is 123x164 pixels. You can right click on any photo and select properties to see the Address (url) as well as photo Dimensions (size in pixels). I now use Pixels in PAINT and shoot for 800 or 400 pixels. You could make your photos a bit smaller but it does depend also on the viewers screen aspect ratio and screen size. Each computer (with different size screen) will see the post photos a bit different. Also.....if you make your photos a smaller size you can place them in the post side by side with no space between the closing [/IMG] of one photo and the opening [IMG] of the adjacent photo. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ctureid=124111http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ctureid=124112http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ctureid=124113 2. Creating Reference Links. When we are at it.....here is how to create Link References like this Tech Info - LT5 Modifications Rebuild Tricks 500 hp Here is how you do the Link Reference with a space between the r and l or it would show up as above ;) [ur l=http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070548]Tech Info - LT5 Modifications Rebuild Tricks 500 hp[/url] the http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-z...post1580070548 part is the url copied from that thread top of page :thumbs: More Suggestions regarding Uploading Photos from your Albums. 1. This photo was resized on my computer using PAINT. 2. Then the photo was uploaded to my Registry Albums on this Forum. 3. I then clicked on that photo and copied the BB Code which is posted as [IM G]http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=211&pictureid=3056[/IMG] 4. I left a space between the M and G so the photo would not show ;) OR ALERT http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif The BIG Trick for Photo Album Use on the Registry is..... After you have selected 800 or 400 or other pixels using Paint (or other photo pixel resize software) on your computer and applied to any photo on your computer....and after you have uploaded that photo to your Registry Album of Albums. Once the photo is in your Registry Album (resized by PAINT on your computer) you go to that Album and LEFT Click on the photo....It will then appear the size you PAINTED. You then select and copy the BB Code. Then Paste the BB Code into a post. Another way is to LEFT Click on the photo......It will then appear the size you PAINTED. You then right Click and Select Copy. Left Click on Insert Image in the Post Heading and Paste the Copy in the Insert Image Box. Click on OK and the image will be Inserted where your curser was set before you selected Insert Image. Just showing what you can do with Album Photos using Paint on your computer before you upload to your Albums on the Registry Forum. http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3063 http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3065 http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3064 3. Differences between the Registry and CF Album Functions. We do have Photo Album Capability on the Registry and on CF now (with 3rd Party Hosting). The Photo Albums on the Registry now allow up to maybe 400 photos. Corvette Forum has a Photo Album Storage Capacity of 500 Photos. And.......using CF Forum Photo Albums is sooooooo easy sizing photos as you post.......... CF Photo Albums functions You will see if you quote me the dimensions for each photo I Experimented tested are different. I use photo widths of 400, 600, and 800. One example of a Photo Insert....... ([IM G][u rl]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-picture_php_pictureid_164659_1eb7e7d265d f47de66e0e117d87c54c1cd05fe5a.jpg[/url][/IMG]) You will see 400x300 for small size photo...you can just change that number to 800x600 for large size photo or any size you want....I use multiple of 400 and sometimes 600 for width. The photos will then show as you sized them when you save the post. Now that is SIMPLE....if in fact you see them as different sizes on your cell phone/computer? In other words you upload just one photo and as you post it you can size it as you like. Unlike Photobucket you have to resize photo on Photobucket (then two or three photos) to Post the one size you like. Except on the ZR-1 Registry Forum I have to use PAINT to resize (pixels) photos before I upload as shown below. The two Forums Albums function a bit different....on CF you can right click on photo to see Pixels under Properties. In Edit Mode on CF you can change pixels as you post. If you right click on these photos below shown on CF you CAN see the Pixels but cannot change the Pixels as you post if you are using Registry Photo Albums on CF........:D On the Registry right clicking the photo does not show pixels but the photo number is shown which has been sized by photo number using PAINT before you upload ........It gets complicated but if you know how CF and Registry Photo Albums function....it is SIMPLE :cheers: The photos below top are CF 133, 400, 800 widths. The photos bottom are Registry 800 and 400 pixel widths. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpg http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3064http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3063 http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3188 http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3189http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3189 There is a lot to be said about your Laptop or Desk Top screen size, screen resolution, and Text/App Size when viewing photos in Forum Posts. How the Forum Post photos appear on other screens was a mystery to me until I visited Best Buy today (Aug 13, 2017). Also checked how the Forum Post photos appear on very large flat screen. :thumbsup: No longer a mystery how this 800 pixel wide photo appears on the latest and greatest laptop screens or a desktop Wide Flat Screen. Went to Best Buy and then loaded the ZR1- Net Registry Forum and this photo on ten or more different NEW Laptops/Desk Top Computers on Display..... My Laptop (relatively older Laptop) screen Resolution is 1366x768. ON ALL THOSE NEW Laptops tested (At Best Buy) as well as the New Desktop Wide Screen (at Best Buy) the Screen Resolution can be adjusted as well as Text, app Size. This Photo appeared identical in terms of percentage of screen width (about 3/4 screen width) and PERFECT High Quality with the proper combination of Screen Resolution and Text/App Size %. That includes the DeskTop Wide Flat Screen in which this photo appeared with complete perfect Quality with ALL Details showing with the proper Selection of Resolution and Text/App Size % I tested New Laptops with Resolutions/Text Sizes as Follows Using this Registry Photo shown here sized to 800 Pixels as Posted. 1289x768 100% 1289x768 125% 1856x1392 150% 1856x1392 200% 1920x1080 100% Desk Top Large Flat Screen 1920x1080 150% Desk Top Large Flat Screen 2256x1504 150% 2256x1504 200% 3000x2000 200% 3000x2000 300% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3200 My Best Buy Experiment today leads me to believe 800 pixel wide photos is perfect for ALL Laptops and Desktops with Wider Flat Screens simply because Screen Resolution and Text/App Size is Adjustable on the New Computers. :thumbs: Anyone can repeat this experiment at Best Buy. On any Laptop on Display, just go to where you place a web address on the screen and erase the current Microsoft link and type ZR1 Registry Forum and select the Forum and then go this thread and this post as you like. You can test as many Laptop, Ipads, Desk Tops as you like :yesnod: Go to Laptop Settings and select Display and check the Resolution and Text Size % which you can adjust for optimum on screen Display of this 800 Pixel Photo no matter what Screen Resolution you select. You adjust the Display Resolution and Text/App size by going to Settings and then Display (Click on the Windows 10 symbol bottom left corner of screen). Last UPDATE of post 131 Sep, 2017 |
Using Forum Photo Albums……Resizing photos
There are lots of options using Forum Albums for most that post. It is fast, simple and you can size photos for posting easily on either Forum (Registry or CF).
I just determined we can NOW have up to 10 images in each post on the Registry. On CF Albums you only need to reload one photo which can be sized as you post using pixels. You can load 400 photos on Registry Albums and Resize using Paint before you load using Pixel Sizing. A. Creating Personal Photo Albums on CF. The photos below are CF 133, 400, 800 widths. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpg a. Creating Personal Photo Albums on CF. 1. Log on to the Forum. 2. Left Click on User CP on the menu bar (left hand side). 3. View Your Control Panel in left column. 4. Go down to Networking and left click on Pictures & Albums. 5. Left Click on Add Album on left. 6. Fill in Title: (Any title you want for the Album you are creating). 7. Fill in a brief description of the Album (My Red Corvette for example). 8. Left Click on Album Type: (Public or Private) I always select Public. 9. Left click on Submit. b. Uploading Photos to Personal Album on CF. 1. View your Albums (you can have several) and left click on an Album. 2. Left click on Upload Pictures upper left of Album title. 3. You will now see Pictures to Upload and Browse in boxes. 4. Left click on Browse. You will now see your folders and files on your computer. 5. You can select up one level (folder with green arrow) or you can open a folder (left click on a folder). 6. Finally you get to the folder that contains your photos. Left click on any Photo Title and left click on open. The path will be inserted in the box left of Browse. 7. You can select three photos to upload at a time on this Forum. 8. Left click on Upload Pictures at bottom of page. 9. Once pictures are uploaded, select Save Changes and you are done. c. Posting Pictures using Photos in your Personal CF Albums. 1. Left click on your ID and go to your Personal Albums. 2. Left click on a Personal Album in the right hand column. 3. Left click on the picture you want to post. 4. Copy (left click and then right click and select copy) the BB Code (bottom of picture) and right click paste in a post. d. Resizing Photos after inserting in Posts. You will see in (Properties) the dimensions for each photo below are different (right click on photo and left click on Properties). I use photo widths of 400, 600, and 800. One example of a Photo Insert ([IM G][u rl]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-picture_php_pictureid_164659_1eb7e7d265d f47de66e0e117d87c54c1cd05fe5a.jpg[/url][/IMG]) you will see 400x300 for small size photo...you can just change that number to 800x600 for large size photo or any size you want....I use multiple of 400 and sometimes 600 for width. The photos will then show as you sized them when you save the post. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4d378eb13c.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1aba067905.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...721ef37424.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1cd05fe5a.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f40ef34baa.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...269711aaf1.jpg The first photo is the 400 x 275 pixel photo. The second photo is the 800 x 550 pixel photo for single post photos one above the other. The third photo is the 800 x 600 pixel photo if you want to show detail. The first two photos are a 1990 (L98) with SW Headers and Magnaflow exhaust. Eliminated air pump, eliminated EGR, Haibeck Chip and some other stuff (over 100 mph in the quarter). The next photo is a 800 x 600 two ZR-1s. The next two photos are 400 x 300 a modified 91' ZR-1. The last photo is 600 x 450 a 1995 ZR-1. For additional Help in creating Posts using Link References Reference Link Names B. Creating Personal Photo Albums on ZR-1 Registry. The photos Below are Registry 800 and 400 pixel widths. http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3064http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3063 http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3188 http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3189http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3189 1. From your Laptop............... 2...... Opened "Paint" on Laptop. 3.......then opened this photo in "Paint" from my ZR1 Folder. 4.......resized the Photo using Pixel Resizing to 800x600 Pixels. 5.......saved photo replacing original photo. 6.......Logged in to ZR1 Registry and clicked on my ID. 7.......Opened my Photo Albums and selected Album AMP19 for experiments. 8.......Selected "Upload Pictures". 9.......Browsed my Laptop ZR1 Folder and selected the Newly Saved Photo. 10.....Left Clicked on "Upload Pictures". 11.....Left Clicked "Save Changes". 12.....Left Clicked Photo just uploaded. 13.....Right Clicked on Photo just Opened and selected Copy. 14.....Hit Edit on this post and pasted what I just copied. 15.....Placed [IMG] in front and [/IMG] behind what I just pasted. 16.....Saved Post. The current Registry Photo Album Capacity is 400+ photos and each post can now contain 10 images. The Corvette Forum Photo Album Capacity is near 400+ photos :thumbs: ALERT http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif The BIG Trick for Photo Album Use on the Registry is..... After you have selected 800 or 400 or other pixels using Paint (or other photo pixel resize software) on your computer and applied to any photo on your computer....and after you have uploaded that photo to your Registry Album of Albums. Once the photo is in your Registry Album (resized by PAINT on your computer) you go to that Album and LEFT Click on the photo....It will then appear the size you PAINTED. You then select and copy the BB Code. Then Paste the BB Code into a post. Another way is to LEFT Click on the photo......It will then appear the size you PAINTED. You then right Click and Select Copy. Left Click on Insert Image in the Post Heading and Paste the Copy in the Insert Image Box. Click on OK and the image will be Inserted where your curser was set before you selected Insert Image. http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3200 C. Screen Size and Screen Resolution Effects when viewing Photos on Forums. There is a lot to be said about your Laptop or Desk Top screen size, screen resolution, and Text/App Size when viewing photos in Forum Posts. How the Forum Post photos appear on other screens was a mystery to me until I visited Best Buy today (Aug 13, 2017). Also checked how the Forum Post photos appear on very large flat screen. :thumbsup: No longer a mystery how this 800 pixel wide photo appears on the latest and greatest laptop screens or a desktop Wide Flat Screen. Went to Best Buy and then loaded the ZR1- Net Registry Forum and this photo on ten or more different NEW Laptops/Desk Top Computers on Display..... My Laptop (relatively older Laptop) screen Resolution is 1366x768. ON ALL THOSE NEW Laptops tested (At Best Buy) as well as the New Desktop Wide Screen (at Best Buy) the Screen Resolution can be adjusted as well as Text, app Size. This Photo appeared identical in terms of percentage of screen width (about 3/4 screen width) and PERFECT High Quality with the proper combination of Screen Resolution and Text/App Size %. That includes the DeskTop Wide Flat Screen in which this photo appeared with complete perfect Quality with ALL Details showing with the proper Selection of Resolution and Text/App Size % I tested New Laptops with Resolutions/Text Sizes as Follows Using this Registry Photo shown here sized to 800 Pixels as Posted. 1289x768 100% 1289x768 125% 1856x1392 150% 1856x1392 200% 1920x1080 100% Desk Top Large Flat Screen 1920x1080 150% Desk Top Large Flat Screen 2256x1504 150% 2256x1504 200% 3000x2000 200% 3000x2000 300% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3200 My Best Buy Experiment today leads me to believe 800 pixel wide photos is perfect for ALL Laptops and Desktops with Wider Flat Screens simply because Screen Resolution and Text/App Size is Adjustable on the New Computers. :thumbs: Screen Shots of the same 800 pixel photo on Laptop and Desktop screens of different Resolutions and Text/App Sizes. 1289x768 100% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3396 1289x768 125% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3395 1856x1392 150% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3393 1856x1392 200% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3394 1920x1080 100% Desk Top Large Flat Screen http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3400 1920x1080 150% Desk Top Large Flat Screen http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3402 2256x1504 150% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3392 2256x1504 200% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3391 3000x2000 200% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3397 3000x2000 300% http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=3399 Anyone can repeat this experiment at Best Buy. On any Laptop on Display, just go to where you place a web address on the screen and erase the current Microsoft link and type ZR1 Registry Forum and select the Forum and then go this thread and this post as you like. You can test as many Laptop, Ipads, Desk Tops as you like :yesnod: Go to Laptop Settings and select Display and check the Resolution and Text Size % which you can adjust for optimum on screen Display of this 800 Pixel Photo no matter what Screen Resolution you select. You adjust the Display Resolution and Text/App size by going to Settings and then Display (Click on the Windows 10 symbol bottom left corner of screen). Last UPDATE of post 132 Sep, 2017 |
Minimum Restoration of a 1990 (#0072) ZR-1
Minimum Restoration of a 1990 (#0072) ZR-1
