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2005 C6 auto's stuck in Park, solution with pics.
01-10-2013, 10:09 AM
#1
5th Gear
Thread Starter
2005 C6 auto's stuck in Park, solution with pics.
I just wanted to add a few comments here about C6's with automatic's being stuck in Park. There are several statements on many threads about this. I have been struggling with this issue, and it all started with Active Handling issues about two years ago. I will not get into the Active Handling problem here.
Bypass the circuit
"IF" there is an issue like the Active Handling problem, then you can bypass the Park Lock Out, by going into accessory mode, shift into neutral, then starting the car and then shifting into gear. But this is suggesting that all circuits are functional and the car has decided to prevent you from driving it for safety reasons.
Brake circuit
There was a tread that suggests to have someone look at your brake lights to make sure they were working when you stepped on the brake. If the brake lights are not working then there might be some validity to this thread. However, "IF" the car started, then by default, the brake circuit is working (because you had to step on the brake before the starter engaged, think about it for a second). In that thread where the lights were not working at all, he found the plastic tab that the brake pedal switch presses against had been deformed/dented by too much pressure, most likely from a miss adjusted switch IMHO. That thread was resolved by double sticking a thin sheet metal plate over the deformed tab. Did the car actually start and not go into Park, I doubt it.
Is the Lock out solenoid actually bad?
It seems from what I can read on the forums, that the 2005 C6's, seems to have the most issues with getting locked into Park. Maybe it is because they are just older, but who knows, maybe Chevy actually changed the solenoid after 2005. There are two things I can tell you that I have learned. My 2005 C6 was stuck in Park in a very small single stall garage. Getting it out of the garage even with dollies was not much an option due the shape and angle of my driveway. So I attempted to remove my console using all the good instructions on this forum to get at my solenoid. I managed to get all the screws, bolts and electrical connectors off, but with the car in "Park", with the shifter all the way forward, you are not getting the console out unless you are willing to break something and more than likely cut/scratch the heck out of the dash. So you have to ask yourself, what is the cheapest part to replace to get at the solenoid? The answer in my opinion is the leather boot. So you can cut open a seam and re-stitch it later, or just cut a hole and replace with a new or after market version, or you can use thin stiff wire and poke a small single hole into the boot, to move the Lock Out dog so you can get it out of Park, "if" you know where it is. It is about 8 3/4" forward of the key hole for valet (see last picture). Once you hook the plastic dog, just pull back about a 1/4 inch and shift the car out of Park. Then you can fix the problem however you like. Before I tried this, I remembered someone mentioning low voltage....... Now my "Locked in Park" had been going for a while and I recently put a new battery in the car, and I was still having the "Locked in Park" issue before and after the new battery (remember the car is started and running, so even with a slightly low battery, once it was started the voltage is up). In a last ditch effort, I put on my good battery charger on the car and set it to start mode, got in the car, started it, and it came right out of Park. Obviously, my solenoid is weak or going bad (or there is a resistive circuit in the wiring). First thing I did was get the car out of the garage and into the driveway. Next, after reading what everyone here on the forums was paying for a new shifter (only way to get the solenoid) I opted to bypass the damn thing after all of the hassle I have had with it., I guess I could try to go to the local auto parts store and find one that works/fits, and go through the hassle of tearing out the shifter, disassembling it, modifying it and reinstall it, but I just went for simple bypass. I simply drilled a very small hole in the plastic dog, and wired it back to the bracket that holes the solenoid. It does not permanently do any damage and if at the time of sale I want to put it back to "factory", I simple remove the wire. I thought about using a piece of split plastic tubing or fuel line and slipping it over the shaft of the solenoid, but the wire was handy. I have given you a couple of pictures to show what I did and also you can use it as a guide to know where the dog is to release if you are "actually" stuck in Park and decide to go through the boot. BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THIS, PUT A STRONG CHARGER ON THE CAR TO SEE IF YOU CAN GET IT OUT OF PARK FIRST, it is a lot easier. Anyways, I hope it helps someone that is having this issue. In summary:
1) Try using the bypass via "accessory mode"
2) If the car starts (by pressing the brake pedal), the Brake circuit is working
3) Put on a strong battery charger while the car is running
4) You can't practically get the console off/out if the car is stuck in Park
5) If all else fails, go through the boot to release the dog, then you can get the console out to either replace or bypass the lock out.
