BadBaran

Hey guys I'm getting lots of different opinions on my choice of a stall converter.
My setup is a 383 stroker with world products heads and comp cam XE-284-H with duration of 240° intake 246° exhaust and lift of .507 intake and .510 exhaust. It should make around 450 hp.
I will be running a 2004r stage 3 from bowtie overdrives. I have 355 gears in the rear and use the car for spirited weekend driving and occasional track runs (2 a year).

The problem is my motor guy recommends I run a 3000 stall converter
The guy from bowtie recommends a 2400 stall converter
And comp cams website says a 2800 stall converter

What a guy to do? Flip a coin

calwldlife

depends on idle speed, when you want power in the HP curve

high =s more into the HP at launch

bluedawg

I'd go with what comp says. Just my .02$

scottw

3K is definately too much unless you are doing a lot of strip racing, which you say your are not. If you want power w/ a good road ride, I'd go w/ the 2400. I have a zz4 w/ TH400 (stock) and have a 1800 in and I like the ride. JMO

diehrd

Honestly that cam may not be the best choice for your type of driving. But with it your going to find 2400 min , and 3000 max stall. Personally would have looked for a cam with as much low end torque as you could find even if it meant lower total hp .

So I would go 2600 only because it satisfies your driving with the cams profile pretty well.

ajrothm

With a 240/246 cam you are gonna need ATLEAST a "3000" stall... You really need something that's going to flash to atleast 4000 rpms, that will likely be a medium tight 10".

If you get a good converter built for it, it will drive almost like a stocker around town until you nail it.. If you buy an off the shelf "3000" stall, its likely gonna be loose and sloppy around town. Make sure you get a lock up converter so it will still lock in OD.

That car will be a total dog with anything under a 3000 rpm stall..

I'd look at Coan, FTI, PTC, Yank, Precision industries for converters.

hugie82

You left out compression and current stall on that 383 but it still should have good low end torque! IMHO 2400 stall is a cheap converter and your 383 should be layin a nice patch of rubber but if you're lagging in that off the line torque ( can't break the wheel loose from a dead stop) than a higher stall will be needed

v2racing

My 3500 rpm stall does not feel like one unless you nail it. It drives like a stocker if you are driving like you would a daily driver. It is an Art Carr. It also has the lock up in it.

I would add Art Carr to ajrothm's list.

BadBaran

Thanks for all the info. I was going to get the convertor from bowtie overdrives since that's where I'm getting the 2004r from. Does anyone know if their converters are good or should I go with one of the other places you guys recommended?
The motor is still being built and I don't have the trans yet so I don't really have anything to compare.
Thanks again

REELAV8R

When I spoke with PTC converters I was impressed that they were very helpful and offered to change the stall at no charge should it not be what I wanted.
Keep in mind that 2800 brake stall converter will stall at a higher rpm than 2800 if the assumed torque to the converter is higher than the manufacturer estimated. These stalls are not hard numbers. So if you get a 2800 and it does not lock up until 3100 then your engine is developing more torque than the manufacturer figured based on your cam specs. the reverse is also true. This is where sending it back to get the stall adjusted may come in handy, albeit a bit of a hassle. Also ask about the efficiency of the converter. How much it slips after reaching stall. You will also need a additional tranny fluid cooler.

johnt365

I want to compliment www.ptcrace.com also. These guys are easy to deal with and make a great product for a fair price. A while back they sold me a 2800 for my TH400. I was perfect. However, I recently converted my transmission to a 200-4R. Guess what... They have a policy for that. Send us your converter and $150. and we will send you one for your 200-4R.

Old school customer service there.

63mako

I would listen to Bowtie, 2400. Here is a dyno sheet for a 390 hp 9.25 to 1, 356 CI with your cam. It is making 325 ft lbs of torque @ 2500 RPM Your 383 will drop the powercurve about 400 RPM compared to that engine and your making more power. You will likely be over 350 Ft Lbs of torque at stall speed. That is a lot of fun. Comp would rate it for a 350. (subtract 400 from their 2800). Since you race 2 times a year and it is mostly for spirited weekend driving I think you will be real happy with it. I would buy the convertor they recommended with the trans from Bowtie.
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/390/XE284H-10.aspx
If racing and best ET is your priority bump it up to a 3000 but for your use I wouldn't.

gkull

I don't think that your motor guy did you a favor with the cam choice. But you need to listen to ajrothm & v2racing Efficient 9.5 inch TC's run great with stalls up to 4000 rpm on the street.

old school crappy TC's make driving suck as the stall goes up. I had a B&M super street fighter or sat night special and my car always drove at 3000 rpm unless you went faster. Switching to quality and it was no problem running 3500 and 3800 stall lockup TC's or even without lockup.

You really get what you pay for My most expensive multi clutch was more like $1100 more than 10 years ago. But i also never had to worry on drag race day with sticky slicks and big smokey burnouts

BadBaran

Why do you say that the cam choice is not in my favor?
I am now looking into going with a hydraulic roller cam instead of a flat tappet cam. More HP no wiping lobes and no zinc additive needed

gkull

Your posted cam....... would not run very well way to radical. Roller cams can run 10 degrees @ .050 higher than there flat cam counter part and still run nice.

IMO - small 383's kind of are limited to about 240@ .050 with roller cams intake especially with auto trannys and that is with near 11/1 C/R

BadBaran

That's what I'm after is a quick fun radical weekend car! I drive to close shows and trailer it to farther away shows and then have fun all weekend there! I not looking for a smooth riding car to just go cruising with on the weekend. I want a fast head turner. I have a minitruck to go cruising in.

The cam I had in my previous motor was 2 steps less radical then this one and was no where near what I wanted. It had a small rough idle but nothing really noticeable and was very tame on the street. So I decided I wanted to step up on my cam to get that rough idle and my motor guy said once I pick my cam he can get everything else together to make it work.

I'm also staying on pump gas and heard from a couple guys that 10.5 to 1 CR is about the max for pump gas

Thanks again for your input and help

diehrd

Your saying 450 hp is where your gonna be at , you can make that power easy and not have a rough idle. If your shooting for 550 plus .. worry about a high stall 3k and up.