Summary of 1990 Reconditioning/Modifications (#0072) Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected). 1. Replaced Power Steering Pulley with Billet Aluminum Pulley. 2. New Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator (Apr 2019). 3. Replaced Crank Case Vent Cover Gasket (several loose bolts - use Red Loctite). 4. Replaced Aftermarket Spark Plug Wires with LT5 Original Plug Wires. 5. Blocked TB Coolant at Injector Housing (appearance is as stock). 6. TB Coolant Return Line to Coolant Surge Tank Blocked. 7. New Spark Plugs. 8. New Secondary Port Throttle Linkages. 9. New RC Injectors. 10. New Charcoal Canister 11. New Primary and Secondary Injector "O" rings. 12. New Plenum Gasket (use NO gasket sealant of any kind.....Dry Gasket- NO Loctite). 13. New Crank Case PCV "L" hoses under Plenum. 14. Reconditioned Vacuum Canisters (shined up). 15. Reconditioned Starter Solenoid (wire brush contacts on plunger). 16. This time I had to replace bearing on Solenoid end of starter armature (it was a bit rough). 17. New Radiator Hoses with rounded edge clamps and installed New 180 deg F Thermostat from Marc Haibeck. 18. Checked all Coils for proper and consistent resistance. 19. Reconditioned Coil Plate (shined up). 20. Checked Alternator Bearings and shined up Alternator. 21. Replaced Fuel Line "O" Rings at Connection Rear Passenger Side of Plenum. 22. Replaced Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Gaskets and bolts (Use Heat to remove original Torx bolts). 23. Checked ALL Injector Housing Bolts for tightness (Did NOT remove Injector Housings as there were NO oil leaks). 24. Used light Steel Wool (0000) and Simple Green on Plenum and Cam Covers (Will leave Cam Covers Stock Look without Painting or Powder Coating). 25. Removed cover (six 4mm Torx 20 bolts) and dried out TB Coolant Area above TB. Will Replace this cover with Carter Billet Aluminum (ZR-1). 26. Added the Starter Relay installed just under the ECM. 27. Air Duct Support Hoops. 28. Replaced Heater Core See Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection 29. Replaced Windshield See Replacing the Windshield and Wiper Motor 30. New Secondary Vacuum System and Linkage (Complete. 31. Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337. 32. New Nitto Tires and "New" Salad Shooter Rims. A. Changing Engne Oil and Other Fluids. For Engine Oil Change, Let it sit overnight....drain oil in morning including filter change without starting engine. Sitting overnight should make oil filter change easy with no spilled oil (Drain....not Extract). Draining is better than extracting for the simple reason any unreasonable contaminants sit in the bottom of the oil pan where extraction is impossible....also.....water is heavier than oil. When the oil draining starts to drip vice run you are done ;) See LT5/ZR-1 Fluids Add about 9 quarts of AMSOIL 10W-40 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d20e3718a1.jpg 25% of the oil you do not get this time you will get 75% of that next time......which is just fine. For those that have not done so......change ALL fluids when you get the ZR-1 (Engine, Transmission, Differential.....extracting Brake/Clutch Fluid) and then change Oil as well as Transmisison fluid on schedule (see Notes in LT5/ZR-1 Fluids). Wipe clean Brake Fluid reservoirs and Clutch Fluid reservoir under ECM (replace with Dot 4). B. Typical Low Mileage 1990 #0072 ZR-1 Restoration (Audio, Injectors, Starter, Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3637aac75.jpeg 1. Audio. BOSE Speaker Amp Options for 1990 and 1991 ZR-1 See Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS I picked up some more 975 Amps from 95 Nissan Maxima and some 075 Amps from Infinities I think or newer Nissan Maxima. I just disconnect this connector (shown in photo) and plug and Play New (used) Amps into the ZR-1....they ALL sound great (I have 975 Front and 975 Rear). WOW....what great sound in all four speakers....speaker Fade, Base, Treble works perfectly and volume will drive you out of the Z as you like. Had to re-install the CDM as someone removed it thinking that was the lack of sound issue and they just stuck it back held in place by the right lower knee bolster. 2. Fluids and Injectors. ALL Fluids changed out (AMSOIL 10W-40, Castrol 10W-60, Mobile 1 75W-90, DOT 4)......and Differential Case Drain Installed. See Item #4 LT5 Added Systems The Standard Dynomite Top End Restoration....... a. New Gaskets (Inj Housing, Plenum, Crank Case Vent). b. TB Coolant blocked. c. New SL4-205 RC Injectors (pressure washed valley BEFORE removing Original Injectors). d. New Coolant Hoses with rounded edge clamps. e. Pressure wash (hot water) under Plenum and total engine pressure wash (with everything under Plenum removed and valley drain cleaned). f. Starter Solenoid restored and Alternator polished (not painted). g. A Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley was added. h. Checked all Oil Pan bolts and Water Pump bolts for tightness (One bolt at a time). Before Alternator/Starter Removal (Note Injector Housing Coolant Blocked to TB - Red Allen Head Plug) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1df4a8a181.jpg After Alternator/Starter Removal (One Hour Later....took extra time to pressure wash Engine with Hot Water and to recondition the Starter Solenoid). See Starter, Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2e0083c9fa.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...569345976f.jpg 3. Clutch Slave Cylinder Issues. The Clutch Pedal was SOFT indicating low Clutch Fluid and it was difficult to shift the ZF 6-40 Transmission into various gears including reverse. Typically the Clutch Fluid Reservoir Fluid Level is not maintaned on low mileage ZR-1s simply because the Clutch Fluid Reservoir cannot be found. The Clutch Fluid Reservoir is located under the ECM (disconnect the two 10mm nuts and swing the ECM upside down to locate the Clutch Fluid Reservoir. Clean the Reservoir of old Brake Fluid and fill full indication with DOT 4 Brake Fluid. Pump the Clutch Pedal many times slowly self bleading the air from the Clutch lines. The Clutch Pedal will become a bit harder to push from the initial depression all the way down indicating the Clutch is being fully released. This will allow easy shifting of the ZF 6 -40 Transmission in all gears including reverse. Just in case it is a leaking Slave Cylinder (as in the case for this low mileage 90') or Leaking Master Cylinder, you will have to install a new Clutch Master and New Clutch Slave Cylinder. The New Slave Cylinder has a much better bleeding system wherein the original Save Cylinder was almost impossible to bleed. I installed a New Clutch Master Cylinder and New Clutch Slave Cylinder from Jerry's Gaskets and Clutch functions perfectly. 4. Fired it up (March 13).....WOW....runs so smooth in all gears :thumbs: The TB Coolant Elimination at the Injector Housing is hidden and cannot be seen from an external inspection (the return line to the Coolant Overflow tank in front of Passenger Side was blocked internally with a soldered nipple) ;) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b4c6104026.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a10291c029.jpg The 10 minute Plenum Removal has been confirmed (once coolant is drained as in this case without TB coolant blocked at the start) The 10 Minute Plenum Removal TIPS :thumbs: 5. Wilwood Brake Kit 140-8337. Wilwood 6 Piston Brakes with 13" Rotors and Wheel Alignment 6. New Tires and "New" Salad Shooters. New Tires on new Salad Shooter Rims Mar, 2024 Front........Nitto 555G2 275/40 ZR17XL 102w Rear.........Nitto 555G2 315/35 ZR17XL 106w https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...33d4017b7.jpeg 7. New Tools These from Harbour Freight...... a. 1/4 inch drive Torx #40 hardened steel for Plenum and Cam Cover Bolts (just long enough to reach between those two tight runners on the Plenum). b. 14 inch long combination 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive Flex Head Socket wrench strong enough (even using the 1/4 inch end) to remove the hardest to remove Torx Cam Cover Bolts. The 14 inch leverage eliminates the need for a cheater bar on the typical socket wrench. Notes: 1. If I had the gaskets in hand and new coolant hoses.....this complete restoration I would expect to take maybe a day with the wrenches. It is almost a must to have a high pressure washer connected directly to HOT water. The Transmission, Under the engine, front of engine, front suspension.....and particularly around the Oil Filter Adapter and below the Dipstick seem to be places where the most oil has been spilled over the years. Also have on hand a can of engine degreaser. Spray with degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes before hitting it with Hot High Pressure water. 2. On this LT5 it will appear TB coolant is intact as I plugged the rubber hose (going to Coolant Surge Tank) at the connection to Plenum and inserted 1/8 inch Allen Pipe Plug in Injector Housing. Also will retain original #40 Torx Plenum and Cam Cover Bolts. Carter Bling in Engine Compartment will be added. Original LT5 Color will be retained.....making this engine appear TOTAL STOCK. Last UPDATE of post 133 Feb, 2024 |
Continued........Minimum Restoration of a 1990 (#0072) ZR-1
Continued........Minimum Restoration of a 1990 (#0072) ZR-1
For those wondering what to do when you receive your first ZR-1 here is a short list of the Minimum Restoration of a 1990 (#0072) ZR-1 (something I do to ALL ZR-1s). This list is a Minimum and keeps the LT5 Stock in appearance and function (except for TB Coolant Elimination and some other items that cannot be seen). ;) List of What should be Done if it Needs it or NOT. The very first think I do is check Compression shooting for 210 lbs within 5 lbs each cylinder (see item #10). 1. Change ALL Fluids (Includes Coolant with NAPA Green). LT5/ZR-1 Fluids https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...73242b8aa7.jpg 2. Add Differential Drain Plug, Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley, Debree Screen, Gun Metal Oil Cap and 60/80 Amp Starter Relay. Associated with Debree Screen is Clean Radiator (including Oil Cooler) of ALL Oil and dirt using Engine Cleaner and Hot Pressure Washer. LT5 Added Systems 3. Remove Plenum and Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing (Undetected and appears stock). Install 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plugs (21/64 or 11/32 drill) two each Injector Housing (IH) Coolant as shown. Photo by Ccmano https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...902c17de05.jpg This will require you insert a plug in the Coolant Return Line on the Passenger side of the Plenum (the only TB Coolant hose that requires a hose clamp). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...159e3734e6.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9bfbc2c0fd.jpg See Summit Racing 1/8 inch Aluminum Pipe Plugs for Aluminum Pipe Plugs. When you install the plugs.....keep trying the plugs as you tap to make sure the final installation is flush and use Red Loctite on the plugs.. Also check Water Pump Area and Thermostat Area and other areas for coolant leaks. Tighten Bolts, Hose Clamps as required or replace Components/gaskets/hoses as required. LT5 Eliminated Systems 4. With Plenum Removed, Recondition Starter Solenoid, Check Injectors Resistance which should be around 12 Ohms each (I use RC Engineering 205s changing out ALL 8 Primary and 8 Secondary Injectors), Check Coils, Check and fix any vacuum leaks, Check Fuel Pressure at Fuel Rails (should be around 45-50 lbs). Starter, Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks Fuel Injector Resistance Plenum In Place TIPS Checking fuel pressure TIPS 5. With Plenum Removed, secondaries, vacuum system, coils, starter removed, spray everything with Engine Degreaser and then Steam Clean entire area including Under Starter (where starter was before removal) and Clean Valley Drain, Tighten/replace gaskets and use red Loctite where required. Steam clean Crank Case Vent Cover before removal and replace Crank Case Vent Cover Gasket. 6. Painted Plenum and Replaced Plenum with New Gasket (dry gasket with no sealant applied). Replace Plenum Bolts (SS Allen Head with Stat-O-Seal Washer) with NO Loctite as no need with TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...91029d6475.jpg 7. Check and re-install INFL REST Sensors (Drivers Side and Passenger Side). Replace Battery Hold Down Bolt with Allen Head Stainless Steel Bolt. Ignition Key Codes and Clearing INFL REST Codes 8. Clear Ride Control Codes by first fixing replacing associated FX3 shock or Shock Actuator. Bilstein Shock Applications and Self Alignment TIPS 9. Check for Oil Leaks or Clutch Master/Slave Leaks and clean/add fluid as appropriate. 10. Replace Plugs. While Plugs are out check Compression shooting for 210 lbs within 5 lbs each cylinder (Check Compression with fully charged battery). https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1a1fc8a43e.jpg 11. In general Clear ALL Codes after Fixing Systems and adding Marc Haibeck Chip AYBKG Haibeck AYBKG 12. If Sound System is NON Working....Replace associated BAD Speaker Amps with Nissan Max 975s. 13. LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....adding Carter Bling. 1. Set Throttle Cable Billet Brackets. 2. One Fuel Line Billet Clamp (87 and 91 in red). 3. Two Brake Reservoir Tops. 4. One Oil Filter Cover with Etching AMSOIL 10W-40. 5. Coolant Reservoir Top. 6. Coolant Overflow Top. 7. Power Steering Reservoir Top. 8. Winshield Wiper Reservoir Top. 9. TB Top polished Billet Aluminum with Chev and LT-5. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...90c0fe0fbb.jpg 14. Add Lee's MAP Sensor Cover with ZR-1 Year and Car Number. Lee's MAP Sensor Cover 15. Replace Sagging Headliner. See Robert Custom Headliner 16. The Air Injection Hose from the Air Injection Control Valve to the Intake Air Filter is usually missing. I replace this hose with two GOODYEAR Heater Hose Part # 63924 I.D. 0.750"; Length 27" cut and spliced together as shown. The splice is made up of a 3 inch x 1/2 inch electrical PVC coupling (inside) the two Goodyear Heater Hoses cut and coupled at about the Hood Cylinder. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0e2c67d598.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...22f28c74eb.jpg 17. Check Tire Pressure (I start at 30 psi), Fill gas Tank with Clean New 91 Octane and Go for a Ride :D This is my standard Top End Restoration. This time I will leave the Water Pump as there are NO leaks at all and ALL bolts were tight. 1. Replaced Power Steering Pulley with Billet Aluminum Pulley. 2. Replaced Belt Tensioner Pulley with Billet Aluminum Pulley. 3. Replaced Crank Case Vent Cover Gasket (several loose bolts - use Red Loctite). 4. Replaced Aftermarket Spark Plug Wires with LT5 Original Plug Wires. 5. Blocked TB Coolant at Injector Housing (appearance is as stock). 6. TB Coolant Return Line to Coolant Surge Tank Blocked. 7. New Spark Plugs. 8. New Secondary Port Throttle Linkages. 9. New RC Injectors. 10. New Charcoal Canister 11. New Primary and Secondary Injector "O" rings. 12. New Plenum Gasket (use NO gasket sealant of any kind.....Dry Gasket- NO Loctite). 13. New Crank Case PCV "L" hoses under Plenum. 14. Reconditioned Vacuum Canisters (shined up). 15. Reconditioned Starter Solenoid (wire brush contacts on plunger). 16. This time I had to replace bearing on Solenoid end of starter armature (it was a bit rough). 17. New Radiator Hoses with rounded edge clamps and installed New 180 deg F Thermostat from Marc Haibeck. 18. Checked all Coils for proper and consistent resistance. 19. Reconditioned Coil Plate (shined up). 20. Checked Alternator Bearings and shined up Alternator. 21. Replaced Fuel Line "O" Rings at Connection Rear Passenger Side of Plenum. 22. Replaced Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Gaskets and bolts (Use Heat to remove original Torx bolts). 23. Checked ALL Injector Housing Bolts for tightness (Did NOT remove Injector Housings as there were NO oil leaks). 24. Used light Steel Wool (0000) and Simple Green on Plenum and Cam Covers (Will leave Cam Covers Stock Look without Painting or Powder Coating). 25. Removed cover (six 4mm Torx 20 bolts) and dried out TB Coolant Area above TB. Will Replace this cover with Carter Billet Aluminum (ZR-1). 26. Added the Starter Relay installed just under the ECM. 27. Air Duct Support Hoops. 28. Replaced Heater Core See Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection 29. Replaced Windshield See Replacing the Windshield and Wiper Motor NOTES: Everything Degreased and HOT WATER Pressure Washed when TOP END Disasssembled. This included clearing the Valley Vent through Bell Housing. Oh....LT5 ran great (I thought) but found four bad Injectors (resistance 10 ohms, 10 ohms, 6 ohms, 6 ohms) Compression checked earlier and ALL Cylinders 215 lbs within 5 lbs. ALL Fluids were Replaced (Engine Oil, Transmission Oil, Differential Oil, Coolant) and Differential Drain Plug Installed Earlier. Haibeck Chip and Starter Relay were also installed earlier. Typically I check and locate ALL vacuum leaks on secondary system but this LT5 had NO Vacuum Leaks (Secondary Canisters functioned perfectly BEFORE Start of Top End Restoration) :cheers: Last UPDATE of post 134 Dec, 2017 |
Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection
1. Removing the Heater Core.
I replaced the Heater Core on a 1990 ZR1 (#3032) WITHOUT pulling the Dash but you have to remove the CDM. There is a little trick on removing one 7mm screws on top of the front vent connection (two 7mm screws). The first 7mm screw is easily removed using a 7mm combination ratchet wrench from underneath. The second top 7mm screw can be reached by taking a long (large) screw driver and pry out on the top duct and against the Heater Core housing top. That gives you just enough room to use a 7mm combination ratchet wrench followed by a needle nose to make the final turns on the 7mm top screw on that vent flange. So there you have it....a new trick....one guy on Youtube said it was impossible but what does he know :D Quickly......as I recall......all accomplished mostly with a 7mm 1/4 inch socket and various 1/4 inch extensions ;) Outside 1. Drain Coolant. 2. Disconnect Battery (I use a simple quick disconnect). 3. Remove two 7mm screws in Coolant Reservoir in front of Passenger side. 4. Remove two Heater Hoses from Heater Core and set aside the Coolant Reservoir with bottom hose still connected to Coolant System. I had to cut the Heater Hose between the Coolant Reservoir and Heater Core to remove it. GATES 19743 {#11743, SID9743} Molded Heater Hose; 23/32" x 29/32" x 13" https://www.rockauto.com/info/64/197...OP_A__ra_p.jpg Inside 1. Remove Passenger Seat (4 nuts and two electrical). 2. Remove hush panel two 7mm screws (and maybe one on right side also). 3. Disconnect light connector on Hush Panel and set Hush Panel aside. 4. Remove three 7mm screws at bottom of Heater Core Housing accessing from under right side Hush Panel area. 5. Remove one 7mm screw on right side of Heater Core Housing (half way down) accessing from under right side Hush Panel area. 6. Remove several 7mm screws back side of glove box. 7. Remove phillips screw front latch glove box and remove glove box. 8. Remove one top 7mm screw on left side that can be seen on Heater Core Housing from glove box area. 9. Remove one 7mm screw top right side Heater Core Housing that cannot be seen directly but use a mirror. 10. Remove bottom 7mm screw from Heater Core Housing holding air duct flange (there is a bottom and top screw). Use a 7mm combination ratchet wrench. 11. Pry open a great space between Heater Core Housing and top duct with large screw driver. 12. Remove top 7mm screw from Heater Core Housing holding air duct flange. I actually used a needle nose pliers to rotate the screw and lift out after it was loose using a 7mm combination ratchet wrench. 13. Remove the CDM. See item #2 for CDM Removal Bose Speaker Amps and CDM Replace 14. Now........wiggle out the Heater Core Housing down and out. 15. Remove bottom Heater Core holder screw and open Heater Core Holder. 17. Remove Heater Core. Notes: A. There are a couple wire holders held by fittings inserted in holes in the Heater Core Housing which you just slip out of the fitting and poke out holder once Heater Core Housing is removed. B. The hoses to the Top Vent (one goes to the right and forward and one goes to left and rearward) have to be removed from the vent plastic tube. C. The left Top Vent tube has to be pulled forward a bit (you can get a hand in the gap) as you pull down on the Heater Core Housing. D. Make sure electrical connectors to the right side are not getting caught on the Heater Core Housing as you pull down on the Housing. E. The wires that are under the Heater Core Housing have to be disconnected (3 or 4 connectors) to allow the Housing to be removed. F. There is a vent tube connected (slip fit) to the vent from which the two bolts were removed in step 10, 11 and 12. G. The Air Duct Flange has a nipple on it which helps if that flange is pulled from the Heater Core Housing at initial removal. H. There is a 1/2 inch long flange (inside flange) on the Heater Core Housing where it connects to the main air tube to the left. That means it helps to initially pull/push the Heater Core Housing to the right when removing. Replacement of Heater Core Housing will involve a magnetic 7mm 1/4 inch socket to insert the various 7mm screws https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ef5431fef8.jpg Actually pretty easy with the trick of step 11 to remove the 7mm screw in step 12. 2. Replacing the Heater Core. The Heater Core has a Top Clip that can be removed after the Heater Core is removed. The Top Dual Conduits can also be removed from the Heater Core outer half of the case once that case is removed. A. Heater Core Top Clip. The Top Clip has a single 7mm head screw that can be removed once the Heater Core is removed. The CDM has to be removed to gain access in front of the New Heater Core for the replacement of the front cover. Removal of the CDM also allows enough room for the installation of the Top Heater Core screw and clip once the New Heater Core is positioned by using a 7mm socket and 1/4 inch socket wrench with 2 inch extensions from the Hush Panel area. Without that Top Clip removed it would be almost impossible to re-install the Heater Core Tubes through the Fire Wall. Removal of the CDM in the Heater Core Housing Removal first steps also helps considerably giving considerable more space to install the Heater Core Top Clip and the Outer Heater Core Housing half. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8a4a1ea380.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...27c51ef770.jpg B. Top Dual Conduits. The Top of the Heater Outer Housing (the one that is removed) has the top dual conduits for two vents attached to the Heater Core Outer Housing by two rivets (defrost and vent into passenger side just below glove box). Those two Conduits (one forward to left and one rearward to right) actually stick out interfering with the removal and installation of the Heater Core Outer Housing. You can get the Outer Housing removed by wiggling and bending the plastic Heater Housing but it is difficult because of the two conduits on top attached to that housing by two rivets. the top Dual Conduits for the two vents were attached to Heater plastic hoses (defrost and vent into passenger side just below glove box) which the two plastic hoses could be disconnected allowing removal of the Heater Core Housing with this dual top conduit attached. Those two Heater Plastic Hoses would be almost impossible to re-install after the Heater Core Housing is positioned and wiggled back into position having to connect the two plastic hoses after the Heater Core Housing is in place. The Solution....... The Solution is to separate the Top Dual Conduit from the Outer Heater Core Housing after it is removed by drilling out the existing Aluminum Pop Rivets. The Top Dual Conduit is installed by itself (with the plastic hoses connected to the Top Dual Conduit) followed by installing the Outer Heater Core Housing. This is then followed by connecting the two components together (using the Nylon Push Rivets) after both are in position. Using a 3/16 drill bit or a bit smaller I drilled out the two rivets holding the Top Dual Conduit to the Outer Heater Core Housing. The Top Dual Conduit that is removed has two molded holes (which are not drilled but molded) 15/64 diameter. I use a 15/64 drill bit the same diameter as the two holes in the Top Dual Conduit and drill out the two holes which are a bit smaller where the original aluminum rivets were inserted in the Outer Heater Core Housing. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2f8f2feb5c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4361bbd11f.jpg First I install the Dual Top Conduit (one plastic piece) onto the two plastic hoses (one to the rear and one to the front) with easy access having the outer Heater Core Housing removed. Push the Dual Top Conduit into the plastic hose going forward and it will "snap" into place securing that plastic hose to the Dual Top Conduit. Same regarding the plastic hose connection on the right side going rearward. Next the New Heater Core is lifted into position and secured at the bottom clamp with one 7mm screw and at the top with one 7mm screw and the Top Clip. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0260add840.jpg I then slip the Heater Core Outer Housing up into place and install two Nylon Push Rivets replacing the two removed rivets connecting the Dual Top Conduit to the Heater Core Housing. The two Nylon Push Rivets are shown before final installation. The installation of the Nylon Push Rivets is very easy as there is room to place and push the Rivets after installation of the Heater Core Housing. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5a403db10c.jpg Lastly the CDM is replaced and all wiring placed back into position. 3. Heater Hose Connection. I am assuming the Heater Hose Connection is something like this.... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2727866d59.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3ac47c963b.jpg I am thinking this Connector (with black insert) is actually the Heater coolant (hot coolant) to the Heater. Photo of quick connect Heater Connector from Jerry http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-nkg90o...20.120.jpg?c=2 Thermostat Housing https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a418faaa1a.jpg Thermostat Functions https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a3fc73f8b1.jpg Last UPDATE of post 135 Mar, 2018 |