6) "If" you by pass the lock out, you will be able to put the car in gear without your foot on the brake, so you should get it fix properly so no one gets hurt
7) After all of this, go to the mirror and slap yourself for buying a C6 with an automatic!!!!!! (even if it was a good deal).
A) previous thread on this issue: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...k-2005-c6.html
Finally, the shifter is made entirely out of plastic. I have seen comments here, that folks have paid as much as $700 for this POS. If I was dead set on getting the Lock Out to function properly, I would tear it out and find a good solenoid and modify the existing shifter. If some one has already done this, add the part number/info to this thread. Maybe someone at a dealer part counter can figure it out for us.
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto1.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto2.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto3.jpg
Bypass the circuit
"IF" there is an issue like the Active Handling problem, then you can bypass the Park Lock Out, by going into accessory mode, shift into neutral, then starting the car and then shifting into gear. But this is suggesting that all circuits are functional and the car has decided to prevent you from driving it for safety reasons.
Brake circuit
There was a tread that suggests to have someone look at your brake lights to make sure they were working when you stepped on the brake. If the brake lights are not working then there might be some validity to this thread. However, "IF" the car started, then by default, the brake circuit is working (because you had to step on the brake before the starter engaged, think about it for a second). In that thread where the lights were not working at all, he found the plastic tab that the brake pedal switch presses against had been deformed/dented by too much pressure, most likely from a miss adjusted switch IMHO. That thread was resolved by double sticking a thin sheet metal plate over the deformed tab. Did the car actually start and not go into Park, I doubt it.
Is the Lock out solenoid actually bad?
It seems from what I can read on the forums, that the 2005 C6's, seems to have the most issues with getting locked into Park. Maybe it is because they are just older, but who knows, maybe Chevy actually changed the solenoid after 2005. There are two things I can tell you that I have learned. My 2005 C6 was stuck in Park in a very small single stall garage. Getting it out of the garage even with dollies was not much an option due the shape and angle of my driveway. So I attempted to remove my console using all the good instructions on this forum to get at my solenoid. I managed to get all the screws, bolts and electrical connectors off, but with the car in "Park", with the shifter all the way forward, you are not getting the console out unless you are willing to break something and more than likely cut/scratch the heck out of the dash. So you have to ask yourself, what is the cheapest part to replace to get at the solenoid? The answer in my opinion is the leather boot. So you can cut open a seam and re-stitch it later, or just cut a hole and replace with a new or after market version, or you can use thin stiff wire and poke a small single hole into the boot, to move the Lock Out dog so you can get it out of Park, "if" you know where it is. It is about 8 3/4" forward of the key hole for valet (see last picture). Once you hook the plastic dog, just pull back about a 1/4 inch and shift the car out of Park. Then you can fix the problem however you like. Before I tried this, I remembered someone mentioning low voltage....... Now my "Locked in Park" had been going for a while and I recently put a new battery in the car, and I was still having the "Locked in Park" issue before and after the new battery (remember the car is started and running, so even with a slightly low battery, once it was started the voltage is up). In a last ditch effort, I put on my good battery charger on the car and set it to start mode, got in the car, started it, and it came right out of Park. Obviously, my solenoid is weak or going bad (or there is a resistive circuit in the wiring). First thing I did was get the car out of the garage and into the driveway. Next, after reading what everyone here on the forums was paying for a new shifter (only way to get the solenoid) I opted to bypass the damn thing after all of the hassle I have had with it., I guess I could try to go to the local auto parts store and find one that works/fits, and go through the hassle of tearing out the shifter, disassembling it, modifying it and reinstall it, but I just went for simple bypass. I simply drilled a very small hole in the plastic dog, and wired it back to the bracket that holes the solenoid. It does not permanently do any damage and if at the time of sale I want to put it back to "factory", I simple remove the wire. I thought about using a piece of split plastic tubing or fuel line and slipping it over the shaft of the solenoid, but the wire was handy. I have given you a couple of pictures to show what I did and also you can use it as a guide to know where the dog is to release if you are "actually" stuck in Park and decide to go through the boot. BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THIS, PUT A STRONG CHARGER ON THE CAR TO SEE IF YOU CAN GET IT OUT OF PARK FIRST, it is a lot easier. Anyways, I hope it helps someone that is having this issue. In summary:
1) Try using the bypass via "accessory mode"
2) If the car starts (by pressing the brake pedal), the Brake circuit is working
3) Put on a strong battery charger while the car is running
4) You can't practically get the console off/out if the car is stuck in Park
5) If all else fails, go through the boot to release the dog, then you can get the console out to either replace or bypass the lock out.