Hose Clamps, Screws/U-Nuts, Magnetic Sockets
Hose Clamps, Screws/U-Nuts, Magnetic Sockets
1. Hose Clamps If you use SAMCO Hose Clamps for example you can use an 8mm socket and 1/4 inch socket wrench with two 1/4 inch universal joints with a short and long extension. The screw on the SAMCO hose clamp is 8mm. You can set the hose clamps such that they can easily be reached with the 1/4 socket combination....even the Water pump hose connection on the thermostat housing from the passenger side frame rail. I like the SAMCO Hose Clamps because they do not bite into any kind of coolant hose you might use. And......using an 8mm socket rather than a long screw driver with no universal joint gives you all kinds of options in those tight areas for tightening the various hose clamps. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...54f90400f0.jpg Be very careful moving the AC compressor around with hoses attached to the Evaporator :D 2. 7mm Screws/U-Nuts and Magnetic Metric Sockets Every One needs these screws, U-nuts and Magnetic Metric Sockets if you are working on the interior (Center Console, Dash, Hush Panel, Glove Box). Working on the interior I have found many times these screws missing and in need of replacing :cheers: Not shown also are 1/4 inch Wobble Extensions for the 1/4 inch socket wrench. 7mm Screws 7mm U-Nuts 1/4 inch Magnetic Metric Sockets https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c5199e5164.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0ef3cc1a07.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6a6376621c.jpg Last UPDATE of post 136 Dec, 2017 |
Using Permatex and Headliner Glue
I use this Permatex Super 300 and Headliner Glue......seems to work great for me ;)
1. Permatex. Oh...yes.....it is not so easy to remove my Permatex Super 300 gaskets (I use single edge razer blade) but having said that....it is hard to imagine a gasket that is not sticking upon removal also sticking enough to do its job......if that makes any sense :D I have NO leaks on ZR1 (LT5s), Corvette (L98s), Toyota Trucks, John Deer Tractors......:yesnod: I use Permatex Super 300 on gaskets such as oil pan, Injector Housing Gasket to Head, and water pump gasket (including thermostat gaskets or in our case thermostat mating surfaces) where oil or coolant is involved. I also use a bit of this Permatex on coolant pipes by lightly coating the inside of the hoses before I slip them on the coolant pipes. I also use Permatex Super 300 on oil pan drain plug metal gaskets and oil pan drain plug threads. I do not use Permatex on Head Gaskets, Plenum Gaskets, or Cam Covers. On gaskets, I coat each side of the gasket lightly (very lightly) with Permatex Super 300 and then let it sit until the Permatex gets tacky such that the gasket will stick in place (helps keep gaskets in place while placing water pump or oil pan for example). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ec99e3e552.jpg Permatex Super 300 is a non-hardening sealant designed to resist heat transfer fluids such as oil or antifreeze. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists antifreeze, aviation fuels, aggressive detergent bearing oils and lubricants - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....cpTjeJ8R.dpuf There....admitted it....let the debate begin......:D This is one of those personal preference things where there are many opinions. 2. Headliner Glue. I just installed yesterday the ZR-1 splash with Life Begins At 180 mph. The BLACK Suede is absolutely the best for color and smoothness Perfect in every way and absolutely NO SAG :cheers: I used Headliner Glue from ORielly auto parts applying three coats to the existing Foam Base (existing Foam Base is about 3/4 inch thick) and a three coats to the new Headliner. The existing Foam Base was glued in about 4 places to the top but came out easily without much damage at all. The existing Foam Base is wedged in on all sides by the top frame and can be pushed down easily popping into place. I laid the new Headliner (with three coats of Headliner Glue) on top of the Foam Base (Foam Base on floor with three coats of Headliner Glue) and smoothed out rubbing the Headliner with hands outward from center. I then folded over the excess on the radius of the Foam Base and cut leaving about 1/4 inch excess Headliner material. I then popped the Foam Base into place making sure the Headliner excess material was folded under the top frame on all sides. I did NOT glue in any way the Existing Foam Base as it is wedged solid into place and will be very easy to remove just in case. ASOLUTELY BETTER THAN NEW I had trouble figuring out which way I wanted the lettering and splash to read.....finally figured I would not be looking up when driving so installed such that the lettering and splash could be read looking up and rearward from outside open window/door :p https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ee2c75de47.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f5bf1d10ec.jpg Last UPDATE of post 137 Dec, 2017 |
Showroom Mats for the ZR-1s
Showroom Mats for the ZR-1s
If you have a very cold concrete floor you may get condensation from warm air passing over the cold floor which collects on the underside of the ZR-1. These interlocking 2 ft x 2 ft closed cell EVA 3/8 inch thick foam pads are ideal to add a bit of a moisture barrier between the floor and underside of the ZR1 as well as nice anti slip when working on the LT5 or getting in and out of the ZR-1. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6060e6e7ad.jpg Search 12 COLOR EVA Foam Floor Mat Interlocking Flooring GETRUNG 24 Ebay You select color and total coverage in square feet. mats are packaged in packs of 24 SQ FT - There are 6 tiles and 10 border pieces per pack - Each tile measures 24" x 24" and is 3/8" thick (10mm) - Each tile weighs ~ 1 pound - The material is closed cell EVA foam I selected 168 square feet or 42 2 ft x 2 ft Black mats. I also selected 168 square feet or 42 2 ft x 2 ft Red mats. One complete mat is 10 squares x 4 squares. The other complete mat is 11 squares x 4 squares. I have five ZR1s and a 1990 (L98)..... 1995 ZR-1 U2 SLOW New 200 amp Alternator TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing Haibeck Chip Wilwood C5 Z06 Brakes 1991 ZR-1 BAD Z TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing RC Injectors SW Headers with Air Injection Eliminated Haibeck Chip Modified Camshafts Ported Plenum/Injector Housing Secondaries Eliminated Wilwood C5 Z06 Brakes 1990 ZR-1 UL LOSE TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing RC Injectors SW Headers with Air Injection Eliminated Haibeck Chip Wilwood C5 Z06 Brakes 1990 ZR-1 UWLNTWN Reconditioned (NOT MODIFIED) TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing This modification cannot be seen for those that do NOT LIKE ANY MODIFICATIONS :yesnod: Haibeck Chip RC Injectors 1990 ZR-1 ULNOTWN Reconditioned (NOT MODIFIED) TB Coolant Blocked at Injector Housing This modification cannot be seen for those that do NOT LIKE ANY MODIFICATIONS :yesnod: Haibeck Chip RC Injectors 1990 L98 UWONTWN SW Headers with Air Injection Eliminated Oil Filter Adapter Modified to fit with SW Headers Haibeck Chip Last UPDATE of post 138 Dec, 2017 |
Bose (Radio, Speaker Amps, CDM) Replace
1. Bose Radio/CD.
2. Bose Speaker Amps. See Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS None left in Fresno :D The 95 96 97 98 99 Nissan Maxima and Infiniti I30 Front and Rear Bose Speakers Sigma 975 (and 075s) Nissan Maxima Speaker with Amps should look like this..... 95 96 97 98 99 Nissan Maxima Front Speakers.............95 96 97 98 99 Nissan Maxima Rear Speakers https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...35722de2ff.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e385a3e193.jpg The 1995 96 97 98 99 Nissan Maxima and Infiniti I30 Bose Speakers Sigma 975 (and 075s) Amps (Front and Rear Amps) are direct replacements for Bose Amps in the ZR-1. The only issue is the little white connector on the Nissan Amps is much more usable than the original soldered connection on the 1990 ZR-1 Bose Amps. I just disconnect this connector and plug and Play New (used) Amps into the 1991 ZR-1 (the 1990 ZR-1 has soldered connectors on the Bose Amp so have to get the pigtail with white connector for 1990 ZR-1s)....they ALL sound great (I have 975 Front and 975 Rear). All you need are the speaker Amps and a Pigtail white connector for the 1990 ZR-1 (the 1991 ZR-1 has the pigtail white connector installed) Doctor Don has extra Pigtails with connector and wire harness plug on other end for $5 (the short wire harnes that is mounted on the speaker frame attaching the Amp to the ZR-1 wire harness (two different lengths for Front and Rear the Front being longer). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...64001d5b3f.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...89cfe2a73d.jpg 3. Control Data Module (CDM) Installation. This addresses the CDM on a 1990.....1991 (Not 1995 as the 1995 CDM is easily replaceable located in compartment behind passenger seat). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...50d0bf8b25.jpg I just ran into the CDM Installation since a 1990 ZR-1 I have acquired was found to NOT have the CDM re-installed like it should have been but rather just set back in place sitting among the wires and connectors held in place by the passenger side Knee Bolster. See CDM Removal (CDM Installation NOT covered). Couple of notes for easier Bose CDM (Control Data Module) Installation on a 1990 ZR-1: A. Slide ALL Connectors that are attached to the CDM box plastic cover (under the CDM) off their respective Connector Tabs. B. Remove those tabs from the plastic Cover(squeeze the tabs on top of the plastic cover and the pins should drop out). Install those tabs back onto the Connectors(slide into the recessed groove of the connectors). C. Disconnect ALL connectors (separate the male from the female part of the connector) under the plastic Cover allowing the CDM to be dropped down a lot easier without having the electrical wires in the way (See Notes below item #3 below). D. Do not connect the two Connectors drivers side of CDM and the three Connectors Passenger side of CDM before Installation of CDM This allows the CDM To be slid to the rear when removing and slid to the front when installing as in item F below. E. The CDM Plastic Cover can be slid to the rear and down after the two 10 mm nuts are removed holding the CDM and Plastic Cover in place (leave the fuse holder attached to rear of Plastic Cover in place as well as the flasher). F. Be carful when installing the CDM and CDM Plastic Cover. The CDM slides forward in the Plastic Hanger Tabs inserting the plastic dowel of the CDM into the flange mounting hole just below the glove box. The CDM Plastic Cover slides reward on the CDM studs. Do NOT tighten the two 10 mm nuts too much.......just tight enough or the plastic tabs will break ;) G. The last step re-installing the CDM is to reconnect ALL connectors under the CDM. Install the connector tabs with connectors attached by inserting them into the appropriate 1/4 inch holes in the Plastic CDM Cover (actually under the CDM). See Typical Low Mileage ZR-1 Issues (Audio, Injectors, Clutch) which link includes Bose Amp Repair.
Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
(Post 176583)
yes only 3 connectors on the passenger side of the CDM.. there should be 2 smaller ones, those go to the speakers.
the larger one is for the head unit and power. The other larger one is not used. Be sure the antenna plug is full seated in the CDM and that it did not work its way out during the install, assuming you plugged it in before mounting it completely 4. CDM Failure. Had sound on all four speakers quit all of a sudden on my 91'. It has been said that if you do not have 12v to the speakers (orange wire with black ground) the problem is the CDM. Well......as luck would have it, I had 12v at the speakers. Also had a little hush sound on the speakers. So....replaced the Bose with one I knew was working from a 90' and still no sound. so now what......Oh geez......the CDM had to be removed as I had a spare from a 90' to try out. Well.....this is the second CDM I had to remove/replace. One CDM I found earlier not installed correctly above the Hush Panel (just sitting on the hush panel). Trust me.....I know why some guys just sit the CDM back riding on top of the hush panel :D As it turns out the spare CDM worked perfectly and have to say......replacing the CDM is NO FUN but I accomplished it without breaking the plastic tabs holding the CDM in place :cheers: CDM Repair will cost between $125 and $180. Used working CDMs can be found on Ebay for $100. Notes My Main Guy (Jeff Flint) that taught me a lot of what I know about the ZR-1 and knows everything I still do not know about the ZR-1 sent me this description of the ten pin connectors that can be disconnected for easier access to the CDM. You typically disconnect the ten pin connectors to give you some slack with the big wire bundle underneath the passenger hush panel. The connectors are held in place to the panel with push pins to keep them from rattling around. They are connectors 238 & 239. Both are ten pin, and they are easy to swap, so you must pay attention to the wire colors on each side to make sure a mistake is not made when reconnecting. 238 contains A Valet key (91) B Speed input for CCM, cruise, Radio C serial data D serial data E F Ground G H I J SES light 239 contains A Low oil B Selective ride control speed C Fuel enable ECM/CCM D E F Fuel pump, start G AC request H Power 3 amp ECM I J oil pressure As you can see, C239 contains power for the ECM and the fuel enable. Two important things to get the car to run Jeff Last UPDATE of post 139 Dec, 2017 |
Cylinder Numbers and Firing Order
Change plugs on number 6 plug wire....using good plug. You can change a plug wire without removing plenum?? :thumbs:
1 and 6 fire with 1 TDC compression and 6 TDC exhaust. 8 and 5 fire with 8 TDC compression and 5 TDC exhaust. 4 and 7 fire with 4 TDC compression and 7 TDC exhaust. 3 and 2 fire with 3 TDC compression and 2 TDC exhaust. Then we get to 1 and 6 again but this time 6 is TDC compression. Drivers side bank from front to rear: 1 3 5 7 Passenger side bank from front to rear: 2 4 6 8 Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4fd9e37166.jpg ="2"%Last UPDATE of post 140 Dec, 2017 |
very nice write up, i have only one small question. whats up with the copper pipe wedged between the exhaust and the rear diff???? why not just hang the pipes so they dont hit? what am i missing?:D
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SW Exhaust Hangers
Originally Posted by erikszr1
(Post 1585666533)
very nice write up, i have only one small question. whats up with the copper pipe wedged between the exhaust and the rear diff???? why not just hang the pipes so they dont hit? what am i missing?:D
The copper pipe is placed across the tops of the exhaust pipes allowing the spring loaded hangers to pull and hold the exhaust pipes against the copper pipe while creating a 1/4 inch gap between the exhaust pipes and the differential. Copper does not corrode and transmits heat very well. The copper pipe is captured by the four bolts of the rear Leaf Spring bracket. SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW were installed in both the 90' and 91' with this copper pipe setup. The Copper pipe spacer was added (two each 1 x 6 inch copper pipe with coupler and end caps) to keep SW exhaust 1/4 inch away from riding against Differential Housing. The end caps and coupler actually keep the spacer in place without any ties. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e5d1a6e9fd.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c173347db4.jpg I set the two rear stock spring hangers so they pull the exaust up tight against the copper spacer. Also set the rear "L" hanger so there is freedom of the exhaust system to move to the rear at least 1/2 inch when hot. Last UPDATE of post 142 Dec, 2017 |
gotcha, thank you for the reply:thumbs:
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Replacing the Coolant (LT5)
1. Replacing Coolant.
It is just a bit easier with TB coolant path in place as that makes it easier to vent air in the coolant system to the Surge Tank on initial start up (before the thermostat opens). There are two engine outlet tubes (injector Housing coolant manifolds (Left and Right). Before the Thermostat opens they allow hot coolant (with some entrapped air) to go back into the engine directly. It is during this period before the thermostat opens that the TB coolant path allows some of this entrapped air get back directly to the surge tank. After the Thermostat opens the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds vent Hot coolant (with any entrapped air) to the top of the radiator. After the water pump is fully engaged with no air lock and at the higher flow rates (higher rpms) it makes no difference if the TB coolant is blocked. Any air found in the high spots of the injector housing coolant manifolds is flushed out to the top of the radiator and then to the surge tank by the shear volume of coolant flow in the injector housings. There is a tube on the passenger top side of the radiator that allows air to be forced back to the coolant surge tank during coolant expansion as the coolant heats up.
Originally Posted by PhilipJFry
Would the procedure be any different if the TB wasn't blocked. Also is the Driver side "L" the Engine Coolant Outlet tube?
Originally Posted by Dynomite
Disconnect that drivers side Injector Housing "L" before you close the radiator drain as more coolant will drain with that hose disconnected...then close the radiator drain before you start adding coolant......
Originally Posted by Dynomite
Originally Posted by PhilipJFry
Do you have a step by step directions on flushing the coolant on the Z? I can't seem to find anything on it.