6) "If" you by pass the lock out, you will be able to put the car in gear without your foot on the brake, so you should get it fix properly so no one gets hurt
7) After all of this, go to the mirror and slap yourself for buying a C6 with an automatic!!!!!! (even if it was a good deal).
A) previous thread on this issue: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...k-2005-c6.html
Finally, the shifter is made entirely out of plastic. I have seen comments here, that folks have paid as much as $700 for this POS. If I was dead set on getting the Lock Out to function properly, I would tear it out and find a good solenoid and modify the existing shifter. If some one has already done this, add the part number/info to this thread. Maybe someone at a dealer part counter can figure it out for us.
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto1.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto2.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto3.jpg
The following users liked this post:
burleyw (03-19-2023)
01-10-2013, 11:28 AM
#3
Well this just happened to my brother's 2006 A6 and honestly all he did was hit the top of his shifter with his hand and it finally let him shift out of Park. Weird I know, but any thoughts on this?
01-10-2013, 12:49 PM
#5
5th Gear
Thread Starter
jlashley,
Hard to say, I had similar results previously until it finally stopped all together. Right before it stopped functioning, I could push forward on the shifter and it would release... over time I tried all the little tricks.... but it kept coming back at odd times. I believe mine was just hovering on the edge of having enough voltage/current to energize the coil enough to pull the rod...... and finally it can't anymore (with what the car can supply running). I should have measured voltage at the battery while I was having issues, but when I finally got it to work and could get the vet out of the garage (so I could open up both doors and to work on it), I did it ASAP. Everything in the shifter is plastic too, so beating on them with force will eventually break something, and they are pricey from what I have heard. Is it possible my alternator is not keeping the system to a high voltage, say 13.7 or more....... not sure, but it is charging enough to keep the running and the battery charged....
Hard to say, I had similar results previously until it finally stopped all together. Right before it stopped functioning, I could push forward on the shifter and it would release... over time I tried all the little tricks.... but it kept coming back at odd times. I believe mine was just hovering on the edge of having enough voltage/current to energize the coil enough to pull the rod...... and finally it can't anymore (with what the car can supply running). I should have measured voltage at the battery while I was having issues, but when I finally got it to work and could get the vet out of the garage (so I could open up both doors and to work on it), I did it ASAP. Everything in the shifter is plastic too, so beating on them with force will eventually break something, and they are pricey from what I have heard. Is it possible my alternator is not keeping the system to a high voltage, say 13.7 or more....... not sure, but it is charging enough to keep the running and the battery charged....
01-10-2013, 01:15 PM
#6
Race Director
jlashley,
Hard to say, I had similar results previously until it finally stopped all together. Right before it stopped functioning, I could push forward on the shifter and it would release... over time I tried all the little tricks.... but it kept coming back at odd times. I believe mine was just hovering on the edge of having enough voltage/current to energize the coil enough to pull the rod...... and finally it can't anymore (with what the car can supply running). I should have measured voltage at the battery while I was having issues, but when I finally got it to work and could get the vet out of the garage (so I could open up both doors and to work on it), I did it ASAP. Everything in the shifter is plastic too, so beating on them with force will eventually break something, and they are pricey from what I have heard. Is it possible my alternator is not keeping the system to a high voltage, say 13.7 or more....... not sure, but it is charging enough to keep the running and the battery charged....
Hard to say, I had similar results previously until it finally stopped all together. Right before it stopped functioning, I could push forward on the shifter and it would release... over time I tried all the little tricks.... but it kept coming back at odd times. I believe mine was just hovering on the edge of having enough voltage/current to energize the coil enough to pull the rod...... and finally it can't anymore (with what the car can supply running). I should have measured voltage at the battery while I was having issues, but when I finally got it to work and could get the vet out of the garage (so I could open up both doors and to work on it), I did it ASAP. Everything in the shifter is plastic too, so beating on them with force will eventually break something, and they are pricey from what I have heard. Is it possible my alternator is not keeping the system to a high voltage, say 13.7 or more....... not sure, but it is charging enough to keep the running and the battery charged....
as far as turning back to stock i dont think anyone would ever try to shift without starting or braking unless your older and remember when you could without all the bs
02-02-2013, 12:56 PM
#8
i was out when it finally went all the way, all i had was a leatherman, so i took it apart, got to the part of the radio bezel and couldnt get it off with out coming out of park so i just pulled the shifter back a and it pulled back into gear far enough to get off then i took the cable off drove home looked at the operation bent hook lock back and fourth it broke and im happyas far as turning back to stock i dont think anyone would ever try to shift without starting or braking unless your older and remember when you could without all the bs
as far as turning back to stock i dont think anyone would ever try to shift without starting or braking unless your older and remember when you could without all the bsI tried your method today but the hook wouldn't break so a hacksaw blade did it in. I didn't have to disconnect any electrical connectors, but the airbag light in the tombstone. There was enough room once I pulled up the shifter boot and also popped up the Shift lettering/numbers. It took me about 30 min. and now I will never worry about this again.
Thanks for your post Zap. The pics came in handy.
Jeff
04-06-2013, 07:22 AM
#9
6th Gear
Member Since: Apr 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
I finally had enough of the shifter sticking in park so yesterday I took out the center console to get at the shift lock. What a PITA to get out , my biggest problem was getting all the wires disconnected from the console -heated seat control ,traction control ,hazard button and others, not a lot of room to get fingers on the wires off. Once all was apart where I could see the lock I tried a few things to keep it to stay unlocked but finally took a pair of wire cutters and cut the end of the lock off so there is nothing to lock. Much easier to put back together. Now I am looking forward to a nice summer of just driving with NO MORE PROBLEMS.
I want to thank everyone for there help and I wish all a great summer.
I want to thank everyone for there help and I wish all a great summer.
04-06-2013, 11:37 AM
#10
Advanced
I finally had enough of the shifter sticking in park so yesterday I took out the center console to get at the shift lock. What a PITA to get out , my biggest problem was getting all the wires disconnected from the console -heated seat control ,traction control ,hazard button and others, not a lot of room to get fingers on the wires off. Once all was apart where I could see the lock I tried a few things to keep it to stay unlocked but finally took a pair of wire cutters and cut the end of the lock off so there is nothing to lock. Much easier to put back together. Now I am looking forward to a nice summer of just driving with NO MORE PROBLEMS.
I want to thank everyone for there help and I wish all a great summer.
I want to thank everyone for there help and I wish all a great summer.
04-18-2013, 02:57 PM
#11
04-18-2013, 03:06 PM
#12
Drifting
subscribing
05-26-2013, 02:22 AM
#13
Advanced
I just wanted to add a few comments here about C6's with automatic's being stuck in Park. There are several statements on many threads about this. I have been struggling with this issue, and it all started with Active Handling issues about two years ago. I will not get into the Active Handling problem here.
Bypass the circuit
"IF" there is an issue like the Active Handling problem, then you can bypass the Park Lock Out, by going into accessory mode, shift into neutral, then starting the car and then shifting into gear. But this is suggesting that all circuits are functional and the car has decided to prevent you from driving it for safety reasons.
Brake circuit
There was a tread that suggests to have someone look at your brake lights to make sure they were working when you stepped on the brake. If the brake lights are not working then there might be some validity to this thread. However, "IF" the car started, then by default, the brake circuit is working (because you had to step on the brake before the starter engaged, think about it for a second). In that thread where the lights were not working at all, he found the plastic tab that the brake pedal switch presses against had been deformed/dented by too much pressure, most likely from a miss adjusted switch IMHO. That thread was resolved by double sticking a thin sheet metal plate over the deformed tab. Did the car actually start and not go into Park, I doubt it.