Reconnect that hose to the Drivers Side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold. Then Slowly fill the passenger side surge tank just in front of the passenger side firewall. Also fill at least 3/4 full the passenger side Coolant Overflow tank under passenger side headlight. Replace the pressure cap on the surge tank. Start and run the engine for a minute or so with your hand on both Right and Left Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds. The should start getting warm within 30 seconds of start up. If they are not getting warm after a minute, shut it down as you prolly have an air locked water pump. That would be extremely rare if you do as above. If the injector housing coolant manifolds are getting warm, shut it down and fire it up again in a couple minutes and let it run longer as the Injector Housing Coolant manifolds will gradually get HOT......followed by the top radiator hose getting warm indicating the thermostat is opening up allowing coolant to flow through the radiator. Once the radiator hose gets hot you are in business ....just take it for a spin and then shut it down letting the radiator suck coolant back out of the overflow tank under passenger side headlight. Keep that 3/4 full for the first few trips as the engine will gradually push the last bit of air out of all the voids exchanging with coolant from the overflow tank. This is the process I use with TB coolant blocked which is the most complicated case of LT5 engine coolant flushing. Let me know how it goes. Cliff Lots of stuff here for your reading pleasure... ENGINE COOLING Post 7 - LT5 Thermostats Post 8 - LT5 Radiator and Initial Coolant Fill Tricks Post 9 - Using HVAC Display for Engine Coolant Temperature Post 10 - Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant Post 11 - Radiator Debree Screens Post 12 - Getting The Air Out of the Coolant System Post 13 - TB Coolant Discussion Post 14 - Coolant Characteristics (Mix, Pressure, Elevation) Post - Eliminated TB Coolant Photos and Details |
How often do you change your oil and other fluids
How often do you change your oil and other fluids
Engine Oil I use a Mobile M1-207 Oil Filter. Change Engine Oil normally every: Annually if I do not get the 2,000 miles. 2,000 miles (City Driving). 4,000 miles (Cross Country). Transmission Oil will be changed every 10,000 miles as Bill Boudreau suggests. Differential Fluid I install Differential drain plug to get ALL the fluid removed and add New Differential Fluid on all ZR-1s when I take possession of ZR-1s. Brake and Clutch Fluids Clean out reservoirs and add New DOT 4 when I take possession of ZR-1s. Drain Coolant and add NAPA coolant (GM 1825M) when I take ppossession of ZR-1s. See LT5/ZR-1 Fluids https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c17d1c1ebf.jpg Last UPDATE of post 145 Dec, 2017 |
LT5 Eliminated Systems
Tech Info - LT5 Eliminated Systems
The LT5 runs perfectly with all that is eliminated described here. Marc Haibeck has addressed all items in a modified Low 87 Octane and a High 91 Octane Chip. 1. Eliminating Secondary Throttles/shafts. Install Dorman freeze plugs 555-108 with Loctite 262 to plug the secondary shaft ports for a complete elimination of Secondary throttle shafts and associated vacuum canisters (90 Heads on Left and 91 Heads on right). Summit Racing Freeze Plugs 555-108 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...96f297b69e.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...122942f252.jpg Removing Secondary Shafts Engine In Car TIPS Marc Haibeck mentioned to me some time ago....Haibeck Automotive Technology Removing the secondaries is not a bad idea. Marc dyno tested removing the secondary throttles and found no significant changes. Marc suggested there are three situations where removing the secondaries are useful. 1. If you are having a problem with them that you can't fix, they can be eliminated. 2. If you can't find a repair part. 3. If you have removed them to port the heads, you can save time and not reinstall them. Marc also mentioned that removing the secondaries does not effect the idle, fuel economy or torque over 1500 rpm. Having the secondaries in place might be an advantage for an emission test. Further, with the elimination of the secondary port throttle control the engine idles on the primary injector only. When the main throttle is opened to about 1/2% or more the secondary fuel injector activates. This usually happens while the clutch is being slipped to drive away, typically the engine is running on both fuel injectors before the clutch fully engages. Once the throttle is more than 1/2% open the flow split between the primary and secondary injectors is the same as the OE value of 50%-50% and in sync with each other. I might also mention eliminating the associated vacuum system and secondary cannisters gets rid of a lot of potential failures later on and makes for a clean looking LT5 installation. Also keep in mind eliminating the air injection system may have ramifications in regard to a SMOG check depending which State you reside. I have also eliminated the original Exhaust Manifolds and CATS which would be required in some States for SMOG check success. 2. Eliminating Secondary Throttle Vacuum system. There are two vacuum sources (Electric Vacuum pump and Plenum). Remove everything except the diagnostic vacuum sensor that is located under the ECM. The sensor is connected electrically and the hose nipple open to the atmosphere. Remove all of the vacuum lines, the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir, the solenoid valve and the electric vacuum pump. Use Marc Haibeck CHIP's Marc Haibeck Secondary Vacuum System https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9706b6866f.jpg Diagnostic Vacuum Sensor https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5423302fe4.jpg There are two vacuum check valves under the plenum (one connected to HVAC tank and one connected to Secondary vacuum reservoir). The check valve connected to HVAC tank (via the "Y" cited below for Eliminating Air Induction System) remains in position connected to passenger side source of plenum vacuum and connected to the HVAC vacuum line in the harness to rear of plenum. The check valve connected to the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir and drivers side source of plenum vacuum can be capped off since the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir is eliminated. This is shown in the Eliminating TB coolant system picture below. 3. Cruise Control/HVAC and EVAP Purge System. The Cruize Control/HVAC Vacuum is taken from the passenger side of plenum. From there one vacuum line goes to the Cruize Control under ECM/Brake Cruize Vacuum Release (one line) and the second line goes to the HVAC System through the passenger side Fuel Injector Wire Harness (second line). The Vacuum line to the Cruize Control includes the Cruize Control Vacuum Reservoir under Drivers side Headlight which is left in place. The other vacuum hose connected to the Cruize Control is for the brake pedal cruise cancel function. The EVAP Purge system (1991 ZR1) draws vacuum from under front of Plenum and through the Solenoid valve. When the Solenoid valve is activated, vacuum is directed out the right side under Plenum back along the passenger side frame rail to the Charcoal Canister directly behind the Passenger Side rear wheel. The 1990 ZR1 Charcoal Canister is located under the Drivers Side Headlight. (Vacuum for the 1990 Charcoal Canister is taken from the drivers side front of Plenum as well as a vacuum line from beneath the front of the Plenum. See Vacuum Systems 90' and 91' (Secondary and Cruize/HVAC) Cruize Control and HVAC Vacuum System .....................EVAP Purge Vacuum System (1991) with Solenoid https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...850811cde3.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8fe3ccc7ad.jpg Marc and Pete suggested to eliminate the EVAP Purge circuit completely and capping off that vacuum source under front of plenum. I just replaced my charcoal canister and Marc says he does not address that removal in the chip as it has no effect. I left that associated vacuum and electrical connection including the Evap Purge solenoid in place under the plenum. This discussion and photo is for a 1991 which has the Charcoal Canister just to the rear of the passenger side rear wheel. The 1990 has the charcoal canister under the drivers side head light so the Vacuum Connections for Charcoal Canister are different as well as the vacuum lines which for the 1990 you will not find the large loop for charcoal canister under the Plenum. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d3b4633799.jpg 4. Eliminating Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system. Install 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plugs (21/64 or 11/32 drill) two each side of Plenum (Two each TB Coolant and Injector Housing (IH) Coolant) as shown (The associated two IH coolant ports in the IH should also be plugged on each side). Total six coolant ports plugged One each side TB, One each side Plenum, One each side Injector Housing. If you want to eliminate TB Coolant without it appearing TB Coolant is eliminated......see Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking Photo by Ccmano https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7447c20265.jpg See Summit Racing for Aluminum Pipe Plugs. When you install the plugs.....keep trying the plugs as you tap to make sure the final installation is about flush or out 1/16 inch and use Permatex on the plugs.. The Injector Housing Plug must be FLUSH however. Remove TB Coolant hose and tubing left and right side of plenum and plug hose return to coolant tank passenger side See Brass Cap just above the "T" on Passenger Side. Initial Coolant Fill may be somewhat affected by the TB Coolant Elimination (see item #4 Initial Coolant Fill). The "T" connects the top of the radiator Air Vent, TB Coolant Return, and Coolant Reservoir in front of Passenger side. With the TB Coolant Return Blocked, what is left is a coolant line from the Radiator Air Vent to the Passenger Side Coolant Reservoir. See (Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump) for Detailed New Coolant Filling Trick. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...96e55631d3.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...86dcd554dd.jpg A brass nipple that fits tight inside the rubber hose with a male 1/4 inch pipe thread and a 1/4 inch Brass pipe thread cap (female thread) ;) I left about 2 or 3 inches of rubber hose above the "T" that connects (did connect) the TB vent, Radiator top vent, and Coolant surge container in front of passenger side (the highest point in the LT5 Coolant System). Note 1: The TB coolant path back to the passenger side overflow tank does provide a path for air and potential air lock to return to that passenger side tank during initial coolant fill. However, the Plenum to TB coolant hose sits only an inch or so above the IH coolant manifolds on the passenger side so the benefit of using that path to bleed air vice the top of the coolant manifolds to the radiator is very small. Marc has decided to bypass the TB coolant (vice eliminate all TB coolant hoses) leaving that coolant path back to the passenger side overflow tank in place to assure issues would not arrise on rebuilds for those unaware of coolant initial filling and water pump potential air locks. Note 2: Air Pockets as a result of TB Coolant Elimination Tricks. See (Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump) for Detailed New Coolant Filling Trick. The 5th plug (Plenum Vacuum) is for Plenum Vacuum drivers side only which was connected to the vacuum reservoir. The tubing can be removed and a 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plug inserted exactly like the plenum coolant plugs. a. When you run the tap....keep checking the pipe plug for depth so you end up tight and flush. b. When you run the Drill.......remember you are in ALUMINUM so go very easy and slow!!! (you can do it without a drill press). c. Use a bit of Permatex gasket sealer or Teflon tape on the pipe plugs. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...69eb7c630f.jpg 5. Eliminating Air Injection system. The Air Injection System including the Air Pump has been eliminated (especially for those who are installing Headers). Associated with the Air Injection system is one vacuum line on the drivers side fender skirt above the shock tower. I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" in front of "T" about 3 inches and plugged the "Y" back in where the "T" was. This modification maintains the Cruise Control Vacuum and the associated Vacuum to the Cruise Control Vacuum Reservoir under the Drivers Side Headlight. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a9a7cebc16.png 6. Eliminating Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Pipe and added Oil Catch Can. See Details for Oil Catch Can Installation The PCV pipe along the plenum drivers side from PCV valve at rear of Plenum to Plenum Vacuum at front of Plenum eliminated. Stainless steel braided hose is used from the PCV valve at rear of plenum to Oil Catch Can (LT5 Added Systems) and then on to the Plenum Vacuum. The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The MAP sensor (located at rear of plenum) is connected to the rear of plenum (Vacuum source). 7. Eliminating Stock Exhaust (installing SW Headers). SW Offroad Headers. As you know it is difficult to install headers with LT5 in the ZR1. With engine out I was able to install 14 of the 16 header bolts with locks (on each Header) in just a few minutes. Installing the the LT5 with Headers Installed is easy if the LT5 is tilted to the rear considerably. The LT5 has to be prevented from rolling from side to side. Leave the Fuel Rails, Plenum, and Bell Housing OFF untill after the LT5 is installed in the ZR1. 1. You definitely need a load leveler (to UNLEVEL or tilt the LT5 to the rear). 2. You CANNOT use the standard lift eyes for the LT5 because as you load UNLEVEL (Tilt engine to the rear) the engine rotates if you lift LT5 on diagonals. 3. You have to lift with nylon straps around Flywheel (rear) and around Harmonic Balancer (front). Actually around more stuff on front. 4. You have to remove the A/C Temperature sensor cover (passenger side firewall) and Wiper Motor (Drivers side firewall). See How to Replace the Wiper Motor. 5. You DO NOT have to remove the hood and the ZR1 can sit on the level. A/C Temp Sensor........................Wiper Motor.............Do NOT use standard Lift Eyes installing LT5 with Headers https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2023479141.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6bd5f35fe5.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c8d20201b3.jpg Installing Headers Installing Engine In ZR1 Lifting The LT5 Last UPDATE of post 146 Dec, 2017 |
ZR1 Added Systems
Tech Info - ZR1 Added Systems
Note the Gun Metal Oil Cap on passenger side Ebay Aluminum billet oil cap (fits 90' & 91' LT5 & L98) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c1c426af5e.jpg 1. Reground Camshafts and ....................2. Oil Pressure Sensor Modification. Billet Aluminum Camshaft Retainers............The oil pressure sensor has been modified LT5 Camshaft Specifications........................by adding a brass T fitting which can also ........................................ ........................be used to attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ce6d6f5df9.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...87316d7642.jpg 3. 91' ZR1 (LT5) Debree Screen. Use 1/8 inch steel pop rivets with washers backside of air deflector and on front of screen (approximately 5/16 inch mesh). Drill 1/8 inch holes in the rubberized air deflector. Use cable ties on top side of screen. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...89b4d44ae9.jpg 4. Differential case drain installation Installed an aftermarket Differential Case Drain Plug for easy fluid change. The kit is available from Corvette Central Differential Drain Plug Kit https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f25f57e2fb.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...eb96344c35.jpg I placed the Differential Drain Plug just on the Drivers Side of what I call the Molding Seam in the Center of the Flange Thickness. The kit provides a template that puts the hole just left of the center bolt in the valley of the differential. Original Photos provided by Scrrem with Red notes added. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4dff138525.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0ddf7cd22a.jpg The tap size is 1/8-27 pipe and it installs easily with drill (11/32) and tap supplied in the kit. I drilled the bottom flange just under the ring gear and let the old fluid drain (which drained in about 10 minutes). I then tapped the drilled hole for the 1/8 inch allen pipe plug. When you tap the hole, try the pipe plug several times as you tap so you end up with the pipe plug out maybe 1/16 inch when tight . Use Permatex on the Aluminum or Brass 1/8 inch Allen Pipe Drain Plug. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...914bf0d3f7.jpg I pumped in a pint of Mobile 1 75W-90 and let that drain cleaning out a lot of old oil and any tap debris. 1/8 inch Aluminum Allen Head NPT pipe plugs I inserted the 1/8 inch allen pipe plug and pumped in a bit over 3 pints of Mobile 1 75W-90 into the fill port on the North side of the differential (Z facing West) The Differential case can be COMPLETELY drained and flushed with new oil using this method as compared to trying to suck out the old oil. 5. Oil Catch Can has been added. See Details for Oil Catch Can Installation -=Jeff=- was one of the first I think Oil Catch Can Photo The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected using SS braided hose to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The Oil Catch Can is located on the drivers side inside wheel well (using a small channel ground and drilled to conform to the inside fender well as a spacer). The Oil Catch Can used here is the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can (I use wing nuts for quick Catch Can Maintenance) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8af0226b73.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c98f07f727.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4e8b581402.jpg In addition to the Oil Catch Can, a new PCV dual top connector has been added replacing the old connector. You can see the size of the PCV Connector openings (Jerry's new on left and old on right in each photo). Replacing these with Jerry's NEW PCV top connector (on left in each photo) is a must :thumbs: Jerry's Dual PCV Valve Connector Old PCV Valve Connector on right........................................ .New PCV Valve Connector on left https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...40b5ca2040.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...178a0f5d8d.jpg 6. SS Air Box. See Stainless Steel Air Box and Air Filter (L98 and LT5) For installation details including the proper K&N Air Filter. 7. Starter Relay Tricks Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, and Plugs Tricks See Item #2 Electrical Ground Connections and Installing Starter Relay 60 / 80 AMP RELAY SPDT SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW NEW 654 Installed under ECM and in slot between brake booster and fire wall (perfect place for location of Relay). Wiring modified a bit to assure Pin #87a is not hot at any time. Pin #30: Purple wire to starter (use 3/8 inch connector on relay). Pin #87: Red wire battery positive 12v use 3/8 inch connector on relay (connected to battery positive multiple connection post). Pin #86: Battery ground (1/4 inch connector on relay connected to ground where battery 12 gauge wire grounded). Pin #85: Purple wire from ECM use 1/4 inch connector on relay (Red wire on early 1990 ZR-1). Pin #87a: Not hot at any time and not used. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2a3f22c3a0.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...65bcd9d469.jpg Insert a short 1/2 inch long section of plastic hose over the center connector on the Relay which is NOT used in this application. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f586d7a421.jpg 8. Billet Aluminum Alternator Pulley (MCH-208) The MCH-208 is the same Diameter as the Stock Pulley. Actually the MCH-208 is just a tad larger diameter. The Offset of the MCH-208 is identical to the Stock Pulley. The Stock Pulley has a removable Offset Collar which is NOT used in the installation of the Aluminum Pulley. This Pulley can be installed without removing anything including the Serpentine Belt (except the Original Alternator Pulley). Look for MCH 208 on Summit Racing MCH-208 or Ebay MCH-208 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a4811512fa.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...803af30fd5.jpg Oh.....by the way.....I just invented a New Way to install the Serpentine Belt......Remove the Alternator Pulley (takes 1 minute) and position NEW Alternator Pulley inside Serpentine Belt and lift up the Alternator Pulley and Serpentine Belt with Belt Tensioner compressed (Keep Serpentine Belt aligned with Belt Tensioner Pulley). Now just slip the Alternator Pulley onto the shaft (very easy to do and plenty of play) and tighten up the 15/16 inch Alternator Pulley Nut. :D Lastly......install the Aluminum Alternator Pulley Cap with the three Allen Head Bolts provided with just a little torque as they are threaded into Aluminum. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4963bb500a.jpg All Aluminum Alternator Pulley 9. Billet Aluminum Power Steering Pump Pulley https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9b763b2b69.jpg 10. Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9a6cf44861.jpg Last UPDATE of post 147 May, 2022 |
Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can Installation Details
Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can Installation Details.
1. General. See for background information LT5 PCV System The PCV hose connected under front of plenum (Vacuum source) is connected using SS braided hose to an Oil Catch Can external to the engine which Oil Catch Can is connected using SS braided hose to the dual PVC valves hard line located at the rear of the plenum. The Oil Catch Can is located on the drivers side inside wheel well (using a small channel ground and drilled to conform to the inside fender well as a spacer). The Oil Catch Can used here is the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can (I use wing nuts for quick Catch Can Maintenance) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ae5c17571c.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c0a739177.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7b74f22ebc.jpg 2. Plenum Connections. The Oil Catch Can is attached to the Plenum PCV Vacuum port connector shown (the 12 inch SS Braided hose with hose clamp). The fuel tank EVAP purge system goes through the electrical switch control under the plenum (shown) and out the passenger side back under the passenger side frame rail on a 91' having the Charcoal Canister on the passenger side behind the rear tire. The 90' Purge Connection comes straight out and is connected to the Charcoal Canister located under the drivers side Headlight. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...776aad527e.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b3777f15d7.jpg 3. Oil Catch Can Parts. The two hose fittings are (Hose End, Swivel, 90 Degree, 6 AN Hose to Male 1/4 in. NPT, Aluminum, Nickel) and the 1/4 NPT is screwed into the Oil Catch Can 1/4 inch NPT threaded holes Swivel, 90 Degree, 6 AN Hose to Male 1/4 in. NPT On the other end of the SS Braided hose install 6 AN Straight Hose End which fits into a 5/16 short rubber hose connected to the Plenum PCV fitting. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0e46c8605f.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...95b0d60e9f.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e504528c1b.jpg The hose is 6-AN Summit Racing SS Braided hose 6 AN SS Braided Hose. The Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can does not come with the fittings cited herein. Replace the fittings of the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can with the two SS 90 deg 6 AN to Male 1/4 NPT pipe fittings cited herein. The short SS Braided Hose section connected to the Plenum PCV vacuum is 12 inches long. The longer SS Braided Hose section connected to the PCV connector is 24 inches long. A brass 5/16 inch diameter nipple is plugged into the black PCV stock connector shown. The other end of the 5/16 inch diameter nipple is plugged into the SS 6-AN hose with hose clamp (as shown). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...076b869c04.jpg 4. Mounting of Oil Catch Can to Fender. The Oil Catch Can is mounted on the Drivers side Fender using two Allen Head 8mm x 1.25 bolts (1-1/4 inch long) with Wing Nuts and washers on the outside of the fender well. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8c0a739177.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8ca8985056.jpg The bracket adapter (to which the Oil Catch Can Hanger is mounted) is made from a 1-1/2 x 1/2 inch channel 5-1/2 inches long with the flanges ground to fit contour of inside of fender well. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...09cbed7952.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e059255454.jpg 5. Cruise Control and EVAP Purge System. The Cruize Control Vacuum is taken from the passenger side of plenum. From there one vacuum line goes to the cruize control under ECM (one line) and the second line goes to the cruize control switch on steeringwheel column (second line). The EVAP Purge system draws vacuum from under front of Plenum and through the Solenoid valve. When the Solenoid valve is activated, vacuum is directed out the right side under Plenum back along the passenger side frame rail to the fuel tank. Cruize Control Vacuum System ...................................EVAP Purge Vacuum System with Solenoid https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a849be6ee1.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8fe3ccc7ad.jpg Last UPDATE of post 148 Aug, 2019 |
Engine with bottom end intact
Engine with bottom end intact
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...55d975a6b0.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6a810415e3.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d4c26b9276.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ffbdc628d5.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...130f5a6677.jpg Last UPDATE of post 149 Dec, 2017 |
How to Remove Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Torx-30 Bolts
How to Remove Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Torx-30 Bolts
This Procedure can be used with Injector Housings removed or NOT removed from the Engine. Apply Heat to each area of the Injector Housing/Coolant Manifold for each bolt separately. I use Acetylene Torch. Just a bit of heat around the area and try the bolt....then a bit more heat and try bolt again. Apply HEAT to the Coolant Manifold area for each bolt in addition to the Injector Housing bolt threaded area because many times the resistance to torque is the fact the length of bolt through the Coolant Manifold is frozen with corrosion within the Coolant Manifold bolt hole. After each bolt is removed, you may use a paper towel dipped in cool water to get the area just heated cooled down quickly before heating up the area for the next bolt. Then on to next bolt. The secret to removing the Torx-30 x 50mm bolts is to apply torque WITHOUT STRIPPING the Torx. Never Strip the Torx. Just apply torque on the Torx-30 and keep upping the heat and do it quickly so you do not Heat up the Whole Injector Housing Gasket to Head too much. Then......follow up with a 6mm x 1.00 tap into the Injector Housing for each of the Torx-30 bolts. I always replace he original (often corroded bolts) with Jerry's Allen Head Coolant Outlet Pipe Bolts Jerry also has these bolts in Stainless Steel Allen Head. Last UPDATE of post 150 Sep, 2014 |