Is the Lock out solenoid actually bad?
It seems from what I can read on the forums, that the 2005 C6's, seems to have the most issues with getting locked into Park. Maybe it is because they are just older, but who knows, maybe Chevy actually changed the solenoid after 2005. There are two things I can tell you that I have learned. My 2005 C6 was stuck in Park in a very small single stall garage. Getting it out of the garage even with dollies was not much an option due the shape and angle of my driveway. So I attempted to remove my console using all the good instructions on this forum to get at my solenoid. I managed to get all the screws, bolts and electrical connectors off, but with the car in "Park", with the shifter all the way forward, you are not getting the console out unless you are willing to break something and more than likely cut/scratch the heck out of the dash. So you have to ask yourself, what is the cheapest part to replace to get at the solenoid? The answer in my opinion is the leather boot. So you can cut open a seam and re-stitch it later, or just cut a hole and replace with a new or after market version, or you can use thin stiff wire and poke a small single hole into the boot, to move the Lock Out dog so you can get it out of Park, "if" you know where it is. It is about 8 3/4" forward of the key hole for valet (see last picture). Once you hook the plastic dog, just pull back about a 1/4 inch and shift the car out of Park. Then you can fix the problem however you like. Before I tried this, I remembered someone mentioning low voltage....... Now my "Locked in Park" had been going for a while and I recently put a new battery in the car, and I was still having the "Locked in Park" issue before and after the new battery (remember the car is started and running, so even with a slightly low battery, once it was started the voltage is up). In a last ditch effort, I put on my good battery charger on the car and set it to start mode, got in the car, started it, and it came right out of Park. Obviously, my solenoid is weak or going bad (or there is a resistive circuit in the wiring). First thing I did was get the car out of the garage and into the driveway. Next, after reading what everyone here on the forums was paying for a new shifter (only way to get the solenoid) I opted to bypass the damn thing after all of the hassle I have had with it., I guess I could try to go to the local auto parts store and find one that works/fits, and go through the hassle of tearing out the shifter, disassembling it, modifying it and reinstall it, but I just went for simple bypass. I simply drilled a very small hole in the plastic dog, and wired it back to the bracket that holes the solenoid. It does not permanently do any damage and if at the time of sale I want to put it back to "factory", I simple remove the wire. I thought about using a piece of split plastic tubing or fuel line and slipping it over the shaft of the solenoid, but the wire was handy. I have given you a couple of pictures to show what I did and also you can use it as a guide to know where the dog is to release if you are "actually" stuck in Park and decide to go through the boot. BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THIS, PUT A STRONG CHARGER ON THE CAR TO SEE IF YOU CAN GET IT OUT OF PARK FIRST, it is a lot easier. Anyways, I hope it helps someone that is having this issue. In summary:
1) Try using the bypass via "accessory mode"
2) If the car starts (by pressing the brake pedal), the Brake circuit is working
3) Put on a strong battery charger while the car is running
4) You can't practically get the console off/out if the car is stuck in Park
5) If all else fails, go through the boot to release the dog, then you can get the console out to either replace or bypass the lock out.
6) "If" you by pass the lock out, you will be able to put the car in gear without your foot on the brake, so you should get it fix properly so no one gets hurt
7) After all of this, go to the mirror and slap yourself for buying a C6 with an automatic!!!!!! (even if it was a good deal).
A) previous thread on this issue: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...k-2005-c6.html
Finally, the shifter is made entirely out of plastic. I have seen comments here, that folks have paid as much as $700 for this POS. If I was dead set on getting the Lock Out to function properly, I would tear it out and find a good solenoid and modify the existing shifter. If some one has already done this, add the part number/info to this thread. Maybe someone at a dealer part counter can figure it out for us.
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto1.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto2.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto3.jpg
Bypass the circuit
"IF" there is an issue like the Active Handling problem, then you can bypass the Park Lock Out, by going into accessory mode, shift into neutral, then starting the car and then shifting into gear. But this is suggesting that all circuits are functional and the car has decided to prevent you from driving it for safety reasons.
Brake circuit
There was a tread that suggests to have someone look at your brake lights to make sure they were working when you stepped on the brake. If the brake lights are not working then there might be some validity to this thread. However, "IF" the car started, then by default, the brake circuit is working (because you had to step on the brake before the starter engaged, think about it for a second). In that thread where the lights were not working at all, he found the plastic tab that the brake pedal switch presses against had been deformed/dented by too much pressure, most likely from a miss adjusted switch IMHO. That thread was resolved by double sticking a thin sheet metal plate over the deformed tab. Did the car actually start and not go into Park, I doubt it.
Is the Lock out solenoid actually bad?
It seems from what I can read on the forums, that the 2005 C6's, seems to have the most issues with getting locked into Park. Maybe it is because they are just older, but who knows, maybe Chevy actually changed the solenoid after 2005. There are two things I can tell you that I have learned. My 2005 C6 was stuck in Park in a very small single stall garage. Getting it out of the garage even with dollies was not much an option due the shape and angle of my driveway. So I attempted to remove my console using all the good instructions on this forum to get at my solenoid. I managed to get all the screws, bolts and electrical connectors off, but with the car in "Park", with the shifter all the way forward, you are not getting the console out unless you are willing to break something and more than likely cut/scratch the heck out of the dash. So you have to ask yourself, what is the cheapest part to replace to get at the solenoid? The answer in my opinion is the leather boot. So you can cut open a seam and re-stitch it later, or just cut a hole and replace with a new or after market version, or you can use thin stiff wire and poke a small single hole into the boot, to move the Lock Out dog so you can get it out of Park, "if" you know where it is. It is about 8 3/4" forward of the key hole for valet (see last picture). Once you hook the plastic dog, just pull back about a 1/4 inch and shift the car out of Park. Then you can fix the problem however you like. Before I tried this, I remembered someone mentioning low voltage....... Now my "Locked in Park" had been going for a while and I recently put a new battery in the car, and I was still having the "Locked in Park" issue before and after the new battery (remember the car is started and running, so even with a slightly low battery, once it was started the voltage is up). In a last ditch effort, I put on my good battery charger on the car and set it to start mode, got in the car, started it, and it came right out of Park. Obviously, my solenoid is weak or going bad (or there is a resistive circuit in the wiring). First thing I did was get the car out of the garage and into the driveway. Next, after reading what everyone here on the forums was paying for a new shifter (only way to get the solenoid) I opted to bypass the damn thing after all of the hassle I have had with it., I guess I could try to go to the local auto parts store and find one that works/fits, and go through the hassle of tearing out the shifter, disassembling it, modifying it and reinstall it, but I just went for simple bypass. I simply drilled a very small hole in the plastic dog, and wired it back to the bracket that holes the solenoid. It does not permanently do any damage and if at the time of sale I want to put it back to "factory", I simple remove the wire. I thought about using a piece of split plastic tubing or fuel line and slipping it over the shaft of the solenoid, but the wire was handy. I have given you a couple of pictures to show what I did and also you can use it as a guide to know where the dog is to release if you are "actually" stuck in Park and decide to go through the boot. BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THIS, PUT A STRONG CHARGER ON THE CAR TO SEE IF YOU CAN GET IT OUT OF PARK FIRST, it is a lot easier. Anyways, I hope it helps someone that is having this issue. In summary:
1) Try using the bypass via "accessory mode"
2) If the car starts (by pressing the brake pedal), the Brake circuit is working
3) Put on a strong battery charger while the car is running
4) You can't practically get the console off/out if the car is stuck in Park
5) If all else fails, go through the boot to release the dog, then you can get the console out to either replace or bypass the lock out.
6) "If" you by pass the lock out, you will be able to put the car in gear without your foot on the brake, so you should get it fix properly so no one gets hurt
7) After all of this, go to the mirror and slap yourself for buying a C6 with an automatic!!!!!! (even if it was a good deal).