Starter Rebuild
1. Starter Contacts.
I had a NO START condition on a 90' and after I towed it for a start....got home and it fired right up. I would have liked to hot wire the starter (purple wire) when that happens to see if it is the starter or starter ground circuit. Or check that purple wire for 12 volts when I turn the switch to start. I lean toward ground circuit or sticky starter solenoid. Another indication would be if when you turn the ignition key to start do the lights dim for example indicating a current draw to the starter solenoid/starter. If the solenoid does not move (no clicking indicating the Starter Solenoid moved) as in my case then a sticky Solenoid or Solenoid Ground Connection. If the Solenoid clicked/moved...then bad Solenoid contacts or bad connection Battery cable (Positive) to starter/battery or bad ground (Negative) engine to battery. The moving Solenoid contacts can be easily wire brushed and the fixed contacts can be easily shined up with emery cloth. Also use a bit of WD-40 on the plunger when re-installing. Installed a relay in the start circuit of the 90' identical to what I have on the 91'. This is one of those intermittent issues and does sound like poor electrical connections in either the Starter Negative Connections or Starter Positive Connections. A poor condition electrical circuit to and through the Solenoid causing a weak magnetic field which moves the plunger will result in poor contact of the main contacts which will result in lower voltage to the main starter circuit. Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...795b5c8814.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ec37daca0.jpg The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo. Also use a bit of emery cloth on the two fixed contacts. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...587cc3ed93.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...94c07738b0.jpg 2. Complete Starter Rebuild. Photo provided by mgbrv8 Complete starter rebuild by mgbrv8 (Dave) Check the two bearings on each end of the Armature for roughness by spinning with your fingers. If any roughness, replace with new bearings (pulling the bearings with a small bearing puller). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cb3dae96eb.jpg Last UPDATE of post 151 Dec, 2017 |
Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Cylinder
1. Removing Clutch Slave Cylinder.
I was under my 90' most of the day fooling around with the Slave and Master Clutch Cylinder....I had an extra Slave and Master Cylinder but bleeding that ^&^*^&*%^$&#((*&(....well you get the picture. I just ordered a NEW Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder from Jerry. It turns out I could remove the two nuts on the Slave Cylinder and slip it out from the studs and down (the hard line will slip between the bell housing and drivers tunnel). The hard line has a rubber hose section about 12-18 inches from the hard line (a 12 inch more or less section of rubber hose between two hard lines). This rubber hose section allows the Slave Cylinder movement flexibility which allowed me to move the Slave Cylinder down below the exhaust pipe. I used a 13mm open end on the tube connection on the Slave Cylinder. Loosen that connection and remove the tubing from the Slave Cylinder. Now it you are saying the New Slave Cylinder is a bit different and cannot be installed as easy as the old Slave Cylinder was removed.....let me know as I will run into this issue myself next Tue when I receive the New Master Cylinder and New Slave Cylinder from Jerry :handshak: 2. Bleeding Clutch Master/Slave. First tighten the fitting on top of Clutch Slave Cylinder so steel line us parallel with Slave Cylinder. Loosen bleeder. Depress Slave Cylinder shaft and insert into bell housing such that shaft us centered in bell housing port then depress Slave cylinder shaft further to install nuts on Slave Cylinder studs. Now.......fill (2/3 full) Master Cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 or DOT 4. As someone pumps clutch, open bleeder on Slave Cylinder each pump untill you get fluid. Close Bleeder. Continue to pump clutch holding 5 sec each time and release for 5 seconds. You will see some bubbles each release in Master Cylinder Reservoir. Continue untill you have Clutch release (keep Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir 2/3 full at all times). Fill Master Cylinder Reservoir 3/4 full as Clutch Slave will continue to self bleed as you drive. Last UPDATE of post 152 Nov, 2014 |
Spark Plug Wire Separators
Billet Aluminum Wire Separators with ALL Stainless steel Attachments.
A. Complete Sets of Spark Plug Wire Separators. 1. 1/2 x 1/4 8-18 SS washer (washer shown before and after modifications) from Ebay. 2. I think m3 x 1-1/4 2.5mm allen head SS machine screw (MACS in South Dakota). 3. Black Plastic (4 wire) Wire Separators from Summit Racing Ignition Wire Looms and Separators 4. Wire Separators (Billet Aluminum) from Ebay. 5. I show a SS Allenhead Plenum Bolt I got from Jerry. B. Fabrication of the Wire Separator Attachments. I drilled the 1/4 inch hole in the washer out to 5/16 inch. I used a cut off grinder and bench grinder to form the SS Tab from the larger SS Washer. I drilled the smaller hole (5/32 inch) in the SS Tab made from the washer to take the m3 SS Allen Head Machine Screw. In the final design a bit more distance between the m3 SS Allen Head Machine Screw and the Plenum Bolt (Torx or SS Allen Head). I then inserted the m3 SS Allen Head Machine Screw into the SS Tab made from the SS Washer. I then pushed the SS Allen Head Machine Screw into the Black Plastic 4 wire Separator so the Black Plastic Wire Separator was tight up against the SS Tab. It turns out that the m3 SS Allen Head Machine Screw takes a 2.5 mm Allen Head Key which is the same size key required by the Billet Aluminum Wire Separators. Oh.....we are talking nickel and dime for the parts shown. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6298c556b9.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...36f8290cf0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2015924556.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c6cbdd5663.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c6cbdd5663.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a34102b43d.jpg Last UPDATE of post 153 Dec, 2017 |
The Battery Disconnect Switch and Having an Operational Secondary Full Power Switch
1. Battery Disconnect Switch.
The Battery Disconnect Switch comes as close as one can get to "Maintaining The Battery at its Optimum Charge". I do loose Radio Presets but only use the CD anyway. SEE Discussion Use of Battery Disconnect Switch There is an additional ADVANTAGE not mentioned (I think)......Disconnecting the Battery Erases Codes that do not seem to reappear nearly as often if at all. When Battery Reconnected and the Engine Started, the Idle functioned exactly as before Settling into the 850 range within about 5 seconds of starting after an initial Higher Idle Speed. So the ECM definitely remembered that. The CHIP Information is NEVER Erased. Try the Battery Disconnect....you might like it :D I have tried Battery Tenders and do not like them as I do NOT like having to plug them into an outlet or having to park the ZR1 near an outlet. Or worse having to route an extension cord around other equipment and having to keep Main Power on in the Shed/Garage just to support a Battery Tender. I also do not like Unattended Electrical Power plugged into the ZR1 just in case of a Short in any particular Component or electrical corrosion of that component because it is in a LONG TERM HOT Unattended condition. ALSO....what better Anti Theft than to have your hood locked and Battery Disconnected. With the Battery Disconnect you can Disconnect your Battery as often as you like without wearing out the Original Battery Negative Terminal on either the Battery or on the Negative Cable Connector. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...edc48f56b5.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...257bf2b54c.jpg And the Battery Disconnect Switch is INEXPENSIVE with FREE shipping to your door :thumbs: Side Mount Battery Disconnect Switch 2. An Operational Full Power Swtich. I have one ZR-1 with secondaries removed and three ZR-1s with secondaries functioning perfectly. Having the ZR-1 Full Power Switch is an additional unique capability of the LT5 System. See Item #2 CMHSL LED, Full Power Key and Alternator Pulley See Power Key Rebuild TIPS The TRICK to a fun to have secondary system is a vacuum system with no leaks. The TRICK to diagnosing/fixing/having a vacuum system with no leaks is Blocked TB Coolant at the Injector Housings. Eliminated IH Housing and Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system Tricks With TB Coolant blocked you do not need any sealant on the Plenum Gasket and Plenum Removal is essentially a ten minute no mess maintenance function. Removing Plenum (including the 10 minute Plenum Removal) Most Importantly, Removing the Plenum with TB Coolant Blocked will not involve Coolant in any regard (removal or filling Coolant). Once the Plenum is Removed vacuum leaks can easily be found and corrected. Checking for Vacuum Leaks TIPS But....If you must Eliminated Secondary Throttles/shafts Tricks Last UPDATE of post 154 Dec, 2017 |
Six things I ALWAYS do on any LT5.
Six things I ALWAYS do on any LT5.
1. Pull Plenum and BLOCK TB Coolant. Eliminated IH Housing and Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system Tricks Removing Plenum (including the 10 minute Plenum Removal) 2. Check for Vacuum leaks and recondition/clean the area under the Plenum including the Valley Drain. Finding A Vacuum Leak 3. Pull Starter and recondition Starter Solenoid and Starter. Starter Rebuild The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...795b5c8814.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ec37daca0.jpg The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo. Also use a bit of emery cloth on the two fixed contacts. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...587cc3ed93.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...94c07738b0.jpg If you want to go further with the starter rebuild, check the two bearings on each end of the Armature for roughness. Photo provided by mgbrv8 Complete starter rebuild by mgbrv8 (Dave) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cb3dae96eb.jpg Check the two bearings on each end of the Armature for roughness by spinning with your fingers. If any roughness, replace with new bearings (pulling the bearings with a small bearing puller). 4. Install Starter Relay. Starter, Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks Electrical Ground Connections and Installing Starter Relay 5. Install Jerry's New PCV Hoses, Connectors and Grommets. I installed Jerry's New Dual PCV Connectors on ALL engines getting rid of all the Clap Trap Nylon Ties and Hose Clamps to keep the Old (hardened Rubber) Dual PCV connectors from slipping off the connectors or leaking Highly Recommended :thumbs: Right up near Top Of List with Blocking TB Coolant at each Injector Housing. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0e6612cb51.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6896902bc1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...372ce0c774.jpg 6. Change Plug Wire Bracket Location from IH to Plenum. Along with the PCV Upgrades is the raised Plug Wires from Injector Housing Bolt to Plenum Bolt on ALL engines. This keeps the plug wires from riding on the cam covers. This also allows the Dual PCV Connector to be attached in front of and at the same location as the Plug Wires and above the Cam Covers. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...51ea900d09.jpg Just have to say this one more time. These ZR-1s are over 20 years old and many have not had the Injectors replaced, Starter Reconditioned, or even the Plenum removed. Time for some Maintenance. And it only takes three days......one day to remove Plenum and clean up area under Plenum, One day to relax and think when engine is drying out from HOT Pressure Wash, One day to put it all back together with new Plenum Gasket (and some other stuff) from Jerry . Minimum Restoration of a 1990 ZR-1 You will see in this Minimum Restoration that TB coolant appears intact but actually is blocked from both directions (see item #18.6). Last UPDATE of post 155 Dec, 2017 |
Replacing the Serpentine Belt
Replacing the Serpentine Belt
I use a 1/2 inch long flex handle socket https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...038c4133eb.jpg You may have to wedge the handle with wood at the air horn and you may have to reach down and rotate the belt tensioner just a tad to get the 1/2 inch socket inserted. Slip the new belt on edge between Harmonic Balancer and frame rail first using a wooden or similar yard stick to poke the belt between the tight space on edge. Then guide belt up around Power steering pulley, over AC with a tight fit under Air Horn (Rubber Air Intake bellows removed), then down under Water Pump Pulley, then loop up and held near Alternator. The other end pulled up from Harmonic Balancer after it is matched rib for rib on the Harmonic Balancer. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...83c57f9248.jpg Pass the back side of belt over Belt Tensioner Pulley. Now.......with 1/2 inch socket inserted, open Belt Tensioner and hold tight the belt loop to keep belt in place groove for groove on the Power Steering, AC, and Harmonic Balancer Pulleys. With pulleys matched grove for grove (Power Steering, AC, Harmonic Balancer), Slip Belt loop over Alternator Pulley and match groove for groove. Release Belt Tensioner and assure there is approximately 1/2 inch between the inside of the belts at the Belt Tensioner. If you cannot slip the belt over the Alternator Pulley with all grooves on the pulleys mentioned matched groove for groove and if there is not the approximately 1/2 inch gap between inside of belt and inside of belt at the belt tensioner, maybe check belt length. You can check belt length by running a tape measure on the outside of the belt (with the belt) as you run the belt and tape measure through your fingers. Last UPDATE of post 156 Dec, 2017 |
LT5 Engine Cooling Issues on Hot Days
LT5 Engine Cooling Issues on Hot Days
I am talking 100+ deg F days and stop and go traffic or long stop lights in succession. Before reading further, the Coolant Flow and Water Pump Flow Rates vrs Engine RPM is a BIG Factor. See Item#2D Experiment #4 HVAC Temperature Display And Radiator Efficiency Test Runs I like my LT5 running around 190 deg F to 200 deg F (maybe 215 deg F on HOT 100+ deg F days) for condensation and best performance. I use the Haibeck LT5 Performance Chips in ALL ZR-1s which turn Fans ON at 205 deg F and OFF at 200 deg F. Now also keep in mind you are pulling air through a three stack set up including the AC condenser, Oil Cooler, and Radiator. That is where the pusher fan concept will help in stop and go traffic or at stop lights if you want to go that route. I think Daryll (AKA Goldcylon) experimented with higher flow rate dual fans which would also help keep LT5 Coolant temperatures down on HOT days. A. Now where I think concepts are over blown............. The steady state of the coolant flow is identical at HOT ambient temperatures (100+ deg F) no matter when the fans first came on and no matter when the thermostat first opened. (kind of like using lighter weight front of engine pulleys or lighter weight flywheels where the hp gain is only on rotational acceleration and not on the steady state of engine RPM). Using 165 deg F or anything less than 180 deg F thermostats is a bit of a waste and a negative on colder days. A 180 deg F and a 165 deg F thermostat are both fully open at the LT5 operational temperatures I am seeking of 190 deg F - 200 deg F (maybe 215 deg F on HOT 100+ deg F days). Yes you may if other modifications allow it on 100 deg F days drive around at 175 deg F and approach a stop and go situation with a cooler engine buying you some time at the stop and go. But that is about the only difference. Same goes with turning fans on at lower temperatures than 205 deg F. I do not want to run around on cooler days with the fans always running when they do not have to in view of my 180 deg F thermostat and in view of the 190 deg F - 200 deg F LT5 temperatures I am seeking (maybe 215 deg F on HOT 100+ deg F days). B. What to do to keep the LT5 Cooler in Stop and Go or Long Stop Lights on HOT (100+ deg F) days.................. So....if you want to get serious ........do all the normal maintenance like clean radiator, oil cooler, and AC condenser of trash (keep the stack clean and that includes keep the stacks clean of any oil). If you want additional LT5 performance get yourself one of the Haibeck LT5 Performance Chips which turn Fans ON at 205 deg F and OFF at 200 deg F. If you really want to get serious......install an auxiliary electric pusher fan or higher flow rate dual fans. And/or install an Aluminum After Market Radiator that offers greater cooling effect with the same coolant flow rate (but at the same time may be a bit more restrictive on the air flow rate). If you really really want to get serious.....remove the oil cooler and AC condener. But when I am that serious :D I just turn AC off and if I have to .....turn the engine off. C. Underdrive and Overdrive Water Pump Pulleys as they relate to Engine Cooling............... Oh.....just to complete this little discussion I am having :D Using a larger diameter water pump pulley (Underdrive) may buy you some engine cooling at higher RPMs if you are in the 6000-7000 rpm zone for very long where the water pump may be cavitating at that high rpms with a standard diameter water pump pulley. On the other hand, using a smaller diameter water pump pulley (Overdrive) may buy you some engine cooling at lower rpms in stop and go traffic where the coolant flow rate is normally low with a standard diameter water pump pulley. D. Tricks to Cool the LT5 in Stop and go traffic on HOT (100+ deg F Days). It is Ambient Temperatures of 100+ deg F that cause the LT5 Hot issues. It becomes obvious that Air Flow is the culprit in that once the ZR-1 is moving at say 20-30 mph the Coolant temperatures quickly get back in the 200 - 210 deg F range. The LT5 engine is rapidly cooled from 215+ deg F (higher if I did not turn off AC) with the ZR-1 not moving on 100+ deg F days once the Dynamic Air Flow is created by moving forward at 20-30 mph. So the additional Air Flow required to do that (keep the engine in the 200 deg F - 210 deg F Range on a 100+ deg F day) is obviously that Air Flow hitting the front of the ZR-1 at 20-30 mph. I am thinking one can get higher pressurized Air Flow with a Pusher Fan within say 1/4 inch of the front of the ZR-1 Cooling Stack pushing Air through that stack. 1. The First Trick then since we can assume the Tony Davila Pusher Fan Solution works is to refine that solution such that the fix for a temporary LT5 HOT situation on a HOT day does not interfere with the normal Cooling of the ZR-1 Cooling Stack using only Stock Fans. 2. The Second Trick would be to operate that Pusher Fan(s) only when in stop and go traffic on a HOT day using a simplified Relay that can be activate remotely. The Relay wired directly from the battery to the Push Fan. No Modifications to ANY existing Electrical wiring or Electronics. This would make for a very simple and inexpensive Solution to an otherwise complicated problem ;) 12V 15A Relay Remote Control Kit DC Connector 15 amp Heavy Duty http://www.ebay.com/itm/Logisys-RM02-12V-15A-Relay-Remote-Control-Kit-DC-Connector-15-amp-Heavy-Duty-/380427545278?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58933faabe" 3. The third Trick is to identify and control how much Air (using Stock Dual Fans or Stock Dual Fans with an Auxiliary Pusher Fan) Passes Through the AC Condenser, Oil Cooler, and Radiator rather than go around (through the gap) between the AC Condenser and Oil Cooler.....and through the gap between the Oil Cooler and Radiator. When you turn off the AC, The AC Condenser is not heating up the air passing through. The Oil Cooler is contributing (Oil Temperature Thermostat-Open-203 degree F, Fully open-266 degree F). Engine Lubrication System Functional Discussion 4. Or......install higher flow rate Puller Dual Fans replacing the Stock Puller Fans. But then we have a situation where we are pulling more air 99+% of the time when we do not have to. See LT5 Engine Optimum Operating Temperatures See Primary Cooling Fan Operation Criteria TIPS Last UPDATE of post 157 Jan, 2017 |
LT5 Engine Optimum Operating Temperatures
LT5 Engine Optimum Operating Temperatures
Originally Posted by Paul Workman
(Post 204477)
Well, for starters:
These LT5s are a magnificent engineering achievement. They are kinda rare, parts are expensive, and provide a rare experience not felt in any other Corvettes before or since. And, when operating within their "window" they are nearly "bullet proof". If you operate this or any motor outside the design window, as some always will, you're "off the chart", and serendipity becomes your tutor. (But, NOT on my dime!) I run 180 deg thermostats in ALL ZR-1s. 1. At a coolant temperature of say 190 deg a 160 deg thermostat is open....so is my 180 deg thermostat. So from that point on our coolant system flow rates are identical at the same rpm. And so is the cooling. 2. Using a 160 deg thermostat in cooler weather drops the engine coolant temperature below the designed engine temperature with the 180 deg thermostat. The PVC (at the cooler engine temperatures) is working at less than optimum temperatures as well as your oil and fuel as Paul explained correctly. Also see Defective Stant Thermostats Oh....almost forgot.....my fans come on a bit sooner controlled by Marc Haibeck chip to help with engine temperatures when idling at a traffic light on a hot day. But again....my 180 deg thermostat and the 160 deg thermostat are both open in that condition :D But MUCH MORE as you can see as the LT5 thermostat has several functions LT5 Thermostats The LT5 thermostat sits in two cavities and is located on the outlet side of the radiator. On one end of the thermostat is the first valve [pressure relief) that expands and opens to excessive radiator pressure (but only relative pressure over and above that normal thermal expansion radiator pressure). That valve is in the first cavity which is exposed to coolant outlet flow. In the second cavity is the second thermostat valve (temperature relief) which controls coolant inlet flow depending on engine temperature. GM found at high rpm and high coolant flow, excessive pressure in the radiator, due to it's restriction, would blow the rubber seals between the side tanks and the core. GM did not want to design a specific LT5 radiator, so the solution was the radiator bypass which opens when the pressure differential across the radiator reaches a certain level. This bypass valve is part of the thermostat and, when open, allows coolant to recirculate within the engine. LT5 Coolant System Discussion ZR1 provided this photo in the LT5 Coolant System Discussion :thumbs: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...630b8a4754.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...578a7d00ac.jpg Lets simplify......the discussion of the 160 deg thermostat cooling better than the 180 deg thermostat. 1. Let us say we have identical radiators, identical rpm, steady state coolant temperature, and both fans on and we are cruising at same speed. 2. Lets say coolant temperature is 190 deg in both your Z and my Z given everything identical in item #1. 3. Your 160 deg thermostat is full open with same flow rate as fully open 180 deg thermostat. 4. My 180 deg thermostat is full open with same flow rate as fully open 160 deg thermostat. 5. In other words...we both have been driving our Zs for say at least 30 minutes and have reached a steady coolant state. Now......lets say the day gets hotter. The coolant temperatures should rise the same in both your Z and my Z given EVERYTHING else is the same :p If it gets REAL HOT......both our Zs coolant will reach 230 deg at the same time. The maximum temperature reached (given it is over 190 deg) will be no different for you than me even though you have a 160 deg thermostat and I have a 180 deg thermostat. I am saying that my thermostat just maintains a minimum temperature higher than yours. I am also saying your thermostat does not maintain a lower higher temperature than mine. Once both thermostats are fully open, the coolant temperatures are controlled by everything else mentioned in item #1 and not the thermostats (yours or mine). Same goes for fans......once your fan is on and my fan which may be on at lower temperatures is on.......we have identical radiator cooling no matter how hot it gets outside. Now if we change radiators.....you run stock radiator and I run Ron Davis....DIFFERENT STORY as I have greater dissipation of heat than you at all rpms (water pump speed dependent) and ZR-1 speeds (air flow dependent). See LT5 Engine Cooling Issues on Hot Days See LT5 Engine Optimum Operating Temperatures See Primary Cooling Fan Operation Criteria TIPS Last UPDATE of post 158 Dec, 2017 |
Checking Camshaft Timing Engine In Car
I would say impossible to do Camshaft Timing with engine in car but it is possible to CHECK Camshaft Timing Engine In Car. Of several 90's I have checked, none required Camshaft Timing as my LT5 engine In Car Inspection of Timing was within a couple degrees for each Camshaft.