A) previous thread on this issue: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...k-2005-c6.html
Finally, the shifter is made entirely out of plastic. I have seen comments here, that folks have paid as much as $700 for this POS. If I was dead set on getting the Lock Out to function properly, I would tear it out and find a good solenoid and modify the existing shifter. If some one has already done this, add the part number/info to this thread. Maybe someone at a dealer part counter can figure it out for us.
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto1.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto2.jpg
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...61/c6auto3.jpg
06-30-2013, 09:01 AM
#14
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 168
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Received 0 Likes
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Can't shift in to park
Do you think pulling the dog the dog back would fix the car not being able in to go in to park!
Or an ideas how to fix shifter not going in to park?
Or an ideas how to fix shifter not going in to park?
06-30-2013, 09:52 AM
#15
Race Director
I would lift the shifter out and pop the cable from it and try shifting with the cable, that would determine if its the shifter and not an internal trans problem. if that works pull or cut the dog, but it could be a spring or somthing not lifting over the gates
09-16-2013, 09:47 PM
#16
Racer
Going to try tomorrow....my fist is getting sore. Now , if the lock is disabled, could you replace the **** with an aftermarket one without the innerpush button? Opens a lot of possibilities.
10-09-2013, 08:50 PM
#17
Instructor
My solenoid wouldn't move a couple of times and I decided to Solve the Problem Before It Quit.
I left everything plugged in and just pulled the rear of the shifter boot loose. I took a small wire tie and made a loop and lassoed the locking lever (solenoid operated). Once I got the small wire tie around the lock I fed a much longer bigger wire tie through the small one and pulled the small one tight. I then took the larger one and fed it through an existing hole at the rear of the shifter opening and pulled it Tight. Problem Solved. I think the Lock is a good idea but problematic!
I left everything plugged in and just pulled the rear of the shifter boot loose. I took a small wire tie and made a loop and lassoed the locking lever (solenoid operated). Once I got the small wire tie around the lock I fed a much longer bigger wire tie through the small one and pulled the small one tight. I then took the larger one and fed it through an existing hole at the rear of the shifter opening and pulled it Tight. Problem Solved. I think the Lock is a good idea but problematic!
04-12-2014, 08:17 AM
#18
Racer
occurences decreasing...
I have the same "wont shift out of park" problem with my 2008 C6, whereas I never once had the problem with my 2005 C6. Because I didn't get an extended warranty, ive spent hours reading these forums, and there has been no easy solution. However, I've noticed that now that I'm driving the car daily, the percentage of problem occurences have significantly decreased. Previously, I was only home driving the car on weekends. Also, the car has never totally failed...it always gives in and complies within 30 seconds.
04-21-2014, 03:53 PM
#19
Instructor
2005 c6 stuck in park
I have the same "wont shift out of park" problem with my 2008 C6, whereas I never once had the problem with my 2005 C6. Because I didn't get an extended warranty, ive spent hours reading these forums, and there has been no easy solution. However, I've noticed that now that I'm driving the car daily, the percentage of problem occurences have significantly decreased. Previously, I was only home driving the car on weekends. Also, the car has never totally failed...it always gives in and complies within 30 seconds.
Hope can still post here, this a great thread. I have read and tried to digest all the info here and elsewhere and found that in my case I have two problems, probably both with the shifter assy. My C6, 05 has just turned 99K miles.
After a stick in park event, when I can clear it by the acc by pass method
my car won't recognze that it is in park and won't shut down the acc. mode even though it will restart in this mode. I think that the microswitch on the shifter is at fault in this as well as or instead of the solinoid. I have there fore found a new oem shifter on line for $200 including boot but not ****. I spent a very uncomfortable albiet procuctive hour removing the console and unbolting the shifter.
Question How does the shift cable disconnect from the shifter??
Is it like a ball on a trunk lift cylinder? just pry it off?
Don't want to break cable at this point and is not covered in the excellent utube video on console removal. Thanks in advance for any help and advice you can offer.
04-22-2014, 10:44 AM
#20
Instructor
You say to "pop" the cable off the shifter, I have mine ready to do that but am afraid to pry on the ball connector for fear of breaking it. Is there a clip or fastener that I am not seeing?
Thanks