Checking your Camshaft Timing Engine IN Car You have to remove Cam Covers engine in car...then set up to determine or assume the current TDC timing Marks on the Harmonic Balancer are correct. You can get close without pins in front camshaft retainers just by using a flashlight observing the pin hole in the camshaft journals alignment with the holes in the camshaft front retainers. If you want to make sure of the TDC marks on the Harmonic Balancer, you can install a dial gauge to determine when piston #1 is TDC to determine TDC easy enough engine in car and can then mark harmonic balancer and use degree tab bracket easy enough engine in car. The Tab has marks 25 deg Before and 5 deg After TDC. See Item #2 Camshaft Timing https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3eade4f61d.jpg You can check by rotating engine (with chain tensioners still keeping chains tight) by visual inspection in pinning holes which can be done engine in car easily. If you mess around too long especially reversing the rotation of the crankshaft, the Timing Chains will loose their hydraulic chain tensioner tension. I set the pins in the Venier Plate slot such that the camshaft sprockets are rotated against the half moon on the camshaft (clockwise looking at front of engine) which prevents additional movement of sprockets on camshaft under any conditions. This is within 1.6 degrees of where I want the timing. See item #5c and #7a of LT5 Camshaft Timing Additional Tricks http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif CAMSHAFT TIMING USING DEGREE WHEEL Camshaft timing TIPS Dial gage holder TIPS LT5 Camshaft Specifications and Camshaft Timing Tricks Tech Info - LT5 Summary of Camshaft Timing from Start to Finish Tech Info - LT5 Timing Diagrams Tech Info - LT5 Camshaft Timing and Timing Chain Calculations Setting/Installing the Chain Tensioners and Timing Chain Tricks Camshaft timing optimum deg Cam timing First attempt at camshaft timing Last UPDATE of post 159 Dec, 2017 |
PCV Upgrades
I installed Jerry's New Dual PCV Connectors on ALL engines getting rid of all the Clap Trap Nylon Ties and Hose Clamps to keep the Old (hardened Rubber) Dual PCV connectors from slipping off the connectors or leaking Highly Recommended :thumbs:
Right up near Top Of List with Blocking TB Coolant at each Injector Housing. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0e6612cb51.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dcbf140d50.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...372ce0c774.jpg Along with the PCV Upgrades is the raised Plug Wires from Injector Housing Bolt to Plenum Bolt on ALL engines. This allows the Dual PCV Connector to be attached in front of and at the same location as the Plug Wires and above the Cam Covers. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...51ea900d09.jpg Last UPDATE of post 160 Dec, 2017 |
Secondary Chain Guide Rattle and the Chain Tensioners
Secondary Chain Guide Rattle and the Chain Tensioners
http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif LH and RH Chain Tensioners are completely different including the Housing. Unset LH chain tensioner..........................Unset/set RH chain tensioner (Photo by Craig) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0d899904dc.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...beee660d96.jpg LH Chain Tensioner Housing and RH Chain Tensioner Housing with Chain Tensioners installed (Photo provided by Jim Voters) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...472e7dfce8.jpg Additional Information regarding Secondary Chain Guide Rattle By Marc Haibeck. 1. On the right side Chain Tensioner Housing the tensioner oil inlet is pointed downward. 2. The right pivoting secondary chain guide taps on the cylinder head causing the Chain Guide Rattle on engine Start Up. Background. Background is provided regarding Timing Chains/Chain Guides and the LT5 Engine. A. Timing Chains. There is the single Primary Timing Chain (driven by a sprocket on the Crankshaft) and two Secondary Timing Chains/sprockets (driven by the Primary Timing Chain). These two Secondary Timing Chains drive the four Camshafts (each Secondary Timing Chain of different length driving the single Intake and single Exhaust Camshafts on each side). Each Camshaft having 8 lobes pushing on 8 lifters and 8 valves stems (4 Primary and 4 Secondary). Total 32 Valves (16 Intake and 16 Exhaust). The Secondary Timing Chains are lubricated from an Oil Port in the Dual Secondary Timing Chain Sprocket which Oil Port is Pressurized (Oil Pressure). That Pressurized Oil is slung around within the Timing Chain Cover Lubricating the Secondary as well as the Primary Timing Chains. It is Very Important to make sure that small Oil Port in the Dual Secondary Timing Chain Sprocket is Open and Functional. B. Chain Guides. Associated with the Two Secondary Timing Chains are two each Chain Guides for Each Secondary Timing Chain. One Chain Guide can rotate while the other chain guide is stationary. There is a third Chain Guide located in the top of each Cam Cover also that has been known to rarely fail. The Passenger Side Top Chain Guide is most prone to rarely fail but easy to see pending failure through the Oil Fill Port. The Primary Chain also has a chain Guide/Adjuster that can wear over time but such normal wear does not seem to cause any issues. Timing Chain and Chain Guide Failures. I have only heard of two Failures of Secondary Timing Chains and both Failures were difficult to isolate the Cause. Chain Guide Wear proceeds with two groves from the Chain Links. Once the Chain Rollers come into contact with the Guides, the wear of the Chain Guides is extremely slow (Changing Oil Regularly will actually "for all practical purposes" stop chain guide wear almost completely). The Engine has to be removed to change out Timing Chains and/or Chain Guides. The Cam Cover Top Chain Guide can be changed out with engine in car by removing the Cam Covers (not easy but there is a trick to everything related to the LT5) :D Last UPDATE of post 161 Dec, 2017 |
Cam Cover Chain Guides, Filters, and A136
1. Cam Cover Chain Guides and Filters
http://www.f-lohmueller.de/pov_tut/a...Chain_35tt.gif Cam Cover Chain Guides clip onto a Chain Guide Holder held on by two small screws. Cam Cover Chain Guides I switched from Scotch Brite to Marc Haibeck's new Cam Cover Vent filter material Cam Cover Filters I think any kind of wire the size of a regular paper clip would work fine (bend straight a paper clip and cut so about 3/8 inch of the Paper Clip sticks out each side of the Cam Cover Filter Housing). Insert the straightened Paper Clip after the Cam Cover Filters are installed. Then.....bend each end of the wire sticking out of the Cam Cover Filter aluminum sides about 3/8 inch 90 deg so they will not drift out of place. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...72d6158d2e.jpg Be sure you do NOT loose those two dowel Pins aligning the Cam Covers with the Heads (one each end of the Head) 2. Applying A136 Cam Cover Sealant Apply A136 on the Heads (I actually apply A136 to the Head and not the Cam Cover after DEGREASING the surfaces) and in the grooves of the cam cover rubber end caps on both the Head AND Cam Covers Make sure you clean the grooves and rubber caps completely before applying A136.....and...NOT TOO MUCH A136.....just use finger and smooth out flat on surfaces of Head. And make sure you have the 4 "O" rings in place set in each recess of the Head (one each spark plug hole). AGAIN.......apply a small bead of A136 in center of mating surfaces on the Head and then smooth that bead out ALMOST to the edges of those surfaces with your finger (very thin surface of A136 ALMOST to the edges of the mating surfaces). You do not want a lot of A136 squeezed out and into the Head area during assembly of the Cam Covers onto the Heads. When you get the Cam Covers installed, take a paper towel and wipe clean ANY excess A136 that might have squeezed out on each end of the Cam Covers around the rubber end caps and all around each Cam Cover. There should be not much at all squeezed out if you did not overdo the use of A136. ;) I do NOT apply A136 beyond the bolt hole on each side of each journal making sure I do not end up with A136 messing with the Cam Shafts. In other words....stay away from the Camshafts journals at least 1/4 inch more or less (I keep A136 just outside of the bolt hole edge) each side of each Journal. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...76060843f3.jpg I think I actually did everything above on the Cam Covers and NOT the Heads one time but definitely do not apply A136 on BOTH. Either the Heads OR Cam Covers but not on BOTH. Except where the Rubber End Caps are involved (apply A136 in BOTH Heads and Cam Cover Grooves that take the Rubber End Caps). :D Cam Covers (Filters and Wear Strips) Last UPDATE of post 162 Dec, 2017 |
Camshaft Identification
Camshaft Identification (Photos Provided by Jerry's Gaskets)
Right Hand Passenger Side Intake (One Flat Ring) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...81f8efc857.jpg Right Hand Passenger Side Exhaust (One Circle Ring) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b2600560ba.jpg Left Hand Drivers Side Intake (One Flat Ring and One Circle Ring) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...84f3d12010.jpg Left Hand Drivers Side Exhaust (Two Circle Rings) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c58fc91d64.jpg Last UPDATE of post 163 Dec, 2017 |
Msd 8224
MSD Ignition Coil 8224
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9da0283d00.jpg Last UPDATE of post 164 Dec, 2017 |
Painting Top End
Painting Top End.
Remove Plenum (with Air Horn and TB attached). Remove Cam Covers for Painting and touch up Injector Housings (Paint) without removing them. See Removing Cam Covers (Engine In Car) for Inspections of Camshafts Painting Cam Covers ........................................ .............and Plenum with Air Horn/TB Attached. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...67f6e5a3fa.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6eb6b04738.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d5548a25b5.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...22bc95e44a.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3719b3d95d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b166369188.jpg Last UPDATE of post 165 Dec, 2017 |
Battery Disconnect
Battery Disconnect
I have always disconnected the negative battery terminal if the vehicle is expected to sit for a couple weeks. I am now going with this battery disconnect. Always have full battery power even after a couple months of battery disconnect. No messing with having to have electrical power and hood open or partially closed and no concern about electrical shorts when sitting with power connected (and electrical cords) for a while. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9024b93d04.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a4ce411ffc.jpg Last UPDATE of post 166 Dec, 2017 |
1990 and 1991 Plenums and TB Coolant Blocking at IH
1. 1990 and 1991 Plenum Differences
On the 1990 Plenum there exists a block of rubber about 2 inches long and 1.5 inches wide by 3/4 inch high with two holes side by side all the way through the 1.5 inch length. The block of rubber slides onto the two Plenum Ports shown. On the other end of that Rubber Tubing Adapter the charcoal canister vacuum line is plugged into the left port and the PCV vacuum is plugged into the right port (the hard PCV tube attached along the drivers side of Plenum coming from the PCV Dual Connector at rear of Plenum). If this Rubber Tubing Adapter gets lost, one can separate the two male nipples shown just a tad (by bending) and use two separate rubber hose connectors (the rubber hose being approximately 3/16 inch ID and each hose being approximately two inches long). The Rubber Tubing Adapter discussed here is only a 1990 LT5 item and does not exist on the 1991 LT5. 1990 Plenum with Throttle Body Coolant Nipple shown. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e204929559.jpg 2. Throttle Body Coolant Blocking at Injector Housing. As an aside...... The Top (smaller) male nipple shown on this 1990 photo (above photo) is the Throttle Body (TB) Coolant Nipple (Coolant Input Port). On this 1991 Plenum (below photo) I have BLOCKED the TB Coolant Input Port. 1991 Plenum with Throttle Body Ports plugged with red 1/8 inch pipe plug. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3e7bfccdb1.jpg Normally on all 1990s and 1991s I only block TB Coolant at the Injector Housing and leave the TB male nipple in place on the Plenum shown in the 1990 Plenum (above photo) with the TB Coolant Hoses in Place so it appears TB Coolant is NOT blocked when in fact it is. You have to also then block the TB Coolant rubber hose returning to the Coolant Reservoir on the Passenger Side of the Plenum. TB Coolant Nipple left in Place when Blocking TB Coolant at Injector Housing. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e204929559.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e6366b543d.jpg See Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a26c40be14.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3b3d04d635.jpg Last UPDATE of post 167 Dec, 2017 |
Installing a Ron Davis Radiator and Testing
1. Installing a Ron Davis Radiator and Testing.
Ron Davis Radiator w/o transmission cooling Coolant temperature stays at a constant 185 deg (70 deg F ambient) with 180 deg thermostat.* a. 1989-1996 C4 Type V8 All Part No. 1-16CV8996 b. Rated 800 Hp c. Manual transmission * Coolant Temperatures will climb a bit to the Fan Off Coolant Temperatures (200 deg F) with AC on (100 deg F ambient) See testing below. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...115c2ae933.jpg 2. Ron Davis Radiator Installation. First....Drain Coolant from system and remove Air Cleaner, Air Cleaner Housing. A. Removed Oil Cooler Adapter from Oil Cooler. B. Removed three 10 mm bolts bottom Fan Housing. C. Disconnect the two fans electrical. D. Remove two 10 mm nuts and one 13 mm bolt on Passenger Side. E. Remove one 10 mm nut and one 13 mm bolt on Drivers Side. F. Remove two 10 mm horizontal bolts on Drivers side. G. Remove two 10 mm horizontal bolts on Drivers side holding ??? to Drivers side of Radiator Shroud. H. Disconnect Temp Sensor bottom of Shroud. I. Remove five 10 mm bolts top Fan Housing. J. Remove three 7 mm bolts left and right bottom side of Shroud. K. Disconnect Vent coolant overflow hose top Passenger Side. L. Lift Drivers Side Shroud clear of Hood Hindge. L. Lift Passenger Side Shroud bending the lower tab up and around AC lines. M. Lift and remove Fans. N. Disconnect Top Radiator Hose. O. Remove three 13mm bolts from Thermostat Housing (More Coolant will drain from the system). P. Loosen short radiator Hose between Thermostat Housing and Radiator (Twist). Q. Remove Thermostat and remove Thermostat Housing Half that was connected to Radiator. R. Lift and remove Radiator. S. Clean Oil Cooler, AC Condenser, and bottom of Radiator Housing. Disconnect Oil Cooler Adapter .......................................Remove Shroud lifting Drivers Side First https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...20c071fb42.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...421e349451.jpg Lift out Stock Radiator followed by Fans........................Trim center parts of Fan Housing 1/2 inch https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...28ad1199d3.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7a591c1f2f.jpg Install Fans followed by Ron Davis Radiator and Shroud https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cf2901c977.jpg 3. Baseline Stock Radiator Testing at 100 deg F ambient temperature and 180 deg Thermostat (Fans on at 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F). Testing a 1990 ZR1 with stock radiator (AC Condenser, Oil Cooler, Radiator Clean) at 100 deg F ambient temperature. Using Fan Controls for digital readout of coolant temperatures. Coolant mix is identical for the stock radiator and the Ron Davis Radiator. Cruising 60 mph in 5th gear (AC Full ON fans at speed 10) coolant temperature 225 deg F Did not cruise with AC OFF as temperature of coolant is not prohibitive. Idling (AC Full ON fans at speed 10) coolant temperature 235 deg F Idling (AC OFF) coolant temperature 230 deg F 4. Ron Davis Radiator Testing at 100 deg F ambient temperature and 180 deg Thermostat (Fans on at 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F). Testing a 1990 ZR1 with Ron Davis radiator (AC Condenser, Oil Cooler Clean) Using Fan Controls for digital readout of coolant temperatures. Coolant mix will be identical for the stock radiator and the Ron Davis Radiator. Cruising 60 mph in 5th gear (AC Full ON fans at speed 10) coolant temperature 197 deg F Idling (AC Full ON fans at speed 10) coolant temperature 213 deg F Did not cruise with AC OFF as temperature of coolant is not prohibitive. Idling (AC OFF) coolant temperature 208 deg F 5. Testing of 1991 ZR1 with Ron Davis Radiator and 180 deg Thermostat (Fans on at 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F). The 1991 ZR1 with Ron Davis Radiator, AC Full On, and 100 deg F ambient temperatures the Coolant temperatures stayed around 197 F cruise in 5th gear (60 mph) and rose to 213 F with AC Full On Idling (208 deg F with AC Off). This using the Fan Controls for Digital Read Out of Coolant Temperatures. The testing of the 1991 ZR1 was conducted with identical Ron Davis Radiator with the identical AC Condenser, Oil Cooler, Coolant Fans and identical 180 deg Thermostat. The ambient temperature was 100 deg F. The 1991 ZR1 has SW Off Road Exhaust as compared to the 1990 ZR1 with Stock Exhaust. 6. Summary of Ron Davis Radiator Testing using a 1990 and 1991 ZR1 in HOT ambient temperatures cruising and in traffic (idling). The objective here is to create a baseline of simple testing criteria to determine how ZR1 radiators (1990 and 1991) will function cruising and in traffic (idling). The simple baseline criteria are 100 deg ambient temperatures, 180 deg thermostat, and functioning AC. Both the 1991 and the 1990 ZR1 Coolant temperatures on a HOT Day (100 deg F ambient) behaved the same with both Coolant Systems settling in at 197 deg F cruising at 60 mph in 5th gear with AC Full On. At a long term idling (more than 15 minutes) the coolant temperatures settled in at 213 deg F with AC Full On. With AC OFF the coolant temperatures dropped to 208 deg F. Last UPDATE of post 168 Dec, 2017 |
Reserved 21
Last UPDATE of post 169 Dec, 2014 |
Abbreviations
Abbreviations
XfireZ51 posted This List Of Abbreviations :thumbs: ~T - Inverse Temperature ~AFR - Inverse Air Fuel Ratio #/Hr - Pounds per Hour ABS - Anti-lock Braking System A/C - Air Conditioning ADC - Analog to Digital Converter AE - Acceleration Enrichment AFPR - Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator AFR - Air Fuel Ratio AIR - Air Injection Reactor ATDC - After Top Dead Center ALDL - Assembly Line Diagnostic Link BARO - Barometric Pressure BBC - Big Block Chevy BBL - Barrel BCM - Body Control Module BDC - Bottom Dead Center BIN - Binary BLM - Block Learn Multiplier (long term fuel trim) BSFC - Brake Specific Fuel Consumption BPC - Base Pulse Constant BPW - Base Pulse Width BTDC - Before Top Dead Center CAFE - Corporate Average Fuel Economy CARB - California Air Resources Board C - Celsius CAT - Catalytic Converter CAT-CON - Catalytic Converter CCI - Computer Controlled Ignition CCP - Charcoal Cannister Purge CDI - Capacitive Discharge Ignition CEL - Check Engine Light CFI - Cross-Fire Injection CLT - Closed Loop Term (fueling correction) CNP - Coil Near Plug CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor dTPS - Delta Throttle Position Sensor dMAP - Delta Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor DC - Duty Cycle DE - Deceleration Enleanment (opposite of AE) DFCO - Decel Fuel Cut Off DIS - Distributorless Ignition System DRP - Distributor Reference Pulse EBL - EmBedded Lockers system ECM - Engine Control Module ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation EGT - Exhaust Gas Temperature EPROM - Eraseable Programmable Read-only Memory ESC - Electronic Spark Control, knock detection & retard EST - Electronic Spark Timing, SA control F - Fahrenheit FAR - Fuel Air Ratio FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator Ft/Lb - Foot Pounds (torque) GPS - Grams Per Second Gms/Sec - Grams per Second HEI - High Energy Ignition HP - Horse Power HYST - Hysteresis IAC - Idle Air Control (an actuator) IAT - Intake Air Temperature (sensor) INT - Integrator (short term fuel trim) Km - KiloMeters Km/L - Kilometers per Litre KPa - KiloPascals KPH - Kilometers Per Hour LDA - Lobe Displacement Angle (camshaft, same as LSA) LM - Launch Mode LSA - Lobe Separation Angle (camshaft, same as LDA) LV8 - Load Variable, 8-bit LV16 - Load Variable, 16-bit MAF - Mass Air Flow MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure MAT - Manifold Air Temperature (sensor) MPG - Miles Per Gallon MPH - Miles Per Hour MPFI - Multi Port Fuel Injection mSec - milli-Seconds (.001 second) NB - Narrow Band O2 sensor N-Alpha - RPM & Throttle position for load N/V - Ratio of Engine speed (N) to Vehicle Speed (V) O2 - Oxygen Sensor value P/S - Power Steering PA3 - Knock Counts (PA3 is the name of the ECM counter) PCM - Powertrain Control Module PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation PE - Power Enrichment (see WOT) PPH - Pounds Per Hour PROM - Programmable Read-only Memory PSI - Pounds per Square Inch PW - Pulse Width PWM - Pulse Width Modulation RPM - Revolutions Per Minute SA - Spark Advance SBC - Small Block Chevy SD - Speed Density SES - Service Engine Soon TACH - Tachometer TBI - Throttle Body Injection TCC - Torque Converter Clutch TCM - Transmission Control Module TDC - Top Dead Center TF - Throttle Follower (IAC function) TPS - Throttle Position Sensor TSA - total spark advance uSec - micro-Seconds (.000001 seconds) UEGO - Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor (a WB unit) VAC - Vacuum VAFPR - Vacuum Adjusted Fuel Pressure Regulator VATS - Vehicle Anti-theft System VE - Volumetric Efficiency VRFPR - Vacuum Referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor WB - Wide Band O2 sensor WOT - Wide Open Throttle (see PE) WYSIWYG - What You See Is What You Get Last UPDATE of post 170 Mar, 2024 |
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Horsepower Losses from Angular Acceleration of Rotational Mass
1. Horsepower Losses from Angular Acceleration of Rotational Mass.
We strapped the car down and did a pull with the stock rotors: 313 TQ / 327 HP Then actually jacked the car up ON THE DYNO and changed the rotors and ended up at 339 HP / 319 TQ. That's +12 HP and +7 TQ. Really ??? Maybe the new rotors where thinner and there was less frictional resistance with the calipers :yesnod: I do not get it :hide: The DYNO is measuring pull and speed. You get a pull (force) at fixed speeds which is the horsepower. Or you get the force at the wheel to ground contact and the distance of that ground contact from center of wheel (torque) and the wheel rotational speed which you have horsepower. DYNOs of which one type is Inertial will measure this ground contact force (the inertial DYNO measures this indirectly by applying a ground tractive force to a massive rotating drum with the Moment of Inertia of the drum known). A dynamometer or "dyno" for short, is a device for measuring force, torque, or power. For example, the power produced by an engine, motor or other rotating prime mover can be calculated by simultaneously measuring torque and rotational speed (RPM). You are not measuring the rotational acceleration and resistance to that rotational acceleration of all the rotating components on the DYNO. That includes the wheel, rotors, hubs, wheel nuts, short shafts, differential components, drive shaft, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and crankshaft with all that is rotating on the front of the engine also (alternator, AC compressor, harmonic balancer, power steering pulley), and even camshafts. Now...if they revved it up and measured instantaneous pull forces depending on how fast they were accelerating at any given instantaneous speed they would get a different number each speed depending on how fast they were accelerating through that speed. But I am not familiar with a DYNO that actually is acceleration dependent (able to change the rotating DYNO mass such that the rotational acceleration of the drive train components is identical to that of the acceleration of those components at WOT on an asphalt surface. Each car has a fixed mass and will accelerate on asphalt (excluding laying rubber) directly related to the torque output of the engine and gear ratio. Each Inertial DYNO has (I assume) a fixed mass and will accelerate (rotationally) directly related to the torque output of the engine and gear ratio. Now.....that fixed mass of the DYNO would have to be altered for each car mass to achieve the same drive train rotational accelerations as the car would see on asphalt. If not the same drive train accelerations, the differences achieved by using lighter brake rotors for example would be different depending on the DYNO mass used (depending on the mass of the Car). The faster you accelerate the lower the horsepower numbers would be for each speed until you reach a constant speed in which the rotating masses (rotational acceleration) would not be sucking horsepower from your horsepower speed curve. It all depends on the mass of the DYNO roller (for measurement of the effects of drive train rotational accelerations only). And in actuality, it all depends in real life on the mass of the car. The mass of the DYNO roller cannot necessarily duplicate the effects of the mass of the car which then results in different rotational accelerations of drive train components on the DYNO as compared to on asphalt. And each car mass is different to complicate the duplication of rotating masses effects on a DYNO as compared to the car on asphalt. I doubt any inertial DYNO duplicates the rotational accelerations of drive train components as found at WOT on asphalt. I can calculate the benefits of rotational mass reduction much more accurately if the Moment of Inertia of your Rotors are known. The moment of inertia, otherwise known as the angular mass or rotational inertia, of a rigid body determines the torque needed for a desired angular acceleration about a rotational axis. Unless you have identical rotating accelerations of drive train masses on the DYNO and on Asphalt the horsepower losses for rotor angular accelerations will be different. You will get some savings in horsepower for lighter rotors but the numbers will be different on the DYNO as compared to Asphalt and from DYNO to DYNO having different rotating masses (drums). If you have a light weight DYNO drum your savings in going to lighter rotors will be greater. Same if you chopped 2,000 lbs off your ZR-1 ending up with a bit over 1,000 lbs......in that case your savings in horsepower using lighter rotors will be greater because your drive train angular accelerations on asphalt are much greater with a trap speed considerably greater. 2. Horsepower Advantages using Lighter Rotors Front and Rear on the ZR-1. Performance AFX. These rotors weigh 16.5 lbs F and 14.5 lbs R. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f56a28e8f3.jpg Calculations of Horsepower gained by using lighter Rotors on the Front and Rear are included herein. A. Rotor, Tire, and Wheel characteristics. Nitto Invos Front: 28lbs. 25.5"dia Rear: 37.4lbs 26.7"dia Michelin SuperSports Front: 28lbs 25.9"dia Rear: 35lbs 27.2"dia OEM Rotors. Front: 27.5lbs Rear: 20lbs OEM Rims Front: 25.8lbs Rear: 27.4lbs Performance A/FX Rotors Front: 16.5lbs Rear: 14.5lbs Front 14 inches (1.16 ft) diameter (.58 ft radius) Rear 13 inches (1.08 ft) diameter (.54 ft radius) Rear Axle: 3.73:1 B. The Simple Case first to see if we have potential using lighter weight Rotors. Moment of Inertia. Moment of Inertia I = 1/2 M x R x R where M is mass in slugs (Weight/g) and R is radius in feet and I is moment of inertia in lbs divided by ft /sec^2 multiplied by ft^2 or lbs sec^2 ft (where ^ indicates power of or 2 is squared). g is acceleration of gravity or 32 ft/sec^2 For the Front Stock Rotors having a radius of .58 ft and weighing 27.5 lbs the mass will be .85 slugs. For the Front Stock Rotors with a mass of .85 slugs and a Radius of .58 ft the Moment of Inertia will be .143 lb ft sec^2. Angular acceleration. Angular acceleration is in Radians per sec^2 and there are 2 pi radians per revolution or 6.28 radians per revolution. Just taking the Front Rotors as a quick example and lets assume the vehicle acceleration is constant for the quarter mile reaching a speed of 120 mph in 13 seconds using Nitto Invos with a 25.5 inch diameter. At 120 mph the tires having a circumference of 6.67 ft will be rotating at 26.4 revolutions per second (165.8 Radians per second). This rotation is achieved in 13 seconds so the angular acceleration will be 2.03 revolutions per sec^2 (12.75 radians per second^2) . This will also be the angular acceleration of the associated rotors. Torque. Torque = Moment of Inertia multiplied by angular acceleration or .143 lb ft sec^2 multiplied by 12.75 radians per second^2 Torque equals 1.82 ft lbs which is constant as the Rotor accelerates in the 1/4 mile assuming the angular acceleration is constant. Horsepower to accelerate the rotor in rotation (Angular Acceleration). To get HP which is variable as the rotor accelerates angularily.....we will look at the maximum angular velocity at 120 mph or 26.4 revolutions per second (165.8 Radians per second). There is 550 ft lbs per second in one HP. HP = angular velocity multiplied by Torque. We have 165.8 radians per second multiplied by 1.82 ft lbs or 301.7 ft lbs per second which is approximately .548hp (301.7/550) which is the horsepower generated at the angular velocity of 1,584rpm (26.4 revolutions per second) as the rotor is still accelerating angularily. This is the Horsepower required to angularily accelerate one rotor with constant angular acceleration in the 1/4 mile. C. Comments and additional considerations. Now as one can imagine the vehicle acceleration is less in 3rd gear than in 1st but in 1st gear the car velocity is considerably less.. The .584 hp is for one single front stock rotor. As can be imagined without running the numbers for the lighter rotor, the hp for that rotor will be less and even if it were zero horsepower the savings in going to the lighter front rotor is only a bit over half a horsepower. Another observation is that at the green light the LT5 has ample horsepower to spin the tires at which time the lighter rotors (with tires spinning) will offer a bit more savings in horsepower but savings in horsepower with tires spinning is not required. D. Summary of lighter Rotor Horsepower Savings. Now as can be expected the Front Rotors are the Heaviest and assuming the rear Rotors have similar savings the maximum savings for all four Rotors would be a bit over 2 hp and that assumes the lighter weight rotors weigh nothing. That also assumes a higher rotational acceleration at 120 mph than can be expected as we are in 3rd gear. The assumptions in this first simple case are to get a ball park and if the ball park is so small as to be negligible, there is no need to adjust the assumptions expecting significantly greater savings in horsepower. In this case the assumption was a rather BIG assumption assuming the New Lighter Weight Rotors actually weighed nothing. The very low Rotor Horsepower requirements for angular acceleration seems reasonable given he angular acceleration of the Rotors in the 1/4 mile to achieve 120 mph vehicle speed is very very low (2.03 revolutions per sec^2) One would expect considerable more horsepower savings in going to a lighter flywheel since the flywheel is accelerated three times in the 1/4 mile and at much greater rpms approaching 7,000 rpm maximum. Last UPDATE of post 179 Dec, 2017 |
Tools to Carry in the ZR1
1. Tools to Carry in the ZR1 behind the Seats 90'-91'.
Bottom Drivers Side. Volt Meter, Resistance Meter and 1/4 inch Metric Tools..................1/4 Inch Metric Tools with some additional items noted https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...40de2e47ae.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...15aba5f01f.jpg Second Layer Drivers Side. Medium Channel Locks, Phillips and Flat Screw Driver, 1/4 Inch Socket Driver with 7mm Socket (7mm socket used on all the interior Hush Panel and console screws and exterior ECM Chip Cover), 8mm Flex Open End Ratchet https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed1c5a6e51.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a40a85dda4.jpg Top Layer Drivers Side. Fuel Pump Jumper and ALDL Code Reader/Eraser .......................Plug in to ALDL and Hold Any Button then turn key on to ........................................ ........................................ .....................Read Associated Codes ALDL Fault Code Flasher/Eraser https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...64bd87a9bd.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8985dd1f8e.jpg Bottom Passenger Side......................................... ..........................Bottom Top Box Passenger Side. 25 ft Nylon Tow Rope, Jumper Cables, Quart AMSOIL 10w-40.........Flex Head Ratchet Set (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm) ........................................ ........................................ ......................(14mm Flex Head Ratchet used on Oil Pan Drain Plug) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f67a8d3914.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c9e7c7fbe9.jpg Second Layer Top Box Passenger Side......................................... .Top Layer Top Box Passenger Side. 3/8 inch Socket Wrench with 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter .................long 3/8 inch drive 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm (Belt Tensioner), 3/8 inch drive Torx 40, Short 3/8 inch drive .....Allen for (SS Bolts of TB, Coolant Manifolds, Throttle Cables) Wobble Extension, Short 3/8 inch drive 6mm Allen (Cam Covers), Tire Repair Kit, Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da1e9e4cf8.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ea361c5313.jpg Tow Adapter Stored next to Passenger Seat......................Gorilla Lug Wrench https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f4286c453c.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...44f7b38176.jpg The Tow Adapter is made to engage the 1-1/4 inch square tubing of the frame support under the front of the ZR-1. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d4c04266c6.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d08ed0b880.jpg Tire Pressure Gauge in the Center Console https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...02cc8da6a5.jpg 2. There is a BIG difference between the 90'/91' and the 95' (Maybe 93' and 94') in regard to the storage for the tools. On the 95' there is only one compartment (behind the Passenger Side) for tools. And there is NO Glove Box on the 95' But there is a Trick ;) The Bottom Seat Cushion is easily removed by pushing down on the wire clip in front of the Seat frame. The Cushion can then be easily removed totally and you will observe two straps going from the front to the rear of the frame. Under those straps and above the bottom of the seat frame you can store your Manual and Jumper Cables on the Drivers Side. On the Passenger Side I store the Extension Hex Sockets and the ALDL Code Reader and Adapter. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...aeb3727859.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...77acb14606.jpg Passenger Side Details. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d87174d95d.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...037c88281b.jpg Behind the Passenger Seat I store in layers......(1) quart of 10W-40 Amzoil, (2) channel locks, 3/8 inch socket wrench, Spark Plug Wrench, #5 Torx, (3) Screw Drivers, 1/4 inch socket wrench with 13mm socket, 10mm and 8mm flex head open end ratchet wrenches, #5 long Allen Head, (4) Volt Meter, 1/4 Inch Metric Tools with some additional items, Fuel Pig Tail for #2 Fuel Pump. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f62139a6b0.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b177fd40ed.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8701aaa6cf.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5368dcedb6.jpg Beside the Passenger Seat I store the Lug Wrench and the Tow Adapter. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a063729ca5.jpg Regarding alternators and other spare parts. Anything original I think needs Restoration including the Alternator, Starter, Serpentine Belt, Belt Tensioner......I rebuild such that there is NO reason to carry those parts as spares. And....I do carry Jumper Cables and the Tow Adapter. Last UPDATE of post 180 Dec, 2017 |
The Rebuild and Assembly of a 1991 Spare LT5
The Rebuild and Assembly of a 1991 Spare LT5
The Removal and Installation of Harmonic Balancer/Front Cover is one of the last posts (Post 199) normally accomplished with a complete LT5 Restoration. Often, however, the inspection of the Timing Chain Guides is the sole purpose of removing an engine and as such is included here as one of the last posts (Post 199). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...93767b8453.jpg This rebuild will include Cleaning of the Block, removal and installation of Liners. (Post 181). Restoration of the Oil Pan and components and installation of Oil Pan (Post 182). Restoration of the Starter and installation of Starter (Post 183) . Restoration of the Ignition Coils, plugs, Wires (Post 184). Painting Plenum, TB, Injector Housing and Cam Covers (Post 185). Restoration of the Secondary System including the linkages (Post 186). Restoration of the Injectors (Post 187). Restoration of the Heads (Post 188). Head Installation (Post 189). Finding TDC and Locating 51 deg BTDC (Post 190). Water Pump, Power Steering Pump, and Injector Housing Installation (Post 191). Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking (Post 192). Alternator and AC Compressor Installation (Post 193). Camshaft Timing (Post 194). Installation of the DIS Module (Post 195). Installation of Secondary Vacuum System (Post 196). Plenum Installation (Post 197). Installation of Flywheel, Clutch and Bell Housing(Post 198). Removal and Installation of Harmonic Balancer/Front Cover(Post 199). Compression Testing (Post 200). 1. Some related technical information regarding Main Bearing Caps and Liners provided by Marc Haibeck. Haibeck Automotive Technology A. The tightening procedure for the crankshaft caps is: - Caps 1,3 & 5. Tighten to 30 lb. ft. and then turn 45 - 50 degrees. - Caps 2 & 4. Tighten to 15 lb. ft. and then turn 78 - 83 degrees. B. The tightening procedure for the Piston Rod Bolts is: 22 ft-lbs plus 80 - 85 deg turn. C. The A and B liners can be mixed into any engine as long as the matching A or B piston is also used. The pistons are match fitted to the liners with respect to piston to wall clearance. '90 to '92 pistons and rods are interchangeable. '93 to '95 pistons and rods are lighter and can't be used on an earlier engine except as a full set of eight. Then the crankshaft needs to be lightened to match. 2. Block cleaned/degreased https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...89f3943378.jpg 3. Removal and Installation of Piston Liners This engine had sat for a long while and a couple cylinders had minor damage where the rings had been in contact with the liner for a long time with the valves open for that cylinder. As a precaution I decided to replace the Liners with new rings for three or possibly four cylinders. Since I had the Bottom End Pistons totally removed for Inspection of the rods, pistons and rings, I decided to replace ALL rod bearings with new Rod Bolts. LT5 Piston Liner Removal Tool I came up with a tool to easily Remove Liners (Removal of number 4 liner shown). The Removal of Number 3 and 4 liners have additional difficulty because of the Crankshaft Position Sensor Wheel. The beauty of this Liner Removal Tool is that once the Liner is pulled approximately 3 inches the Top Nut is further tightened to capture the Liner between the Top and Bottom Plate. The whole unit including the Liner then becomes solid as if one piece and by then the Liner is pulled far enough to have a looseness that you can wiggle the whole assembly out of the block with nothing falling loose. Initial breakout of the Liner surprisingly does not take much force at all with the Liner Removal Tool. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...94bdecb913.jpg Wood Blocks on the Top of the Block to protect ............Liner Removed showing Liner Removal Tool fully retracted. the Block Surface. The ALL thread has a two flats..........Once fully retracted the Liner is compressed by the Liner on the top inch of thread to hold from turning. .............Removal tool and the liner can then be removed by hand. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...29ae14038f.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6886eb23f8.jpg The Components are made from 1/2 inch aluminum plate and one 12 inch long x 1/2 inch All Thread Rod. There is absolutely NO damage to any aluminum surfaces of the Block during this Liner Removal. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fbb081cfb5.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...56aec336f9.jpg The 1/2 inch x 12 inch All thread rod has two FLATS on the Top End (end with blocks) so the rod can be prevented from turning as the Top Nut is tightened. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...77522dc960.jpg 4. Installation of New Liner See Item #1-5 Installing New Piston Sleeve and Piston https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a728f1ce3a.jpg 5. Installation of Piston with New Rings See Item #6-7 Installing New Piston Sleeve and Piston Last UPDATE of post 181 Dec, 2017 |
Bottom End Restoration including Oil Pan
Bottom End Restoration including Oil Pan
A. Installing New Piston Sleeve/Liner and Piston (Information provided by Ben - bdw18_123) 1. How much Loctite 565 did you use and where? The LT5 manual calls for a 12mm (.47 in.) wide band of sealer around the entire circumference of the liner, 25.4mm (1.0 in.) from the base of the liner (the parts that touch the surface when you set the liner down). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0b1b7c9337.jpg However, before you glue the liner in, you have to set the liner in place without glue first and measure the liner 'standout height' to make sure it is within spec. This is extremely critical because the head gasket can compensate for only a very small variance between the liners and cylinder case deck. IMPORTANT! Liner must be installed with flats positioned 90 degrees to crankshaft axis (flats facing front and rear of cylinder case). Flats of adjacent liners should be parallel so that a small gap exists between them. MEASURE Measure liner standout height. This distance from the cylinder case deck to the lower ridge at the top of the liner should be 0.001 - 0.003 in. If standout height is not within specification, inspect liner ridge for damage, dirt or burrs. Clean as required. Recheck standout height. If still not within specification, Inspect Cylinder case liner seat for damage, dirt or burrs. Clean as required. Recheck standout height. If still not within specification, Replace cylinder liner. Recheck standout height. Measure the liner for out-of-round and taper (a new liner should be OK in this regard). Once the standout height is within spec, the liner can be glued in place. 2. Do all the sleeves fit the same way or does it depend on a cylinder by cylinder basis? The cutouts are symmetrical at the base of the liner. The flats of each liner should be facing each other. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...231a1b7eb9.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ab5bc9ef8a.jpg 3. Can you just push that new sleeve/liner in or does that take some clamping to get the new sleave in place? Or tapping in with wood block and hammer? You shouldn't need to tap or hit the liner at all to put it in place. It should just slide right in real easily. The only reason you need the puller to remove a liner is because of the glue. 4. Do you have to hold that new liner in place for how long? The manual doesn't mention any specific time frame, it just says to install the cylinder liner retainers and leave them in place until head installation. You can make liner retainers using sockets and the head bolts. 5. Did you hone the new sleeve/liner to make sure the new rings seat? No, because the manual specifically says: "DO NOT hone cylinder liners!", which I assume is due to the hardened nikasil coating. Completely different deal compared to what you would do in this case on, say, an iron block. So yeah, definitely don't do that. 6. Which way do the rings go on the piston? Top compression ring should be installed with chamfer (or bevel) facing downward. Second compression ring should be installed with manufacturer mark (TOP) facing upward. Rings should be installed with gaps spaced approximately 120 degrees apart from one another. 7. Installing Piston The Ring Comressor is closed around the piston after the rings are installed. The inside of the New Piston Sleeve/Liner and New Piston outside diameter (including rings) are lubricated with engine oil. The Piston with Ring Compressor is then set in place inside the New Piston Sleeve/Liner with the Ring Compressor sitting in contact with the top of the New Piston Sleeve (not inside the sleeve/liner). The New Piston is then gently (making sure the piston is not cocked one way or the other) tapped into the New Piston Sleeve with the wooden end of a hammer. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7ddfa4cab8.jpg Notes: 1. The arrow on the top of the piston should point towards the front of the engine and the chamfer (or bevel) on the journal end of the rod should face the crankshaft counterweight. 2. The Connecting Rod Bolts should not be reused as they are stressed into yield during assembly. The Connecting Rod Bolts (threads and cap lubricated with engine oil) are torqued to 22 ft-lbs + 80 deg additional turn (no loctite). The original Connecting Rod Bolts have a 12 pt 14 mm head and new ARP Connecting Rod Bolts from Marc Haibeck have a 12 pt 13 mm head. 3. Lubricate both halves of the Rod Bearings and the Crankshaft Journal with engine oil before assembly. B. Removal and Restoration of the Oil Pan For those like myself who use Permatex on oil and water component gaskets (water pump, oil pan, oil filter adapter) you may find those components are difficult to remove (even with all the bolts removed). See Item #1b of Use of thread Lubricants, Loctite and Sealants I have a method involving Poundable, Washer Wedges that works perfectly every time without any damage to the gasket surfaces. The more Washer Wedges you use the easier the removal becomes (I use three on a side of the Oil Pan). Two beveled washers are held up with magnetic sticks for the photo. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...872bd874e2.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d4e0cf3598.jpg Oil Pan with gasket and Oil Pick Up "O" ring. Permatex on each side of gasket The Permatex (let the Permatex dry with gasket for 15 minutes) keeps the gasket in place during Oil Pan installation. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1157c8d0eb.jpg Last UPDATE of post 182 Dec, 2018 |
Starter Rebuild
1. Starter Rebuild.
I did a complete Starter Rebuild identical to mgbrv8 shown below in his photo. Complete starter rebuild by mgbrv8 (Dave) The two Armature Bearings shown installed on each end of the Armature in the photo were replaced (pulling the bearings with a small bearing puller) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b5d4872bd5.jpg The moving Solenoid contacts were wire brushed and the fixed contacts were shined up with emery cloth. The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...eb44f7d815.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...dbaf7481c4.jpg The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo. Also use a bit of emery cloth on the two fixed contacts. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...24125d690a.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cd56f84cfa.jpg The Starter was then tested connecting a Battery Jumper Cable from the Battery positive to the Starter Input. Then Battery negative was connected to the Starter Housing. I then used a small jumper from the Starter Solenoid onnector touching the Starter Input (which was Hot being connected to the Battery positive). The Starter Functioned Perfectly. Last UPDATE of post 183 Dec, 2017 |
Restoration of the Ignition Coils, plugs, Wires
Restoration of the Ignition Coils, plugs, Wires
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0db4538c56.jpg Last UPDATE of post 184 Dec, 2017 |
Painting Plenum, TB, Injector Housing and Cam Covers
Painting Plenum, TB, Injector Housing and Cam Covers
I used Rustoleum High Heat Silver https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a7a1f22dfa.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...74a3d9e8bf.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f0de936633.jpg Last UPDATE of post 185 Dec, 2017 |
Restoration of the Secondary System including the linkages
Restoration of the Secondary System including the linkages
Last UPDATE of post 186 Sep, 2015 |
Restoration of the Injectors
Restoration of the Injectors
Stock Injectors measure 12-13 Ohms and I am assuming 14 ohms on all the Ford #19 Injectors? The Ford 19 lb injectors were wire brushed with new "O" rings installed and resistance checked. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...92b837c47b.jpg 1. Stock vrs Ford #19 Injectors The stock Delphi Multec Injector is on the left and the Ford #19 Injector is on the right. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...29b5f35774.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fda07ecf63.jpg The little plastic cap ( pintle cap) on the Ford #19 Secondary Injector stays with the injector as installed and keeps the "O" ring from falling off the Injector and inside the Injector Housing. 2. Ford #19s found on several LT5s I have found the Ford #19 injectors on three LT5s I have restored so far and the resistance of these (Ford #19) injectors in photos is 14 ohms within 1 ohm on all injectors. One set of those (Ford #19) has the pintle cap and another set did not. Some guys remove the plastic pintle cap which is suppose to be left in place during installation of the secondary injector. I have not found one of these injectors (Ford #19) with resistance not within an ohm of 14 ohms. I left one set of (Ford #19) in the restoration of one LT5 and it runs perfectly. I will use a spare set of these injectors in a 1991 LT5 I am now restoring. 3. Sizing Injectors I am assuming the Ford #19 are 19 lb injectors rated at a fuel pressure of 39.15 psi.....read that somewhere :yesnod: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...208b4c6191.jpg Horsepower = (Fuel Injector Rating)(Duty %)(Quantity of Injectors)/(BSFC) If we assume Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of .50 lbs of fuel per hour per horsepower...... The Injector Rating required for 500 hp (80% duty cycle and 16 injectors)..... We would get 19.53 lbs/hr for each injector is required for 500 horsepower. We have for the Ford #19s Injectors a Fuel Flow Rate Increase since the Ford #19s are rated at 39.15 psi Fuel Pressure and we operate at 43.5 psi Fuel Pressure. We have square root of Actual Pressure/Rated Pressure or square root of 43.5/39.15 = 1.054 x 19 lbs/hr = 20.03 lbs/hr actual flow rate of Ford #19s (at the higher Fuel Pressure of 43.5 psi) which is greater than the 19.53 lbs/hr required for 500 hp. Another way of looking at the Ford #19 Injector Capabilities...... For the Ford #19s in an LT5......Horsepower = (19)(1.054)(.80)(16)/.50 = 512.7 hp 4. As a comparison I have calculated the use of RC SL4 205s..... I use RC SL4-205 injectors in a 1991 500 horsepower LT5 which RC Injectors are 20 lb rated at a Fuel Pressure of 43.5 psi. You would use RC 225s for 650 hp or more. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...419d127fcd.jpg Horsepower = (Fuel Injector Rating)(Duty %)(Quantity of Injectors)/(BSFC) If we assume Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of .50 lbs of fuel per hour per horsepower...... The Injector Rating required for 500 hp (80% duty cycle and 16 injectors)..... We would get 19.53 lbs/hr for each injector is required for 500 horsepower. There would be NO correction for Fuel Pressure Differences on the Injector Flow Rate since RCs are tested at the same pressure we are operating with in the LT5 (43.5 psi Fuel Pressure). 20 lbs/hr actual flow rate of RC 205s is greater than the 19.53 lbs/hr required for 500 hp. Another way of looking at the RC 205s Injector Capabilities....... For the RC 205s in an LT5......Horsepower = (20)(1.0)(.80)(16)/.50 = 512 hp Bottom Line......the Ford #19s are equal to the RC 205s as used in an LT5 Application (16 Injectors) with 43.5 psi Fuel Pressure available. 5. Injector Offset explanation direct from RC Engineering. A fuel injector’s offset time is the minimum amount of time it takes for an injector valve to move from fully-closed to fully-opened. Generally, most injectors will open fully within 1.0 milliseconds, at 13.5 Volts and 43.5 psi (3 BAR) of fuel pressure. With that said, small flow rate injectors usually open faster than large flow rate injectors because small flowing injectors will have smaller valves, less mass, and less weight. Also, the higher the voltage, the quicker the opening time (smaller offset). Conversely, the higher the fuel pressure, the slower the opening time. Similar-sized injectors, like the stock LT5 injectors and RC Engineering’s SL4-205 injectors, will have very similar offset times and similar electronic characteristic all together. If you change to a significantly larger injector (20% more or larger), then you’ll need to reprogram your ECU fuel map, including the injector offset tables. Last UPDATE of post 187 Dec, 2017 |
Restoration of the Heads
Restoration of the Heads
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...65b66a793b.jpg Last UPDATE of post 188 Dec, 2017 |
Head Installation
Head Installation
Last UPDATE of post 189 Sep, 2015 |
Finding TDC and Locating 51 deg BTDC
Finding TDC and Locating 51 deg BTDC
Last UPDATE of post 190 Sep, 2015 |
Water Pump, Power Steering Pump, and Injector Housing Installation
Water Pump, Power Steering Pump, and Injector Housing Installation
Last UPDATE of post 191 Sep, 2015 |
Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking
Injector Housing Throttle Body (TB) Coolant Blocking
Remove Plenum and Coolant Manifolds and Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing (Undetected and appears stock or otherwise knows as Non-Transparent). Install 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plugs (21/64 or 11/32 drill) two each Injector Housing (IH) Coolant as shown. The most difficult part to TB Coolant Blocking is the removal of the two Injector Housing Coolant Pipes. Those 4 bolts in each pipe may be impossible to remove without heat. Just take a torch and heat each manifold along the whole length of the bolt a bit before removing the 6mm x 50mm torx T-30 bolts (I replace with SS Allen Head bolts). The Injector Housing Throttle Body Coolant Plugs can be installed without removing the Injector Housings . Just be careful and cover the Injector Housing Ports when drilling and tapping the Coolant Port. It helps to remove the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to make sure you do not drop aluminum shavings inside the coolant manifolds. Install the two 1/8 inch x 27 NPT Aluminum pipe plugs in the Injector Housings. See Summit Racing 1/8 inch Aluminum Pipe Plugs for Aluminum Pipe Plugs. It is simple and all you have to do is place 1/8 inch pipe plugs in two ports after drilling out a bit. You do NOT need a drill press but try to drill and tap as perpendicular to the Injector Housing Intake surface as possible. Keep trying the pipe plug as you tap the hole such that the pipe plug becomes tight but almost flush with the Injector Housing/Plenum mating surface. Use Red Loctite on the pipe plug in the final installation (the final installation procedure is to take a flat file and dress up the pipe plug with the surface (the pipe plug you use is Aluminum so easy to dress up). It is important to have a shop vac handy as you drill and tap into aluminum to suck up all shavings. Note 1: When drilling into aluminum with hand drill do NOT apply a lot of pressure and trigger the drill on and off rather than just hold the trigger. In aluminum the drill bit might catch and then the hole you are drilling gets screwed up just as you are about to pop through. In this case you are about to pop through at the start as the smaller hole is already there. If you are not sure.....chuck up the drill bit lightly so it spins in the chuck if it takes a bigger bite than expected when drilling. Note 2: When tapping the drilled hole make sure the tap is perpendicular to the Injector Housing surface. Turn the tap with vertical pressure to start the thread and then rotate the tap only one turn at a time backing off and cleaning the tap each complete turn. As you get close to the tap depth required, keep trying the pipe plug such that it is near flush when finally installed but with considerable resistance when installing. The final installation is with red Loctite and then file smooth with the surface. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a0395b0fd8.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f3d36d1145.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b3ce40f693.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c3515ab37b.jpg This Non-Transparent Installation of TB Coolant Blocking will require you insert a plug consisting of a brass nipple soldered closed before insertion in a splice in the Coolant Return Line on the Passenger side of the Plenum (the only TB Coolant hose that requires a hose clamp on the end of the splice going to the coolant reservoir). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a96b290ee7.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ee0a4ec1f3.jpg Marc Haibeck has found that the throttle body has no problem with ice when the ambient temperature is at 20 degrees and the humidity is 90%. I have calculated that the coolant flow Dynamics assure ALL air is washed from the Top End of the engine at higher engine rpms (only need the air washed out once) even with TB Coolant Blocked . Note 3: Getting the Air Out of the Water Pump after Blocking TB Coolant. See LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified for the Simplified Discussion regarding The Air Locked Water Pump. After you have filled the Coolant System with Coolant using both "Ls" (each Injector Housing Coolant Manifold)........ 1. Disconnect the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" and tip it up. Fill that "L" with coolant and blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the passenger side water pump inlet and passenger side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump. 2. Refill the Drivers Side "L" with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold where you have disconnect the "L". When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...63832b524d.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c10c9b0c30.jpg Note 4: Blocking TB Coolant or Bypassing TB Coolant 1. You can Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing. You can Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing without removing Injector Housings. Recommend removing Two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to Block TB Coolant at Injector Housings. You can then keep or eliminate the Plenum hoses/tube on passenger side or leave it in place. No more hose clamps required on the TB Coolant Hoses to TB if you want to leave the stock look. You do have to Block TB Coolant near Coolant Reservoir if you Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing. 2. You can also Bypass TB Coolant with the Coolant circulating through the Injector Housing/Plenum. 1991 LT5 with TB Coolant Blocked at Injector housing, ALL TB Coolant Hoses and Tube eliminated https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8f786b1e05.jpg 1990 LT5 with TB Coolant Blocked at Injector housing, ALL TB Coolant Hoses and Tube In Place https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...658dabd6f5.jpg Last UPDATE of post 192 Dec, 2017 |
Alternator and AC Compressor Installation
Alternator and AC Compressor Installation
Last UPDATE of post 193 Sep, 2015 |
Camshaft Timing
Camshaft Timing
Last UPDATE of post 194 Sep, 2015 |
Installation of the DIS Module
Installation of the DIS Module
Last UPDATE of post 195 Sep, 2015 |
Installation of Secondary Vacuum System
Installation of Secondary Vacuum System
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b2ba712eff.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...06be0d2047.jpg Last UPDATE of post 196 Dec, 2017 |
Plenum Installation
Plenum Installation
Last UPDATE of post 197 Sep, 2015 |
Installation of Flywheel, Clutch and Bell Housing
Installation of Flywheel (Including Pilot Bearing), Clutch and Bell Housing
1. Installation of Flywheel and Clutch. Flywheel to Crankshaft 66 ft lbs (8 bolts). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b98f58abab.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9ddb9ac7a9.jpg Pressure Plate to Flywheel 30 ft lbs in 5 ft lb increments (6 bolts). Center Clutch Disk before tightening Pressure Plate. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...270b67df51.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f1b94f9f00.jpg 2. Pilot Bearing Extraction and Installation.
Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck
(Post 219010)
You should drive the pilot bearing in until it seats at the bottom of the bore. That will be about 14 mm deep.
Note that a bronze bushing often comes loose and spins in the crankshaft. Installation of the bushing with bushing retaining compound will not solve the problem. I recommend to use only the roller pilot bearing. It will never come loose. GM PN 14061685. The depth to the plug is 34.90 mm (top arrow). The depth to the raised bottom of the pilot hole is 31.75 mm (Second arrow from top). The depth to the raised portion of the pilot hole (the pilot bearing housing in the crankshaft) is 9.5 mm (third arrow from top). The height of the Roller Bearing (width of outer race) is 17.45 mm. So......I am assuming the new roller bearing pilot should be sunk in past the raised portion of the housing (third arrow from top) about 4.5 mm or .175 inches. In other words just a bit past the raised portion of the pilot bearing hole. This would put the other end of the pilot bearing almost exactly to the raised portion near the bottom of the pilot hole at 31.75 mm (second arrow from top). Using a Blind Hole Slide Hammer to easily pull the old Pilot Bushing. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...218cc42e3e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...149a4c7f16.jpg The height of the Roller Bearing is 11/16 in (17.45 mm) ... The face of the Bronze Pilot Bushing I removed A New Roller Pilot Bearing was Used as a Replacement......was even with the reduced diameter of the bore. for the Bronze Bushing. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b09cf91459.jpghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a9fa22ae7b.jpg Blind Hole Slide Hammer. http://www.bestrepairtool.com/images...w/hw0124-1.jpg 3. Installation of Bell Housing. Bolt Torque 30 ft lbs. Last UPDATE of post 198 Dec, 2017 |
Removal and Installation of Harmonic Balancer/Front Cover
Removal and Installation of Harmonic Balancer/Front Cover
The Harmonic Balancer was pulled and the Key Removed. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ef9cff0d9f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c9f03fdd15.jpg The Front Cover was removed and the Front Cover Oil Seal Replaced. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c11d6ea042.jpg The Primary Timing Chain Guide/Tensioner was replaced and the Primary Chain Tension adjusted. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7fa3372758.jpg Last UPDATE of post 199 Dec, 2017 |
Compression Testing
Compression Testing
A Compression Test was on each cylinder was completed to confirm the operational function of the Rebuilt Heads. The Compression Test was accomplished with ALL plugs removed by engaging the starter Prior to replacing the Plenum. Last UPDATE of post 200 Sep, 2015 |
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